Adventures of Hiatus

08 June 2009
31 May 2009 | Portland, OR
14 May 2009 | Seabrook, Texas
13 May 2009
12 May 2009 | Texas
11 May 2009 | Gulf of Mexico
10 May 2009 | Gulf of Mexico
08 May 2009 | Gulf of Mexico
07 May 2009 | Mexico
01 May 2009 | Mexico
27 April 2009 | Belize
22 April 2009 | Lighthouse Reef, Belize
21 April 2009 | Lighthouse Reef, Belize
17 April 2009 | Cay Caulker
08 April 2009 | Belize
29 March 2009 | Lighthouse Reef, Belize
27 March 2009 | Honduras
16 March 2009 | Honduras
09 March 2009 | La Ceiba, Roatan
04 March 2009 | Roatan, Honduras

Hiatus Wrap Up

08 June 2009
Heather and Kent
We came up with a few bullet points from our trip to wrap up the Hiatus blog. Enjoy!

• Number of churches Kent had walked into and didn't combust: we stopped counting after Mexico where we visited at least 20 churches and Kent had still survived.
• Guest with the most hours spent on Hiatus: Glenn Belshaw - El Salvador to Ecuador, Panama Canal to San Blas Islands, Mexico to Texas.
• Countries visited: Canada, US, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras, Costa Rica , Panama, Ecuador, Peru, Belize, and Colombia.
• Miles logged: over 8,000
• Number of times boarded unexpectedly by the Navy: 6 (1 time in Canada, 1 time in the US, 4 times in Mexico)
• Most expensive item lost overboard: pair of $100 sunglasses - two different pairs.
• Best fishing: Baja Coast, Mexico. Had to pull in the lines after the freezer was packed to the top with yellow fin tuna and mahi mahi.
• Average number of books read: 104 for Kent (based on 1 book per week), way less for Heather.
• Most unusual item purchased: bull scrotum in Zihautenejo, Mexico. They make them into baskets that hold pens and other office supplies.
• Number of electronics that couldn't stand up to 2 years of use in a sailboat: 2 hard drives, 1 GPS, 1 laptop, 1 AIS receiver.
• Best place for a local lunch: Ecuador at $1.50US for a large bowl of soup, beef/chicken/fish, beans, rice, small salad and a big glass of fresh juice.
• Nicest hotel room for $15US a night: Galapagos.
• Best deal on Tangaray gin: Copan Ruins city, Honduras at under $10US a bottle.
• Most frightening moment traveling inland: Bus ride from Quito to Guayaquil in Ecuador. It was 10 hours of single lane winding roads through the Andes as speeds exceeding 50 mph.
• Best trade: $5US for 2 ginormous fresh lobsters delivered to our boat in the Sea of Cortez.
• Best snorkeling: Cayos Cochinos, Honduras. It is a small group of islands between mainland Honduras and Roatan.
• Best diving: Roatan, Honduras. Yes, we thought it was better than Belize.
• Best country for ice cream: Panama. Think we just got lucky and found an outstanding gelato place.
• Favorite city: Cartagena, Colombia. Walled city, forts and some wonderful architecture made this our favorite.
• Best place to see wildlife up close and personal: Galapagos Islands.
• Items we learned are sold in all grocery stores in each country we visited: Pringles chips and Coca Cola.
• Food items that were almost impossible to find outside the US: chocolate chips and beef jerky.
• Favorite ruins: Kent: Copan ruins in Honduras. Heather: Tikal in Guatemala. Machu Picchu was amazing and a class of it's own.
• Favorite place to anchor: San Blas Islands, Panama. Small palm tree covered islands, Kuna Indians, the remoteness and the clear waters made this a place we could have spent months exploring.
• Cannot cruise without items - Kent: internet antenna to access all those unsecure networks out there, Heather: ipod to make it through the night watches. For Hiatus: a Rocna anchor to keep us secure in the nastiest of storms and an AIS receiver so we have the details of surrounding commercial traffic (name, speed, closest point of approach, length etc).
• Worst cruising moment - Kent: violent food poisoning in Mexico, and from a really nice restaurant not the local street meat. Heather: Being bit by a very scary dog in Honduras while on a run.
• Best cruising moment: Anytime we were not working on maintaining or repairing the boat. We had heard that the definition of cruising was "working on your boat in exotic locations" and can now attest to the truth of that definition.
• Most frustrating inland traveling moment: Traveling 10 hours on a red eye midnight chicken bus to Tikal in Guatemala. We decided a plane ride was in order for the return, regardless of the cost.
• Worst boat project completed: cleaning out the hoses that run to/from the head and holding tank.
• Number of blog posts: 67 (give or take a few)
• Most unusual local food we came across: Guinea pigs (Ecuador).
• Number of books aboard that were supposed to teach us Spanish: 4. Number of weeks in Spanish classes: 4. Amount of Spanish we have retained: 4%.
• Most comical moment: A small town in Mexico where we attended a full blown Mexican wrestling event. Kent and another cruiser bought wrestling masks and jumped in the ring prior to the real event and showed off their WWF moves. It was quite impressive and had both cruisers and locals cheering as they body slammed each other!
• Visitors from home that came aboard Hiatus: Brittany and Mike (Oregon), Bob, Doug (Kent's dad) and Paul (Oregon to Washington), Laura (Heather's sister) (Washington), Charles (Oregon to California), Brittany and Mike (Los Angeles to Catalina Island), Kelly and Oscar (Catalina Island, CA), Dane, Stephanie and Dave (San Diego to Cabo San Lucas), Sandy and Doug (Kent's parents) (Puerto Vallarta, MX), Brittany and Mike (Barra de Navidad, MX), Laura (Heather's sister) and Justin (Barra de Navidad, MX), Charles, Jenny and Ryan (Ixtapa & Ztown), Glenn (Nicaragua to Ecuador), Bob and Glenn (Panama Canal to San Blas, Panama), Lara, Joe and Cobin (San Blas, Panama to Cartagena, Columbia), Dane and Steph (Honduras), Glenn (Mexico to Texas, USA).
Inland travels with: Kerry, Amy and Wyatt (Peru) and
Charles, Jenny and Ryan (Ecuador).
• Best exchange: 2000:1 in Columbia. We were millionaires every time we saw our ATM bank statement receipt with the balance in pesos.
• Most unusual item found aboard Hiatus: A gecko.
• Best sail: 4 days from Ecuador to Panama - all sails, no motor.
• Number of seasick experiences: Kent: 0. Heather: lost count.
• Number of people we have met who have shaped our cruising experiences and lives for the better: countless.

Thank you to our families and friends for supporting our adventures, to those fellow cruisers we crossed paths with and to those who followed our blog.

"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bow lines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover" - Mark Twain

Back in Portland

31 May 2009 | Portland, OR
Heather
Hiatus is still in Texas for sale but we are now home in Portland, OR. In just a few days we found hurricane insurance for the boat, bought a used car (Subaru wagon), packed everything we owned into it and headed for the Pacific Northwest. With over 2,000 miles to drive we stopped to enjoy the company of friends in Texas, Colorado Spring and Denver.

We are now in the process of moving back into our house, Kent is drumming up business again as a real estate broker www.kentsisk.com and I am searching for a job. We are grateful to our renters who took great care of our house and yard and we will reunite with our dog this week, who has been living it up at friends house these last 2 years.

Portland is unseasonably warm right now so the weather feels like it did when we were on the boat, but life is certainly different - as Kent says, he misses jumping off his house(ie Hiatus) and into the water.

We will post a few cruising recap emails shortly.

Back in the USA!

14 May 2009 | Seabrook, Texas
Heather
As Kent mentioned in his position reports, we had great wind our first day out of Isla Mujeres, Mexico. Unfortunately it shut off and we motored the other four days of our trip. The passage was quite uneventful but it was still very nice to have crew so that everyone got 6 hours of sleep each night (or at least in theory could try to get 6 hours sleep each night). Coming into Texas is a bit crazy, there are hundreds of oil rigs offshore to avoid and lots of shipping traffic - we love our AIS receiver and radar which help us locate where everything is and where it may be going!

We arrived in Galveston Tuesday afternoon but by the time we got checked in with US Customs we would not have enough daylight to make it to Seabrook so we stayed the night, had a fantastic dinner out and a great night sleep. Wednesday morning Joe jumped aboard and we headed to our dock spot at Seabrook Marina. Joe is the previous owner of Hiatus (well, it was Crimson Tide when he had the boat) and exudes that famous southern hospitality. It was great to have him aboard and share the short trip to Seabrook with him. We pulled into the same dock we first saw the boat at in December 2006, talk about coming full circle and back to where we started!

The next few days will be filled with the local boat show we are a part of with our broker, finding a car to buy and getting back in the swing of things - activating cell phones again, job hunting, etc.
We noticed that most of the areas we have seen here have rebounded quite quickly from last year's Hurricane Ike. It is amazing though that the streets we were standing in where covered with over 10 feet of water at one time. It should be said that not everyone has been fortunate to recover so quickly and there are constant reminders of the power a hurricane can inflict on homes, buildings, streets and the landscape.

By the way, it is over 90F during the day here and we are really looking forward to summer in Portland.

Picture is of the biggest flying fish we found on our boat. Usually they are just small ones that land on the deck.

Glenn's Guest Blog

13 May 2009
Glenn Belshaw
The final leg of SV Hiatus two year voyage was an uneventful 600+ mile, 4+ day passage for Cancun to Galveston Island, Texas. Before departing Cancun I had hoped to visit some of the Mayan Pyramids but, fear of the next world pandemic had closed the sites to tourist. We were able to leave Cancun before the World Health Organization had a chance to close Mexico because of Swine Flu fear. If you've had thoughts of cruising in the Gulf of Mexico keep this in mind, there's nothing there but Oil Rigs and Freighters, we saw one sailboat during the trip. Once in Galveston we saw the results of Hurricane Ike which hit the Galveston, Houston area last Fall. Talking to the locals it had a very devastating effect on the low lying areas; the entire area is low lying. The high light of the trip was a ride on a wooden roller coaster, it seems, our Skipper (Kent) has no interest in riding things that move quickly and make shape turns. I guess that's why he's such a good sailor.

I'd like to congratulate Kent and Heather on completing a trip most people only allow themselves to dream about and to thank them for inviting me along to share parts of their adventure.

-----------------------

Thank you Glenn for joining us along the way in our adventures! We appreciate your willingness to do night watches, help in some repairs and of course offer us your seasoned sailing advice. Our passages from Nicaragua to Ecuador, through the Panama Canal to San Blas and from Mexico to Texas were a lot more fun with you aboard! When you have s/v Medicine Man ready for cruising know we will be there to return favors. :-> -K&H
Vessel Name: Hiatus
Vessel Make/Model: CT-47
Hailing Port: Portland, OR USA
Crew: Heather and Kent Sisk
About: Email: sisk@svhiatus.com Skype: svhiatus
Extra: "Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bow lines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover" Mark Twain
Hiatus's Photos - Mexico
Photos 1 to 69 of 69 | Adventures of Hiatus (Main)
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Mexican Navy prepares to board Moody Blues after giving us the all clear. This would be the first of three boardings in consecutive days for our two boats.
Acapulco - The bay is HUGE with gigantic hotels that seem to line the beach for miles. Around the corner is Old Acapulco where we anchored and spent most of out time.
Flora and Fauna - These flowers were all around Acapulco Yacht Club and were beatiful.
Acapulco Cliff Divers - If you look closely you can see 2 divers in mid air. These dare devils plunge from 131 ft into a shallow opening. Nuts!
Turtle - We have been seeing turtles all over southern Mexico. They are always solitary and miles from shore.
Ixtapa - Charles, Jenny and Ryan come to visit!
Kent grins ear to ear with his stack of $1.00 US bills that the Turners brought down to us in Ixtapa. El Salvador and Ecuador uses the US currency and small bills are a necessity once we get there.
Morelia - View of the cathedral from atop our hotel roof. Thanks to the Turners for taking this picture of us.
La Catedral de Morelia - Lit up at night.
La Catedral de Morelia - This is a giant pipe organ at the back of the cathedral that has over 4,000 pipes. It
La Catedral de Morelia - Original stainglass and tall vaulted ceilings make this a spectacular site.
Morelia - Dancers in traditional dress entertain.
Morelia Church - There were so many churches that we saw in Morelia that I forgot the name of this one. It was quite impressive though.
Morelia Aqueduct - The original aqueduct still runs for almost a mile through the modern city.
Ztown - Certainly the oddest item we have seen in Mexico .... the hanging round items in this picture are bull scrotums. Yes, that
Peppers, peppers and peppers.
Ztown - Picture courteous of Charles Turner during the Turner family visit aboard Hiatus.
Santiago Bay - Manzanillo area.
Barra de Navidad - Fish shack in the Barra lagoon. Despite it
Barra de Navidad - Two boys wait at the end of the water taxi pier. The lagoon where we anchored is in the background of the picture, you can barely make out all the sailboats there.
Why don
Tenacatita village - Laura and Justin pose for a picture overlooking Tenacatita Village.
Tenacatita - Us in our dingy along the jungle tour. This estuary goes from the anchorage inland 3 miles to the village of Tenacatita. Lots of wildlife and mangroves. 
Thanks to Moody Blues for the picture.
Fish on! - Kent reels in a Mahi Mahi on the way to Tenacatita. 2 hours later we had a HUGE one on the line but it got away. I wasnt sure how we were going to get it onboard anyway (it was that big!).
Kent races a Lasar in the
Yelapa -View of the beach from the hillside town of Yelapa. There were lots of stairs to climb up/down everytime you wanted to get to the beach but great views!
Kent
Puerto Vallarta - just one of the many neat pieces of art in old town PV.
Kent on the beach in Puerto Vallarta.
Puerto Vallarta - Heather was very happy releasing baby turtles.
Puerto Vallarta - Baby turtles being released.
Puerto Vallarta - Baby turtles that hatched that morning ready to be transported to the beach for release.
Relaxing in Sayulita.
San Blas - view from the fort.
Bells of San Blas.
San Blas jungle tour - pretty white bird.
San Blas Jungle Tour - turtle
San Blas Jungle Tour - there is a green iguana hidden in the brush.
San Blas Jungle Tour - big croc cooling itself.
San Blas Jungle Tour - baby crocs at the croc farm.
Perfect picture! - Thanks to Jammin for this great picture of us sailing from Mazatlan to San Blas.
Fresh shrimp - Yummm. The best part is when you can dingy up to a shrimp boat and barter for shrimp. Hats, t-shirts and other items are much needed by these fisherman and they are happy to trade 2 kilos of giant shrimp for a hat.
Sunset at Marina Mazatlan.
Mazatalan - Huge elaborate sand castle in Old Town. Picture doesnt even do it justice.
Mazatlan - Fishing pangas line the city
Mazatlan - Main Cathedral in the city. While the exterior is nice the interior is amazing.
Hiatus under spinnaker on the Ha Ha race leg 1.
Sea of Cortez - Undersail and saying hi to everyone.
Sea of Cortez - Wonderful scenery as we travel from San Evaristo to La Paz.
El Gato - Bright red rocks surround half of the El Gato Bay. There was some good hiking here as well as a beautiful uninhabited white beach. Our favorite spot in the Sea of Cortez.
El Gato - Hiking at El Gato.
I love boatwork - The rule with boat work is that you can see the part you need to work on or you can touch it but never both at the same time. Add in the factor that you must contort your body into the smallest of spaces makes boat work the least favorite aspect of our adventure.
El Cardonal - Big cactus everywhere when we went ashore on Isla Partida.
Isla Partida - The landscape here was fantastic! Numerous variety of cacti and lush mangroves made for green hills on the island.
Dingy Wheels - This was one investment we are glad we made. We ran into some veteran cruisers in southern California who convinced us these were a necessity - and they were right! With shallow waters the dinghy wheels make getting to shore and bringing the dinghy up on the beach so much easier.
Jumping Rays - This was a daily phenomenon in San Evaristo. Rays would come through the bay jumping out of the water to land with a loud slapping sound. It was comical to watch at times and very entertaining.
San Evaristo - Homes here are pretty basic - 4 walls, a thatched roof but that is about it. A couple larger homes like this may have a solar panel to make life a bit easier. The state supports a small desalinization plant to supply fresh drinking water.
San Evaristo - Fishermen bring a shark up onto land. This image killed our desire to go any snorkling that day.
La Paz - Gigantic palm tree or cell phone tower in disguise?
Burgers in La Paz - This restaurant was a great find for us in La Paz. We ended up with a large group for dinner and pretty much took over the restaurant. It had been a good couple months since we had all had the standard burger and fries meal and it tasted fantastic. Not to mention the fact that they cook the food on a grill inside a truck!
Dia del Revolucion parade - Unfortunately this is the only picture we got as our batteries went dead. The whole town came out to watch the 2 hour + parade through downtown La Paz.
Ha Ha crew - Celebrating in Cabo! Thanks Dane, Steph and Dave for sailing with us.
Under Full Sail - Thanks to fellow Portland boat San Cles for this great picture of our boat underway on the Ha Ha race.
Hiking in Bahia Santa Maria - The green in this picture is the mangroves and there are miles of sand dunes are the background. Picture doesnt do it justice but it was a spectacular site.
Bahia Santa Maria - Second stop on the Ha Ha race. We are one of the 175 boats out in the bay in the picture (couldnt tell you which boat though!).
Wrestling in Turtle Bay - Kent and fellow Portland Ha Haer Seth take each other on in Turtle Bay before the big match. They got quite the applause from both the cruisers and the locals.
Fish on! - Thanks Dane and Dave for stocking our freezer with fresh fish on the Ha Ha race.
Mahi Mahi - Dave and Dane bring onboard a tasty mahi mahi fish. These fish are beautiful but loose their color quickly after being taken out of the water.
This is Mexico, it
 
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"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bow lines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover" Mark Twain