Update 68 August 2014

I am a little quicker this time in bringing you all up to date with our travels.

We left Portimao on the 16th June for the Azores. As I said previously this was going to be an interesting trip as so many people we talked to had had to turn back because of weather. We had our final farewell with Orca Joss again and motored out. There was very little wind so we motored to get past the shipping lane off the corner of Portugal in daylight. The winds then picked up and we started sailing. We had a brilliant trip with some motoring or motor sailing but mostly just under sail. It took us just over 7 days to do the 800nm which we think was a good, comfortable speed to travel.
Our landfall was at Ponta Delgada Marina on the island of Sao Miguel. This is the largest of the 9 islands that make up the group that belong to Portugal. The cost of the marina was less than half of that on the mainland and also the cost of living was much cheaper. The islands must be heavily subsidised by the Portuguese government. The fresh fruit and vegetables was some of the best we have come across for a long long time. Most of it is grown on the very fertile land and is not refrigerated which means it will last so much longer and taste so much better. We took a day tour to see the island and it is stunning. It reminded us so much of New Zealand. It has the thermal springs and even produces electric from the steam. A lot of the flora has been introduced from New Zealand including the giant ferns. We stayed 6 days then sailed the 150 miles to Horta on Faial. Horta is the Mecca of the Azores for sailors. Every boat that comes across the Atlantic from west to east calls at Horta, it is called the crossroads of the Atlantic. As we were arriving at the same time as most of these boats we were very lucky to get a place in the marina. Some boats anchored, others were tied 3 abreast on the wall protecting the marina.
We were told that all the islands were different and they are. Faial is one of the smaller islands and again is lush and green. We hired a car here for one day but picked the wrong day as mist had settled over the island. We went to the highest point to see the rim of the volcano but could only see about 10 feet in front of us. What we did see was the beautiful blue and white hydrangeas that line the roads and separate the fields. It is a stunning sight. It is a tradition in Horta (if not a superstition) that all the boats have to leave their mark by painting on the wall or walkways. There are hundreds of them, many of the older ones painted over when they have faded. The paintings vary from just the name of the boat and date, to works of art. As you can see from the photo above we left our mark. We also saw several made by old friends. Just as a side line in 1999 we painted on the wall in Porto Santo (Madeira) and my sister saw it this year, a little faded after 15 years but still visible.
After a gentle sail of 22nm we went to the island of Sao Jorge. As we arrived at the marina the manager met us as we were entering and told us to go straight to a berth, tie up and go to the town. It was their festival week and there was a free lunch. We queued up with the locals and were given fish soup and bread and a big piece of white fish, grilled sardine and potatoes. It was fun trying to carry it all without dropping it. The locals must be used to it as they didn't seem to have a problem. It was all delicious. Portuguese festivals always involve music which is great but it didn't start until midnight and by 0100hrs we were falling asleep. I don't know how they can be out until 3 or 4 in the morning and be up for work the next day, and Portuguese don't seem to have the siesta like the Spanish. It was also World Cup time and Germany were playing France and we had quite a few from each country. When we went to watch the match we made a flag with the German flag on one side and French on one the other. When we arrived at the bar we showed the German flag and the Germans cheered and then we turned it round to show the French. Everyone loved it.
We hired a car again to look around the island only this time we waited until the morning of a beautiful clear day and again saw another beautiful island. Any of you who like walking holidays should think of the Azores as there are many marked trails. Sao Jorge is also famous for its dairy products especially cheese. We did try to visit the cheese factory but true to form we were a day late for the tour. We always seem to be too early or too late for most things (although we timed it right for the free food!).
Our next island was Terceiraso called because it was the 3rd island to be discovered and also 3rd in size. The town of Angra do Heroism is one of the prettiest towns in the Azores and where we had the most fun because of Germany in the world cup and making friends with a mad Bavarian and also they had music that started at 10 O'clock at night so we could stay awake longer. The only problem was it was quite windy during our stay and there was a constant swell coming into the marina so it was not the most comfortable stays. Finally moved around the island to Praia da Victoria and it was a different world. It was so calm and the cheapest marina we have been in at €17 for 2 nights. It was only 2 nights as the weather looked right to try for Ireland. We knew this would be the most challenging trip probably of all our sailing for the last 16 years.
We left the Azores thinking we would have to motor for 2 days to get any wind but 30 mins out the engine went off and we sailed very comfortably for 2 days. Then the wind picked and the genoa sun strip decided it had had enough and about 12 foot of stitching opened like a zip. Nothing we could do so on we sailed for 2 days hanging on during the day and sleeping on the floor at night. When it calmed down we took the sail down to discover there was nothing we could do so put it back up again. While at the bow, we discovered that one of the big waves, that kept crashing over the bow, had taken our starboard light lens. A plastic bag and tape was wrapped around it and we were on our way again. Clive later in the trip found a green plastic bottle and with duck tape has produced a workable motoring light. I made a Blue Peter Badge for him it was so good! Hopefully we won't need it until we can order a new one. The wind lightened and we motor sailed for a while. We then had to top up the diesel tank. While we were both on deck a big wave rolled us a bit and the 10 litre container in the cockpit fell over and the top jumped off. We lost about 7 litres in the cockpit. Not nice all the diesel sloshing about, but I will say it is a good cure for hard skin, my heels have never been so soft. Next the electric autohelm decided to play up. Clive climbed in the locker and sprayed it with Corrosion Block it decided it had had some attention and worked for the rest of the trip when needed. By now a canal boat is looking soooo good. The wind started picking again so we put in a second reef. Clive noticed that the sail cloth was caught between the rope and the eye. When he tried to move it the sail ripped so now we could not hoist the sail above the second reef no matter how light the winds got. Then the wind came round to the NE (our course was NE) and we thought we were off to Falmouth at best. We had made 25 miles to the north of our line so just had to fall down of it. Slowly the wind came back around to the NW and we were heading to Bantry Bay again. We had a huge whale come up about 50 metres to our port it was longer than Jane-G. It was fantastic to see - at first. It then seem to stalk us by going under the boat and then to our stern, then to our side again. Once we realised it wouldn't come any closer it was not so bad. It stayed with us for about 20 mins.
We arrive at the heads at 0030hrs and it was as black as black could be. No moon, no stars and as far as we could see - no land. Using electronic charting and radar we slowly made our way up the bay to arrive at the entrance to Glengarriff just after daylight. It took just under 10 days to do 1087nm.
Glengarriff has to be in the top 5 anchorages in the world and one of our favourites. It felt good to be back on home ground again. We sorted out all the repairs to the sails. The genoa took me 6 hours by hand and about 2 hours to repair the main sail.
We played about in Bantry Bay anchoring at Bantry and Castletownbere. On anchor by ourselves we were watching a film at 2030hrs when we heard a noise along side. We jumped up to see the Irish Customs boat along side. They came on board to check everything was in order with our paperwork and asked when we left the UK. They were very surprised to here it was in 1998. We had a good time chatting and told them theirs was the first boarding we have had in 16 years.
We then made our way to Castletownshend. This is was our first stop after leaving Milford Haven in 1998 where we chilled out for a week before crossing the Biscay. It is still a lovely one street Irish village but the once quite anchorage is now so full of moorings we only just found room to anchor. Our plan was to stay over a week but then we saw the weather with the tail end of hurricane Bertha heading to the UK and decided to make a run for Milford Haven. It was the perfect end to the trip. It was excellent sailing and at night, clear skies with almost a full moon. We arrived at Dale just inside Milford Haven and anchored for the night. We arrived in Neyland Marina (where we left from) 16 years 1 month and 2 days after we left and our good friends Ian and Wendy, who released our line all that time ago, were there to take them. What a welcome back. Wendy had also talked to the press so a photographer was there to document our arrival and we have been interviewed. So keep a look out in the news paper as we might have our 15 minutes of fame.
So this is the end of our adventure of sailing round the world. We will be wintering in Portishead marina as it is halfway between my Dad and Clive's parents. Here we will plan the next adventure! If any of you are passing please call in, we would love to see you.
That's all for now,
Jane and Clive