Sea Lions surround us, making guttural cattle-like sounds. Golden cowrays and mantarays visit, flapping the water with their wings.
The tuna surround the bait fish, expertly herding them into a tightening circle, then massacring the fish boil right next to our boat. Then they all join in, sea lions, puffer fish, frigates, laughing gulls, noddies and pelicans.
Marine iguanas dot the rocks
Interspersed with daubs of vermillion Sally Lightfoot crabs
The harbor of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is peaceful and comfy.
The Galapagos are laid back.
Everyone has their favourite sleeping spot, even Guy from Endorfin.
The sealion pups are playfull, while the grown ups are lazy sleeping shitting mounds of fur and fat.
Some of the local pro fishermen have a unique way of ensuring that their boat is not picked as the bedroom or dunny. They surround the topsides with rolls of barbed wire. Most effective but not really within the spirit of the Galapagos.
This old fellow may well be a reli of the land tortoises we chummed up with in Saint Helena, a couple of oceans before.
He gives a knowing blink of the eye to ward off the flies. Yep, flies.
This is the closest thing to Oz we have come across, yet the local human inhabitants here have yet to develop our own effective and unique Aussi salute.
But... the fight for survival goes on....meal by meal.
Note for Yachties: Provisioning at Galapagos
Supplies are much much better than any of the literature lets on.
The municipal fresh market is splendid- tomatoes, basil, parsley, potatoes, onions, broccoli, cauliflowers, spring onions, sweet potatoes, lettuce, eggs, beetroots, cucumber, snake beans, capsicums, chillies, apples, pears, bananas, watermelons, cabbages, melons, shallots, pumpkins, beef, pork, chicken, prawns, avocados etc. Prices are dirt cheap.
The choice at the market is much better on the days that the ship comes in (once a week usually Tues or Wednesday). Sat and Wed mornings are apparently the best - more stalls and more choice, but the mercardo is open every day.
There is a fish monger, and a number of butchers.
There are a number of laundries. Sebastian's seems to get the nod from the locals. Good equipment and $1 a kilo. Open 7 days a week.
Other small tiendas dot the town selling bacon, yoghurt, cheese etc. Each seems to have its own little niche.
There are two smallish supermarkets with a surprisingly wide selection. Chemists abound.
Pasta, rice, flour and all the basics eg vinegar, tinned tomatoes are sold in most of the tiendas.
Bread flour is available in one supermarket and from the panaderia (in bulk).
While wine is available here, it is 200% to 250% more expensive than Panama and the choice is limited. So stock up on wine before you come.
So in other words, except for wine, there is no need to overstock in Panama.
Also if you go to Sharsky, one of the tour operators on the foreshore, for a fee they will refill your propane bottles. If they don't have the fittings for your bottle they'll send it over by ferry to Santa Cruz to get it filled.