Fun in Funafuti
16 June 2014 | 08 31.477'S:179 11.432'E, Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu
Andy
Talofa! We finally arrived at anchor at Funafuti Atoll, off the township of Fongafale, the capital of Tuvalu on Sunday at 5.30 pm. It was a strenous sail into the lagoon after two days of exhausting tacking into the strong easterly winds and current. Throughout the whole passage from Tarawa winds were not as predicted, as activity over New Zealand and strong winds around Fiji disrupted the normal trade winds. We were close hauled all the way and at times lost VMG (velocity made good) as we tacked to get more easting. Our total mileage covered on the trip was 1212 nm, with the straight line rhumb of 717 meaning we sailed another 495 miles to get here! No wonder it took 16 days instead of the 7-10 we anticipated.
Now that we are here, we are very glad we came, not only to get a rest, and escape the 25-30kt winds that kicked in on Friday and were still blowing strong yesterday (Monday), but also to see first hand how tenous this tiny nation's existence is. The tidal range is reasonably high, making it more susceptible to increased king tides and swell from the persistent trades. We have not yet been able to officially check in to immigration and customs, because, as we found out when we finally straggled ashore yesterday and found the immigration office shut, there is a two day public holiday break here to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the national choir. We had heard the beautiful singing wafting over the lagoon, and once ashore found the township abuzz with activity. Local folk were whizzing around on their scooters and pushbikes on the SEALED roads, with street signs and mown grass verges. Quite a change from Tarawa. It is also much cooler, the 8 degrees of latitud e south of the equator really noticeable, along with the cooler ocean temperatures. It is officially winter time I guess, although I am sure most parts of NZ and Southern Australia would love to have this balmy warm weather in winter.
First impressions of the Tuvaluan people are that they seem shyer and more reserved than the I-Kiribati, but very friendly once you break the ice. The overall level of English also seems better, and the housing, while somewhat dilapated is mainly permanent and less traditional, with very few thatched rooves. We went for a long walk along the island to Customs and Quarantine at the port, but they too were closed for the holiday. It was wonderful to stretch our legs, despite the numerous rain squalls along the way, and one scary interaction with a dog!
After a delicious early tea of fish and chips we dinghied back to IM, getting caught in another 5 minute downpour, arriving back at the boat soaked but ready for another early night to catch up on sleep. Today we hope to get some internet connection (otherwise you won't be reading this!) and start getting weather info for next leg to Lautoka in Fiji. Funafuti is very narrow, with the airstrip running right down the middle of the atoll. At some points you can see both the lagoon and the open ocean from the road. As we watched the amazingly blue breakers crashing onto the reef in the 30kt winds we were very happy to be safe at anchor. More soon, hope your week going well. PS Happy belated birthdays Brenda and Robyn, was thinking of you!