Ironie's Pacific Adventures

I don't know if anyone out there is still following my adventure as I have blatantly
neglected updating my blog for a very long time.....but I will Try to do my best to catch up and fill in
the time in between.Right now,Ironie is swinging on a mooring in Majuro,Marshall Islands.
Yup,back in Majuro!I will back up a bit and let you know how i ended up back here.
At the last blog update i was in Vanuatu involved with project M.A.R.C.,the medical assistance
organization,and was waiting for one of their doctors,Sue Lin,and an Alvaie crew member,Frank to show up in Port Villa
so i could get them up to the Maskeline Islands for a clinic there.Frank showed up first.Frank is an ex-cop from Aussie.
At our first meeting we had to double check each other and realized we had met at the Beachfront Resort in Santo
a few months earlier.Small world huh?...When we had first chatted Frank had told me that he was retired and wante to figure out
a way to constructively spend his time off.He'd also met Seamus at the Beachfront and been turned
on to Project M.A.R.C. and crewing on Alvaie.Frank is a real likeable guy and you really start to
like him more when he keeps buying you cold gin and tonics!Frank is a major force to be reckoned
with for sure and would keep us all well juiced and laughing for the next month or so. Doctor Sue Lin showed up the next day but
Air Vanuatu had decided to misplace her essential luggage.SueLin isn't your stock doctor type.She is about 5'9" young and beautiful and "built"...lol...!!Should be a fun crew!At this point there wasn't much to do
but move on to Ironie and start the party until her bags showed.I sailed Ironie from the busy Vila anchorage a few miles west to the Hideaway
anchorage near Mele Village where Frank and SueLin would come aboard.It is a much more pleasant place to while away a few days.I had already
spent a bit of time anchored there and gotten to know the local hangouts.there is a upmarket hotel on "hideaway"
island just a few hundred meters from the main island as well as the Barefoot Beach Bar just opposite "Hideaway island "where they have very cold beer
and amazing Pizza which they cook in a wood fire oven!Super Yummm!!I had sailed to the anchorage
unassisted and in a stiff breeze.I was surprised to see about a dozen yachts in the usually nearly empty anchorage.They were from
a rally that had come from New Caledonia the week before.I also spotted some friends there on "Samba".I came into the anchorage
under sail to the amazement of the ralliers.I sailed right between them came up into the wind, ran forward,dropped the anchor,and backwinded the mainsail to set
the anchor.I don't think the rally folks had ever seen anyone do that before and i got alot of complements later from them.I said,"doesn't
everyone do it like that?"haha ...I'm such a smart ass sometimes...
Frank and SueLin showed up the next day to get acquainted with Ironie and drink some G&Ts (supplied By good ol ex-copper Frank!)and wait for SueLin's bags to show.
We had a good ol time watching Mike from the Barefoot Bar playing with his new toy,a flying dinghy!
Thats right,a Freakin' flyin' dinghy!!I saw it with my own eyes taking off and landing!Imagine a hang glider lashed to the top of a 16 ft dinghywith an engine and propeller slapped on the ass-end
and you get the idea.They told me it can go up to 10,000 feet and has a range of over 200 miles!Crazy stuff!Anyway it was good entertainment
if a bit noisy.After 2 days of fun in the sun at Hideaway,SueLins bags showed up with the
spare parts and coffee maker requested by Seamus, Alvaie and crew as well as some medical supplies of course.
So off we Sailed heading out of Mele Bay West past"Devils Point".which has a wicked reputation for rough confused seas.We had light conditions so Devils Point wasn't a worry.We passed
the SW point of Efate Island and started on our course to the Maskelines.It was apparent that
Ironie was blessed with a crack crew.Frank was nicknamed "The Optimizer"for his penchant for trimming sails,his eyes always aloft maximizing sail shape.
For an overnight sail it was quite eventful.First off,it was SueLins birthday which Frank wore a bowtie for.Next, as we were
approaching the pass into Maskelines we heard on the radio that there was yet another Tsunami warning for Vanuatu.Luckily
we were safe at sea,the best place to be if a tsunami should strike.So,we just slowed the boat down
and waited for the dangerous time to pass.as we got underway with no apparent tsunami we caught a Dorado or MahiMahi.It was a beautiful fish and Frank did the
dirty work of the kill as i couldn't quite do it and his backround as a cop made im the likely choice.SueLin reminded us that Mahi-Mahi mate for life which made
the killing so much easier,thanks SueLin!So Into the pass toward Sakao Island we sailed and were greeted by our happy friends on Alvaie.Ironie had a real challenge to anchor as there was another boat in the anchorage
and there is only room for one boat at reasonable depth and not on coral.Alvaie was anchored in the deep water.I had planned to use the Project M.A.R.C. mooring but it was nowhere to be found.I decided to anchor in a far from ideal spot and try to figure out what to do.
Seamus thought the mooring had floated away but I wasn't sure of this and thought we should look for it under the water.Sure enough there it was about 6 ft below the surface.it seemed the barrel the mooring was tied to
had filled partially with water and made it sink.we decided to work on it and get it in shape to use.Seamus,Frank and Jay did most of the work I stayed aboard Ironie with SueLin and Misha the 2 cuties of the bunch.After
some time and cussing Seamus and crew had the mooring back in working order and Ironie safely tied on!AHHH ,time to have a SueLin birthday party!!WOOOHOOO!!
As coincidence would have it,the was a cultural arts festival going on on the island just South of Sakao.It was the Maskeline Islands Cultural Arts Festival.Project M.A.R.C. was going to have a clinic on the festival
grounds.We could be helpful and have some fun too!The festival involved all the different tribal areas on Malakula Island. where Maskelnes are a very close neighbor.On Malakula,there used to be wars between 2 tribes,the "Big Nambas"and "Little Nambas".Namba is a penis sheath worn by natives all through out Vanuatu.The Big Nambas used to be some bad-ass boys on Malakula kicking the asses of the Little Nambas and occasionally eating them.
they were the last cannibals in Vanuatu,logging in the last meal of missionary stew somewhere in the late 1960's so there's still quite a few who remember the taste...yummmm!! anyway,all is technically forgiven from the old days but I think they still trip each other out..
The festival grounds were set in a big field with trees surrounding and the sea in the distance.

We would see singing and dancing all in traditional garb and body paints.
Really cool stuff,right up my ally.On the first day of the festival,we took project M.A.R.C.'s "Ribster" super-dinghy from our anchorage in Sakao to the festival,about 5 miles away.We got the clinic up and going.We even had our stretchers just in case one of the dancers got mashed or the Big Nambas and Little Nambas decided to go at it again for old times sake.The first day of the festival was pretty
unorganised and when things did get going it was alot of "welcome this" "welcome that "and speech making.There was a warning speech to everyone not to be scared of the different kustoms they would see.no body was out to hurt anyone it was just a performance.people take their magik and kustom very seriously here.they did get a bit of dancing in at the end.Day 2 was much more fun with 5 or 6 different dancing groups.There were substantial
time in between performances as each group took the dancing very seriously and there were alot of preparation and getting thier mojo on and such.
It was very diverse in dancing and what the dancers wore.(Check out pics in the Vanuatu /Duff Islands section on my blog pics,It is in a sub-folder in the Vanuatu section).This was the day that the Big Nambas would perform.There was a hushed anticipation as to what they would do.Their group was the most serious looking of the bunch.They reminded me of P&G people,not exactly
happy go lucky types.As the group came out and did a monotonous,repetitious chant they built it up for nearly half an hour and then this incrediblly body painted, from head to toe man came bursting out and did a very sexual/violent dance with lots of nervous energy.it was really amazing stuff.Everyone was pretty floored!There was one more group after the Big Nambas but I'd say they would be hard to follow.Day 3 I paddled my kayak to the festival in a big rushing current that runs between the islands,a real thrill-ride.Once at the festival grounds there was more dancing,food and fun.by the way, they had a great spread of food everyday
lots of local veggies,fish and of course,pig.good stuff!!The clinic went well and no one had more than minor injuries.After the festivities it was time for Ironie and I to go solo again and say goodbye to Alvaie and crew.Alvaie was going to go up the west side of Malakula and I would go up the Windward,East side.We would see each other in Santo in a week or so.I stayed once more in Banam Bay for a few days Then stopped at Akamb Island on the Northeast coast
Akamb had a crap anchorage but it was a cool island with lots of deep kustom.When I finally got in at Santo at the all too familiar Beachfront Anchorage.There were my buds on Alvaie having just arrived a few hours earlier.I was happy to see every one and we had a big welcome.It was now getting late in the season and I was making plans to head notrh.I had kept in contact with Dani from the yacht Caca Fuego.She had expressed interest to crew on Ironie to Kiribati and the Marshalls.She had signed on
and I was to meet her at the beachfront.Dani is an Aussie gal and a real outdoorsy ,sailorly type as well as being a marine biologist and diver.I was keen to have her as crew for he long passage north.After she had arrived and decompressed from her travel from the Solomon islands where she had spent 3 months diving and working,we got down to the business of getting ready for our trip.We provisioned Ironie and jerry jugged fuel and water ,did the check-out and before we knew it we were off.Sad goodbyes to Seamus and crew but
it was definitely time to get out of the South Pacific tropics.Alvaie was to head to Vila and then to New Zealand.Bye friends oh, and F'in Frank too...lol just kidding mate!!
So off we sailed in Ironie towards the Banks Islands in Northern Vanuatu.The Banks promised to be a great group of islands with lots to see.Our first stop was Gau island.Gau at the time of our visit was
under severe alert due to volcanic activity.She hadn't blown her to but was sure acting up.We visited a small village on the S.W. side of the island where we were greeted and shown around the village.The people told us about the water shortage the island was experiencing due to foul water from sulfur being put in the fresh
water system by the volcanic activity.There was only one small spring supplying the whole side of the island,and it was only accessible at low tide.Rough times for Gau.On Gau we did a hike up a dry creek ed up to a waterfall guided by some local kids.the kids liked to draw pictures on the rocks on the way up the mountain.a nice hike!we stopped in a few other anchorages up the coast and then did a passage
a passage to Mota Lava island just a bit West of North from Gau.Mota Lava sports the famous Waterfall Bay.It was a good anchorage and a fine waterfall to be sure!
We spent a few days here swimming and taking on water and veggies.Moving on we had intended to stop at the Reef Islands in between Mota Lava and Uraparapara,the next island to the north,but the winds and sea conditions were a bit stout for a low lying island with not much in the way of protection.We
gave the Reefs a miss and sailed into the bay at Uraparapara.Entering the bay is pretty fantastic.It is a volcanic cone with one side blown off.Kind of shaped like a big squashed "C"High ridges all around.We entered in 30 Knots with big ol rollers taking us in.The sea calmed slowly as we got farther back into the bay.We anchored in the back corner.There were 3 or 4 other boats anchored here,the first we'd seen since leaving Santo.
We rested up as we were greeted by locals in dugouts.It was a pretty amazing landscape and we took it all in.We eventually made it to shore through the maze of mangrove and got a bit of the lay of the land.Dani wanted to hike up to the ridge so we made a plan to do that.We were invited to a performance by the local string band that night.It was raining so they set up in a small house which lent an amazing acoustic atmosphere.great night with some excellent musicians!they even had a 7 year old kid in the group on drums.great,great stuff.the next day there was to be a fund raising event for the local school where we were promised lots of food and kava.We made friend with a french family sailing around
and met the Chief Nelson of the village.The next day we did our big hike up the mountain escorted by the local kids again.It was pretty much straight up!slippery and slidy all the way.Dani hiked barefoot like the feral sheela she is...Great views from the top and everyone enjoyed a big ripe papaya I'd brought.One of the local kids showed us how to make fire rubbing sticks together.Talented bunch on Uraparapara.After about a week on the Island we set off to the NorthEast and I was hoping to make Tikopia Island in the Eastern Solomons and then make our slog North to Tarawa in kiribati.We sailed out of Uraparapara and were sailing into 20-25 knots on the nose.I was desperately trying to coax Ironie to make a course for Tikopia but she wouldn't do it on one tack.We were about 10 miles out and I noticed
a big gaping tear in the headsail.Well,that just wouldn't do!I was expecting this to happen for some time as the sail i was flying took the former owner of Ironie,Josh, all the way "around" so the old rags' time had come.It was too windy to change sail at sea so we headed back to Uraparapara for another night.We made it back to the achorage by noon and did a sail change.The only problem is that the spare headsail is a real dog with a big ol'belly and wouldn't take us to windward for the trip we had planned.I told Dani the news and said we would have to change our
plan and go to Kosere in Micronesia instead.She seemed ok with this so after a nights rest we headed out to sea again with a new course and a new destination.The sailing conditions were better than the day before with a 15 knots Easterly breeze.The course to Koserae would take us through the Santa Cruz islands in the Eastern Solomons and directly past the Duff Islands.
I had read about the Duffs in the book "We the Naigators "by David Lewis.They still practice traditional navigation there and I was very interested to make a stop here if at all possible.I couldn't find any information about anchorages and had no navigational map.he only information I had was from the Lonely Planet guide book but it did have a small map.I showed it to Dani and asked if she were up for a little adventure cruising.She was keen so we were on!
We spotted the Islands early morning of our 3rd day out of the Banks.It was a clear day so reef spotting wouldn't be a problem.As we cautiously approached the islands we say a canoe approach.he was paddling fat towards us.Cool!some local knowledge.The man came along side and we told him we were interested to anchor here.He said he knew a place and so we invited him aboard to help us pilot Ironie to anchorage.Harry was the boys name and he was just as you would picture
the Solomon islands native with beetle nut stains on his teeth and down his chest and a big tied back mop of hair piled up on his head.we started moving towards the island but I wasn't comfortable in the 10 meter depths so i pulled out of approach.There was a power boat approaching and Harry said it was his brother.We were to follow Harry's brother .Off we went parallel to the island.in 30-40 meter depth.It was way too deep to anchor.By this time there were 10-15 canoes following us waving and shouting.I felt I was
in some kind of James Mitchner novel.We finally found a sad patch in 22 meters of water at an open road stead.I dropped the hook.We were hooked up good in the sand but there was a chop and a swell running.I'd been in worse.Dani was ok with it too so we relaxed and greeted our new friends.After chatting for awhile we said we needed to straighten up the boat and then we would come ashore.hen we got the kayak out and paddled to shore,Ironie looked pretty prone out there.I thought we would try to find another spot a.s.a.p. .
We were escorted to the villge by the kids and Met the Chief who everyone called "horrible Stanley".We finally figured out they were saying "Honorable Stanley"...So we met "horrible Stanley".Dani gave him a small gift of a lava lava as a token gesture thanks for letting us stay.we were here without proper permission as we had not checked into the Solomons so we were hoping that horrible Stanley would be cool.He definitely was!!We were told that we were the first yacht to stop here in 20 years!!We were given the royal treatment here.We were shown the school with the latest internet facilities!I even sent an email to my mom...We were also shown the man-made
islands that were built about a 100 meters off the coast.there were many people living here and everything was neat and tidy.The islands were built by the islanders to avoid the malarial mosquitoes on the island.They told us that they have been there since the 1600's at the first sightings of the islands.pretty impressive!During our tour I was given a gift of an oar and a canoe baler by 2 of the villagers.Very local and very cool!after the tour Stanley asked us if there was anything we needed.We told him we could use some veggies and fruits.We wrote up a list of what we wanted....coconut,papaya,yam,sweet potato,island cabbage, etc...
He said he would see what he could do.Dani and i paddled back to Ironie for a rest and a swim.We had been on board for less than an hour when we noticed some canoes coming out to the boat.They came alongside with loads of fruit and veg!there were 2 at first and then 2 more and 2 more and they kept coming!!we couldn't take all the stuff they brought us.Ironie was busting at the seams!They had never had yachts here so the people didn't understand the protocol of being asked aboard so everyone that came with veggies just tied up their canoes to Ironies stern and then just climbed aboard.I didn't count but there must have been 20 people on Ironie!It was such an awesome welcome.I broke out the cookies and candy and even made them curry and rice burritos.
Everyone hung out and we played music and just enjoyed everyones company.Dani and the women went up to the bow to chat and I hung with the men in the cockpit.It was getting to dark and the party was breaking up.We said good night to our new friends and cleaned up the mess.A few candy wrappers and a couple of beetle nut juice stains were the worst.This was the place that many sailors hope to go.completely untouched and pristine.Dani and I felt very lucky to be here.We enjoyed a very well deserved rest after all the excitement.It was a fun day.
The next day Harry came out and helped us find a better anchorage on the end of the island.Still in 20 meters but much better shelter.Unfortunately it was very far from the village.We spent a couple of days diving and snorkeling and doing a bit od land touring.Harry's father helped get us some water from a spring and then it was time to move on again.We said goodbye to Harry and his Dad and sadly sailed away.I was a great stop but we couldn't hang too long as cyclone season was fast approaching...Off we sailed past the western part of the Duff chain dreaming of the delights of the uninhabited islands.we both said we would come back one day to these untouched ,pristine islands for a longer stay....sail on Ironie...sail on...
We sailed around the western end of the group and then set a course NW towards Kosere.We had good sailing for about a day and a half and then the winds became more northerly and then moved into the NW and stayed there not allowing us to make our course.convinced this was only a temporary condition we continued on our way making it as close to our course but going NE.This condition persisted for the next week!It was being caused by a big low over Paupa New Guinea and wasn't forecast to change anytime soon...Hummmm...I thought about it and decided we would
head for Tarawa and hit Kosere after.Dani was ok with this plan so we came off the wind and took a direct course for Tarawa in Kiribati passing directly by Nauru.I thought I would try to make a stop in Nauru even though the cruising guide said cruising boats are not welcome.We sailed off with our NW wind on our way towards Nauru.We were surprised to sight a large object one day about mile off Ironies starboard forequarter.We thought maybe it was a lifeboat.As we got closer it revealed itself t be a huge tree trunk floating inverted.It was a monster and I was glad not to have run into it at night!Dani wanted to dive on the thing but i wouldn't let her.After we passed the tree the waters became really active with large schools of tuna feeding.They were everywhere!!It was really encouraging to see that much activity in the water as having many conversations with Dani about the decimation of the worlds pelagic fish population and the general shitty condition of the worlds oceans in general.We eventually sighted Nauru.The winds were light and we were just ghosting along.I tried to raise Radio Nauru on channel 16 all day but got no response.e could see the big cantilever system that they use to load the bird guano/phosphate on the big ships with.Nauru is one of three Islands in the pacific that has been systematically strip mined for phosphate over the past 100 years or so completely scaring the landscape.They are in "secondary "mining operations now, Im told,getting the last crumbs...There wasn't much wind so we just slowly ghosted past the island.Around midnight we were 12 miles off shore of Nauru when we saw a boat approaching us from the island.It was an official government boat with Customs and Quarantine officials and crew aboard!they came alongside and requested permission to board!I was really
surprised at this.Ironie had never been boarded at sea by anyone!And,it was bloody midnight 12 miles offshore!Ok,whatever.the guys came aboard asking why we were there.I told them their island was in the way between Vanuatu and Kiribati.then they wanted me to fill out their paperwork.I said that we didn,t want to stop at Nauru and we were on our way to Tarawa,why should we have to fill out their paperwork.They said we had to fill out their forms because we were in Nauru territorial waters.Ok,ok we did as they requested and then they had the nerve to ask for $35!!I basically told them to get F'ed and sent them on their way.I was totally shocked by this whole encounter,and then the gall to ask for money...crazy stuff!!Dani said that she thought that they had one of those secret
black site prisons on the island and thats why they are so touchy about who gets near their bird poo island...Nauru left a bad taste....Bye Nauru keep stripping your island...crazy huh....oh well,off we sailed into the early morning blackness.We made steady progress towards tarawa.We briefly entertained the idea of stopping at Banaba, Kiribati bird poo island but thought to give it a miss.One blown out ,phosphate island was enough for this trip.We came into Tarawa with squally conditions following the waypoints I used last year.good thing I had them
as the first channel bouy was not there anymore,got washed away,I was told.We made the anchorage near Betio and took a much deserved rest after the long trip from Vanuatu.It's always nice to make a smooth landing....It was getting close to Christmas,and I was hoping to make a stop in Butaritari on our way up towards the Marshall Islands,and see the great celebration they have there like i did last year.It was back to my original plan now which was that I would go to the Marshalls and try to get some work again...When we checked in
with Immigration and Customs we were told that They don't allow outward bound yachts to stop in Butaritari anymore.It seems that our friends on Samba that May and I spent Christmas with last year on Butaritari Abused the system and didn't check in properly or something and now all the yachts are suffering for it....ahhh one bad apple does spoil the whole bunch ,it seems...oh well.So,after checking in we had our first cold beers after 2 weeks at sea and caught an instant beer/sleep deprived buzz...ahhhhh,all my back muscles could finally relax...good stuff!!We hung around Betio and Bairikei a bit had some yummy chinese food at Aboys Kitchen and tried to make or plans for the next step.Since we couldn't
visit Butaritari Dani said she thought she would fly home to Australia to see her family for the holidays and then maybe go up to Indonesia to reunite with her former boatmate John on Caca Fuego.That means Steve and Ironie would be on our own for awhile.No problem....I would welcome a bit of R&R and solo time.Dani Flew hoe a few days later and i was left chillin' out in Tarawa.there was another single hander named Mike who was on their way to Koserae and also a boat named Galivant with Bruce and Marion aboard.Gallivant was also on their way to Majuro but were waiting for Cary and Karen from the boat Seal who were flying in from Aussie whom Galivant was going to transport to Majuro.The Westerlys continued to blow for a week or more making the anchorage in Betio very bumpy to say the least.Barrels and barrels of rain came out of the sky ...When it finally cleared was time to leave Tarawa, Ironie left along with Gallivant.The forecast was looking "so-so" but it didn't look like it was going to get much better
So Off I sailed...I left about an hour ahead of Gallivant and was promply passed in another 2 hours.Gallivant which is substantially longer than Ironie was movin and groovin and Ironie was doing her normal 4-5 knots.We kept in contact on the VHF radio but they were soon out of range.After I passed Butaritari.The wind decided to shift into the North which of course was the direction I wanted to go.I wasn't prepared to motor into it so I beared off and took the best course i could,tacking occasionally. I was making piss poor progress and then the shit came on...The winds picked up and the rain came down.It lasted
for 3 days With winds up to 40 knots and more rain than I've ever seen!I didn't get much sleep during this period.It was up and down in and out with the headsail...When I finally made it past Milli atoll in the Southern Marshalls the wind and rain gave me a break.I had wind from the East which made Majuro an easy shot.I had great sailing the rest of the way.I made the pass at Majuro around dusk with a healthy 30 knots to tack into up the lagoon.I decided to grab a mooring at an islet named Enimonit,outside of town.It was a bit of a challenge to hook a mooring at night but I got her on the first try! I slept the sleep of the dead and awoke to a lovely morning at lovely Enimonit....ahhhh nice!I cleaned up the mess of the 5 day 400 mile passage and had a nice leisurely morning before heading into Uliga dock and dealing with the check in....I sailed in and my ol' buddy Larry from Katey Lee
greeted me and took my mooring line.It was good to see some familiar faces,Hawkeye,Rubicon,Katey Lee all have been here since last year.Nice to see everyone again.I was happy to get some American style provisions here and also have a place to get parts and peices sent(which include a new Ironie headsail!Thanks for the help on that one Mom and Rick!!!).Majuro is a great place for that.I was hoping to get my job back at the Coop School but was told they were full up.I ended up getting work at a discount store here called EZ Price working Construction I worked there full time and made a few bucks to put in the ol' cookie jar for future adventures.Now I have been in Majuro for 4 months and made lots of new friends.Ironie is getting some much needed and deserved T.L.C. and now that my job at Ez Price has ended I am planning some new Ironie adventures.keep tuned....Fair winds and a calm seas to you all....Captain Steve