Some Greek islands are a stone's throw off the western coast of Turkey, and we didn't want to miss Symi, a popular stop right on our way to Datca. We weren't ready to clear into Greece yet, not having cleared out of Turkey, but we'd heard that Greek Customs turn a blind eye to transient boaters from Turkey, as long as you keep a low profile. So we sailed to the far end of the island from the town where the Customs office was located. We anchored in the bay of Panormitis, famous for the Monastery of St. Michael the Archangel. A helpful cruiser rowed over to remind us to exchange our Turkish courtesy flag for the Greek one. So much for keeping a low profile!

We went ashore to tour the monastery, and consulted the bus schedule: The only bus to town left at 7:30 am. Next morning we dinghied ashore bright and early, just in time to see the bus depart without us. It left ten minutes early! So we decided to sail around to Symi town instead. Surely Customs wouldn't notice us among all the other boats there?

Within minutes of med-mooring at the quay, an official turned up asking to see our papers, and directed us to the Customs office. Oh well. Our 90-day Greek visa, transit log and Schengen clocks started ticking sooner than planned. No notice was taken of the missing Turkish clearance stamp. Would Datca Customs notice our Greek entrance stamp when we cleared out of Turkey?



Symi is a bustling little town, special for its cheerful multi-hued neoclassical houses that climb the surrounding hillsides. Sponge diving used to be the main occupation, but decreasing demand and then a virus in 1986 all but wiped out the industry. Lots of Symian "spongers" emigrated to America and Australia. Years ago I remember seeing a "little Greece" community of spongers in Florida. They may well have been Symians.

Several giant cruise ships and ferries came into the crowded harbor, with sailboats weaving around them on their way to and from the town quay. Noisy motorcycles zipped around the tourists in the narrow streets and alleyways. Tavernas and cafes were busy and the supermarket was well-stocked. The Greek financial crisis and looming election didn't seem to be affecting business.

SYMI PHOTOS CLICK HERE