06/29/2011, Kwatna Inlet off Burke Channel
We awoke at 0445 with the idea of getting to Bella Coola before the wind piped up. First, when we collected our crab pot, there were 12 crabs in it; we kept the biggest three, and threw the lucky ones back. Then we headed out into Dean Channel to find the wind was already blowing 15 knots. The Cruising Guide warned that Bella Coola's wind made it probably the most difficult marina to enter and negotiate around. They recommended fenders on all sides. Nope; not this time. So we went sailing jib and jigger into the wind and rain pretty much all day heading down Burke Channel. The rain clouds were a constant mist in the mountains on either side of this glacial fiord, feeding the waterfalls and teasing us with spectacular views. While taking all this in, we had 30+ Pacific White-sided Dolphins come visit us as we sailed. It was the same area that we saw nearly 100 dolphins in 2007 while returning from Alaska.
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06/28/2011, Eucott Cove off Dean Channel
Waking up to rain, we worked on boat projects including tightening the V-belt for the alternator since noticing the alternator was not charging. Everything's fine now. We left Ocean Falls in a break in the rain, but soon were caught up in it, with visibility down to a quarter mile at times. We viewed the point where Sir Alexander MacKenzie finished his trip from east to west across Canada by land 22 July 1793 (before Lewis and Clark's epic trip!). Then since it was raining we went up Cascade Inlet which is known for its waterfalls, and observed several to our delight! Now in Eucott Cove, tomorrow we head for Bella Coola.
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06/27/2011, Ocean Falls, BC
Ocean Falls had 5000 citizens when the Crown Zellerbach operation was in full swing. But after the plant closed in 1983, people left in droves, with only 40 remaining. The federal government came in and leveled most of the dwellings and made sure that the plant site was cleaned up. Now the town is still known for its dam, hydropower, and electricity that serves other communities such as Bella Bella and Shearwater. The dock we are moored to was just replaced by the feds, and is in gorgeous shape. Huge treated timbers: 12x4s and 6x6s. The town sits on an inlet with fiord written all over it: streams pouring down off the snow fields in the high mountains, forests with remnants of previous clearcuts, and deep inlet waters.
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06/26/2011, Shearwater Marina, BC
Do you know how much garbage you can accumulate in 7 days? Three bags full. Do you know how much dirty laundry you can generate in 7 days? Two duffel bags full! We had lunch and dinner ashore. Yummy cherry pie! We reprovisioned (although we wouldn't have starved). We made cell phone calls to loved ones. And we caught up on e-mails with the help of WiFi. Did I mention that with AC power we watched a DVD tonight (Finding Neverland)? Shearwater Marina has everything we need.
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06/25/2011, Spitfire Inlet, BC
Our forward head became stopped up, so today was 'fix the head day'. Five hours later I felt I had wrestled the beast. Boat projects always occur in small, isolated, hard-to-get-to places. If they were in the middle of the salon on the table, it probably would have taken 45 minutes max! Ugh. At least it's done, and the boat has been cleaned up in the process. One of life's best feelings is when a project is over with!
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06/24/2011, Spitfire Inlet, BC
Five Sea Otters curiously observed us passing in our dinghy. We slowed and stopped, then watched them slowly pass by us 100' away constantly looking at us as they went. Curious, maybe untrusting. We could see their whiskers through our binoculars, and also their whimsical facial expressions. These were big animals, no pups in view. They were heading to some kelp beds to feed, and ultimately bed down for the night, wrapping themselves up in the kelp leaves and sleeping on their backs nicely camouflaged.
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