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HALEKAI Sailing Around the World
Nancy and Burger invite you to read about their cruising adventures afloat.
Hiking with Hippies
sunny and too hot, 90's
07/14/2012, Sifnos, Cyclades

Another day, another island ... The islands of the Cyclades are barren and mountainous, and have monasteries, windmills, towns ("horas") with labryinthine alleyways, the stones outlined in white; whitewashed cubicle houses with blue shutters, white chapels with blue domes, and lavishly blooming magenta bougainvillea. Cats are everywhere, especially at tavernas, posing prettily in hopes of a hand-out ... All these similarities, and yet, each island is unique.

White chapels atop cliffs on either side of the entrance led to the pretty little bay of Faros, on the southeast coast of Sifnos. As soon as the anchor was down we donned masks and took a swim in the clear water, both to cool off and to check the anchor. No longer is it hard to take the first plunge, as air and water temps are rising.

We could see one way that Sifnos is different soon after sunset: a lighted pathway climbed from the village along the side of the cliff, out to the church that we passed on our way in. We could see several people hiking up and down the trail. Later we learned that there's an extensive network of hiking trails around the island, including a steep climb to the monastery on top of the mountain, over 650 high. There may be trails on other islands, but they aren't being promoted as on Sifnos. No package tourism or large beach resorts here (due no doubt to a lack of large beaches!); it's a very pleasant, unspoiled place.

Next morning we caught the bus to Apollonia, the small capital of the island, with its ceramics shops (for which Sifnos is famous), its cafes and museum. We discovered the most wonderful shop selling fancy marzipan and nut concoctions, and couldn't resist buying a sample of several, which sustained us on our hike to Kastro (castle), an hour away. It was a hot, windless day and when we got there, we ordered iced fruit tea at the first cafe we came to, a fancy New Age place with annoying music. We didn't take note of the price when ordering: 4 EUR ($5) per glass, no free refills!

Thus refreshed, we explored the winding alleys of the hora, encircled by walls of an ancient castle. While waiting for the bus to take us back to Faros, we struck up a conversation with two Americans. The woman, late 50's, was a bona fide hippie from the 70's, still wearing tie-dyed clothes, long hair and jangle jewelry, who had spent much of her adult life in India and Greece. Now she's an ESL teacher in Washington State. Her partner was a primary school principal there, widely traveled and interesting. Both were very fit and up to hiking in the heat. We enjoyed dinner with them at a taverna in Faros that evening. They told us about a big festival taking place at the monastery the following week, but alas, we needed to move on. A strong Meltemi was forecast and we wanted to spend the time at the next island on our itinerary, Paros.

CLICK HERE FOR PHOTOS OF SIFNOS

2012 Greece
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Syros in the Cyclades
sunny and hot, no wind
07/12/2012, Aegean Sea, Greece

Sailing due east in light NW wind from Rhinia to Syros was a piece of cake. We anchored off the beach in the protected bay of Finikas, a small resort town of no special character, but with a small marina, several tavernas, a good supermarket and a great bakery. Chocolate croissants, homemade marzipan, and crusty multi-grain bread more than met Burger's high standards!

Next morning we caught the hourly bus to Ermoupolis, the largest city and capital of the Cyclades with over 20,000 people. The large bus was surprisingly luxurious, the type usually used for long distance travel, with even a restroom, for the half hour ride to town. We got off at well-stocked Maistrali Marine near the boatyard. Some days everything goes right: we found everything on our shopping list. Then we walked through town and had our favorite pita gyros for lunch, Greek's answer to fast food (similar to Turkey's doenners). We didn't know the bus schedule for the return trip, and by pure coincidence we arrived on the bus stop just as it was about to leave.

We've been on the move so much since leaving Marmaris six weeks ago, that it's nice to slow down and spend a couple of quiet days at anchor, giving us time to catch up on our blog. Burger proofreads and arranges the photos in albums. We were going to move on tomorrow but I just realized that tomorrow is Friday the 13th! Not that we're superstitious or anything, but we'll probably hang around here another day ... Time for a swim, then sundowners. Jamas!

2012 Greece
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Myconos to Rhinia
sunny and hot
07/09/2012, Cyclades, Greece

When we returned from Delos to Mykonos, three giant cruise ships were in port, and the town was teeming with tourists. We jumped on our quad and got out of Dodge!

Next morning we motored around to South Bay of the tiny, nearly uninhabited island of Rhinia, right next to Delos, where we saw the cruise ships disgorging the masses at the ruins. We sure timed our Delos day right! We spent a quiet day at anchor, swimming, sorting photos and catching up on this blog. Now if I can only keep it up to date from now on!

2012 Greece
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Ancient Delos
sunny and hot
07/08/2012, Delos, Cyclades

We took a ferry for the short ride across to the small island of Delos, a sacred ancient site dating from 3000 BC, with remains of temples, sanctuaries, shrines, amphitheaters, and the famous Terrace of the Lions. Delos was the mythological birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Later on it became a thriving trading port of the Romans, with ornate tile floors of wealthy mansions still visible. It was completely destroyed during war in 88 BC.

DELOS PHOTOS

2012 Greece
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The Windy Cyclades: First Stop, Mykonos
sunny and warm, what else?
07/07/2012, Aegean Sea, Greece

We left early for the 65 mile stretch from Patmos, the northernmost of the Dodecanese, to Mykonos, the first island of the Cyclades to the east. The Cyclades are a circular group of many islands that we'll be sailing in a big backwards "Z," east, west, east, for an optimal angle to the prevailing northwest wind.

Mykonos has a reputation with the "in crowd," many of them gay, as the party island, with its many beach resorts, fancy shops, bars, restaurants, and nightlife. We anchored in Ornos, a protected bay off a beach resort that was booming with music in the late afternoon. Luckily it died down by nightfall, when party-goers made their way across the isthmus to the Hora, or main town. Several large private motoryachts were anchored in deeper water behind us, and we were awakened at 4 am by noisy guests being ferried back to their yachts. High life in all corners!



We survived our adventure with a "quad", aka ATV, which we rented to go to town and tour the island. Cars and quads are rented with nearly empty fuel tanks when you get them, a profitable secondary income for the rental agency, since it's hard to calculate how much fuel you'll use. Extra fuel is siphoned out upon return. So the first order of business was to find a gas station. But the agent had siphoned so much gas out of the tank that we ran out before getting to the nearest one! Luckily it wasn't far ... I don't like motorcycles, Burger doesn't like quads. ("It feels like it's castrated," he kept complaining, as we crawled up the hills.) So we'll stick to cars in future. Or buses. Or feet.



We wandered around the quaint alleyways with its trendy boutiques and shops. In front of one of them we found the famous pink pelican, mascot of Myconos who we later saw meeting the ferry guests.

MYKONOS PHOTOS

2012 Greece
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St. John the Divine Slept Here
Meltemi!
07/03/2012, Patmos, Dodecanese

The weather report sounded benign for our northwest course from Leros to Patmos, and we left Partheni Bay in light wind. Then no wind, with engine. Then building wind from the north, 25 knots, gusting to 35. Burger reefed the mainsail and staysail way down to reduce heeling, and still we bounced along at 7.5 knots. Thank goodness this is as far north as we're going!

We anchored in the main harbor of Skala, and went ashore late afternoon to wander the town, have dinner and do some grocery shopping. Greek shops typically close for a long midday siesta and then reopen from 4 or 5 pm till 8 or 9. Greeks typically dine late, 9 or 10 pm, but the restaurants cater to tourists like us who eat earlier.

We were awakened at 6 am next morning by a man in a dinghy who directed us to a mooring ball, to make room for the fuel barge that was on its way into the harbor. The fuel barge turned out to be a fairly large fuel tanker, which towered over the anchorage! The crew on sailboats med-moored to the town quay scurried about their decks, holding puny little fenders should the tanker come too close. Once anchored and secured to the quay with aft lines straining in the side wind, a not very large fuel hose was brought out to transfer fuel to the city tank farm, a process which took all day. We were happy to be on the mooring out of harm's way.

After breakfast we dinghied ashore and hiked up the ancient cobblestone path to the Cave of the Apocalypse and the huge grey Monastery of St. John the Divine, who supposedly wrote the Book of Revelations there. The Monastery, which evolved over the centuries into a massive castle built for defense, is surrounded by a labryinth of whitewashed cube-shaped houses called the "hora," originally the main town of the island. Typical of many Greek islands, the maze was built to confuse attacking pirates and other enemies. Today the winding narrow alleyways are filled with shops and cafes and blooming bouganvillae, to the delight of visiting tourists. It's easy to take good photos in such a beautiful place.

PATMOS SLIDESHOW

Wanting to get away from the town bustle we moved next door to Meloi Bay, a protected cove with good swimming. While there we met Californians Madeline and Ken of the tugboat cruiser Mamma Mia, and had a fun visit with them aboard Halekai. While Burger and Ken discussed boat electronics, Madeline and I talked and talked about our children and grandchildren and our pets and our travel, etc. etc. etc. We were so hungry for talk that we forgot to have dinner!

2012 Greece
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Ioannina and Corinth
sunny and warm, low 80's
06/29/2012, Mainland Greece

On our return trip to Athens we drove west through mountain tunnels and had lunch in the lakeside town of Ioannina. There we visited the monastery where the brutal nineteenth Ottoman ruler, Ali Pasha, was killed. He was featured in the Alexander Dumas' novel, The Count of Montecristo.

Then we made our way south and crossed the Gulf of Corinth on the Rio-Antirrio, the longest multi-span cable-stayed suspension bridge in the world. We were now on the northern shore of the large peninsula of the Peloponnese. We stayed overnight at the small Hotel Lido resort in Melissi and swam off the pebbly beach.

On our way to the Athens airport next morning, we exited the highway and visited the Corinth Canal, a shortcut from the Aegean to the Ionian Sea. Four miles long and 70 feet wide, it is no longer viable for the larger freighters of today, but is still in use for smaller tourist ships and yachts. It was dug in the 1890's, effectively creating an island of the peninsula. We stood on the pedestrian bridge and looked at yachts passing under us, some 300 feet below! Our sailing itinerary takes us further south so we won't be transiting it with Halekai.

It was great to return to Halekai and find her bottom freshly painted, ready to launch. What a luxury! We spent another couple of days enjoying Craig and Katherine's company, catching up on laundry at their cottage yet again. Two weeks had flown by since we first arrived in Leros, and it was hard to say good-bye.

2012 Greece
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Ancient Monasteries Atop Pinnacles
sunny and warm, of course
06/28/2012, Meteora Valley, Greece

Having our day's exercise behind us, we drove on to the beautiful valley of Meteora, a few hours' further north. We stayed at the Doupiani House in the village of Kastriki, away from the noise of buses and motorcycles, within view of the strange smooth rock pinnacles the area is known for. There were very few other guests and the village restaurants were nearly empty. Food and service were great!

METEORA VALLEY PHOTOS

Next morning we hiked up to four centuries-old monasteries perched on top of the pinnacles. Once there were two dozen monasteries, today there are only six major ones remaining. A couple of them are still in use. Monks climbed rope ladders or were hoisted up in nets, allowing them to survive in isolation while warfare raged below. The interiors of the chapels were covered with frescoes depicting early Christian torturing of saints and martyrs: there were portrayals of death by crucification, beheading, chopping off body parts, drowning, burning, crushing, hanging, hanging upside down, boiling, stoning, squeezing in vices, what have I forgotten?

2012 Greece
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Delphi
sunny and warm
06/27/2012, Delphi, Greece

We drove a few hours to Delphi, one of the most important archeological sites of Greece. Unfortunately the site closed just as we arrived at 4 pm, despite our guide book claim that it would be open till 6:45 pm. Austerity measures, we were told.

We were able to visit part of the Delphi site, the Sanctuary of Athena, before driving down windy roads on to the seaside town of Galaxidi for the night. We stayed at the Gandimede, a small hotel recommended by Craig and Katherine. The scenery en route was spectacular! We hadn't realized that Greece was so mountainous. We saw a sign for a ski resort near Delphi. The summer roadside was abloom with yellow witches broom and pink oleander.

DELPHI PHOTOS CLICK HERE

Back to Delphi next morning, we walked up to the Sanctuary of Apollo, where the Oracle spoke her prophecies, supposedly mumbled, then "translated" by the priests. We hiked further past the treasury, the amphitheater and finally to the stadium, where athletes once competed in the Pythian Games.

2012 Greece
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Quick Trip to the Mainland: Athens
sunny and warm, low 80's
06/26/2012, Athens, Greece

The Olympic Air flight to Athens took less than hour, and it was another hour by modern metro into the city. We checked into our hotel before noon. Booked online with a hefty last-minute discount, the O & B Boutique Hotel was perfectly located, luxurious and empty. Pre-season, or Greek financial crisis affecting tourism?

With map and tour book in hand, we set out for the Acropolis. The first glimpse of the Parthenon was truly breathtaking. It sits atop a huge rock that can be seen for miles around. We walked through the Agora to the Archeological Museum, and had a late lunch at the museum cafe, enjoying the view of the Parthenon through a wall of glass. We then toured the Museum, with its amazing collection of sculptures and artifacts not just from Athens, but from several archeological sites in Greece. After a coffee break (which means ice cream for Burger), we hiked up to the top of the Acropolis to the temple ruins. The Parthenon restoration has been ongoing and will continue for years to come, but the cranes and construction scaffolds didn't ruin the experience. On the walk down again we stopped to watch, and listen to, the preparation for an evening concert at the ancient amphitheater, with its fantastic acoustics.

Exhausted from the exercise and hot sun, we stopped at the first taverna we came to in Plaka, the pedestrian neighborhood at the base of the Acropolis. We were impressed by the waiter's presentation of menu items, using his iPad. The moussaka and cold beer tasted wonderful! We slept well that night.

ATHENS PHOTOS

After a sumptuous breakfast buffet next morning, we walked down Ermou Street, with its fashionable international chain stores, to the Parliament, just in time for the changing of the guard. The poor guys had to stand at attention in the hot sun, trying to ignore the tourists who took turns standing next to them for photos.

Then back to the hotel where our rental car awaited us. The agent kindly drove us to the outskirts of the city, where he hopped into the Metro. We we glad we'd purchased the Greek GPS program for our iPad. Burger's nine school years (!) of Greek were of little help reading some of the road signs covered with grafitti!

2012 Greece
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Dodecanese: Leros
sunny and windy
06/19/2012, Aegean Sea, Greece

The sailing strategy of the Aegean is to get as far north as you're going in June before the Meltemi season sets in, with its strong northwest winds. We got a taste of it next day, a boisterous beat north to Leros. We anchored in the well sheltered Partheni Bay, in front of a military post where political prisoners were once tortured! Leros played a prominent role in the Aegean during World War II, as we were to learn more about later.

As we entered the bay we emailed our friends Craig and Katherine Briggs of sv Sangaris, who we knew were at the Partheni Boatyard. We got an immediate email reply, then a call on VHF: "Come ashore for dinner at 6:30! Bring the laundry, we have a washing machine!" Music to our ears! Craig and I had served on the board of SSCA together, and we'd all met at Gams in Florida a few times over the past several years. They had left Sangaris at the Partheni Boatyard over winter and were renting a cozy little cottage while recommissioning her. We dined several times together and joined them for late afternoon swims at Agia Kioura, a beautiful little cove just over the hill.



We rented a car one day and explored the island, getting lost among the winding roads to the Kastro (castle) and to Lakki, the main port. Lakki is known for its Art Deco buildings, a legacy of the Italian occupation in the 1920's and 30's. The Germans bombed Lakki in 1944 and ships were sunk in the harbor. We visited the WW II museum, built into one of the many tunnels that protected the civilian population during the battle of Leros. We felt sorry for the poor museum employee, who had to spend hours each day inside the tunnel, listening to audios of bombings and sirens.

LEROS PHOTOS

Just a week after having scrubbed the bottom last, we discovered it just as foul as before. Evidently the antifouling paint from Thailand was no longer doing its job. Since we were anchored off one of the few boatyards in the Aegean capable of hauling our boat, we decided to have the bottom repainted. Since the haul-out price included seven days on the hard, we used the opportunity to travel to mainland Greece for a few days. The small Leros airport was right next to the boatyard, how convenient is that? Craig and Katherine gave us lots of good advice and tips where to go and what to see.

2012 Greece
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Cruising the Dodecanese: Kalymnos
blue sky as usual
06/13/2012, Cyclades, Greece

The Dodecanese are a group of 12 islands in the Aegean Sea, just off the southwestern coast of Turkey. We visited six of them: Kastellorizon, Rhodes, Symi, Kalymnos, Leros and Patmos.

We remembered to switch courtesy flags this time, when we sailed north from Bodrum to Kalymnos. Like Symi, Kalymnos also once thrived on the sponge industry. We're not sure what they live from today, since there's not much tourism. Yet the young men can apparently afford gasoline (USD 8/gallon!), given all the noisy motorcycles that zoom around the waterfront. Bikes and golf carts would make so much more sense on these small islands, but they're just not cool.

Soon after we med-moored to the town quay, sv Makani glided in right next to us, a rendezvous pre-arranged per email. They had just been to the island of Kos to pick up Felix' sister who flew in from Germany. We all wandered about the town and then had fresh fish at a waterfront taverna.

It was our last time together as our paths diverged from here. Typical of many northern European retirees, Felix and Monika will spend summer at home and return to the Med in off-season fall, when it's cooler and quieter.

2012 Greece
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How We Entered Greece and Then Left Turkey
sunny and warm
06/12/2012, Bodrum, Turkey

Oops, just in the nick of time I checked our passports and discovered that our three month Turkish visa was actually 90 days, and it was due to expire the very next day! Good thing that Bodrum was our next stop! Off we went that afternoon, and after a bouncy night anchored near the big, illuminated medieval castle, we spent the next day shopping and doing errands before clearing out after lunch.

Customs required us to tie the boat up to their dock so the built-in purchases could be verified for our VAT stamp, so we dinghied out to Halekai and brought her in. Not realizing how time-consuming the procedure would be, Burger had to first hustle to the police station, harbor master and bank before Customs would issue clearance, and the coveted stamp.

The bank was closed when he got there, but a sympathetic employee let him slip in the door, only to have to stand on a long line before he could pay the fee. He rushed back to the Customs dock where I was waiting, just before they closed. Had we had to postpone till the next day we would have been fined for overstaying our visa. No mention was made of our entry stamps into Greece a few days before. We left the dock just before dusk and motored to a quiet anchorage, and celebrated the mission accomplished with sundowners.

It was finally time to bid Turkey goodbye. Only later did I look at our passport stamps and discover that, quite by coincidence, we left Turkey a year to the day after we had arrived in Istanbul from Thailand!

2012 Greece
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Amphitheater View at Anchor
cloudless as usual
06/11/2012, Knidos, Turkey

Our next stop was Knidos, which we almost bypassed due to a friend's bad experience dragging anchor in heavy wind. Luckily the weather was settled for the two nights we were there. It was a very unique place. Where else in the world can you anchor right across from an ancient Roman amphitheater? We hiked up to the lighthouse for a great view of the coast, and had calamari at the taverna that evening.

Next morning we went ashore to visit the ruins and met up with Tas, our tour guide friend from Marmaris, who was leading a group of Brits. It was hot ashore so a swim was wonderfully refreshing, even for Burger, so the water temp is gradually warming up. Later on, sv Makani sailed and we had a nice visit with Felix and Monika.

KNIDOS PHOTOS CLICK HERE

2012 Greece
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Datca: Marzipan and Olives
blue sky as usual
06/10/2012, Datca, Turkey

On our way to Datca next day, we remembered to switch the courtesy flag back to the half moon and star of Turkey again.

Datca is known for its almonds and olive industry. We had been there on a bus day trip from Marmaris in early spring, when the almond trees were blooming, and visited an olive oil factory. We had found a shop in town that sold high quality marzipan. Burger told the shop owner that coating his marzipan with chocolate, like they do in Germany, would surely give him a marketing edge. We returned to the same shop and found no chocolate covered marzipan, but we stocked up on it anyway, as well as olive oil.

DATCA PHOTOS CLICK HERE

Then we sought out the Customs office. Only to be told, nope, no can do, only Bodrum Customs can issue the VAT exit stamp ...

Photo: "Evil Eye" good luck charm, seen all over Turkey

2012 Greece
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Symi of the Dodecanese
sunny and warm, low 80's
06/07/2012, Symi, Greece

Some Greek islands are a stone's throw off the western coast of Turkey, and we didn't want to miss Symi, a popular stop right on our way to Datca. We weren't ready to clear into Greece yet, not having cleared out of Turkey, but we'd heard that Greek Customs turn a blind eye to transient boaters from Turkey, as long as you keep a low profile. So we sailed to the far end of the island from the town where the Customs office was located. We anchored in the bay of Panormitis, famous for the Monastery of St. Michael the Archangel. A helpful cruiser rowed over to remind us to exchange our Turkish courtesy flag for the Greek one. So much for keeping a low profile!

We went ashore to tour the monastery, and consulted the bus schedule: The only bus to town left at 7:30 am. Next morning we dinghied ashore bright and early, just in time to see the bus depart without us. It left ten minutes early! So we decided to sail around to Symi town instead. Surely Customs wouldn't notice us among all the other boats there?

Within minutes of med-mooring at the quay, an official turned up asking to see our papers, and directed us to the Customs office. Oh well. Our 90-day Greek visa, transit log and Schengen clocks started ticking sooner than planned. No notice was taken of the missing Turkish clearance stamp. Would Datca Customs notice our Greek entrance stamp when we cleared out of Turkey?



Symi is a bustling little town, special for its cheerful multi-hued neoclassical houses that climb the surrounding hillsides. Sponge diving used to be the main occupation, but decreasing demand and then a virus in 1986 all but wiped out the industry. Lots of Symian "spongers" emigrated to America and Australia. Years ago I remember seeing a "little Greece" community of spongers in Florida. They may well have been Symians.

Several giant cruise ships and ferries came into the crowded harbor, with sailboats weaving around them on their way to and from the town quay. Noisy motorcycles zipped around the tourists in the narrow streets and alleyways. Tavernas and cafes were busy and the supermarket was well-stocked. The Greek financial crisis and looming election didn't seem to be affecting business.

SYMI PHOTOS CLICK HERE

2012 Greece
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Med-Moored Along the Waterfront
sunny and warm, low 80's
06/06/2012, Symi, Greece

We awoke early this morning to the sound of this fisherman's engine, mooring his boat next to us. He was out all night, yet his catch was meager. Not surprising, after years of over-fishing and dynamiting in the Med.

2012 Greece
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Farewell to Marmaris
Nancy and Burger Zapf
06/05/2012, Bozburun, Turkey

It was hard to leave Marmaris, which had begun to feel like home after our several months living aboard at Netsel Marina. Our departure was made easier by sailing together with cruising buddies from the South Pacific, Felix and Monika of sv Makani, who live in Germany and keep their boat in Turkey. First stop was twenty miles down the coast to Bozuk Bükü, a sheltered anchorage where we shared a big fresh grilled fish at the taverna that night. The next morning we all hiked to the ruins of the ancient citadel guarding the entrance to the bay.



After lunch we set sail and rounded the peninsula to the small town of Bozburun, and anchored in lovely clear water outside the harbor. Felix and Monika put us to shame, swimming in the chilly water, so we braved the shock of the first plunge and took a dip. Delightful! Burger was unhappy to find the hull covered in algae growth, despite having just cleaned it two weeks before. He fired up the diving compressor, got out the hookah and cleaned the bottom, a big job. I made dinner and we spent a quiet evening aboard.

Next day we visited town to clear out of Turkey. We needed an exit stamp on some receipts to get a sizable VAT refund on boat parts we had purchased in Marmaris. After waiting over an hour for the Customs office to open, the official told us that he wasn't qualified to issue the special VAT stamp. We would have to go to Customs in Datca instead.

2011-12 Turkey
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Exploring the Southern Coast of Turkey
Nancy and Burger Zapf
05/26/2012, Marmaris to Kekova Roads and Back

 Download exploring_the_southern_coast_of_turkey.pdf (61K)

When the weather warmed up enough and most projects were done, we left mid-April for a four-week cruise of southern Turkey. We met up with cruising friends we last saw in the Bahamas and the South Pacific, and we took a 3-day car trip to Antalya, visiting lots of ancient ruins. Our report about our southern coast cruise was published in the SSCA Commodores' Bulletin.

KAS PHOTOS CLICK HERE
MYRA
ANTALYA
ASPENDOS
PERGE
KEKOVA ROADS
COLD WATER BAY
KASTELLORIZIN GREECE

2011-12 Turkey
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Wintering Aboard in Marmaris, Turkey
Nancy and Burger Zapf
04/15/2012, Marmaris, Turkey

 Download wintering_aboard_in_marmaris_turkey.pdf (49K)

We spent the winter living aboard Halekai at Netsel Marina, busy with yet more major refit projects (rebuilding the engine, a new mainsail, etc.) and socializing with other liveaboards. I volunteered as the clubhouse librarian, giving me first dibbs of all returned books and DVD's. We were the decorating committee for the Leap Year and St. Patty Day parties.



We also went sightseeing (camel wrestling! Ephesus!). Winter was chilly but electric heaters kept us snug aboard Halekai.

CAMEL WRESTLING PHOTOS

CAMEL WRESTLING VIDEO

EPHESUS

MARMARIS

My birthday was celebrated in style with a special dinner together with friends, with a delicious birthday cake for dessert.



On Easter Sunday we went to Netsel Marina's Easter party, and I took part in the Easter bonnet contest, using the pink silk roses from my birthday bouquet.



A link to our report "Wintering aboard in Marmaris" is on the right menu of this web page. It was written for cruisers, and is published in the SSCA Commodores' Bulletin.

2011-12 Turkey
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Where in the World Are the Zapf's?
Nancy and Burger Zapf
12/30/2011, Annapolis, MD

By the time we were ready to leave Marmaris late July, it was very hot. We flew home to more hot weather during our month stateside, but it didn't keep us from getting around! A week in Annapolis visiting our kitty (18 years old and still doing fine!); a week in Wilmington with Melanie and family; a week with Vivien and family in Los Alamos; then a week RVing and hiking in beautiful Sedona, Arizona. It was great seeing our three wee grandkiddies!

WILMINGTON PHOTOS

LOS ALAMOS PHOTOS

SEDONA PHOTOS

Then it was off to Ecuador for Burger's tenth stint at the Mission Clinic in Guadalupe. (Our 2011 Guadalupe photo report is on the Logs and Links list on the right side of this web page.) Burger especially loves doing ear surgery and cleft palate cases. How awesome to see a severely disfigured child transformed to normal! I helped out with patient data entry and even some assisting in the OR. Weekends we went hiking in the Andes Mountains, staying at our favorite Copalinga Ecolodge.

I'm now on the board of the U.S. Foundation that supports the Clinic with tax-deductible donations. While Burger solicits for medical supplies, I help fundraise and search for volunteers for our team, all online from wherever we are. We now have a FaceBook page for the Clinic (you don't have to be a FaceBooker to view it):

MISSION CLINIC GUADALUPE

We arrived back in Annapolis just in time to attend the last day of the Annapolis Boat Show, and see a bunch of friends there. Late October we got together with family and relatives for a big Family Reunion upstate New York, and celebrated Burger's birthday. All the little cousins had a blast at the apple picking farm!

FAMILY REUNION PHOTOS

On our way home from Kingston we stopped to visit my old college "roomie" Twink at her horse farm.

TWINK'S HORSE FARM PHOTOS

November was a nice quiet break from all our traveling. Friends Denis and Laure Seynhaeve, sv Escapade, kindly lent us their zippy little BMW when they left for the Caribbean, saving us the cost of renting a car. Vivien and Nik and the girls came for a short visit early December.

ANNAPOLIS PHOTOS

After Christmas in Wilmington with Melanie, Trey and 3 year old Ivey (photo), we returned to the boat in Marmaris, just in time to ring in the New Year together with friends old and new.

Trips Home
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Medical Mission Guadalupe 2011
Nancy Zapf
10/15/2011, Guadalupe, Ecuador

 Download ent_guadalupe_2011.pdf (1.2MB)

Here's our 2011 ENT Team photo report about our volunteer month in Guadalupe, Ecuador, which was Burger's tenth stint since 2004. He especially loves doing ear surgery and cleft palate cases. How awesome to see a severely disfigured child transformed to normal!

I helped out with patient data entry and even some assisting in the OR. Weekends we went hiking in the Andes Mountains, staying at our favorite Copalinga Ecolodge just outside of Zamora, run by a Belgian couple who serve wonderful European meals.

Click here to learn about the lodge, which attracts birders and butterfly collectors from all over the world: COPA LINGA ECOLODGE

I'm now on the board of the U.S. Foundation that supports the Clinic with tax-deductible donations. While Burger solicits for medical supplies, I help fundraise and search for volunteers for our team, all online from wherever we are.

Here's a link to the Foundation page of the Guadalupe website:

FRIENDS OF THE MISSION CLINIC OF OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE, INC

One of my projects was to create a FaceBook page for the Clinic, click here (you don't have to be a FaceBooker to view it):

FRIENDS OF THE MISSION CLINIC

Medical Volunteer Trips to Ecuador
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Istanbul to Marmaris, Turkey
Nancy and Burger Zapf
07/30/2011, Marmaris, Turkey

As soon as Halekai was hoisted onto the ship's deck early June, we flew from Phuket to Istanbul. We marveled at the Blue Mosque and Topkapki Palace, ate kebabs and Turkish Delight, explored the maze of the Grand Bazaar, and learned what a Whirling Dervish is.

ISTANBUL PHOTOS CLICK HERE

We then bussed across Anatolia, stopping to sightsee in Safranbolu (where saffron comes from), Cappadocia, Konya and Pamukale.

SAFRANBOLU PHOTOS

CAPPADOCIA

KONYA

PAMUKELE

We arrived in Marmaris in time to greet the ship as she sailed in the bay bearing Halekai and a more than a dozen other salt-encrusted yachts. After she splashed we moved to a berth at Yacht Marine, and set to work cleaning her up. What fun to find old friends Manfred and Gini Schubert aboard their sv Mindedal, in the same marina! We last saw them when they visited us in the Chesapeake many years ago.

We spent a month in Marmaris, doing boat chores and getting acquainted with the area. One evening we stumbled upon the finale of a national Turkish folkdance competition at the huge Marmaris Amphitheatre. We were the only tourists in the audience, and it was free!

FOLK DANCE VIDEO


2011-12 Turkey
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