.. Our little 16 passenger plane landed on a strip straight out of
South Pacific, including bomb craters on the tarmac. Jen assured me
(& I thought at first it was a joke ) that this was a modern village;
the huts were primitive, the outhouses went directly into the ocean &
John would have been booking into the first flight out. I was
entranced. Our first stop was a school which had internet, a small cement facility, somewhat incongruous in the setting. Jen did some business, & we were off. Interesting note: The cafe was run by a Kuna Albino,whom the locals call Moon Children, & it turns out Kunas have the highest rate of Albinos in the world something like 1 in 134.
Anyway, soon we were off to Green Island, where we anchored for the night.
Green Island was deserted, pristine, white sands and gorgeous. We took the tender, made a huge bonfire and had a dinner under the blackest starstrewn sky I have ever seen! I immediately identified the Southern Cross! Alas, if only we had been in the southern hemisphere.
The Next morning, the 'French Lady' rowed up to show her wares. She makes gorgeous jewelry& lives in a quaint, vintage wooden sailboat. Jenny & I were practically bidding against each other! I swear the Kuna drums must have smelled fresh blood; next up was Valencio, Master Mola maker Jenny had told him I was coming & he had rowed 8 miles to greet me!
Given that I have a hard time saying no, I had been dreading this
moment, but $140 later we were both pleased, and as Jenny has said for years, you really never can have too many molas. He was only the first of many Kuna capitalists in canoes, they came often, with many crafts.
Later that day, we sailed to the Coco's, another gorgeous island, where Otis entertained Ben & Sam with rides on their giant innertube. Two shy Kuna girls emerged, & accepted rides. It was great to see them all playing together. Their father, who had given permission, later brought fresh fish as a gift, & came aboard with the whole family that evening for dinner, the mom wearing traditional Kuna wear & a ring in her nose, the dad in an Obama t-shirt. Not your normal dinner party. The girls loved watching Ben's DVDs! Later that week, as we island hopped, we landed on Vernacio's island, which was very traditional. He took us on a tour of his one room house (fish were drying over the fire & his pop was asleep in a hammock). His brother was carving boats, which we bought, & his neighbors were selling jewelry & scarves, ditto. Ben & Sam were running around with the kids, & there was nary an electrical
outlet in the whole place. That night J&O & the boys had fresh sushi,
adventures in dining, God love' em. Later in the week we snorkeled overthe wreck of a rumrunner, absolutely gorgeous & teeming with coral &tropical fish, and later in barracuda bay, which was as advertised. I am so blind, I had to get within about two feet to see them, but no danger, really. Ben is a magnificent snorkeler and swimmer & can identify fish and coral in a heartbeat. I never cease to be amazed.
One day, we took the dinghy up a river, tied up amidst a bunch of Kuna canoes and hiked inland. The Indians were there, gathering bananas& coconuts and getting fresh water, as well as doing laundry. Thewere carrying their loads on sticks balanced over their shoulders. As they walked through the jungle, we noticed they all wore hip boots, a wise move, indeed! When in Kunalandâ�'�¦That night, Jen & I motored to an island for sundowners to watch the sunset amidst balmy ocean breezes (does this sound hokey or what, but it's true), while O & the guys baked her a birthday cake & rustled up a banquet. Later we laid on the fore ( or aft, whatever) deck & looked at the stars, & Ben taught his old Gram a thing or two about constellations as well. I still can't tell a prairie dog from a ground hog. Jen had a great birthday, still, looking a full
10 years younger than her true age, whatever that is.
The next day, we sailed off to ' the Swimming Pool' a string of islands where cruisers gather to snorkel, socialize, do laundry (there is a fresh water well of sorts, & yes, they do it with their feet). I met some great people in a series of potlucks & organized Sundowners; got to see Ben & Sam play with French, British & Australian kids and whipped through four books. I also learned what a small world it is. There was a doctor there from Maine who had worked with Otiss' Mom. Lotsa picnics, in fact, one
island is called Potluck Island . And have I mentioned what a great cookJenny is? I can say with all honesty, and I KNOW that no one in my family will contradict me, that I do not know where she gets it. Jenny is a fabulous chef! She makes bread daily and whips up wonderfulappetizers. Her menus are creative and fun. All this & smart, funny &gorgeous (despite those nasty barbs aimed at me, her mother). Might I add that she's quite the hit with the cruisers???
Anyway, after I really got to know everyone, we were off to Portobello, an 8-hour tour at sea for which I was totally unprepared, bringing new meaning to the term " nausea "..noting the word 'sea' I cannot even imagine a 21 day crossing. During this journey, ( " are we there yet?" ) Otis caught two giant Tunas, eating a piece raw for my benefit (thanks, O!)
Finally, finally, we arrived in Portabello, a Spanish-style fishing village & home of three abandoned forts, the famous Black Jesus, and sea burial place of Sir Francis Drake (who knew?). We motored ashore & ate at theonly open cantina for chicken & chips, where Sam did his best to feed the dogs who were lounging on the dirt floors next to us. They were most grateful, however the senora was not. Sammy is muy generoso.
The next day we explored the town, the church & the Black Jesus statue and a museum. We had real hamburgers in a French hostel, where the boys played with a parrot, & a monkey sat on my head (& only later did I think about the lice factor). Finally, it was off to the Marina at Shelter Bay, where we saw the entrance to the Canal, & giant tankers generally just lolling about, waiting to enter, etc.
It was difficult to say goodbye, especially to Ben & Sam, who would begin each day with a gentle tap tap tap on my cabin door " Banya, are you awake???" , I am truly blessed, and cannot wait to join these wayfarers again, but guys, 21 days on the roiling seas???????????