FIRST LIGHT

Though our little hurricane hole was lovely, and the winds still in the 20's we opted to slip out and cross the bank at high water to make for parts north. After zig-zagging across some shallows we popped the jib and were finally able to SAIL ... and with Hydie steering!! It was a gorgeous beam reach under sunny skies with just the genoa billowing out against the aqua and blue - that's livin! As the afternoon slipped away, the winds that were predicted to diminish remained strong. We anchored in the lee of the (reputedly) "most beautiful" cay in the Exumas, Hawksbill, and spent a quiet night. In the morning, anticipating snorkeling among the fishes and hiking the quiet beaches, we rose to find the wind STILL blowing "like stink" as they say here. What to do ... what ... to ... do?? Friends who've visited Europe say you reach a point where you think, "AFC ... Another F_ _ _ ing Cathedral". It could be we've reached a similar overload, or maybe the barn instinct has kicked in. Either way, we were headed north again.

We spent a night at the aptly named Highbourne Cay where we and a small Nordic Tug were surrounded by fabulous "Gin Palaces", huge ultra-mega-yachts populated with tanned Adonis-men whose grins show off their dental work to great effect and 'colored and coiffed' women bedecked in gold and high heel sandals daintily tiptoe off their McMansion-boats to sip frosty drinks in the shady bar. Bristol, showing the regal side of her personality, decided she liked it there ... liked it quite a bit in fact ... enough to stay. Had it not been for the keen eye of our Nordic-Tug-neighbor, who spotted her on the hillside noshing on the verge a few hours later, we might have returned cat-less. Alas, her cover blown, Ms. B was locked in the dungeon for the rest of the day. As for us, Highbourne is not a favorite. They charge extra for everything; absolutely nothing comes with your slip, not even much in the way of hospitality.

Not a problem. The next morning we rose at the ungodly hour of 0325 and before 0400 we were away. The winds were non-existent all day long, across the bank watching the sea fans below us wave in the current, past New Providence (Nassau) with its pall of stinky smoke from garbage fires and over the indigo-deep "Tongue of the Ocean" where the Navy Subs play. Just after 3pm we were leading a whole parade of sailboats into Chub Cay Marina - everyone desperate for a refuge from the predicted westerly blow whose beginnings were just raising cats-paws on the water as dusk settled. We congregated in the bar for some of Charlie's fabulous beverages and lively conversation about weather, where we'd been, where we were going: Sandra and Ronald, a fun couple from New York; Canadian Wayne aboard the "Emma A" (He laughed when I asked him if he had meant to name it that ... eh?), and Aussies Paul and Tina aboard a gorgeous Wauquiez Saloon Pilothouse 40, waiting to head to Ft. Lauderdale as well.

Today it's blowing upwards of 30kts but we are snug and secure. At breakfast I noted Sunday's special was Bahamian Fish Stew, so when the waiter (Charlie again) asked what I'd like, I said, "Sunday's special... but it's Tuesday." He laughed and we got to talking. I told him it had been recommended but I'd not seen it on a menu thru all our travels here. He explained that it's an easy dish, "They make it on Sunday 'cause it's quick." "If it's so quick," I asked, "Can they make me some today?" He laughed again and lo and behold, I finally got to taste it - it's delicious! (I have the recipe!!) Later, strolling the grounds to the grand infinity pool we looked west into the teeth of this bad-boy-blow and sighed... west is just the direction we need to go.

There is predicted to be a slight hiatus; from mid-day Wednesday to mid-day Thursday the winds will be northerly and diminishing to 10-15 kts. This isn't great traveling news. North winds (which blow south) against the Gulf Stream (which travels north) can get quite rough - but the next break (maybe ... possibly) is sometime late next week. Sigh... not much of a choice. It will mean a very, very long bouncy 128 miles / 22 hours but I've a supply of Stugeron and caffeinated mints - better living thru chemistry! (I wonder if Ms. B would appreciate some :^) And when we're finally secured in Lauderdale we'll have a burger house within walking distance, and real cell phones, and we'll be nearly home! Then the real work will begin: De-rigging First Light, stowing all her sails, the radar, dodger, dingy, mast and finding a trucker to bring her home 'cause we've decided we're finally finished with The Bahamas.