25 February 2015 | Puerta Galera, Mindoro island
07 February 2015 | Pinoy Boatyard Port Carmen
03 April 2014 | Port Carmen, Cebu Island
05 March 2014 | Anini-Y, Panay Island
30 July 2012
25 July 2012 | Miri to K-K
22 July 2012 | 04 23.07'N:113 58.34'E
18 June 2012 | Terengganu, East Malaysia
01 June 2012 | Tioman Island
28 March 2011 | Langkawu, Malaysia
14 March 2011 | Port Blair
06 March 2011
24 January 2011 | Nai Harn, Thailand
07 April 2009 | Langkawi
23 March 2009 | Thailand
02 March 2009 | Phuket, Thailand
09 February 2009 | Rebak marina, Malaysia
01 June 2008 | Wood Norton
28 February 2008

Sailing Again!

25 February 2015 | Puerta Galera, Mindoro island
The Normanton's arrival was our saving grace, deadlines are a necessity that sometimes prove a blessing!
The night before their arrival, we were up at 0100 to catch the last high tide for 10 days, and extricate ourselves from the spider's web of lines that crossed the 'dirty dock'. The chaps from the yard moved the intricate array of mooring lines, while the Republic Dry Dock had to get their blokes to move an enormous rusting hulk that blocked our exit. In the moonlight we crept through a tiny gap between two ships which towered over us, releasing us to relative freedom!
We tied up in front of the lovely Yacht Club building, so that when the Normantons arrived at 7 a.m. to wake us, they were initially under the illusion we had been in such a nice spot all along! This was quickly dispelled when they saw our thilthy decks and the fine black sand blasting dust that coated everything, in spite of my best efforts.
We now had a trickle of running water, so after breakfast they were set to work to scrub the decks!
Our plan to leave the next morning on the midday tide was rapidly changed when we met Zeke in the Danao market, who told us that our long awaited inverter had just arrived! He whizzed Giles back to Brother Wind on the back of his bike, and they set about organising Tony the electrician to come up from Cebu City early next morning. Meanwhile, we diverted Lando from the boat next door, to help fit the inverter in place, and put the new cupboard catch on the computer cupboard, which the Normantons had brought out.
Simon and Pippa were very relaxed and understanding about the delay, luckily they had a 5 week break and no particular itinerary, and were happy with the breezy Yacht Club and catching up on wi-fi. They begun to understand that although we had been in a pretty grim place, where else can you say to Alex the stainless steel fabricator, 'we need a new fairlead', and next day he has copied the others and made us one! There were many other similar small triumphs that we finally resolved!
By lunch time on the 10th February, almost 6 weeks since we got back to Brother Wind, we finally set sail!!
We had a lovely fast sail, impressing Simon with 7.9 knots (very unusual), and anchored at the south end of Pacijan Island, tucked around a little headland with nobody in sight. We were straight into the water for a swim before dark fell, and basked in a sense of release and well-being .
We had inevitably left Pinoy Boat Yard in rather un-seamanlike style, with a lot of stowing and making ship-shape to do, so after a late start by our standards, we weighed anchor at 08.30, and headed on to Leyte Island, and the small port of Polompon. It was Pippa's first trip to the Far East, so she was fascinated by the stilt village built over the water, while the rest of the town was a typical busy bustling place with motor bikes, motor-tricycles and trikeshaws everywhere, as well as a few jeepneys, the local minibus, usually very colourful, and often with people on the roof as well. As usual, we walked around in a cacophony of 'hellos', and 'what are you doing'!
We awoke next morning to find that our anchor had dragged, and we were caught up by a banka (the local boat). Actually just as well, as we might have gone rather a long way onto the muddy shallows!
When we got to San Isidro, further north in Leyte Island, we decided to do a foray into the interior, and cross the northern peninsular on which it sits to get to the east coast and cross to another interesting sounding island on that side.
I had assumed that there would be jeepneys running, but their timing tends to tie in with work times, so we accepted a ride on a couple of motor bikes, Giles and I pillion behind one chap and the Normantons behind another. It was 16 kms of climbing, windy roads, and then down the other side, and apart from the agony of legs too long to go happily on foot rests, it was a good ride. Once, there our driver found a banka who would take us across to Bileran island on the other side of the lagoon. Then more pillion rides on motorbikes, this time with built in roofs over our heads, and on we went to Caibiran water fall. The main joy of which was swimming in the gorgeous fresh water pool at the bottom. Bileran was very scenic, with paddy fields and water buffalo, and the whole journey was a fun way of seeing some of the interior.
Next day we sailed NW towards the large boomerang shaped island of Mabate. There were no obvious anchorages, so we thought we would try a tiny island on its SE, called Guinauay. We anchored just off the reef and fish traps there, and almost immediately a banka came out to greet us, eager that we should go and visit their island. Hilarious guide book dictionary language and much gesticulation, and we thought that we had arranged for them to come back in a couple of hours, giving us time to swim. Sure enough an hour and a half later there they were to fetch us ashore!
It was a truly 'royal' reception, hundreds of children lined the shore to see us, and lots of adults too. The local Captain of the Baringay (elected head of the community), was summonsed, and took us on a walk around the island, accompanied by everyone! The captain and one or two others spoke reasonable English, and we gathered that in this tiny community there were 3,000 people, and 500 school age children. The soil was mostly sand, which made growing vegetables almost impossible, so apart from a few banana trees and coconuts, they lived off fish, and some people crossed to Masbate to work in the local town, and to sell fish at the market there. There was no running water, it all had to be collected from one pump, and that was unfit for drinking.
A week had flown by sine the Normanton's arrival, and they decided to jump ship in Manoan in SW Masbate, where we managed to get a jeepney into the main town an hour and a half away. We thought we would accompany them to see some of the island, whose speciality is grazing cattle. In May they have rodeo competitions, so they also have horses! All very unusual from the normal rice paddies and water buffalo, which they also have.
We were keen to move on to the Romblon group of islands, Sibuyan, Tablas and Romblon, and had an easy sail to the dramatically mountainous island of Sibuyan next day, where we anchored off the SW. Unfortunately we didn't get ashore here, which was a pity, as the island boasts five mammal species that are unique to the island, (not that we would have either seen or recognised them!)
However, our visas were a week away from expiring, and we read the erroneous details about immigration in the tourist island of Borocay, and decided we needed to get there for one of the alleged two days of the week it would be open!
To get to Boracay we were amazed by crossing quite a lot of commercial shipping, which put our new AIS to very good use. Usually our lookout duties are for the quantities of fishing buoys often a long way from shore, which can make watch keeping tedious. We cut through the narrow Tabon Strait at the south end of Boracay, and as we emerged on the SW corner of the island, an alarm went up from the engine. The fan belt had been making squeaky noises, so we guessed that was our problem, and luckily we unfurled enough genoa to sail gently into some shallow water near the ferry jetty, and dropped the anchor. We quickly got the dinghy out and me ashore to go and find immigration, while Giles remained on board to fit a new fan belt.
Eventually I had all the right photographs and passport copies to satisfy the chaotic little office, and they agreed to do a rush job and have our passports ready for collection next day; a bit of an act of faith, as they wouldn't give me any kind of receipt for the passports. Meanwhile we moved to a very busy anchorage, amongst lots of tourist boats, and a couple of yachts! Certainly our lumpiest and most uncomfortable anchorage so far this trip. The bonus was watching the fast local paraws trimerans like bankas, racing each other in the sunset.
Next day was the eve of Chines New Year, so after restocking, looking at the tourist tat and collecting passports, we ventured back ashore for a blustery and choppy dinghy ride, and enjoyed a delicious Chinese New Year buffet, which coincided with the first day of our Lenten abstinence!
We were pleased to see the back of busy Borocay, and headed off to the huge natural harbour of Looc on the SW side of Tablas island. Although it was a national holiday for Chinese New year, the market ashore was still operating, and after snorkelling on their protected reef, we had a delightful walk ashore up a sylvan fertile valley where small plots of vegetables, rice and fruit were being unusually well tended. Our path at one stage was lined with Pac choi growing. We were inevitably joined by some children for some of the walk.
Next day was windy, and we had to make our way northwards, which proved an ordeal, and a memory of last year! We fought our way up the Tablas Strait, hoping to go around the north and drop down to Romblon Island, instead of which we battled for 10 hours, motor sailing against 25 knots of wind and steep seas, and unable to make it round the top of Tablas island, we headed for a deep bay at the south end of Maestre de Campo Island, relieved and exhausted to get there before dark.
Romblon was still on our 'must go' list, so next day we back tracked with a nice beam reach for the 40 miles back to the island. We certainly did not regret it, and spent 3 enjoyable nights there on a mooring supplied by the embryonic Yacht Club.
We hired a motorbike and spent a day going around the island, mostly on very bumpy stony roads, met up with local ex pats, and spent a happy evening chatting with ex yachties who live on the island. Romblon is unique in the Philippines as they quarry, and make and shape marble. Inevitably we bought a few small bits, but the weight does not make it an ideal thing to transport. We were very tempted to import some home, as some of the pieces are lovely.
Time to press on, and last night found us in an open anchorage, off the island of Marinduque watching the tiny local fishing boats head off to sea for the night with sails stitched together from old umbrellas, they all wanted to say hello as they sailed by.
Now we are en route to Puerta Galera, where for once we will find a yachtie honeypot. From here we are planning a foray to Manila to collect a float switch which has been languishing for almost a year, and perhaps in spite of all the dire warnings against it we ought to have the Manila experience to get a better overview of the Philippines!

Back again

07 February 2015 | Pinoy Boatyard Port Carmen
Our arrival back to Cebu, Philippines on New Year’s Eve, laden with new electronic kit was an unforeseen stroke of genius. The scrum of people bearing boxes and packages, meant that customs appeared to have an unofficial embargo. Instead of signing declarations of import, everyone was just waived through to alleviate the bun fight!
After an amusing night on Mactan island near the airport, watching distant fireworks from our window, and much nearer ad hoc ones jumping from the street below, we were pleased that we had got back to the hotel before firecrackers started bursting at our feet.
An hours taxi ride next day, and back on board Brother Wind, we surveyed the progress or not that the yard had made.
The sum total of 8 months away seemed to be a tiny bit of varnishing!
But worse discoveries were to come. We noticed that Brother Wind was rather low in the water, and closer inspection revealed that the bilges were almost full! The carpet in the main saloon was sodden, and our lovely floor was water damaged!
After some immediate pumping, we got the electrics on and the automatic bilge pump working. This should have been left on but wasn’t. Wet carpet was removed, and after a bit of sorting a cup of tea seemed the next thing.
However, our problems had only just revealed themselves, when we saw various munched up and shredded packets in one of the cupboards it became apparent that we had mice on board!
Three days later, I just about got to the end of the mouse devastation, they had found a way into every conceivable nook and cranny, and almost all of our lockers, and eaten the inedible. Tetra packs of milk and coconut milk were munched through, these had then spilled and maggots had ensued! A favourite skirt was eaten, ear rings and necklaces from far flung Pacific islands had been chewed, many were made of nuts or seeds, loo roll and tin foil was shredded, and nests made in shoes or inside other rolls. Weirdly new boxes of cockroach traps had been consumed, the bait was clearly highly desirable. All in all you name it the mice had been there. The only good thing was that they had not got much food, as I never leave rice, flour or pasta on board because of weevils, but the odd and rare pack of raisins had been eaten.
The new little vacuum cleaner that I had given Giles and just brought out from home was christened with a million mouse droppings! We laid a sticky trap, and caught one tiny mouse. A week later, when we had caught nothing else, we had to conclude that there was only one mouse, which had successfully wreaked such devastation, but 8 months is a long time…..
Meanwhile we did get some chaps working on the outside, putting back our stainless steel rubbing strake, which has been off for years, and not only looked a mess but a tube of the stainless had cluttered our decks up too. That is now looking very smart! While Giles and I worked down below threading wires, we also managed to get Rolando the carpenter to make up a smart new infill panel, where the old radar had left a gaping hole, and then he moved on to doing some long overdue and much discussed changes to our computer cupboard, which has always been a disgrace of wires and plastic boxes and a printer balanced on a box!
Meanwhile we moved Brother Wind against a wall where she could dry out and allow us to drill a large hole in her bottom to fit the new transducer for the new echo sounder and log! It is always a worrying business as the tide comes back in and one watches nervously for any leaks, by which time you are in any case committed to another 12 hours before the tide has dropped enough to access the hole again.
Giles went up and down the mast numerous times, moving the old wind vane, and installing the new, pulling new wires through, and fitting a new masthead light, the old one having blown up in our electrical burst last year. The old radar dome was removed from half way up the mast, and the new one fitted, after Alex the stainless steel whizz had remodelled it . The huge fat cable for the radar eventually came out and the new one was tugged in with a mouse line, and much struggling.
A new GPS aerial was installed eventually and a new AIS fitted. Things too numerous to count have been wired and most of them ‘speak’ to each other, although combining the new with the old has presented a few problems, and the intricacies of the wiring have involved much head scratching.
So time has slipped through our grimy fingers, and the month we had allocated for this and other repairs has vanished, and we are still not quite good to go!
I have made it sound like a pleasant and productive month, but it hasn’t felt like that! The environment we are in is anything but pleasant, we are sandwiched in a shipyard, with huge boats towering above us being repaired, this involves a lot of sandblasting, and as we are downwind of them, we are constantly covered in black dust, which goes everywhere. There is no running water, just an intermittent supply, to some old oil drums, so I am endlessly carting water buckets to try to keep both us and the boat clean!
As ever we are saved by the charm and friendliness of the locals, and a few stray yachties, who have moans and problems of their own.
Luckily we have a deadline of friends from Norfolk arriving on Sunday, so for better or worse, we will have to be good to go, slightly worrying, as our new invertor hasn’t arrived from the U.S. yet.
Hey Ho!, the Normantons are arriving tomorrow, and it looks like we’ll set off without the inverter, but luckily they are scooping up a Whale hand bilge pump we were also waiting for , and without which we would be foolish to go, they are also the bearers of various 12 volt laptop chargers, which are a necessity with no inverter.
We await the tide at midnight tonight to get the guys on board to extricate us from the spiders web of lines here, and hopefully get around the rusting hulks currently blocking our way out!
I cannot believe a life of no sand blasting and dust awaits us. Happy Sailing!

The Big Bang!

03 April 2014 | Port Carmen, Cebu Island
Having got ourselves to the bottom end of Panay island, and given ourselves a well earned day off, our next hop was north east along the straight, which separates Panay island from Negros.
As usual it was blowing about 35 kts. Athough we had only30 miles to go, and had the tide with us, the sea was short, steep and choppy, so motor sailing was the only option if we wanted to get there in daylight. On our first attempt the engine stopped circulating cooling water, which is one of its tricks, and we returned to the bay to sort ourselves out.
The following day we set off again in the dark of early morning. The wind often gets up with the sun, so we reckoned on a couple of peaceful hours chugging north before battle commenced. We were hardly out of the bay and settled down, avoiding a large fishing boat on the way, when bang, we were plunged into darkness!
A scramble for torches followed, not before we grabbed the helm, as Freddie the auto pilot was also out of action! Giles went down below, and turned on a light switch to see if everything had blown, a terrifying loud bang ensued as a bulb exploded. It seemed an eternity before he said 'yes I am alright', I was busy steering and couldn't see.
The whole boat stank with the smell of electrical burning and melted plastic, and once Giles got to the main breaker he found the whole unit had melted and exploded. The metal working parts were scattered around the cabin floor. He turned off all other electric breakers, and we heaved a sigh of relief, we were not on fire, but what on earth had happened??
We continued motoring along until dawn arrived an hour later, and we could at least see what was going on. Luckily I had memorised the first part of the passage, and knew there were no nasty reefs to catch us, and we were making quite good headway motor sailing by now.
Once there was daylight, Giles went through the twenty switches on our instrument panel, and we realised that everything that had been turned on had blown. As it was dark this was all our navigation lights, our auto helm, the charger for the laptop, which runs my navigation program, and our B & G Network, GPS, depth sounder, wind and log, and we later found out that the fridge had blown up and the inverter, which wasn't even on.
The nearest place to get to was the island of Guemeras, which lies between Panay and Negros. Going into any bay without the echo sounder to give us depth, is undesirable, but the bay of Santa Ana, with the sun high in the sky, enabling us to see the reefs well, was very straightforward, even though we had no idea of the depth beneath us in the transparent water. We dropped anchor once we had rounded the headland and moved into shelter, thinking it looked shallow, so we didn't put out too much chain, meanwhile I set about making up a plumb line.
Giles set about playing with our electronics to see if anything could be salvaged, and together we worked out that we could use the daisy chain wiring system to bypass the GPS, and miraculously having done that we got the Depth back!
The echo sounder is almost the most important instrument that we have, and as we have a spare GPS probably the most important. So much for thinking it was shallow, we had anchored in 17 metres! After an afternoon fiddling with electrics a sortie ashore to find a meal found us in pitch black heading for a few shore lights, and what had looked like a resort in daylight. Unsure where to land, and finding the quay half collapsed, we went to another light where people appeared to be barbequing, and asked if we could land there. To cut a long story short, we ended up enjoying a delicious meal with a house-party of people who were away for a couple of nights 'bonding' from work, they all spoke brilliant English, as they worked in a call centre!!
Next day we felt better about heading on to the capital of Panay, Iloilo, and going up river, although it might have saved us the worry of the 2.6 metre entrance had we not known the depth! We motored upriver past the ferries and commercial boats, until we found the Coastguards, and asked them if we could tie up alongside. They were a bit perplexed, but proved charming, and we explained that we had an electrical problem, so they dug out their lovely electrician, who came to have a look at our melt down.
He explained that the switch had somehow crossed the contacts, which is why our big bang had happened. We had replaced said switch in Malaysia in 2012, when we had a black out, and Giles had a spare, as he had worried about the 'made in China' label on it!
We spent two days tied up alongside the Coastguards, trying to find various bits and pieces to enable us to become a well found yacht again, simple things like 12 volt light bulbs for the navigation lights, proved very hard to find, we were luckier with fuses, and highly relieved when we found in amongst the complexity of our brand new auto helm a little 4 amp fuse had blown, and once we had managed to replace it, it worked!
I was rather keen to go and do a bit of culture, so left Giles to his wiring and caught a bus out into the sticks, in fact several buses and the local communal jeep called a jeepney. I managed to get to five different churches, the most famous one is a world heritage sight at Miag-ao, built in beautiful mellow sandstone in the 18th C. Many of the churches are built of coral.
It took me most of the day, but I felt that I had to make the effort to get to the furthest flung, St. Joaquin, in honour of my son-in-law Joachim!
We had a fascinating time in one of the outskirts of Iloilo, where we had gone looking for old Spanish houses, and in our quest for one of them ended up in an extraordinary oasis of decaying dilapidated grandeur, sadly beset by noisy roads whizzing by. We climbed up the grand steps to the front door, under a balcony that looked ready to shed its balustrade straight onto us, and walked into the hall, whereupon at the top of the staircase a Miss Faversham figure appeared with wild hair and transparent nightgown, asking what we wanted! Actually we were looking for Nelly Garden Mansion, which when we found it was equally fascinating. We insisted to the guards at the gate that they should call up and ask if we could look around, and the owner duly gave us a tour of the house.
This house was in perfect condition, and had only been built in 1900, but the use of local hardwoods, which had resisted termites, was fabulous. The décor was very Chinese, and the design spacious and airy. The man who had built it had hosted many parties, and counted lots of politicans amongst his guests, including the infamous Imelda Marcos.
Both these houses and the decaying colonial opulence of Jaro suburb gave us a real sense of an affluent past which is hard to detect in the present day Philippines.
We were rather sad to say farewell to our band of coastguard neighbours. They had not been out of harbour in three months, so we felt it unlikely that they would have many of the skills we might ever need in an emergency!
The coast to the north of Iloilo is dotted with islands and reefs, but having left early, we had gone 55 miles, and still had enough light to find our way into a beautiful anchorage dominated by Pan de Azucar or Sugar Loaf mountain, a steep even hill, which looks the same from every direction, and turned the most wonderful shades of pink and blue as the sun set.
As is often the way, when the sun was up next morning and the tide was low, we realised quite how many reefs we had avoided, we had neatly circuited one and tucked ourselves inshore of it. From here we moved on to the Gigantes islands, where the white sand spit could be a day trip for intrepid tourists. The remains of a concrete house stood on the spit and a few ramshackle huts provided shelter for the inhabitants. Although their English was non-existent we gathered that super typhoon Hayan last December had totally decimated their homes, and the ensuing surge had gone straight over everything that remained.
They were remarkably cheerful, and we were delighted that they should charge us a paltry amount for snorkelling over their coral patch.
One of the reasons for coming north was to get a better angle for crossing the top end of Negros Island and getting around the north end of Cebu Island, and hopefully get a good sail. We had had some decent sailing getting north, albeit hard on the wind, but once we had planned for wind, it decided to have a day off, and only gave us about 12 kts. We got to Malapascua Island in time to find some rather unlikely shelter.
On Leyte Island, the small town of Isabel was sobering in the extreme. This town is on the leeward side of the island where most of the damage from super Typhoon Hyan had hit Tacloban the capital. They had suffered enough, but without the surge and flooding that Tacloban got. The market still had no roof, but cheery people were using the building all the same, improvising with umbrellas and canvas, several houses looked beyond repair, while many others had new roofs or were in the process of constructing them. Two large cargo boats had sunk in the big harbour, and a huge crane was on its side, while a vast roofless warehouse at the harbour entrance part of a copper smelting process looked out of action.
The locals were astonished to see us when we walked ashore, but extremely friendly, and we spent as much money with them as we could manage, they are admirably resilient. Next morning when we were weighing anchor early, a small Bangka paddled out to see us with some necklaces to sell. I duly bought some, and he told us about the typhoon, which had flattened his house, and how he had had to crawl through the rubble to rescue his six month old baby.
It is thirty miles to cross the stretch of water that separates Leyte from Cebu, where we had arranged to leave Brother Wind for 10 days in Port Carmen at Zekes yard, while we went to Hong Kong. Port Carmen is as tricky an entrance as you could wish for, and having negotiated the initial approach, and been warned by friends in the yard how a lot of yachts end up drying out on the reef, we called up Zeke, who sent out one of his workers in a little Bangka to guide us in. We still didn't realise what we were coming to, - a very narrow inlet with stone walls, where mooring lines were strung right across the dock. These were carefully negotiated and we ended up squashed in between an American and French boat.
Apart from the dirt of being next to a boat which is being sanded down, and the dust from the nearby road, it appears to be a good facility, and the first yachts we have seen since those at anchor in Puerta Princessa 750 nm ago!
Zeke is a tonic of 'can do', an American sailor who sold his boat and set up the boat yard, and a very smart 'club house' on stilts. He has a lot of workers beavering away, and although reports say that they need supervising, it seems a good facility for some things, although reputedly getting any spares in the Philippines is a nightmare of variable import duties, and bribery.
We have a problem with our bilge pump, which is no longer automatic, and as water is leaking in fast from our engine shaft seal, we requires lots of pumping out. In some form or shape we need to dry out, and as the facilities are minimal, either a wall to lean against for a tide, or a cradle which we hope is strong enough, the latter seems a better option. The thought of racing against time to pull our shaft out and reset before the tide comes in again, sounds like too much of an adrenalin trip. Meanwhile, Zeke has promised that his chaps will come and run the bilge pump once or twice a day as required to make sure we are still afloat after our trip to Hong Kong!!

Vessel Name: Brother Wind
Vessel Make/Model: Island Packet 45
Hailing Port: Blakeney, Norfolk UK
Crew: Jo and Giles Winter
About: Rolling selection of friends and family
Brother Wind's Photos - Jo and Giles round the world on Brother Wind (Main)
Photos 1 to 4 of 4
IMG_0754: Brother Wind in Sydney Harbour
Sailing again
31 Photos
Created 25 February 2015
10 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 5 March 2014
A trip up the Kinabatangan River in Brother Wind, with brother Jamie, wife Mel, and daughter Izzy
40 Photos
Created 23 August 2012
Jamie,Mel and Issy Cooper joined us in K-K, Sabah, for a dramatic trip north and then stunning islands followed by a trip up the Kinabatangan river
27 Photos
Created 12 August 2012
40 Photos
Created 22 July 2012
28 Photos
Created 21 June 2012
our trip back to Langkawi from the Andamans, with Mike and Laurian Cooper on board
15 Photos
Created 28 March 2011
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Created 28 March 2011
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Created 7 April 2009
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Created 2 March 2009
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Created 28 February 2008
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Created 25 July 2007
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Created 25 July 2007
Passage Brisbane north to Whitsundays
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Created 8 June 2007
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Created 24 May 2007
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Created 8 May 2007
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Created 2 May 2007
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Created 2 May 2007
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20 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 9 March 2007
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Created 1 December 2006