The Salvage Islands - Extreme Remote Anchoraging
12 October 2008 | Selvegen Grande Island, Middle of Nowhere!
Graham
Where might you ask are the Selvegen Islands? Also known as the Salvage Islands, they are a small group of islands 170 Nm south of Madeira, and about 130 miles north west of Lanzarote, Canaries. To be precise therefore, they appear to be in the middle of nowhere, as in fact do we at the moment as we are anchored here. We have seen no other shipping or boats now for 2 days, and with the exception of 4 dolphins swimming with us as we approached the islands, we have seen very little sea life either. Although not as nasty weather as the Gibraltar to Porto Santo trip, the combination of swell and wide direction made for a very uncomfortable first day's sailing. Today however, the sea calmed down and we had a good sail for about 12 hours before the wind dropped forcing us to put the engine on. We had to reach the islands in daylight as anchoring here in the dark is described as 'nearly impossible'. Ho Ho Ho! We arrived here just in time for sunset, saw a great big free mooring buoy in the centre of the small bay and tied up on it. Just about to crack open the Rioja we had been saving for the occasion, when the VHF radio crackled into life. We were informed by the Selvegen Islands warden that the buoy belonged to the Portuguese and that we could not use it. And guess what; it was now dark! The small bay is full of rocks, breaking swell from the Atlantic, and poor holding for the anchor. The use of satellite navigation and the chart plotter, with help from a nearly full moon, saved the day somewhat and after several attempts, we settled the anchor into a spot that looked like we were safe from swinging into rocks overnight. A fine celebratory stew from Bongo soon improved morale no end. An anchor watch would be required, 2 hours on each, ensuring that the anchor did not drag. A quick check of a new alternator holding bolt before bed and....yes....it had sheared off again. Tools out, engine compartment open, and by 1am, a bodge job had been completed that will hopefully last us to Lanzarote where we need to get some specialist help to remove the remains of the bolt from the engine block again. This second one would just not budge. Morale decreasing rapidly, tools away, off to bed/anchor watch. I am just watching sunrise over the islands as I type this and last night's events are in the dim and distant past. If we get the chance today and can get the dinghy ashore, we will visit the wardens and see some of the unusual bird life here for which these islands are famous for.