25/08/2009, S/Y Best Explorer - Tromsoe
Weather has been fair with us as we had almost no wind since leaving Spitzbergen, which is a blessing due to our short handed crew of two (the boys are very green sailors and contribute to our watches with their good humor and company). Fog was with us until Bjoernoeya, very thick at times, especially as when approaching Soerhamna. Just after spotting the first breakers on the rugged coast of the island below the fog we have been approached by a large Coast Guard ship (a cutter?) asking us questions about our programs and nationality. They afterwards kept a watchful eye on us from far away until safely anchored. Waters around the island were rough with overfalls and a stream of up to three knots going north. The eerie sight of the rocks of Maakehl, an island blocking the entrance of Soerhamna from the east, jutting out of the sea like a ghost ship and surrounded by the surf, and a similar phantom view of the opposite greenish rocks of Kapp Malmgren didn't invite us to enter, more so for the intense line of overfalls, but we entered as well though with awe and much care, silently hoping that no problem would arise from our faithful motor. Once inside we found ourselves in a narrow and forbidding bay almost not sheltered from the swell and ending with a cliff of 20 or so meters with no way up and a narrow strip of gravel at its bottom. After some struggle with our windlass, stuck with the mud of the last anchorages, we dropped our CQR anchor in 8 meters water and finally rested for a couple of hours after a good dish of spaghetti (no kidding!). Exiting was easier, also because visibility had much improved. Tide changed and now the strong current was directed south. Between the coast and Maakehl there is a narrow gap and a veritable torrent of water was entering the bay swinging our boat in various directions. Once out, we saw the wreck of a russian ship stamped along the rocks of Evjebukta and I can't deny that we had all goose pimples on our necks considering the fate of that vessel. In front of us was laying a last danger: a wide belt of overfalls with breakers that we tried to negotiate at our best. Luckily the weather was still very calm with only a swell of one meter from east and all went well. Just south of Bjoerneya Bifall called us on VHF, having spotted us anchored on the bay while coming from their visit to the northern radio station and we exchanged a very pleasant word with them. No other special story for the 160 miles we motored since, apart from some spottings of dolphins and an occasional diversion from our course to avoid lines from a Long Liner (a trawler) who asked us to do so. We are now preparing for our second real night after leaving the northern midnight sun: how sad! Tomorrow it will be Mainland Norway. I forgot to tell my most important personal story: I became grandfather for the sixth time with Elisa this morning at six! Welcome Elisa and congratulations to Emma and Matthias and to Mariele who flew to them and to the little Sara directly from Longyearbyen. See you all soon on Best Explorer...
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23/08/2009, S/Y Best Explorer - Tromsoe
After a good rest in Recherchefjorden we woke up finding another sailboat near us. Later on we were approached by our neighbors: we have been sailing along the coasts of Spitzbergen more or less at the same time. Actually we were near or around Bifall, that's the name of the boat, in Longyearbyen, Hamburgbukta, Hornbaekpollen and we both visited Moffen and Mushamna. They were so nice hat we decided to have lunch together the following day, so we did on Best Explorer and later on saturday we had coffee on Bifall and the precious gift of some Red Spirit we ran short. They left Recherchefjorden before us and are on their way to Bjornoeya where we might meet again. Meteo forecast improved during our stay in Recherchefjorden and despite the unexpected and much welcome visit of a polar bear, the first experience for Nicoletta, Giacomo and Clemente, we also sailed on the nigth of sunday. We are now motoring in the middle of Storfjordrenna on a sea with long rollers from south west and east, but little wind. The only thing we lack is heating, because webasto air heater left us a few days ago and we cannot run the stove while motoring. Too bad. It s the third time since we left Italy and we definitely feel it's time to do something basic to solve this nasty problem.
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