HALEKAI Sailing Around the World

Nancy and Burger invite you to read about their adventures afloat and ashore.

19 February 2017 | Hog Cay, Jumentos
16 February 2017 | Duncan Town, Ragged Island
15 February 2017
14 February 2017 | Hog Cay, Jumentos
10 February 2017 | Hog Cay, the Jumentos
06 February 2017 | Duncan Town, Ragged Island
05 February 2017 | Hog Cay, Ragged Islands
05 February 2017 | Duncan Town, Ragged Island
04 February 2017 | Hog Cay, the Jumentos
03 February 2017 | Racoon Cay, Jumentos
01 February 2017 | Racoon Cay, the Jumentos
31 January 2017 | Buena Vista Cay, the Jumentos
30 January 2017 | Buena Vista Cay, the Jumentos
29 January 2017 | Flamingo Cay, Jumentos
28 January 2017 | Flamingo Cay, Jumentos
25 January 2017 | Salt Pond, Long Island
22 January 2017 | Red Shanks Anchorage, Great Exuma
19 January 2017 | Georgetown, Great Exuma
15 January 2017 | Chat n Chill, Stocking Island, Exuma
13 January 2017 | Stocking Island, Exuma

Hiking with Hippies

14 July 2012 | Sifnos, Cyclades
sunny and too hot, 90's
Another day, another island ... The islands of the Cyclades are barren and mountainous, and have monasteries, windmills, towns ("horas") with labryinthine alleyways, the stones outlined in white; whitewashed cubicle houses with blue shutters, white chapels with blue domes, and lavishly blooming magenta bougainvillea. Cats are everywhere, especially at tavernas, posing prettily in hopes of a hand-out ... All these similarities, and yet, each island is unique.

White chapels atop cliffs on either side of the entrance led to the pretty little bay of Faros, on the southeast coast of Sifnos. As soon as the anchor was down we donned masks and took a swim in the clear water, both to cool off and to check the anchor. No longer is it hard to take the first plunge, as air and water temps are rising.

We could see one way that Sifnos is different soon after sunset: a lighted pathway climbed from the village along the side of the cliff, out to the church that we passed on our way in. We could see several people hiking up and down the trail. Later we learned that there's an extensive network of hiking trails around the island, including a steep climb to the monastery on top of the mountain, over 650 high. There may be trails on other islands, but they aren't being promoted as on Sifnos. No package tourism or large beach resorts here (due no doubt to a lack of large beaches!); it's a very pleasant, unspoiled place.

Next morning we caught the bus to Apollonia, the small capital of the island, with its ceramics shops (for which Sifnos is famous), its cafes and museum. We discovered the most wonderful shop selling fancy marzipan and nut concoctions, and couldn't resist buying a sample of several, which sustained us on our hike to Kastro (castle), an hour away. It was a hot, windless day and when we got there, we ordered iced fruit tea at the first cafe we came to, a fancy New Age place with annoying music. We didn't take note of the price when ordering: 4 EUR ($5) per glass, no free refills!

Thus refreshed, we explored the winding alleys of the hora, encircled by walls of an ancient castle. While waiting for the bus to take us back to Faros, we struck up a conversation with two Americans. The woman, late 50's, was a bona fide hippie from the 70's, still wearing tie-dyed clothes, long hair and jangle jewelry, who had spent much of her adult life in India and Greece. Now she's an ESL teacher in Washington State. Her partner was a primary school principal there, widely traveled and interesting. Both were very fit and up to hiking in the heat. We enjoyed dinner with them at a taverna in Faros that evening. They told us about a big festival taking place at the monastery the following week, but alas, we needed to move on. A strong Meltemi was forecast and we wanted to spend the time at the next island on our itinerary, Paros.

CLICK HERE FOR PHOTOS OF SIFNOS
Vessel Name: Halekai
Vessel Make/Model: Alden 50 Center Cockpit
Hailing Port: Berlin
Crew: Nancy and Burger Zapf
About:
We've been sailing around the world in stages aboard Halekai, our Alden 50 CC, since leaving Annapolis, Maryland in 2004. After several seasons in the South Pacific and Southeast Asia, Halekai was shipped from Thailand to Turkey to avoid the pirates in June 2011. [...]
Extra:
We left Germany aboard our first boat, Phantasus, a LeComte NorthEast 38, and crossed the Atlantic in 1975. In 1981/82 we sailed her from the US East Coast to the South Pacific. We've sailed extensiviely aboard Halekai on the US East Coast, in the Bahamas and the eastern and western Caribbean. [...]
Home Page: http://www.sailblogs.com/member/halekai
Social:
Halekai's Photos - Main
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After visiting the famous pilgramage for sailors, the Monastery of the Archangel Michael in Panormitis, we sailed around to the main town of Symi.
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Phuket
1 Photo | 6 Sub-Albums
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from Kupang to Komodo, Bali to Borneo
1 Photo | 10 Sub-Albums
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1 Photo | 5 Sub-Albums
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Our three-day stopover in Hong Kong to celebrate our 41st anniversary
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Thanksgiving in Wilmington, NC with our daughters and their families
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