Hi Everyone,
We had a reasonable crossing from Darwin with a down wind run all the way. This made it rolly but not too bad. We motored for about 12 hours in the first 2 days then had to slow down to 3 knots the last night to make a dawn arrival. The 475 miles took us 4 days and 1 hour. Clearing customs proved to be a task as a new rule introduced in 2004 was being enforced by Jakarta. They were asking for between 5 and 40% of the cost of the boat as a deposit to sail in Indonesia. This would be returned when we left (Ha ha). We just laughed and said no sailor has that kind of money and they had a big problem, as there were 120 boats in the Sail Indonesia Rally 4 days behind us. They knew this and the chief customs man was off to Jarkarta to try to sort it out. They knew it was impractical. We got the local bar owner involved who got the tourist board involved and we were even in the local press. There were lots of phone calls to Jarkarta and in 3 days it was sorted. We have since spoken to the marina manager in Bali and it seems that it is still not fully sorted but they are still working at it. They are trying to tell Jakarta how it will affect tourism especially the small villages that the cruising boats visit. While all the fun was going on in Jakarta we cleared in with Immigration, Quarantine and the Navy. We used a guide and a taxi instead of an agent. This proved to be the right thing as once sorted we were able to cruise slowly to Bali.
Indonesia made us multimillionaires, as there are 18500 Rupiah to the pound. Kupang itself was a lively and very busy town with so much traffic. Everybody seems to ride motorbikes or use the Bemo minibuses. To cross the road was a feat in itself. The price of eating out was so good that Clive treated me everyday to dinner out! At last we were back in a country where we might be able a save a little again.
The rally boats started to arrive and so it was time for us to move on. We knew quite a few boats on the rally but the thought of travelling with so many boats and trying to anchor in small anchorages was a little off putting. We have heard great reports of past rallies but it's not for us
To get well clear of the rally we sailed 250 miles west to the Komodo National Park to see the famous Komodo Dragons. These are the largest lizards in the world and only exist on 3 adjacent islands of Komodo, Rinca and Gilimotang. We were told that Rinca was the best place to see them in the wild. Komodo Island has become a tourist island and more of a zoo for the dragons. We were rewarded with seeing one strolling along the beach as we came into anchor. The next day as we walked along the beach we saw several more along with monkeys, deer and wild pigs. After several days we moved to the north of the island to trek with a Park Warden very early in the morning. The warden was informative but we were unlucky with the wild life only saw a few monkeys and 1 small (2 metre) dragon. What we did see was the remains of a Water Buffalo. This made you realize you do not want to get too close to these mighty lizards. While we were ashore we met a German couple that had charted one of the local boats from Lombok. Later we went across to their boat to invite them for a drink on Jane-G. After a while the crew where shouting across showing us a fish. Thinking they wanted to sell it I jumped in the dinghy and went across. It was a beautiful large Angelfish and they were inviting Clive and I to dine with the Germans. The fish was delicious, fried until crispy, served with rice and stir-fried vegetables with watermelon to finish. It was an unexpected and pleasant evening. We carried on west stopping at small islands for a day or two. Indonesia has 17000 islands, 1000 volcanoes, 100 of which are still active and in fact one erupted in March of this year. Sailing around the islands is a little challenging as the tides and currents through the passages are determined by working out the moons upper and lower transit! This seems like hard work so we were just winging it. So far so good, one passage we had 6 knots with us with over falls and whirlpools and shot through doing 10.5 on GPS. Others we have had 1-3 knots against us but sailing at 6-7 knots through the water.
Our first town since Kupang was Bima on Lombok. From the harbour we took a pony and trap in to town. These are known locally as 'Ben Hur'. Everywhere was traffic, the pony and traps, the motorbikes, the bemos and cars all missing each other some how. We found the market that sold just about everything from the hundreds of stalls crammed tightly together with hardly room for 2 people to pass. The 'fresh' fish and chickens did not look that appealing.
Carrying on west we stopped at Gilli Air a small resort island on the north west of Lombok. The only transport is the pony and trap although you can walk all the way round in 1 hour. There are lots of restaurants and LOTS of tourists mostly French. The snorkelling is good, the sea is warm, the food and beer cheap - what more can you ask for. From here we did a day tour of Lombok with a local as guide. Cross the strait in the local water taxi and then meeting with a car and driver. We drove through the mountain to Mataram the capital to find an ATM to take out another million (I feel so rich). We saw the temples, rice fields, a tradition village and traditional weaving. We saw how un-mechanised Indonesia is. Men were digging up the roads with hammer and chisels and the one that surprised us, women using small hammers breaking up big river rocks until they were the size of marbles. For this they were paid the equivalent of 60 pence for 1 cubic metre. It was sad to see and reminded us of how lucky we are.
The next day Bali was calling, so just before daybreak we set sail. As the sun came higher over the horizon we saw a spectacular sight of the hundreds (I mean hundreds) of fishermen sailing their canoes back after a nights fishing. They appeared as small dots in the distance and we realised we would be sailing through the fleet. I'm not sure if it was luck or if they just avoided us but we did just sail through with no near misses. We chose to go to Bali Marina in the SE corner and close to the city of Dempaser. While out walking we found a tour company and arranged a car and guide for the next day. This trip followed an itinerary. We first saw the Barong Dance. I thought this may get a little boring but I was wrong. We had a leaflet in English which roughly told us what was happening in each act (5 in all). It was almost like a pantomime, very funny and you could follow the story. Next we saw various artisans of Bali. We were in awe of the woodcarvers and the detail that they were able to produce in their carvings. The various styles of paintings and the skill they have is amazing. We travelled high up into the hills towards Mount Batur for lunch over looking the Lake Batur. After lunch we stopped at Goa Gajha the elephant cave temple. This temple was rediscovered and dug out but archaeologists in1947. It had been lost under a landslip and from old documents they were able to locate its position. We also did another day tour where we hired a car and driver. This was much more flexible and we could go where we wanted and stop when we wanted. This time we saw more temples, silversmiths and batik workers. I surprised my self with the bartering for the goods. In Indonesia you are expected to barter. At first I got them to drop maybe 10%, now I offer 30% of what they want and get it at that price. Everything is very cheap and I have felt a little guilty about having to pay so little and getting so much. The Indonesian people are so friendly. Everywhere you go people say 'Halo' and ask where we are from. We have felt comfortable with our surroundings and all the stories of pirates so far are untrue. Although we were a little concerned in an island anchorage where we were the only foreign boat and a local boat came speeding up to us with the man on the front and the driver wearing a 'terrorist balaclava'. They all waved and shouted and went on their way. Apparently they wear them to protect themselves from the sun and wind.
If anyone has any doubts of visiting Indonesia or Bali because of terrorist or corruption I would forget the doubts and come, you will love it.
That's all for now folks,
Take care,
Jane and Clive