After spending the first few weeks of our stay in Columbia in the coastal regions we decided it was time to go inland. We settled on Bogota and the Cafetera region to its south west which we had heard is quite beautiful. We wanted to see some of the country but were reluctant to spend 18-20 hrs in a bus getting from Santa Marta to Bogota and so arranged to fly to Bogota then take a bus to Solento and return to Santa Marta by flying from Peirera via Bogota - we changed the final flight to Cartegena then bused back to Santa Marta when we heard we would need to return to Australia in September and so would not sail to Cartegena as originally planned.

We packed light but with warm clothes for Bogota which is at 2700 metres. Our first step was a 2 hr bus ride with Marisol (a door to door service) to Baranquilla which sits on the giant Rio de Magdelena and is the major industrial city on the Caribbean coast. Its outskirts are a mad confusion of dust, trucks and myriads of vendors selling tools, fasteners, fabrics, plastics, machines, internet, photocopies, stationary - you could buy anything there. We stayed downtown in leafy streets with supermarkets and restaurants - Baranquilla has an established middle eastern population and some good restaurants with a middle eastern flavour (we enjoyed our meal at the Lebanese "Arabe Gourmet").

Bogota



The following morning we flew from Baranquilla to Bogota and took a taxi from the airport to our B&B hotel in La Candelaria. We had heard and read stories about bad taxi experiences but we used the official taxi service at the airport and found it inexpensive and easy. There is a yellow taxi kiosk to the left as you exit the airport. Give them the address of your hotel/hostel and they will print a voucher with the price. You give this to the taxi driver as well as the address.

We stayed at Hotel Chorro de Quevedo which is on Calle 12B and right in the heart of the Bohemian section of La Candelaria. Its a slightly edgy area with a colourful history of gangsters and crime but it is alive with artists, students, restaurants and music - we loved it. Chorro de Quevedo is a quirky B&B over 4 floors. It was originally a brothel for transvestites [if only those walls could talk] and, Massimo, its Italian born owner, has an eclectic taste in furnishing which means there is something to gaze at or explore in every corner.

Our first afternoon was spent wandering the area. Everywhere the walls are covered in elaborate graffiti and paintings. The walls themselves painted rich ochres, terracotta, whites and blacks. Small shops sell sweets and pastries. Street vendors offer freshly made sugared preztels or potato crisps, intriguing stews with pimento, fruits, nuts and fresh juices.

It was Sunday and so the main streets around the city were closed and given over to cyclists and the public to stroll, meet, eat, and watch the many buskers. In the evening we stopped at Rosettas restaurant in Quevedo Square - a popular place for students - and sat and watched the comics perform to an audience of onlookers, while in the background others made attempts at walking a tight rope, or listened to guitar players and bongo drums and people watched.

Our next day was spent at the bank. Not our preference but we have had difficulty with withdrawing money from the cash machines in Columbia and have had to go to cashiers in the bank. In Santa Marta this was straightforward in Bogota it was more difficult - but we got there. The next day was a public holiday - a common phenomenon in Columbia - to celebrate the battle of Boyaca when Columbia won its independence from Spain. Once again the roads were closed and we wandered the city and then took the funicular to the top of Mt Monserrat to view the city. On a neigbouring mountain is a statue of Christ - a smaller version of the one in Rio de Janeiro.

Catedral de Sal



Our final day we headed to La Catedral de Sal which is about 2 hrs north of Bogota by buses. We used the TransMilenio which is a rapid transit bus to Portal Norte on the outer edges of the city and then hopped on the local bus to Zipaquira - another hrs ride. Once again straightforward and modern and while the return buses were very crowded, it was no different to being on public transport in any other city during peak hour.

The cathedral is spectacular. Originally inspired by a modest shrine built by salt miners, the main shaft has been turned into a gallery of symbols depicting the 14 stations of the cross, each lit with changing hues of blue, white, and magenta. The catherdral itself is vast and together with the galleries can carry 8000 tourists at any one time. On our day there were only 250 and the place felt empty. The mine away from the cathedral is still active and its salt is used mainly in industry. There is also an Ozi presence in the structure. Eucalyptus wood is used in the tunnel supports because of its resistance to salt corrosion. Outside, the mine complex is surrounded by a forest of eucalypts.

Solento



Next morning we took an early taxi to the Terminal de Transporte to catch the 8am Bolivariano express to Amenia in the Cafetera region - we finally left at 9am not on the G2 (wifi, movies etc) but on an everyday 70 seat bus with two drivers. The early stages of the 8hr trip are mostly flat and rural but the latter half twists and winds through steep mountainous country. Our 2nd driver thought he was Michael Schumacher and belted down the mountainsides at white knuckle speed, dodging around trucks and buses, narrowly missing head-ons. Paul spent half the trip trip trying to film it.

From Amenia we took another bus to Solento and then a taxi to our hostel La Serrana which is about 15mins walk from the town. We arrived before dusk to a bucolic landscape and a "family" dinner for 13. Solento is a small town arranged around a central square. Its a popular weekend spot for Columbians and known for its trout and gigantic patacon (a flattened deep fried plantain) as well as for coffee and its proximity to the Valle de Cocora with its 60 meter wax palms. We had two meals of trout and patacon and then couldn't eat it again which was difficult because 99% of the restaurants serve this or beans and meat so we reverted to Ramen noodles on the last night.

Our plan in Solento was to chill and we did a bit of this but I couldn't resist a short hike through the Valle de Cocora (with Paul in thongs that's all it was ever going to be - certainly the 5 hr hike around the valley was out of the question). We walked into town just after 9am to catch a jeep to the valley and arrived about 15 minutes later with our dozen companions. We had discovered on the way that the cocora were mostly at the end of the 5 hr hike so you could backtrack without having to walk the entire route. The other alternative was to ride horses for the first hour then walk the remaining track. We had planned horse riding and a coffee plantation visit the next day so we set off up the hill in the opposite direction to everyone else. At the top of the hill there is a black wooden gate with white tips and a narrow easement onto farm land. The entire area is scattered with wax palms but it is not until you walk among them that you get a sense of their height.

Our last day we spent the morning riding horses to a small coffee planation run by Don Elias. Our guide Omar tested my Spanish with his amiable commentary on the area, its produce, and geography. I was pleased that I understood about half of what he said and managed to construct some questions and comments of my own which he understood. This trip has improved my Spanish and Paul now understands quite a bit although he doesn't speak it often. Omar's horses are well behaved but responsive and a delight to ride and Don Elias ensures you understand the growing and production process of coffee, as well as correcting your pronunciation. His coffee is delicious.

Cartegena



Another early morning taxi into town and bus ride to Periera - a city of 1 million people. It was foggy and raining and flights were delayed from Bogota because of bad weather. This worked in our favour since Lan had sent a message to say that our flight to Bogota had been cancelled and we had been scheduled on a flight at 8pm - 2 hrs after our flight from Bogota to Cartegena! A feat only H D Wells can imagine. As it turned out we arrived in Cartegena at 4.30, four hours before we had planned. The same taxi scheme as Bogota was available in Cartegena and we had our bags down at Hotel el Viajero in 20 minutes. El Viajero was pretty ordinary compared to our other accommodation. The room is a dark cell with an ensuite but it does have cable tv if you want it. Still, we were there to see Cartegena and the staff were very pleasant and helpful and it cost only 70,000 pesos per night for a hotel situated in Centro so not too bad.

The old city of Cartegena is georgeous. Its architecture colonial Spanish with frequent squares and balconies everywhere. But, its a tourist city and the touting can become tiring and it is very expensive. It was well worth the visit and we managed to catch up with Sue and Andy on Spruce before they left for the San Blas Islands. Their experiences with docking and anchoring in Cartegena made us glad we were not going to sail there.

Our final leg was by bus again using Marisol's door to door service to Santa Marta. Not a pleasant trip this one. We were in the back seats which sit over the luggage so no leg room at all. We were very glad to get to the marina and then in the evening to sit unaccosted in our favourite Parque de los Novios.

LINK TO PHOTOS