Well, we survived our 'composted' vegetable pasta, and we are still out here, bobbing about in the doldrums, in between dodging rain squalls and thunderstorms. We have become like glider pilots, seeking out the thunderheads so we can surf along side their air flows, relishing the 10-15k side winds from a safe distance until they peter out and we are becalmed again. Yesterday, after a very quiet night, we woke to another day of no wind, the calm quiet magnificence of the truly Pacific Ocean stretching away into the distance. Skip Tone had been wanting to check on a rattle near the propeller in case we had picked up an errant fishing line and it had got wrapped around the drive shaft, so over the side he went, soon surfacing with a pleased smile to say all was well. Next it was my turn to lower myself into the clean but not cool oceanic waters, 4 kilometres deep beneath our keel. It was a breath taking moment as I steeled myself to overcome a somewhat irrational fear of how absurdly deep it is, willing myself to think of something other than a great white shark appearing out of nowhere to chomp off my ridiculously small white legs and feet. The blueness and the clarity of the water is stunningly incredible. Tony had seen little fish swimming under the boat when he was in, but there was nothing but the bluest blue water visible t hrough my mask.

With the propeller shaft given the all clear, and feeling that we had paid our dues to the doldrums with over 12 hours of zero boat speed, we fired up the engine for a few hours - the rattle no longer evident. We are now 270NM from Tarawa, ETA slightly put back by the calms, but still looking good for the weekend. Conservatively, allowing for the currents, which we have been told are quite strong the closer we get to Kiribati, we could motor the last 150-200NM with the diesel we have on board, but keen to sail IM in if possible.

Late afternoon thunderstorms yesterday created sailable winds which have held now for over 18 hours and we are making 5-6 kts on a beam reach - its been so enjoyable I have got a fresh batch of yogourt made, mung beans sprouting, and Tony's been busy making fresh bread! I even found some more beer and a bottle of wine to put in the fridge ready for equatorial and arrival celebrations. If this keeps up I may be tempted to bake a cake! We will pass reasonably close to Banaba-Ocean Island later tonight, so hoping the moon will let us see at least the silhouette.

Sending you all happy Xmas thoughts, Andy and Tony