One more "must-see" on our list before leaving Pylos turned out to be my favorite. The wind was unfavorable to take the boats and we didn't want to lose our spots in the marina, so instead we rented a car with Gini and Manfred and drove around to the north end of Navarino Bay. There we parked near the gorgeous, crescent-shaped Voidokilia Beach, its white sand and turquoise waters reminiscent of the Bahamas.



But before taking a dip, we circled the rim and through the sand dunes to the steep trail up the hill behind it, first to Nestor's Cave of Odysseus fame, where we took refugee from the sun. Then we continued on up to the ancient castle that guards the north entrance to the bay, not much more than outer walls and foundations in ruins but with spectacular views. We could see smoke from a wildfire in the distant mountains.

Having earned our reward hiking to the top, the cool water felt like velvet. We lunched at our favorite taverna in Yialova, where we watched colorful kite surfers dancing in the waves, then saw yellow firefighter seaplanes scoop up water and fly off to douse wildfires. Now we know what that droning sound was that we've heard for days, it was the seaplanes!

After lunch we had yet another swim off the beach at the narrow north entrance of the bay. Burger and I walked and paddled our way across the shallows to the island on the other side of the inlet, underestimating the strength of the current running through it. On our return we were swept into deeper water (luckily in, not out of the bay) and had to "power swim" to make it back across. After all the sun and exercise, we slept well that night!

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