01/08/2010, Harborwalk Marina, Galveston
So here it is. The dodger hardtop. Richard did a great job on this one. We painted the top side with nonskid awlgrip and the under side without the nonskid. It seems to fit well and and is stable. The handholds are just purchased starboard handles. Next, the canvas and glass. Yet another learning project.
Yesterday Richard pulled two of the six shroud chain plates. The two upper plates are the ones pulled. Cracks were found in both. We took them to Sticks and Rigging in Kemah to have new ones fabricated.
Still to work on this week is the removal of the port teak rub rail. The hull to deck joint needs to be cleaned out and resealed. The rails will be taken home to be revarnised. Later the starboard side will receive the same treatment.
Currently an artic blast has blown through Galveston and it is damn cold. Working in the 30ish degree temps makes for miserable conditions. We look forward to warmer days soon and being able to enjoy our new diggs, Harborwalk Marina.
|
Comments [1]
08/23/2009, League City, TX
I used 3/4 inch square teak sticks for stiffeners and 3/4 inch polystyrene pink foam insulation (from HomeDepot) for core material. You can bend the Pink foam with a heat gun. But, be careful, if the epoxy kicks (heats up) too hard it will melt the foam.
The PVC core material from fibreglass suppliers cost about 50$ per 4'x4' square. The Pink foam from HomeDepot is about $10. West system epoxy sticks to both.
I cut the teak from my broken bow sprit (as a result of the Oil Rig incident... previously blogged).
The fibreglass top at this stage weights only about 50lbs. The frame weighs about the same.
|
08/23/2009, League City, TX
After the stainless steel bows were bent and test fitted, I could start making the fibreglass top. Yes, this will be a hard top dodger. We wanted something that we could grab ahold or lean on if needed.
So, I purchased some inexpensive cardboard insulated sheathing from McCoys Lumber. It was flexible yet flat. I added some wood slats to help stiffen my cardboard mold where needed. I clamped it to the frame to ensure that shape was correct.
I put mylar over the sheathing. Mylar is smooth and will release from West System Epoxy with the use of a heat gun.
Pictured above is after I removed the mylar and flipped the whole thing over in preparation for glassing in the core material to the top.
|
