St. Simon's Island and Brunswick have been ROMA's home ports for over 12 years and we have sailed everywhere reachable within a day from these locations. Even though Savannah is only 80 miles north and a short car trip from SSI, it is 12-14 hour open ocean voyage by sailboat, or a two day trip up the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW). A good rule of thumb is that a one hour trip by car will take a day on a sailboat.

We have long wanted to visit River Street in Savannah by sailboat, so one of our main reasons for moving ROMA to Savannah at the end of the summer was to position ourselves closer to new sailing destinations including Hilton Head Island, Beaufort, and Charleston. I also have an assignment for Southwinds Magazine to write an article about cruising in and around Savannah.

In early November, on a perfect fall weekend, we set sail from Delegal Creek Marina for the 6 hour trip to River Street. You might wonder why, if we are docked at a marina in Savannah ,will it take half a day to sail to ...... Savannah? The straight line distance from Delegal Creek Marina on Skidaway Island to River Street in downtown Savannah is 13 miles, or about 20 minutes by car, but the track by boat is over 35 miles up the ICW which follows winding and twisting rivers, creeks, and canals.

The ICW or water route through Savannah is as interesting and mysterious as many of the names suggest. Our trip started south of the city on Delegal Creek in Ossabaw Sound and first brought us into the Little Ogeechee and Vernon Rivers just north of Hell's Gate, the infamous made-made cut through the western end of Ossabaw Sound . At Possum Point we turned into the Burnside River where we soon passed the confluence of Moon River, and yes there is actually a Moon River.

Savannah native Johnny Mercer penned the lyrics for Moon River, the hit song composed by Henry Mancini and sung by Audrey Hepburn in the 1961 Academy Award Winning movie Breakfast at Tiffany's. Mercer had a summer home on Burnside Island, which is bordered on its northern shore by Moon River. It is difficult to pass through Moon River without "Moon River, wider than a mile, I'm crossing you in style some day" dancing in your mind.

After passing Moon River and entering Skidaway Narrows near Pigeon Island boaters pass under one of the last two drawbridges remaining in Georgia. A new high span bridge is under construction on Diamond Causeway and within a few months Skidaway Narrows Drawbridge will pass into history. It will be a sad day when the drawbridges are gone. Each seems to have its own personality and there is something special about hailing the bridge tender by radio and seeing the massive roadway rise to allow your sailboat to pass underneath. You know all eyes are on you and for this brief moment time seems to stands still.

(Click here for video of ROMA passing underneath Skidaway Narrows Drawbridge)

The next ten miles of the ICW follows Skidaway River as the waterway passes between Skidaway Island to the east and Isle of Hope to the west. Isle of Hope is home to the Wormsloe Historical Site and many picturesque coastal homes overlooking the waterway. Wormsloe was the colonial plantation home of Noble Jones, one of the original settlers of Georgia along with General James Oglethorpe, the colony's founder. Wormsloe was purchased by the state in 1973 and now most of the original plantation is a state park. By car, visitors enter a mile long drive lined with live oaks and immediately think "Run Forest Run" because this was the location of the iconic scene from the 1994 hit movie Forest Gump. Who can forget Jenny yelling "Run Forest Run?"

Past Isle of Hope Marina and Burntpot Island is Runaway Negro Creek and Skidaway Institute of Oceanography (SkIO). SkIO is also home for R/V SAVANNAH, a state of the art oceanographic research ship, which provides her crew of scientists a platform for conducting "biological, chemical, physical, and geological oceanographic studies in estuarine and continental shelf waters throughout the southeastern US Atlantic and Gulf Coasts." SkIO was founded in 1967 on land donated by philanthropist Robert Roebling who was a prize cattle breeder and the great grandson of John A. Roebling, the designer of the Brooklyn Bridge.

John A. Roebling was an engineer who emigrated from Germany in 1832, and became a pioneer of suspension bridge technology. He built the Niagara Suspension Bridge, the first to carry a steam train. Roebling founded a wire cable company, which provided for the family's fortune. The John A. Roebling's Sons Company was carried on by subsequent generations, and had contracts to provide cable for George Washington and Golden Gate Bridges, among others.

Robert Roebling developed a deep love for the sea and shortly after his marriage in 1925 he commissioned the construction of a 170' three-masted schooner, the BLACK DOUGLAS. Built at the Bath Iron Works of Bath, Maine, and launched in 1930, she is one of the largest steel-hulled schooners ever built.

Robert and his wife Dorothy also built their home, Landfall, near Trenton, New Jersey and the family's foundry. By the late 1920s the Great Depression was worsening and a failed attempt to kidnap their children after the famous Lindbergh kidnapping convinced Robert that his family could no longer be safe at Landfall. Robert first visited Skidaway Island while on a hunting trip and fell in love with Modena Plantation on the north end of the island. He promptly purchased the plantation and by 1936 the family was living on BLACK DOUGLAS tied up at the north pier at Modena Plantation while the plantation was being restored.

In 1996 the BLACK DOUGLAS returned to her original dock on Skidaway Island to celebrate the 66th year of her commissioning and as part of the official opening ceremonies of the yachting events of the 1996 Olympics. BLACK DOUGLAS is currently owned by King Mohammed VI of Morocco.

The Skidaway River gives way to the Wilmington River just past SkIO at the north end of Skidaway Island. Whitemarsh Island with the prestigious Savannah Yacht Club is to the east and the maritime community of Thunderbolt lies to the west. Thunderbolt is a small town of less than three thousand, but is home to a large shrimping fleet and several excellent seafood restaurants. Thunderbolt Marina, Hinckley Yacht Services and Morningstar Bahia Blue Marina line the shore along this area of the ICW and provide service to small and large vessels of all makes from around the world. Thunderbolt is the heart of Savannah's recreational marine industry.

After passing under the Highway 80/Victory Drive Bridge and the causeway to Tybee Island, the ICW passes Bonaventure Cemetery. Bonaventure was once a 600 acre plantation and much of the grounds were planted in Live Oaks over a hundred years ago. For over 50 years an unassuming statue stood in Bonaventure Cemetery until Savannah photographer Jack Leigh chose "The Bird Girl" as his cover shot for the 1994 novel Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt. The Bird Girl and Bonaventure Cemetery became world famous and the cemetery is one of the top tourist attractions for Savannah visitors.

Past Bonaventure Cemetery and its peaceful walkway and benches overlooking the ICW, boaters encounter Causton Bluff - Sam Varnedoe Drawbridge on Island Expressway, which is actually two bridges since the roadway is four lanes wide. The drawbridge is decades old, cantankerous, and expensive for the City of Savannah to operate. In 2011, the state unveiled plans to eventually replace the drawbridge with a $43 million high span bridge over the ICW. Once closed, coastal Georgia will lose its last drawbridge.

Skipper James Ludwig of the sailboat LOVE OF MY LIFE will probably argue not soon enough. In 2002, he was traveling down the ICW when he contacted the bridge operator, Wesley Bowers, via radio and requested that the bridge be raised to allow him passage underneath. Unfortunately, the bridge was lowered too soon and LOVE OF MY LIFE was dismasted.

Miraculously, Ludwig nor his wife were injured as their ship's mast and rigging crashed down upon them, but their tragedy continued when the City of Savannah refused to pay for the nearly $50,000 of damages and the bridge operator blamed the problem on the skipper of the boat. The legal battle raged for over 6 years and actually went all the way to the U.S. Supreme Court before it was ruled that Savannah (Chatham County) was not entitled to sovereign immunity, and therefore responsible for all damages.

(Click here for video of passing under Causton Bluff Drawbridge)

As the ICW winds through pristine salt marshes with its cordgrass gracefully blowing in the wind, most boaters are unaware that they are witnessing one of the world's greatest ecosystems and estuaries. Georgia's coastline contains almost one third of the total saltwater marshes of the entire Atlantic coast. Originally formed by melting glaciers, the tidal pools or lagoons formed behind a series of barrier islands and contain a mixture of salt and fresh water.

Few plants can survive in such a hostile environment, but the smooth cordgrass actually flourishes here. Immortalized in the poem "The Marshes of Glynn," author Sidney Lanier captured the marvel of the marshes in word, perhaps better than even pictures can reveal, as he sought to give strength and encouragement to his fellow Southerners following the destruction of their country in the War Between the States. The marshes have been called the cradle of the sea and often stretch along Georgia's coast from horizon to horizon.

The Wilmington River enters the Savannah River at Elba Island to the southeast of Savannah. Elba Island is owned by Southern Liquid Natural Gas (SLNG) and used as a receiving terminal for providing domestic storage to international producers of LNG. The facility has a capacity of 11.5 billion cubic feet and is connected to four major pipelines that service the southeast and mid-Atlantic markets.

After exiting the Elba Island Cut into the Savannah River at ICW Mile 576 there are still eight miles to travel upriver before reaching River Street and downtown Savannah, and this can prove to be the most challenging stretch of the trip. Savannah is ranked as the fourth busiest seaport in North America, and seaport means ships - big ships! You don't need a navigation class to figure out that the Savannah River is the only water artery connecting the massive shipping terminals at Garden City, just above Savannah with the ocean.

Upon entering the Savannah River the prudent boater looks left and right and prays not to see a ship. However, being a major seaport means you are going to either meet or be passed by one or more ships when sailing this stretch of the Savannah River - without fail! The rules of navigation here are fairly simple - get out of the way.

As soon as the ship's pilot spots your boat ahead, he hails you on the radio and advises which way he will pass, and which side of the channel you are to favor. Since ROMA only draws 6 feet, I move beyond the channel into water around 15-20 feet in depth. I figure the "big boy" can't get me because it's too shallow for him. Actually it's all very safe, but still a bit of a white knuckle time.

The ships actually create very little wake, but the turbulence caused by the propellers and natural river current can be extreme. Once, after a ship passed, we moved back to center channel too soon and were caught in this turbulence. It is unnerving to have your boat whipped around as if the sea gods are taking their vengeance out on you. The lesson learned from this experience was to avoid the prop wash by not following directly in a ship's path.

Approaching River Street is a busy and exciting time with water taxis, riverboat cruises, cargo ships, tug boats, tall ships, and recreational boats all vying for a safe course and formulating docking plans. There are no full service marinas serving the downtown Savannah Riverfront, but the area is serviced by four independently managed parallel docks. The City of Savannah operates a municipal dock at the center of River Street, River Street Market Place operates a private dock on the lower end of River Street, and two docks are operated by the Hyatt and Westin Hotels on either side of the river.

The Savannah City docks are more centrally located than the other facilities and offer free daytime dockage unless an American Cruise Lines ship is scheduled to arrive. These 250' small cruise ships are now visiting Savannah once a week, and travel the ICW calling on historic coastal ports of call such as Charleston, Beaufort, Savannah, Jekyll Island, and Fernandina.

We opted to stay at the Hyatt Hotel Dock, which has better overnight accommodations for cruisers than the City Docks or Market Street Docks. Before reaching River Street we were joined by a second sailboat, our friends Joe and Pat Brasfield on SABRINA, who departed from Sail Harbor Marina on Wilmington Island. Neither the Hyatt Hotel, nor any of the facilities on River Street have a dedicated dockmaster on duty, so boaters are usually on their own to negotiate docking.

Docking in a strong current is always challenging, so we prefer to motor past a given docking area prior to actually making our final approach. This allows us to test the current, determine how much throttle will be needed, and also gauge the available space on the dock. We decided ahead of time that SABRINA should dock first since she was the larger vessel. This would allow her skipper maximum docking area for maneuvering.

Once safely tied up at the downriver end of the dock, Joe, would assist me since I was docking in a a more confined area between SABRINA and another sailboat on the upriver end of the dock. The plan worked perfectly, and in short order both boats were safely tied along the Hyatt Hotel Dock.

SABRINA is a first generation Hinckley Bermuda 40, hull #11, and in the world of sailing the Bermuda 40 is a legendary boat. The Bermuda 40 is a Bill Trippe, Jr. design and considered by sailing purists as the one of the most classic sailboats of all time. At the very least SABRINA is major eye candy for everyone who appreciates the beauty of a sailboat. ROMA, a Seafarer 29, is a McCurdy/Rhodes design and not a slouch in the classic sailboat category, so we caused quite a stir among the tourists on River Street.

River Street is Savannah's version of Mallory Square in Key West. Marketed as Savannah's Riverfront - The Way to Experience Savannah, visitors are greeted with an array of shops, restaurants, historical landmarks, land and water tours, and nightlife - all against the backdrop of a very busy seaport as cargo ships pass just a few hundred feet from the crowded walkways. This is where the rich history of Georgia's oldest city meets the reality of the 21 century.

Two tall ships, the PEACEMAKER and ROSEWAY call Savannah their homeport for parts of the year and add greatly to the ambiance of River Street. PEACEMAKER is a 124' Barquentine built on the riverbanks of Brazil in 1989. Her original owner and designer was a wealthy Brazilian industrialist who envisioned sailing the Caribbean with his family. His initial voyage in the South Atlantic proved more challenging than his vision and the ship was docked at Palmer Johnson's in Savannah until purchased by the Twelve Tribes religious group in 2000. PEACEMAKER offers a seagoing representation of the life of peace and unity of the group and also provides opportunities for their youth to learn many valuable and practical skills, not only in rigging, sail-making, sailing, navigation, but also in marine mechanics and carpentry. While docked in Savannah, PEACEMAKER is open for free tours on most days.

ROSEWAY is a 137' pilot schooner built in 1925 for the specific purpose of beating the Nova Scotians in the international fishing vessel races of the 1920s and 1930s. The ROSEWAY was the last pilot schooner in the United States when she was retired in 1973, and the last Grand Banks schooner built in Essex. ROSEWAY is a registered U.S. National Historic Landmark. She travels annually between her winter and summer ports in St. Croix and Boston, and spends six weeks in Savannah twice a year during the transitional voyages. While docked in Savannah at the Westin Hotel ROSEWAY is available for private events and conducts paid tours on the Savannah River with proceeds going to the World Ocean School organization to support under-served youth in the local community.

Our first trip to River Street was a great success, and on our return voyage to our home marinas we were already planning the next trip on New Years Eve. Savannah and her River Front have extended Southern hospitality to seafarers and tourists for hundreds of years. Her streets, paved with ballast stones from ancient sailing ships, provide a connection with the maritime past that is undeniable.

Over 12 million visitors are attracted to the city annually, and most come face to face with the rich history at Savannah's Riverfront. River Street was once the financial and commercial center of the city as tall sailing ships loaded goods such as cotton, indigo, and rice headed for ports around the world.

Through two devastating fires, occupation by foreign armies in the Revolutionary War and War of Northern Aggression, epidemics, and hurricanes Savannah has always proven to be resilient. Most of the original stores and warehouses between Bay & River Street have been preserved and today River Street is now the centerpiece of Savannah's $2 billion annual tourism industry.

Cruisers traveling the ICW will find Savannah an interesting and unique stopover on their travels. In addition to staying at one of the River Street docks, boaters can also lay over at one of the full service marinas in Thunderbolt where easy day trips can be made by boat, car, or tour bus. Boats traveling offshore can access the Savannah River inlet at Tybee Roads, but need to be alert for strong currents and major ship traffic. Cruisers traveling north will find it more advisable to enter Wassaw Sound to the Wilmington River and Thunderbolt.

Savannah and her waterways are beckoning the casual cruiser looking for a taste of history and a good dose of Southern hospitality. Most visitors to Georgia's oldest city come back time and time again. Odds are Savannah will become a regular stop on any cruiser's itinerary after their first visit.

(Click here for pictures of ROMA & SABRINA Sailing to River Street - Savannah, GA)