St. Barts
02 May 2008
We gladly left St. Martin on Tuesday(April something) after spending a small fortune. It was hard being anchored in the lagoon, it was blazing hot during the day and the kids couldn't swim because of boat traffic and water cleanliness. So after provisioning the boat full of wonderful stinky french cheese and cheap french wine we pulled anchor and O drove us through the infamous bridge.
That night we anchored off of the bridge. It has always been, and continues to be, a miserable rolly anchorage. It was very uncomfortable. Someday Came were anchored near us and invited us for dinner. We thought we were rolling, but it was NOTHING compared to them. That night was an anxious night for all. O and I had finally had enough and pulled anchor around four am to where, we didn't quite know.
We had wanted to go to Barbuda, but the wind was not cooperating so we turned off and headed to St. Barth's. It was a wonderful decision. We picked up a free mooring off of Columbier beach, took the kids to the beach and after lunch we all went down for a nap. When we awoke and went out on deck we saw Someday Came and Uliad were we next to us! The wind wasn't cooperating for anyone. St. Barth's was just what the dr ordered, we all stayed for four great days. Everyday I went for long swims with HUGE sea turtles swimming beneath me. The beach was nice, the water warm and the overall feel was relaxed. I love St. Barth's.
Caroline celebrated her eleventh birthday on the 26th. In celebration, the girls had a morning of shopping in the St. Tropez of the Carribean.....tres chic! Shopping in St. Barts is the best. Expensive.....very, but the clothes are beautiful, creative, vibrant and elegant...Caribbean, French chic. Although I was priced out of everything it was fun walking around the stores.
After shopping we went for lunch at a French restaurant near the harbor. It felt cool to be in the jet sett environment. Hey, as I have always said...'if you can't be one...then pose' St. Barth's has changed a lot since my day, but it has still retained it's overall charm and sex appeal.
An interesting note. When we cleared in we were told that it would cost forty euros, which just about killed me because we didn't clear in until the day before we were to leave, so they thought we were only staying 48 hours. I didn't have any money with me so I told them I would return the next day. When I returned, I was told that I only owed only 20 euros so I said I would go to the bank and come back. When I returned later that afternoon, I was charged EIGHT euros.....strange how it all depends on the person and their mood that day. Kathy had to pay 16 euros at the end when she had been told previously she owed eight... Now had I come back the next day I wonder if I would have been charged at all.
The next day we decided it was time to make a move. Yet another north swell was coming and we wanted to be in either Antigua or Barbuda...the illusive...
We dropped the mooring bright and early and made our way for Antigua, however, the wind was again not on our side so we fell off and headed to Nevis.
I have never been a fan of the island of Nevis, but it was better than slogging it out. Plus, my sister spent her honeymoon there so I was a little nostalgic about that. We arrived around three o clock and picked up a mooring. They put mooring balls along the entire beach so you have to pick one up which usually means $. Anyway, it was Sunday there was no price listed on the ball, customs was closed so we launched our dinghy and made our way to the beach.
The swell on the beach made it tricky to bring the dinghy in. Once we got the dinghy anchored on the beach O went to Sunshine's beach shack for libations. The kids had their first Ting and O and I an 'Emerald of the Carribean'...the mini Heineken. We sat back and watched a huge tourist Catamaran try to beach their boat, unsuccessfully. They then picked up a mooring and dinghied people back and forth, which was entertaining. Their dinghy was small and underpowered especially for the beach swell. They always overloaded the dinghy and would then come in stern to trying to outrun the swell. We watched that thing buck into the swell and consistently get water logged. I don't think their guests had any idea how close they came to capsizing. It was great TV.
Anyway, as we were sitting there waiting for the next load, a rasta man came by, I stopped him and casually asked if he knew the price of the mooring. He said he didn't know and called over a woman, who also said she didn't know, but told us to hold on. She then picked up her cell phone and called CUSTOMS!!!! Who does that?? She talked to someone on the phone who wanted to talk to us!! Yikes! Keep in mind there are crazy, hefty fees for going ashore without clearing in!!! She handed the phone to Otis, I swear I thought he was going to kill me. He told the guy that we had cleared customs, as he was giving me the crazy, I am going to kill you death eyes, at some other place in Nevis. The guy told him he would send a patrol boat out asap. Once O got off the phone and a short and sweet 'discussion' ensued of which I apologized profusely. We then had to devise a plan.
The patrol boat did not know the name of our boat. So, if they came out we would say that we did not call them and we were off the boat because we were in town trying to clear customs, not sitting on the beach at Sunshines. Meanwhile, we sat on the beach and waited....nobody ever came. THANK GOD. I have now adopted the 'don't EVER ask policy....'
While this drama was ensuing our friends on Uliad arrived. They joined us on the beach (without clearing customs) where we had sundowners. Their boat was rolling around quite a bit so we invited them for dinner. We had pasta pancetta, nice wine and wonderful conversation.
We left bright and early the next morning, never even having cleared in and made our way to Antigua!!!!! Finally.