03/04/2010, Harborwalk Marina
I test fitted the mold in the boat to ensure that it fit properly before continuing on. It fit fine.
Pictured is the mold after sanding the corners of the Pink foam and applying Fix Flex tape (found at Home Depot in the ductwork section) to keep the corners smooth for easy release from the epoxy. I applied a generous coat of automotive car wax. After applying wax, I did not wipe it off. Now I will begin applying layers of fibreglass.
Before creating this mold, I tested the car wax technique. It works adequately for situations where the mold can be destroyed in the process of extracting it from the fibreglass. I will not get a perfectly smooth surface, but for a holding tank, perfection isn't necessary.
I used Mylar sheets on my mold for my companion way cover, dodger hard top and cockpit floor replacement when I need a very smooth surface.
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02/21/2010, Harbor Walk, Hitchcock, TX
Our stainless steel holding tank is leaking again. This time it is pin holes in the top. Back in 2003, I had the seams rewelded to repair leaks.
I've decided to replace the holding tank rather than try to repair it again.
I shopped for a plastic tank, but could not locate a tank in the right size and shape. I could put a much smaller holding tank on the boat, but we really wanted a bigger one, not a smaller one. I considered just switching to the Raritan Electro San Type I MSD. But, due to the high cost and large number of no-discharge zones in the US makes a Type I MSD useless without an accompanying holding tank. Do the environmental regulators realize that such strict rules cause us to fall back on the inferior but legal holding tanks? The composting heads are just not for us... for more reasons than I will list here.
So, I'm building a fibreglass tank using West System Epoxy. While West System Epoxy is 3 times the cost of Polyester resin, it better withstands water inpregnation and remains flexible, which is important when building a holding tank.
I'm making the mold out of pink foam. I'll round the corners and put car wax on it. I'll add the top after removing the mold. More later....
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02/21/2010, Harbor Walk, Hitchcock, TX
We didn't cruise this winter, so we do projects.
We had heard from several other Krogen 38 owners that the chainplates for their upper shrouds tended to crack where it goes through the deck. I had planned on removing, inspecting and rebedding all of the chainplates this winter anyway. And, yes, mine had hairline cracks too. The port side plate had many significant cracks... we're speculating that our 9+ knot run from Pensacola to Tampa last winter may have contributed significantly. We were really enjoying the speed and waited too long to reef. scary stuff.
So, we paid $500 for a couple of slightly more substantial replacements. Reinstalling them was a trick. Nothing ever goes back on exactly they way that they come off. The holes had to be made a little larger... and then resealed, because you can't let moisture get into the deck core.
The lower shroud chain plates looked fine. So, we resealed and reinstalled them without replacement. If we were wealthy, we might have had them x-rayed or replaced... If I did everything that caution dictates, we'd have a pristine boat, but we'd be financially broke and we'd never leave the dock.
I'm considering replacing the twin backstay chain plates. They are bending a little which is damaging the cap rail and more importantly causing leaks at the the hull to deck joint.
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