07/25/2010, Apia, Samoa
We awoke this morning at 5:40am to the sound of church bells. Church wasn't in session yet, so I am not sure why they were ringing when they were, but I imagine it was to remind the village that today is Sunday. We attended the 8am Catholic service in Samoan. Everyone was in their finery, we did our very best with flower print dresses for the ladies and long pants and clean shirts for the men. We were a few minutes late, but were quite welcome in the sanctuary. The entire service, including communion and collection, only lasted 25 minutes. We think that might be a record for a Catholic church, but we aren't sure. No hymnals, but a lot of singing. People just knew the words by heart.
On our way to church we began to notice smoke from the cook fires; by the time we were walking back to the Marina less than an hour later the fires were in full force and a white haze had descended upon the town. Smoke was mingling with the low hanging clouds and the atmosphere was very thick. Sundays in Samoa are meant for church and family and eating. Some of the food is prepared in an umw (pronounced oom). This is a pit dug in the ground, lined with coals. The meat or whatever is going to be cooked is set inside the pit and then covered up again with earth. There it slow cooks for a few hours. In Hawaii they often cook a whole pig this way; not sure yet what the Samoans prepare.
Nothing happens on Sunday, barely a soul on the street. All the shops are closed. It is very quiet as I sit and type this at 10am. We are going to head over to the pool at Aggie Grey's and spend the day lounging by the pool.
07/24/2010, Vailima, Samoa
Robert Louis Stevenson was the author of Treasure Island, The Strange Case Of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, and many other tales. He is best known for Treasure Island, a tale of pirates, secret islands, and men who drink too much rum. His writing career was indeed amazing. During the last four and a half years of his life, he wrote thirteen books. His works are still famous today.
Upon entering his house, I got the distinct impression that a lot of people had lived there with him. There were five bedrooms, a smoking room, a dining room, and a great hall. His mother, his stepdaughter, his wife, and his stepgrandson lived with him.
His mother, Margaret, never really fit in. The climate was too hot for her. Also, she didn't really get along with the samoans.
At one point in his stay, he met a girl whose birthday was on Christmas. He knew he was nearing the end of his life, and so he offered to swap birthdays with her. They even had the legal documents drawn up!
The first room we went to was the smoking room. There was a fireplace, a lion skin rug, a tea table, and a chaise lounge. Beautiful tapa designs covered the walls. There were mats on the ground to walk on so that you didn't step on the original flooring.
Before we left, we hiked a trail to the waterfall where R.L.S. and his family bathed. We were allowed to wade in the water. R.L.S. built a dam and a flood gate so that he could control how deep the water got. Mom took a picture of us wading by the waterfall.
07/24/2010, Apia, Samoa
"Talofa" is the greeting here in Samoa. It is so nice to hear. We tied up at the dock around 10am on Thursday morning. We were greeted by Harbor Control and our offshore sailing instructor, John Neal who happened to be tied up with his boat, Mahina Tiare III, just across the dock. We had to stay aboard for a couple hours while our yellow quarantine flag was flying and various officials from Customs, Immigration, Health, and Quarantine all came by for a chat, paperwork, stamps and information. Each of the offices I listed have separate representatives with different forms. While we were waiting, John and his wife Amanda treated us to cold slices of watermelon and a local fruit salad. Amanda also performed her version of a Maori Haka (she is a New Zealander and a Haka is the Maori war dance.) She put on her red wig and Viking hat and danced along the dockside giving thekids quite a show - her passion for the Haka runs deep. Amanda and John also gave us some tips for getting about town and finding supplies and treated us to a feast of a breakfast the next morning. Mahina Tiare III is an HR46, so the kids got to see what a "real yacht" looks like inside. What a welcome.
Once we were free to leave the boat we headed into town for a little resort action at Aggie Gray's Hotel. Just down the street from the Apia Marina, Aggie Gray's hotel harkens back to the post-war era when Aggie began catering to GI's. She was supposedly the inspiration for the Bloody Mary character in South Pacific. She died a few years ago, but her spirit is alive in the hotel. Next Wed night we'll take the kids to dinner there for the dance show, but meanwhile, we've been invited to swim and relax by the pool anytime we want.
Today we visited the Robert Louis Stevenson (author of Treasure Island and many more works) home and museum. He and his family spent the last 4 years of his life in Samoa. He is buried on a hill above his home. His wife returned to the United States after his death, but once she died, her daughter brought her ashes back to Samoa so she is buried alongside RLS. Sophie is working on a blog post detailing the home, his life and our visit. So I'll leave the rest to her.
We then came back to the boat and tried to set up our transformer to get the batteries juiced up. It ran for 20 minutes until Finn and Freya yelled from above "Hey Dad, there's fire and smoke, the box is on fire!" Eric is kicking himself because he meticulously set the transformer for 220 instead of 240. He thinks he misheard the marina staff when we arrived. So now we have to run the engine to charge the batteries for a couple hours and we have to track down a new transformer. A hot situation.
This afternoon we'll snorkel at the nature preserve, tomorrow is Sunday so we'll attend the Catholic church service and hear amazing singing and Monday, Eric is off to officialdom to request permission for us to sail to the neighboring island of Savaii before we depart for Tonga. On Tuesday we signed up for an all-day tour of Manono Island, a tiny outer island in the straight between Upolu and Savaii. The kids will get a ferry boat ride, a local lunch, get to see how coconut milk is made and watch some women weave mats. It is a total touristy-tour with staged "local" situations, but what the heck. I am sure we'll meet some nice elderly Australians on holiday and have a relaxing day.
We've learned some valuable culture lessons already. We've been hustled a couple times, but now we can see it coming. Whenever fresh tourists arrive on shore, they stand out. White skin, sun hats, backpacks and all the while they are looking up and around to take in all the sights. This makes an easy mark and we were no exception with our three little ducks in a row. It starts out with a friendly hello, then a drawing you in with some story about an Auntie to lives in the States, or some relatives who lost everything in the Tsunami and they are helping them raise money, and then suddenly you've been hooked and have to get out of the situation with your money still in your pocket. No harm done and we can now see them coming a mile away. We've learned the "waving-off hand wave" and how to sing-song a disinterested "Talofa" so we can say hello and ignore them at the same time. The kids have found this fascinating. At first we started to call it the Samoan Hustle, but then realized that is quite unfair. It is just the hustle that happens in any big city, in Samoa or right at home, especially in cities often visited by tourists.
We have arrived in Samoa. We are all well but tired. We will make a proper update later.
The wind returned in spades and we are closing in on Apia, less than 100 miles to go. When the wind returned, we were too far out to get in Wednesday before sunset, so we actually had to slow the boat down to arrive after sunrise on Thursday. After pushing for speed for days, it just feels wrong.
The harbor in Apia is within easy walking distance of the restaurants and shops. It will be nice not to need a car. This time tomorrow I hope we are having pizza for lunch. (Local food will follow soon.) We are all ready for port.
This will be our longest passage of the trip, at 19 days. We will have covered over 5500 nautical miles of Ocean. Once in Samoa, our pace will slow. Our next several passages will be 1-4 days and we will take substantial time between them. I won't have as many boat projects, and we will focus on seeing the sites and meeting people. The next phase our our trip is about to begin.
Last night I wrote that it was hot.I was premature. We hadn't yet met today. This must be the hottest of our journey. The fans don't help that much because they just blow the hot air around like hairdryers. Not sure why the change, but Eric pointed out that the sea temp is a surprising 87 degrees!
The moon is high in the sky, bright and lingering a bit longer than last night. This is helpful. After the close encounter with the fishing boat today we need every bit of light to see what is coming on the horizon. Without the moonlight, it is virtually impossible.
Today I've been thinking about the joke about the guy who jumps out of the airplane without a parachute. He falls so many thousands of feet, and says that once he got to just ten feet from the ground he could simply jump from there. That is how I feel about this passage. We are within jumping distance after 2,000 miles.
Eric and I just switched watches. We are both so exhausted that he is sound asleep already and I'm only on this paragraph.
We must constantly manage our fatigue. There isn't a way to eliminate it, despite the naps we each take during the day. We just can't get enough hours at one time. It effects us in ways we sometimes don't realize. For example, I might start crying in the middle of the day while I am cranking in a reef on the headsail. No other reason than just being bone weary. Every hour we make a log entry, noting the wind direction and speed, weather features, lat/long, etc. There is a comments section where we write "saw a ship" "squall passed by" or something like that. Eric came on watch last night and was reading through my previous 3 hours of log entries and asked, "what does 'mugs of water' mean?" How should I know? I have no idea why I wrote that, but I do clearly remember writing it down. This is the kind of bizarre behavior that fatigue brings about. The log entry goof up is benign, but when it comes to managing the sails, making decisions about course line in relation to ships and squalls, we've got to make sure we are making logical choices.
In preparation for Samoa, Sophie has been a cleaning busy body. Finn however is breaking down. He needs to run around and get the energy out. It is bottled up inside and explodes from time to time. Freya has tried on her various bathing suits (most of them hand-me downs and that is why she has far too many) over and over again.
For those of you who heard us talk about our travel plans, you may recall we included French Polynesia, the Cook Islands and Niue on our agenda at first. We would have loved to visit these areas but when it came down to it, we just don't have the time. When we explained our itinerary to sailors who'd traveled the South Pacific before they'd say, "you've just described a 3-year trip." And they were right. There just isn't time enough to cover the great distances and find time to spend in port long enough to make it worth a stop. The leaving again is such a chore. So, we decided that given our personal time frame we needed to take a short cut and head directly for Samoa, getting the major ocean miles out of the way first, allowing us to take 2-3 weeks in Samoa, Tonga, Fiji and New Caledonia each before heading to Bundaberg, Australia. It was a hard decision to pass by so many beautiful islands, but we think this will give us time to linger, relax and make friends in the places we will visit.
Specifically, we are headed to (Western) Samoa. It is just called Samoa now, but is to be distinguished from American Samoa to the East. There are two major islands, Upolu and Savaii. We will first head to the town of Apia on Upolu where we'll check in with customs and hang out for a week or two. We'll visit Robert Louis Stevenson's house, hike to some waterfalls, etc. Then we'll head over to Savaii, which is less touristed, and anchor is some bays and hopefully meet people from more remote villages. From what we've read, the port of Pago Pago (pronounced Pango Pango) in American Samoa is not such a great place so we'll take a pass on that port and forgo the western supermarkets.