(13th to 26th March 2015)

Having spent the previous few days in Yamba we decided to head across the river to visit Iluka and anchored within the protection of the harbour walls in Iluka Bay. Where we found Yamba to be very touristy (not that there is anything wrong with that) we found Iluka to be very laid back and casual. It's exactly what you'd imagine a quiet fishing village to be like.

Iluka Trawler Fleet
We ventured ashore and slowly walked around 8km just exploring the town. The great news was we'd tied up the kayak right in front of the pub so our walk just so happened to finish there, and be assured the beers went down very well. We also discovered fish & chips for $5.50 at the fish co-op. I tell you I was in paradise, Saturday afternoon, cold beer and $5 fish & chips. Does it get any better than this?

Karen felt we needed to walk off my excess of the previous day so we walked along the Iluka Beach to Iluka Bluff (great surf - in fact so great even Karen was a little bit nervous about going in to deep as the beach is unpatrolled). There was a protected beach at Iluka Bluff so Karen was in her element being able to go for a swim. I of course remained on shore just taking in the ambiance and serenity. We walked back via the Iluka Nature Reserve, where we saw lots of blue tongue lizards, stag horns, strangler vines and a goanna. Once again another 8km walk, so the beer that evening was well deserved. We caught the edge of a storm that gave us a great lightening show. Of course Karen was very excited about this, and some how managed to abstain from having a little nip of Conitreau.

Iluka Beach

Strangler Fig

Blue Tongue Lizard
To allow us to venture further afield we broke out the pushbikes and cycled north to Woody Head and explored Shark Bay, the rock pools at Woody Head, and Frazer Reef. The beaches in this area are stunning, and we had them to ourselves most of the time. We think this is because most people keep to the Yamba side rather than venture to Iluka. We spoke briefly with a Parks Ranger to see what places of interest he would recommend. Turned out he is also originally from Central Queensland - small world. Having cycled and walked around 35km we treated ourselves to coffee & cake - as you do.

Frazer Reef Waves
We're very impressed with the cycle ways they have in NSW. They put a two-way cycleway on just one side of the road. There is ample room for bikes to pass each other, and I suspect this style dramatically reduces the construction cost of the cycleway.

Whilst anchored in Iluka Bay we met a very friendly couple on a 450 Lagoon (Catamaran). Paul & Kathy ('Moor R&R') originally from Adelaide but now based out of Brisbane, and have spent the last six months cruising the NSW coast and are currently heading home and then further north along the Queensland coast. Over a beer aboard 'Moor R&R' they shared with us lots of good advice and tips on where to explore and anchor as we travel further south.

OK time to head up the Clarence River. The Clarence is around 400km long (from source to sea) of which we're able to navigate 50km upstream to Grafton. There are several small communities along the river banks where you're able either anchor in the river or berth alongside on a public pontoon.

Wouldn't you know it, the day we decided to get going it rained, well drizzled really. The temperature also dropped causing us to both break out the winter woollies and slippers, or as I refer to our slippers "our sailing shoes".

To go up river you have to go under the Pacific Highway at Hardwood. To facilitate this the highway is closed to traffic and the middle span of the bridge is raised. This was a first for us, and quite exciting. There is talk that the bridge is going to be duplicated. The locals don't know whether the duplication will incorporate an opening span.

Harwood Bridge Openning
We travelled up river to Maclean and tied up to the public pontoon. Maclean is known as the 'Scottish Town in Australia". We were approached by a member of the local sailing club and given a number of publications on the Clarence River. Whilst here we walked around town, had a coffee, walked up to 'The Pinnacle', a look out overlooking the Clarence River down to Yamba/Iluka, and treated ourselves to a very yummy breakfast ashore.

Prawn Trawlers of the Clarence
Our next port of call up-river was Brushgrove, which is a very small country village with a pub, church and a few houses. Every house fronting the river appears to have a jetty and fishing deck. Whilst there is a public pontoon, we anchored out in the river and explored the river by kayak. As you would expect we had a cool refreshing beer at the pub.

Typical Fishing Jetty ay Brushgrove
After waiting for the fog to lift we headed up river to Grafton. Well we didn't quite get to Grafton due to power lines across the river. Whilst all the charts show the minimum height of the power lines to be 19m there are signs on the riverbank indicating that they are in fact only 17m. Given our mast height is 18m we opted to be better safe rather than sorry and anchored downstream of the power lines. While in Grafton we caught up with Karen's brother's (Stewart) in-law's Harry & Glenice.

Waiting for the fog to clear
We headed back down river to Ulmarra and eventually tied up to the public pontoon. I say eventually as when we arrived there were two boats already berthed at the pontoon/jetty with a 12m gap between them. Isis is 12m long so there was no way I felt we could squeeze in between the stern of one boat and the bowsprit of another boat. We were a little disappointed we weren't able to berth but told those on the pontoon we'd anchor in the river. Let me explain further. There was a motor boat tied to a pile jetty with their stern just reaching the pontoon. The pontoon is around 30m long and very capable of catering for two 12m vessels. However because of the way the other boat had tied up to the pontoon there simply wasn't enough room for us. Fortunately for us a local was on hand and he suggested that the other boat merely move to either end of the pontoon (rather than one third of the way along prohibiting anyone else from using it) which then allowed us to come on. Clearly people simply don't understand berthing etiquette.

We had a slow walk around town looking at the old buildings and reading about the history of the town. You wouldn't believe it, but the pontoon just so happens to be right in front of the local pub, so upon completion of our slow walk we stopped by for a nice cool ale.....

Having an Ale
Sunday (22nd March) saw us once again breaking out the pushbikes for a ride into Grafton. We crossed the river via the vehicle ferry (which is free) and had a gentle 20km flat ride into Grafton. We found the Walker Hotel on the bank of the Clarence River. An aunt of Karen's once owned the pub. Unfortunately the pub doesn't have any photos, and the guy behind the bar didn't know the pubs history. We did a bit of shopping at ALDI, and discovered that they sell alcohol - of course we're in NSW where the supermarkets sell grog!!! We had to cycle the 20km back home in the rain. It wasn't cold, and we both agreed it was probably better to be cycling in the rain rather than blazing hot sunshine.

Catching the Ferry

Cycling to Grafton - Rural Setting

Walker Hotel - Grafton
Karen had some work in Brisbane, so we moved further downstream to Maclean and anchored in the river for a few days. Karen caught the bus to Brisbane, and Hamish had a great time just holidaying in the river, reading, watching 'shoot me up' style movies, going for the occasional walk, having a $5.50 counter meal, and doing the occasional odd job around 'Isis'.

Dawn on the Clarence - Maclean
We're certainly enjoying the Clarence River. Well why wouldn't you when you have Supermarkets that sell grog, pubs on the banks of the river where you tie up, $5.50 fish & chips and $5.50 counter lunches....

Because we've been tying up to the pontoon's we've spoken to a number of locals, and people simply interested in boats or buying a boat. It's been a great way of meeting people.