06/26/2012, Sea Otter Inlet, BC
As we managed to head south, we enjoyed beautiful weather and calm waters that make water bird observation easy. In these parts we tended to stay near shore so that we could observe features such as avalanche slides, tide water species, views up the glacial valleys to the numerous snow peaks, a logging company's activity, and so forth. For tonight we are nestled in to Sea Otter Inlet in a marine conservation area where we hope to do more exploration in tomorrow.
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06/25/2012, Encott Cove, BC
After a short run from Bella Coola early this morning, we anchored in a beautiful cove. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks, it looks like a mountain lake with several streams flowing into it. The big meadow and silt filling the lake make it pretty tricky for deep draft boats such as ours to get in here and not go aground (we did). Even has its own hotspring complete with cemented walls and a ladder to help you get in. Had the whole place to ourselves until about 4:00 this afternoon. At 5:00 we picked up our crab ring filled with 13 Dungeness crabbies!!!! We kept 5 legal-sized males (2 were huge) and fed their innerds to the females we let go. Melt-in-your-mouth fresh cracked crab for dinner at last. Yummmmmyyyy! :)
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06/23/2012, Bella Coola, BC
It was raining when we walked the mile into town from the Marina. The Bella Coola River dominates the valley; with the tide out, there were full size trees on the mud flats waiting for a trip out on the next high tide. We had coffee in town, sitting outside under an awning. As we drank and talked, the local citizenry came by for morning breakfast at the restaurant. Many spoke to us, and we could feel the town's friendliness. The disappointment was that the Bella Coola Museum had changed their hours, and would not be open on Saturday. So we jumped on the local bus, went ten miles up the valley to a local grocery store, saw as much scenery as you can when the clouds are hung low in the valley. We returned to the Marina, and settled down to listening to Sirius Radio, especially an interview with David Garrett, violinist, along with Itzhak Pearlman. Great stuff! Tonight Sue is preparing Swiss Steak with tomato sauce and mash potatoes. Yum!
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06/23/2012, Bella Coola, BC
Motoring along yesterday morning, the wind barely breathed a whisper as we went through "Gunboat Passage". In the narrows (at low tide) we saw several flocks of Harlequin Ducks, mostly males at first, but then the females further along, and some juveniles. They are such a pretty bird with their bold white stripes and red-orange sides. They were not so shy as the ones we saw in the Queen Charlotte Islands so we got a good look at them through our binoculars. We also saw several large flocks of Surf Scoters, a black diving duck with a heavy beak and bright orange on their face. Both these species flock closely together among their own, the Scoters spacing themselves evenly along the water in a perfect line or in flight inches above the surface.
Then, as we started out on our walk towards the thriving metropolis of Ocean Falls, population 30, we heard a bird peeping under the dock as we walked along. Guessing that this was surely a baby bird wondering where its mother was, our suspicions were exonerated as a mother Common Merganzer jumped out from another section of the dock along with 5 babies, no there were 8, no there were 10, no there were 12! and then 2 more came out!!!! All exactly the same age, about a week old with distinct grey backs and red heads, head feathers just long enough to cover their heads while Mom looked quickly around from left to right, her hackles up, her head feathers distinctly brushed back as she made the best effort possible to see if they were all there. One jumped onto her back as they swam all very close together this way and that away from the dock. We can't imagine very many will survive with the Bald Eagles watching every move. But with that many hatchlings, the species will survive.
Today we motored for 6 hours further up Dean Channel, then stayed right around King Island towards Bella Coola since the weather was still nice and the wind not too strong. Or so we thought. As we worked our way up towards Bella Coola the wind picked up and we sailed in gusty 15-31 knot winds behind us for about 1.5 hours, going over 7 knots in the choppy channel, light green from glacial silt and spring runoff. The last 2 miles were strewn with big trees, sticks and logs lifted up with the high tide. The winds came and went depending on the lay of the gigantic fjords all around us, snow-capped mountains 4000'-11,000', the lush forests gleaming gorgeous green in the sunlight. But there were clouds up the inlet. We had a few sprinkles before tying up at the dock and it POURED as we prepared dinner accompanied by thunder. The barometer has been slowly falling for the past 3 days, so here is the rain once again.
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06/22/2012, Ocean Falls, BC
The Inland Passage islands have so much rain, but no potable water. With high tannic acid (tea color) content, the water needs to be boiled. So the stage is set for Ocean Falls. They have a river coming down from the snow-capped mountains, supplying a lake behind a dam, and their water is VERY potable, rivaling the best drinking water. It is a key stop between Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert. Even the moorage rates are attractively low. It's hard to beat stopping at Ocean Falls.
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06/21/2012, Shearwater Marina, BC
So we stayed in Shearwater Marina today doing the normal laundry, refueling, provisioning and odd jobs. Although it's a busy time, it can be relaxing in knowing that preparations for the next couple weeks are being set in motion. Of course, we took advantage of a dinner out at the local restaurant, and saw two DVD's since we were plugged into AC. It's now midnight, and raining, and a good time for bed.
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