Although I was enjoying being in Morro Jable I decided to take a weather window and make passage to the next island of Gran Canaria so on Sunday I made the 55-mile passage heading for Las Palmas and an anchorage just north of the marina. I left at 2.00 am so that I would get there in daylight as it's a very large and busy commercial shipping port. The forecast was for the usual NE up to about 20 knots just right, as I left it was flat calm so I motored for the first hour or so. I am getting a little more comfortable with these fickle winds round here so had a reef (reduced sail area) already in on the main, the wind the slowly built up to about 20 knots - my wind speed monitor has stopped working - something else to sort out. The wave height was about 2 meters and it was very overcast so not too pleasant, a little like sailing back in the UK. Eventually I shook-out the reef and was making about 5 - 6 knots - not bad. I didn't see any other vessels until about 3 miles off Gran Caneria the ferry heading out.
As I approached the port there was a sailing boat heading out and we gave each other the usual courtesy wave. They then headed back in and as they caught up with me in perfect English said hello and to follow them into the anchorage - how nice. I dropped anchor at about 1.30 average speed 5 knots, not bad going. They had also anchored and shouted across to come and have some wine when I was ready which I did. What a lovely welcome, we sat in their cockpit and drank wine and had some food, Juan is involved in air traffic control for the islands and his partner is a teacher. Juan told me that I would be left alone for at least three weeks but at 8.30 the police called by to say that there ha been a change in policy and no anchoring between June & September and I had to go into the marina. I was concerned at the cost but found it very reasonable €57 for the first week going down to €47 (£40) thereafter, water & electricity include - relief I can live with that. When I told Juan he was as surprised as I had been and he is local.
The large structure on the skyline right is an enormous container carrier being manoeuvred by 6 tugs
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Leon who I first met in Gran Tarajal Marina sailing with his kids on a Hobie Cat. He lives onboard their yacht on a pontoon in the harbor and is an instructor at the surf center
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Sorry folks I know I'm being boring but just look at the view - Warrior bobbing away at anchor - its such a hard life
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A beautiful cactus flowering just up from the beach
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Imagine yourself sitting on the rocks or in the bar having a drink.... Not had anymore of that vicious wind and having 30 meters of chain in 5 meters of water is the answer to sleeping well at night.
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Benign and beautiful - don't you believe it - two nights ago for 24 hours I was caught in this bay by a vicious NNE off shore gale force 8 wind - it might have been even more. My anchor started dragging so I decided to move from being nearer the camera and in line with a valley running down from the mountains behind the town to where I am now, more west and in the shadow of a massive hotel complex. I couldn't actually raise the anchor even by motoring into the wind, past it and as Warrior fell back taking in the slack chain she fell back so quickly it was bar tight again in a split second. I just went full ahead and slowly dragged the anchor across the sandy bottom to more or less where I am now. It's only 5 meters deep but I have 35 meters of chain out and its mud (normally it should be 15 - 20 meters of chain). However, the third day was nearly as bad so I prepared a second anchor just in case! The worst part of it was the intermittent gusts that made Warrior veer about, very uncomfortable.
I was taking with a one of the sailing instructors who lives with his family on their yacht on a pontoon in the harbor and he told me that a 60 knot gust was recorded as it speed down the side of the mountain straight into the harbor for about 30 seconds. In the scale of wind that was a storm to hurricane - blimey. Hold onto you hats folks, speaking of which I have had two blown off in the last week or so - windy or what. As I mentioned in one of my earlier blogs June & July can be windy but this year is an exception
Yes we are the only ones in the bay - Warrior nearest camera - despite the wind problems it's a great place to be
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Tarajal was a nice marina and cheap only €8.22 (£6.60) per day discount for week/month/year, not much to the town but pleasant. Forecasting high winds again - don't want to get stuck there also paying for the marina so headed off on the 28th to the next port of Puerto De Morro Jable, 20nm (miles) on the southern tip of the island. Left at 1.30 with 2 reefs in just in case as wind is very fluky here abouts. On a reach - wind coming from the quarter - doing about 5 knots - just over ½ way the wind went very light to nothing so shook out the reefs. Suddenly the wind came back and increased until it must have been blowing a very good 7+, over canvassed now but as its only 7 nm so decided not to reef. Had a cracking sail, hard work as a lot of weather helm but doing 7 knots - not done that before. As soon as we got round the point - flat calm - just like that so motored the last mile or so. Went into the harbor to anchor as charts indicated anchorage but sent away by the harbor staff so went at anchor in a bay just west of harbor, what a pleasant surprise this must be one of the prettiest anchorages so far
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After the crossing from Lanzarote I anchored in the lovely bay El Puertito, on the uninhabited island of Isla de Lobos, I still can't get over the beautifully clear water around here. I was keeping an eye on the wind forecasts as it looked as though strong winds were on there way again. The wind started to pick-up during the evening so I decided to have an early start and make for a safe haven, this would mean that I could not explore the island or stop at numerous anchorage on the east side of Ferteventra - keep that for another time. Strong to gale force were being suggested so I decided to sail to the port of Gran Tarajal at the south end which would be sheltered from the north east wind. I had a great sail and did the 37 miles in 6 hours that is an average of 5 knots - not bad.
It's been so quiet over the past couple of days - flat calm so I thought that I may have overreacted and walked to the top of the hill behind the marina and had a look out to sea - braking waves off-shore which means winds of 7 - 8 so it was a correct decision after all.
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Finaly left the Lanzarote and crossed to the next island Ferteventra only a 7-mile crossing. We are having strange weather due to La Calema - sand blown over from Western Sahara - its like a haze or mist but fine particles of sand rather than water and different from that of Lanazarote which was like fine grit and unpleasant.
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Outside a restaurant in Play Blanca
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Warrior (center) anchored of the old town of Playa Blanca, very sheltered from the north winds
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When at anchored in Playa Blanca it was a little unnerving seeing the high-speed ferry heading straight towards you - it always does a hard right shortly after this photograph was taken.
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We went into Marina Rubicon just across the bay from PlayaBlanca to fill tanks, do the laundry, wash all that muck of Warrior and have a nice hot shower in fresh water. Only staying a couple of days as it's expensive - 22 euros a day, I was paying that for a week in Grasiosa Marina, - this is the luxury end of the market - up market restaurants & shops - out of my league.
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On Wednesday I motored over to Playa Blanca and anchored a stone throw from the old town just a short row to the small pier. I like this part of the island much better, a more natural landscape but the usual commercial development - shops, shops and endless restaurants - a lot of tourists - seem to be mainly British.
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Left the anchorage at 9.30 am in a flat calm and then, surprise, surprise, the wind went round to the south east after being in the north for the past 8 weeks or more - light but had a great sail - slow but who's is in a hurry and anyway, the sun was shinning. I was about ½ a mile off-shore and just happened to look over the side - I could sea the bottom - funny we should be in deep water, switched on the echo sounder and it gave me 17 meters, looked at the chart and it confirmed - the water is so clear you can see down to those depths - 'I just don't believe it'. Sailed along the coast watching the holidaymakers on the beaches - yellow sand here rather than the black volcanic stuff in the north of Lanzarote. Anchored at lunchtime off the third beach, Playa de Las Mujeras in 5 meters of water as clear as clear could be, you can watch the anchor going down and settle itself in that lovely sand.
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Yippee - the wind went down today (Tuesday) and there was a 3 day window so up-anchor and away. Had a great sail to a bay called Playa Quemada just 10 nautical miles and anchored off the beach, there was a little swell running but manageable. Not sure what the building is - smugglers lookout
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Getting impatient about the lack of new water tank. I want a good hot 'fresh water' shower as I have been wash in the cockpit with salt water as all my fresh water has run out. There is no source of water anywhere here so I have to buy it from the supermarket at just under €1 for 5 litres. Because of these constant strong northerly winds everything is covered in fine volcanic sand actually more of grit so I have to constantly wash down and clean bellow decks, you can see the red dust it in this photo. Will give it one more week and if the tank does not turn up will move on and get it elsewhere - whinge, whinge, moan, moan.
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I have been talking to a few people about the strong northerly winds that we have been experiencing, they tell me that the weather patterns seam to be changing here as well as in other parts of the world. We have recently had 14 days of 20 - 25 knots of NE, NW mainly NNE wind without much break. I gather that the Canneries have had very little south in the wind that usually also brings rain and they have not had for a year. I was talking with the French skipper of this beautiful classic old-timer who is trying to head for Gibraltar and he was saying that he might have to wait till September if he wants a comfortable passage, he could bash it but he is not a young guy, has two women and three dogs on board - small ones - that's the dog's not crew, luckily he is not in any hurry.
I just had a look at forecast for the next 7 days and even more wind - gale force 8 for Sunday and Monday with wave heights of 3.9- bugger, predicting going down on Wednesday to 5 - sigh.
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I am staying put in Arrecife for the moment as it's a free mooring which means I can use the cash that I would be spending on mooring / marinas for my minor refit.
So far I have:
- varnished bellow decks - looks great
- replaced my halliards - the ropes that mainly pull the sails up
- repaired a leak in my hot-water tank
- drank some red wine
- repaired the pneumatic saloon table support - I don't have to wrestle with it anymore
- found the leak in my aft cabin and fixed it - when doing my passage from Morocco I found the bunks in the cabin wet, a nut anchoring the life rails to the deck had corroded and broken the seal
- drank some red wine
- after 30 years the sealant round the windows has started to break down and the forward port side was leaking, I have just removed it and replaced the seal. I was not looking forward to the job as I was petrified I might break the Perspex but all went well, will slowly work my way round all of them
- drank some red wine
I now need a new domestic battery as one of the old ones has given up, not urgent as there is so much sun the solar panels are coping with the demands
Waiting on delivery of a new 200-litre flexible main water tank which hopefully should be here at the start of June
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This is the seabed in Puerto de Arrecife - nothing for the anchor to settle into hence the concert block. Warrior is in the blue speck centre
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I snorkelled the other day and had a look at the mooring that I had picked up - shock horror - it was seriously bad, shackle was about to go and the rest looked dodgy the only good bit was the rope riser. I took my own chain down to the block so all is fine again. Just confirms my philosophy - never pick-up a mooring without checking it first - rely on your own anchor. As you can see the water is so clear - the block is just over 2 meters down. The upper air temperature has until recently been around a pleasant 25˚C but there has been a small heat wave with 30˚+ and warnings not to go out unless you need to. Some elderly British walkers on one of the islands died through heatstroke. On the water its much lower particularly when there is a breeze.
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There is always a deposit of Sahara sand over everything sometime the problem is worse than others, the Sahara is 333 kilometres (207 miles) from the Canary Islands. In the photograph you can see a layer / cloud of sand on the horizon, this phenomenon is called a Calema
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Well, it's been an interesting few days; Warrior has been very slowly dragging her anchor across the bay in these strong northerly winds - about 4 times. The bottom is stone with an overlay of boulders so the anchor gets pulled through unless you are lucky and hook up a nice big rock, then you may have problems breaking free. It's not so dramatic as it sounds as the process takes a few hours you have plenty of time to decide what to do. Anyway, solved the problem by finding a mooring that has a large hunk of concrete on the end. Moorings were laid a few years back for a regatta but most have had there riser removed but you can snorkel at low water - about 2 meters and find one, dive down and attach a mooring line. I was lucky as when a yacht left yesterday I picked the mooring up and it looks solid so problem solved.
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Changed my view by moving a few hundred yards as the crow flies that is to Puerto de Arrecife much nicer I think you will agree, its still very blustery but manageable. The town itself is just a short walk from the anchorage with three Spar supermarkets and all the usual fashion and tourist retail shops. I found a cinema so might go and see Titanic. I ordered my water tank today, expensive because of where we are but even if I bought it in the UK and had it shipped it would not work out much cheaper.
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I caught a bus down the coast to catch up with Bjørn & Berit at Puerto Calero marina. I had a fantastic day and fantastic meal that Berit had prepared after which we all went for a fun sail on their new 'Happy Cat', not much wind unfortunately and from the wrong direction most of the time but still great fun - I need a waterproof camera.
Tomorrow I am going to investigate getting a new flexible water tank as the present one is leaking I have already attempted repairing it but its past its prime now. I came across a Plastimo stockist so if they don't have one in stock they should be able to get one for me.
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Since I got back from the UK the weather has been very unseasonable, very strong northerly winds and not all that warm so Warrior was stuck in the marina for another couple of weeks. I finally got out today (2nd May) and made passage to the next island of Lanzarote and am now anchored in Puerto de Naos just a stones throw from the town of Arrecife. It's not as a glamorous setting as Graciosa but very convenient for chandlers and other shops. Over the next few weeks I need to do maintenance, renew some of the running rigging continue with varnish work and buy a new household battery as one of them has packed up.
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Hi everyone I am now back on Graciosa after my UK visit. I had some dramas with my flight back. After turning up at the rail station a day early and panicking as there was no anticipated train - what a bozo! I had a close shave the following day catching my flight as the train was 25 minutes late which in turn meant I missed my slot for booking in my bag at the airport, I was charged an extra £50 over and above the £30 that I had already shelled out meaning I paid more for my bag that my flight thanks - Ryanair.
I spent too much on this visit so I will have to stay till the end of the month before I can pay the marina - hay not a bad place to spend another couple of weeks especially as its proving extremely windy. I decided to use the time constructively by getting on with varnishing the interior of Warrior as it was looking a little tired and what a difference its now beginning to look bright and cheerful again. I had a very productive time in the UK, it was great to see Gail, Gina and of course Ozzy. Gina has done really well at work and is being trained as a trainer herself - onward and upward - well-done girl. Got my passport renewed, had my annual medical and pleased to report that all is well and ready to do a few more miles, processed over 100 images for the libraries and went up to Cumbria to catch up with friend and ex colleagues at the University. There are not many left now due to the cuts taking place at the University of Cumbria. It's really sad to see what was a very successful specialist art college with a history of over 100 years being dismantled. The criminal stupidity is that all those skills and experience that the technicians have are now disappearing and the management seems totally oblivious or just not interested, I put it down to ignorance. Needless to say moral is very low as everyone is wondering what is next to go. I can see that arts and humanities disappearing altogether from this so-called University, its what gives humanity its anchor and reference to everything else - sorry folks I'm going off on one but it does makes me so angry.
At the end of March I will be heading for the town of Arrecife on the northeast coast of Lanzarote and one of the main tourist centres in the Canaries, it will be quite a contrast to Graciosa will keep you posted
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Back in Rugby where I spent a good part of my early life in a little village called Churchover. I did my schooling in Rugby, undertook my apprenticeship and then worked as a staff photographer on the Coventry Evening Telegraph newspaper before moving down to London and Covent Garden. A lot of water has flowed under my keel since then.
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The main studio being used by one of the students. The facility still looks impressive even though I say it myself
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The computer and print resource area at the Uni
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