07/17/2012, Gulf Islands
Currents kept us from actually going through any of the passes today, so we found a cove just off Georgia Straits on the Gulf Islands Side, south of Active Pass: Campbell Bay on Mayne Island. Lots of Canadians have summer homes along the shores here, although they had all gone back to work today since it's Monday. One other sailboat raced in just ahead of us and then anchored right beside us. Summer weather continued today and we enjoyed hearing all the young people swimming and playing on the sandy beach at the end of the bay. Sue kayaked around and found lots of eel grass, so we put down the crab pot with some spoiled chicken bones saved for this purpose.
Both of us are ready to come home, so we decided to head for Friday Harbor tomorrow. Strong currents will carry us along the north shore of Orcas Island from Sucia (not far south of us) if we leave early tomorrow morning. We're looking forward to preparing for Jenna and the girls' arrival next week. If the weather holds we will spend a few days on Julia Max together.
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07/15/2012, Vancouver, BC
Vancouver, BC in 85 degree summer weather couldn't have been more delightful yesterday. We arrived here around 2:00 in the afternoon and tied up at the Vancouver Rowing Club where Portland Yacht Club members have reciprocal privileges. Right next to Stanley Park, we rented bicycles for 2 hours of fun off the boat. Hundreds of young people gathered on the beaches to sun themselves or swim in the ocean. Others swam in a huge fresh-water swimming pool, and everyone else either skated, biked, ran, or walked the paved path around the park. We watched a Cricket game for a while and spent time studying the 1st Nation art at Totem Park. It was simply glorious.
Today we took the bus to the Museum of Anthropology at the University of BC. There we enjoyed viewing works of Bill Reid (Haida) and Doug Cranmer (Kwakwaka'wakw). Bill Reid's huge sculpture of Raven and the First Humans formed the centerpiece of one gallery. A docent took us outside to see the Big House and other totems designed as a miniature replica of S'Gang Gwaii, the last village we visited in Gwaii Hanas (Queen Charlotte Islands). Fascinating museum displaying art from all the nations of the NW region.
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07/14/2012, Pender Harbor, BC
Pender Harbor is a boater's haven. Boats of all descriptions are coming and going. Supplies are available: propane was at the top of the list this time. Plus a credit union ATM that recognized our bank debit card for more cash. Canada's bank cards have a microchip instead of a magnetic strip. Much more secure. Many of their ATM's will only service the microchip system. Madrone trees grace the coast line. Attractive summer homes are also there. The first time we anchored here, we took in the Annual Jazz Festival.
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07/13/2012, Princess Louisa Inlet
This morning George and I took off on an adventure, hiking up to the the Miner's cabin, probably Jeffrey McDonald. The trail is well marked with surveyor's tape, and cleared of recent windfall trees. But the trail goes mostly straight up the steep slope, meandering around trees, over boulders, and generally what we call a 4th class climb/hike (use of hands required here and there). Thank heaven there were lots of sturdy roots to hang onto and even a rope where we needed to climb up a rock slab where a tree had lost its hold, leaving the bare rock behind. We climbed up 1200' in an hour and 20 minutes. A huge waterfall rumbles down the cliff right next to the abandoned and ruined cabin. The mosquitoes were so bad we couldn't stop and enjoy a snack before heading back down. We had to be careful with each step on the way back, so it took us a little longer. The lush undergrowth and tall trees were such a delight, a cool forest on a hot day. The birds sang to us along with the sound of Chatterbox Falls roaring below and other streams rushing down one gorge or another as we made our way along.
After lunch back at Julia Max we rode around in the inflatable, discovering the nests of the gulls in one rock cliff overhanging the water and trying to figure out where the cabin was on the steep hillside above the dock. We talked to one of the counselors from the Malibu Camp and found out that they take groups of high school students backpacking up these hills, all the way to the top of the snow-covered mountains. They spend about 5 days out in the wilderness where there are no trails. Amazing!
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07/12/2012, Princess Louisa Inlet
Although we didn't have enough wind to sail more than a few minutes here and there as the wind funneled down one draw or another, motoring up these fabulous fjords on a summer day can't be compared. George weighed anchor at 6:15 a.m. to get us through Sechelt Rapids at slack (still a ride through current swirling with us first, then against us). By 2:15 we had arrived at Malibu Rapids, the entrance to the lovely Princess Louisa Inlet, one of our favorite spots on earth. Today the sun shone, the waterfalls rushed, the snow sparkled on the mountain tops, and the trees glowed their lovely shades of green. Chatterbox Falls always looks fuller, sounds louder, and sprays up more mist than we remember, and this is the 5th time we have been here (3rd time for Julia Max). Lots of people from the Malibu Camp visited for the day. We joined 2 other boats at the base of the falls so the cool air rushes over us non-stop. I wish I could describe the unstoppable beauty here with the steep granite walls, waterfalls streaming down on every side. A mother Common Merganzer with her 5 babies swam nearby at the mouth of a stream, unbothered by all the boats. Fishing must have been good as they each came up with little fish to eat with each dive. A Great Blue Heron has also taken up residency here, reminding us of the pet heron years ago who lived on the dock with the land owner. That heron waited patiently for the man to give him fish throughout the day. When the man passed away, he gave the land to the public so it is now a Provincial Marine Park.
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07/11/2012, Sechelt Inlet, BC
When we weighed anchor this morning, it was into a pleasant wind from behind. We sailed for a few hours down the Sechelt Inlet and up a side inlet named Salmon Inlet. We pulled into a totally calm anchorage called Misery Cove. Launching the dinghy we explored the area, stopping at an old dock that allowed us to walk ashore. The day's bird watch included: a mother Merganzer with five aging chicks, several Common Loons, an Osprey (the first in a long time), a couple Bald Eagles, a Turkey Vulture, two Pileated Woodpeckers, two Spotted Sandpipers, a few White-Crowned Sparrows, a Rufous Hummingbird, some Cliff Swallows, and bird calls of a Swainson's Thrush and a Robin. Down at the end of the Inlet there is a hydro-power plant making electricity and sending it over heavy transmission wires to users in the region. They were good at using a portion of the rushing waterfalls, and leaving enough for the fish to naturally return up river requiring some gymnastic feats on their parts. Another blue sky day was easy to enjoy! There had to be a dozen harbor seals in the anchorage; it was obvious to us that they were used to getting handouts from the commercial fishing boats in the area. Tomorrow we head to Princess Louisa Inlet.
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