06/20/2012, Shearwater Marina, BC
Weighing anchor in Haida Gwaii at 0430 Tuesday morning, we finally moored 17-1/2 hours later after traveling 111 miles to Shearwater Marina on the Mainland. Winds were SW 3-8 knots so we motored. The predominant swell was also from the southwest. We both are feeling our sea legs after the constant motion all day long. Sue reminded me that as we pulled up our anchor chain, our anchor bow roller makes a metal on metal sound that excites the sandhill cranes if they are in the area which they were at that early hour. It's always a delight to hear them respond. It's good to be here!
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06/18/2012, Heater Harbor, Kunghit Island, Gwaii Haanas, BC
By far, Anthony Island is the best 'Watchman Site' in Gwaii Haanas! There are at least fifteen mortuary poles still standing in various stages of deterioration. But there are many recognizable figures to enjoy: grizzly bear and two cubs, wolf, raven, eagle, and so forth. Shirley and Jordan were the Watchmen at the site. As Jordan led us through the site, he mentioned he was one of the first Watchmen starting 30 years ago in 1981. His archeological education assisted his knowledge and presentation. It is obvious that Anthony Island deserves to be a World Heritage Site. As we left Anthony Island, we kept looking for birds, and to our delight we saw two tufted puffins in the water near Adams Rock, and later two horned puffins resting on Flat Top Island!! It is always difficult to spot them. Many times they are out at sea, and are very illusive. Tonight we are in Heater Harbour. We have readied the boat for traveling back to the Mainland. Since the trip is 100 miles, we plan on starting at 0430. At an average speed of 6 knots, we will need about 17 hours to cross. The conditions will be light winds and calm seas, so the crossing should be pleasant. We are heading back to Shearwater for fuel, water, provisions, laundry, and garbage disposal!
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06/18/2012, Heater Harbor, Kunghit Island, Gwaii Haanas, BC
By far, Anthony Island is the best 'Watchman Site' in Gwaii Haanas! There are at least fifteen mortuary poles still standing in various stages of deterioration. But there are many recognizable figures to enjoy: grizzly bear and two cubs, wolf, raven, eagle, and so forth. Shirley and Jordan were the Watchmen at the site. As Jordan led us through the site, he mentioned he was one of the first Watchmen starting 30 years ago in 1981. His archeological education assisted his knowledge and presentation. It is obvious that Anthony Island deserves to be a World Heritage Site. As we left Anthony Island, we kept looking for birds, and to our delight we saw two tufted puffins in the water near Adams Rock, and later two horned puffins resting on Flat Top Island!! It is always difficult to spot them. Many times they are out at sea, and are very illusive. Tonight we are in Heater Harbour. We have readied the boat for traveling back to the Mainland. Since the trip is 100 miles, we plan on starting at 0430. At an average speed of 6 knots, we will need about 17 hours to cross. The conditions will be light winds and calm seas, so the crossing should be pleasant. We are heading back to Shearwater for fuel, water, provisions, laundry, and garbage disposal!
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06/18/2012, Louscoone Inlet, Moresby Island, Gwaii Haanas, BC
Weighing anchor at 0800 after talking with Darlene on the Great Northern Boater's Net, we traveled 27 miles to a sheltered anchorage in Louscoone Inlet. It rained most of the day in a fine mist. We observed birds as much as possible with two highlights: four ancient murrelets and one red-necked grebe. After anchoring we delved into a cooking project of chocolate chip cookies!! Dinner was a nicely done spaghetti dinner. Card games and reading closed out the evening. But the sunset sky was clearing and pink on the mirror-glass water around us. Tomorrow should be a great day to visit the 'Watchman Site' at Anthony Island!
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06/16/2012, Collison Bay, Moresby Island, Gwaii Haanas, BC
Yesterday was a stormy, rainy day and night. This morning was shrouded in fog and heavy mist. But we decided to explore the nearby Barnaby Narrows to see its marine biology treasures as much as we could see in these conditions. The tannic-acid tainted water and the gray conditions hid much of the treasure chest. But we did see red rock crabs, purple star fish, orange hydra-like animals, bat stars, other smaller varieties of starfish, plumous anemones, sea worms, eel grass, several different types of kelp, geoyduck rings, and numerous bi- valves. The harbor seal, 2 bald eagles, and four black-tail deer also thrilled us along the way. After lunch and listening to a weather report, we weighed anchor and motored, then sailed (in SW 20 knot, gustting to 34 knot winds) to Collison Bay where Sue recommended a spot outside the wind and rain at the head of the bay, and in a sheltered side bay with sunshine.
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06/16/2012, Bag Harbour, Moresby Island, Gwaii Haanas, BC
This time the weatherman got it right! Every report for days was saying gale force winds were coming Friday afternoon over the general area. We left Poole Inlet early to get close into Burnaby Narrows where some fantastic marine biology viewing can be had for the observer. But the viewing will wait until tomorrow. As we came, the winds came up to SE20 knots, then subsided only to return and gust in our Bag Harbour anchorage to SE25-30. It's been raining steadily and blowing in this 'protected anchorage' all day. So we spent our anniversary reading, playing cards, and having great meals prepared by Sue. In the afternoon we heard VHF reports of kayakers waiting to get picked up in the rain at the end of their travels, and others launching their trip in deluge conditions! We are grateful to be warm and dry in 'Julia Max'.
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