s/v Karma

Karma in Motion

Who: Clint, Reina & Duke
Port: West Palm Beach, FL

Where are we?

Your destiny, is a result of your actions. Live by a code of conduct that will secure supreme hapiness and worldy joys; which are usually the little things.
13 June 2016 | Puerto Natlaes
12 November 2015 | Southern Patagonia, Chile 50 39.60S:74 33.12W
02 November 2015 | Golfo de Penas, Patagonia, Chile
17 October 2015 | Laguna San Rafael, Patagonia, Chile
13 October 2015 | Laguna San Rafael, Patagonia, Chile
01 October 2015 | Caleta Poza de Oro, Patagonia, Chile
20 September 2015 | Los Altos, Paraguay
06 September 2015 | Chiloe
04 September 2015 | Puerto Montt, Chile
05 January 2015 | Isla Isabela
01 December 2014 | La Libertad, Ecuador
01 August 2014 | US Trip

Patagonia Adventures - 10/17/16 - 11/01/16 The Beagle Channel

01 August 2017
Reina
Getting to the bottom of it all.....

No better way to start than with a witty pun. This is always the hardest part for me when writing the blog, and I don't make it any easier when I am always trying to catch up. This time nine months has past and I am trying to recapture it all from a world away. I am not sure why it is so difficult for me to stay on top of the blog; it just is. Thankfully we are not looking to generate income from it but rather only using it as a means to keep family and friends up to date (in a not so timely manner) and mostly as a journal for us to look back on and remember all of our adventures.

We have had lots of tiny mishaps and interesting encounters that could keep me busy with daily blog entries but honestly the true story of Chile is its indescribable beauty. The indescribable part being my big road block.

in · de · scrib · a · ble
indəˈskrībəb(ə)l/

adjective

adjective: indescribable
1. too unusual, extreme, or indefinite to be adequately described.
synonyms: inexpressible, indefinable, beyond words/description, ineffable, incommunicable; unutterable, unspeakable.

Okay enough excuses time to get down to it.

My last blog entry left off at our arrival at the Beagle Channel, the pinnacle of this whole crazy adventure that first started taking shape back in Grenada three years prior. Sailing to Puerto Montt, Chile from Ecuador was our objective. Transiting the Patagonian fjords in Karma all the way down to THE BEAGLE was the dream, the part of the goal that we didn't really share in case we didn't make it. Why might we not make it you ask? After my breakdown in The Galapagos and us almost scrapping the whole plan we decided "if" we did make it to Puerto Montt we would just "take the rest from there". Basically pretend it wasn't happening while it was; denial. Clint realized it was just better to put it in motion but not dwell on the end results. I must say the tactic worked well and I am super proud of myself for making it. I am a big ass chicken that can now sail anywhere!

The Beagle Channel is about 150 mi long and 3 mi wide at its narrowest point. It connects the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west. Approximately 30 mi from its western end Isla Gordon (Gordon Island) divides it into two branches, Brazo Noroeste (Northwest Arm) and Brazo Suroeste (Southwest Arm).



Unfortunately, I do not have with me the computer that allowed me to label jpegs like the maps from my previous posts. I got this image off the internet. If you are able to zoom in on it you can get somewhat of an idea of The Beagle. The red dots and writing "Romanche, Alamania, Francia, Italia" are indicating the four glaciers on the eastern end of the Northwest Arm of the Beagle; Rome, Germany, France, and Italy. It is in this area that the two arms unite to form The Beagle proper. Puerto Williams, our destination, is indicated with a black dot and labeled; just below the eastern blue box that says Canal de Beagle.


Brazo Noroeste de Canal Beagle

On October 16, 2016, we finally arrived at The Beagle. Since we were travelling south from Puerto Natales our approach was from the west leaving us with the choice of which branch we wanted to first explore. Knowing we would be in the area for a while we chose to start with the Brazo Noroeste and save the Brazo Suroeste to explore when the kids visited us for Christmas; that way there would be something new for all of us.

The weather since departing Puerto Natales had been spectacular, very stable (not a lot of crazy wind) with lots of sun and clear skies. It was still early in the season so there was also a lot of ice. It is very important to pick your anchorages well in this area. High peaks and numerous glaciers accelerate already gale force winds and the multi-directional fjord walls have the wind bouncing from all directions. In other words, if strong weather is coming you better get someplace safe and secure and there are only a few spots on the Beagle that fit that bill. Fortunately for us we had fairly benign conditions and were able to explore most of the caletas (anchorages).

Our first stop, Seno Girabaldi. Our trusty Italian Guide, aka The Bible, describes two possible fair-weather anchorages in Seno Girabaldi neither of which are particularly great. We knew that ice was also going to be a new factor to consider, so we set out early in the day with plenty of time to find a backup anchorage if necessary.

We spent four hours picking our way slowly through the flow ice in Seno Girabaldi. We checked out both of the suggested anchorages and we were not happy with either of them. Our concern was not with strong wind but getting packed in by the ice.

So we came up with Plan B, Caleta Cinco Estrellas.



Cinco Estrellas is one of our favorite spots. It is extremely well protected and has a lot of great hiking and kayaking opportunities. We spent a week there enjoying the security of the spot. For the first couple of days we had some amazing weather to get out and explore in.

With very little wind the first day we were able to comfortably travel far from Karma on the dinghy out to the entrance of The Beagle. We were able to hike up to an overlook for some amazing views of the channel and its numerous glaciers.

Brazo Noroeste de Canal Beagle looking east:







After a week and with more stable weather in the forecast we headed across the Channel to Seno Pia. Seno Pia branches into two arms, east and west. There are several anchorages, all with their pluses and minuses. Caleta Beaulieu in the eastern arm is by far the most spectacular.



This is not the anchorage location described in the Italian Guide; however, when we arrived at their anchorage it was completely blocked with ice. Not willing to be deterred from this spectacular spot we decided to come up with an alternative. We were not super excited with the spot but we were confident that we would have very calm conditions for at least a couple of days.

There is some great hiking and we were able to hike up to a high clearing and get some great views of the glacier.



Do you see Karma tucked in 1/3rd of the way up the peninsula on the right side?

When there is not ice flow blocking the way it is possible to dinghy all the way up to the face of the glacier. At low tide large bits get left high and dry providing a great opportunity for a Duke photo shoot.



With a change in the weather coming we decided to check out a more protected anchorage in the western arm of Seno Pia. Even though we refer to our Italian Guide as "The Bible" we have learned to take their suggestions with a grain of salt. The book describes a spot where you can do a 2-point tie off, stern to shore and the bow to a small islet. There was in fact a small islet; however, there was not a single thing to tie to, not even a rock to wrap a line around. Always having a Plan B, we opted for Caleta Sur but with a different tie off then suggested in the book.

Although the anchorage was not one of our favorites it was secure and was close enough to the glacier at the end of the western arm of Seno Pia that we could dinghy up to check it out



The walls along the western arm were spectacular with a combination of various ores melded together over thousands of years. They were like pieces of art.



While anchored in Caleta Sur, we had a dolphin encounter like no others. When Clint started the outboard of the dinghy two dolphins came zooming over to us out of nowhere. They clearly had not seen people in a while and wanted to play. We zipped all over the place with them chasing us and swimming under the dinghy. We would slow down and they would swim under the dinghy and pop up out of the water just in front of the bow. We played with them for at least twenty minutes. They never tired. Wanting to explore the glacier we left them to entertain themselves. After several hours of exploring in the dinghy we returned to our anchorage. We had forgotten about the dolphins. As we were zipping into the Caleta we felt a bump that scared the crap out of us, we thought we had hit a rock. It was not a rock it was one of the dolphins giving us a friendly tap. They were back to play. It was seriously one of the coolest experiences.

After five days in Seno Pia, we decided it was time to move on. Caleta Olla was our next stop, located at the eastern end of the Northwest Arm of the Beagle Channel where the two arms meet to form The Beagle Channel. Caleta Olla is one of those anchorages that we had heard many cruisers talk about and we were excited to finally see it for ourselves.



The picture above is looking west up the Northwest Arm of the Beagle Channel. If you look closely you can see Karma tied off to the shore in the foreground of the picture. We found this anchorage to be very well protected. The wind comes screaming down the Northwest Arm right over the top of the mast. The trees on shore provide a strong tying point and great protection from the wind. In really strong conditions the boat is sitting in water that looks like glass but just past the bow foam is being blown of the top of the water. Very cool. There are great hiking opportunities at this anchorage. We were able to hike up to an area that overlooks a lake and large beautiful glacier. The lake has a stream that dumps into the anchorage.

It was still crab season and Caleta Olla is a popular spot for the fishing boats. For a trade of some powdered milk, two chicken breasts, and some eggs we received a 40 lb bag of fresh (still alive) King crab. The fishermen were extremely grateful for the trade. It was close to the end off season and they had been eating crab for a very long time. The chicken and eggs were a much appreciated change in their diet.



After our last crab exchange I was not overly excited about spending an entire day in the galley cooking and cleaning crab. This time we chose to just cook the legs and forgo the body. I felt bad about the waste but honestly there is not much meat in the body and without having to cook it I had a lot more room for the legs. I also froze some legs for when the kids would be visiting.

With the kids' visit quickly approaching, we decided it was time to stop playing and get somewhere with internet so we could talk with our families and start ordering all the stuff the kids would be mule-ing down for us.


Can you tell I had been slaying over a steaming pot of crab, for hours!

After three days of exploring and eating crab we left Caleta Olla and headed for Puerto Williams, our final destination. It was on the final stretch that it really hit home for us that we had achieved what we set out to do. As always it was nothing we expected. We were particularly surprised by the calm conditions. We were in The Beagle motoring with the wind on our nose out of the east, an unusual direction. The wind was not helping our progress and we did not want to arrive at Puerto Williams late so we decided to lay up in an anchorage 15 miles short of Puerto Williams.

On November 1, 2017 we arrived Puerto Williams and the infamous Club de Yates Micalvi.



The Southernmost yacht club in the world in the southernmost town in the world!

Patagonia Adventures - 09/12 - 10/16/2016 Puerto Natales to the Beagle Channel

26 March 2017
Reina
Our route from Puerto Natales to Puerto Williams:



A closer look at some of our stops.





The numbered flags on the charts correspond to the numbers in parentheses.

With some excitement and trepidation (on my part) we left Puerto Natales (1) to continue our journey south. It was high time we finished what we started.

The season for centolla (king crab) is June through November. We had not tried any yet and what we had caught could hardly be considered "king" crab so when we pulled into our second anchorage (2) and saw that we would be sharing it with some fisherman we were very excited.

#2

For the cost of a couple of beers we had a wonderful crab dinner aboard Karma. We would later learn that it was not exactly a fair trade but we were happy to finally have some crab.



In Canal Smyth lies the hulking remains of the ship Santa Leonore (3) who ran hard aground on Paso Shoal.

#3

She definitely serves as a good marker for the shallow area.

#3

At its southern end Canal Smyth meets the Strait of Magellan. This part (6) of the Strait of Magellan is open to the wind and swell of the South Pacific Ocean. This is not a place you want to be with strong weather. In addition to accelerated winds and large seas you have the effect of the current of the two channels meeting. Fortunately not too far from the entrance to the Strait of Magellan is a beautiful and very well protected anchorage, Caleta Teokita (4).

#4

From the anchorage you can hike up to the top of the island and look out to Islotes Fairway (5) and the Faro Fairway (Fairway Lighthouse). The rainbow has got to be a good sign, right?

#5

#5

We were tied off in Caleta Teokita (4) for eight days waiting for "suitable" (Reina-type) weather to enter the Strait to start heading east. Finally, just when Clint was ready to snap we had an opportunity to continue on "comfortably".

We had a beautiful day and a wonderful sail with 15-20kts of wind. When we first set out the seas were a little uncomfortable with a 6-7 foot close swell on our beam, but once we turned east the seas were behind us and we had a wonderful downwind run. We even had some company.



The eight days we spent in Caleta Teokita (4) were not all idle. We passed our time hiking, kayaking, working on boat projects, and most importantly making a sign with our name on it for Bahía Borja (7). Árbol con tableros or trees bearing boards with ship names is an old tradition in Patagonia. Joshua Slocum even refers to them in his book Spray.

There are other anchorages with an árbol con tableros but this is the first one we had stopped at. It was very cool to see all the other boats that had been there some over forty years ago and some that we even had heard of or know.

#7



We were very excited to put our sign just below that of our good friends Giamba and Vale from Angelique II.



Where the Strait of Magellan turns north to Punta Arenas and then eventually leads to the Atlantic Ocean it meets up with Canal Magdalena (8) which heads south to Canal Cockburn. There are two other canals that lead south from the Strait of Magellan which are actually short cuts. We chose Canal Magdalena because we were not in a hurry and we had heard how beautiful it is. We were not disappointed. About midway down the canal, where it turns west to meet with Canal Cockburn, stands Monte Sarmiento (9). At 7,887 feet it is one of the highest points in Tierra del Fuego.

#9

#9

We were strongly encouraged by a friend to spend a couple of nights in Bahía Angelito (10) in Seno Agostine. If you look closely you will see Karma safely anchored in Bahía Angelito. The picture below does not even capture the scale, it is an incredibly dramatic spot that is hard to capture in words let alone a camera. It is a very special place.

#10

We even had the added bonus of fishermen. More crab for us!

#10

#10

#10

We hiked up behind the boat and had spectacular views of Seno Agostini which runs north parallel to the Northwest Arm of the Beagle Canal with the Darwin Range as its border. These glaciers are part of the same icefield that we will see when we get to the northwest arm of Beagle Canal.







Canal Magdalena runs in a southerly direction from the Strait of Magellan for about 20nm where it then turns northwest and becomes Canal Cockburn.



At the eastern extremity of Canal Cockburn is Seno Chico (11), a very narrow 6 mile long fjord that ends with several glaciers. Unfortunately there was too much ice to go all the way to the glaciers but halfway down we tucked into Caleta Lago.



You can see the flow ice just outside the little indent we were tucked into. This was by far the most dramatic anchorages on our run south.

Canal Cockburn is approximately 40nm long. It runs northwest before heading due west and then cuts southwest to the Pacific. It can be a real challenge and we spent several nights in a couple different anchorages waiting out weather looking for a good window to enter the exposed area that would lead us to the infamous Canal Brecknock and its highly anticipated anchorage called Caleta Brecknock (12).

In all of our conversations with fellow cruisers that have travelled these waters it seemed to us that everyone mentioned "Brecknock". The area is notorious for its very strong winds and rapidly changing weather. All of the area is known for extreme conditions and Brecknock is the pinnacle. Fortunately there is a very safe anchorage to wait out the harshest of the conditions.

#12

In addition to being very safe (do you see our 8-point tie off) it has the added bonus of being spectacularly beautiful with lots of great hikes.

Across from the boat and behind the smooth granite wall lies a hidden lake. The smooth rock made for an easy climb.

#12

The granite hills seem to go on forever. Clint was able to climb up above me, the chicken. Do you see me in the bottom right corner of the picture below?

#12

After almost a month of travelling the channels we finally had the company of another sailboat that joined us in Caleta Brecknock (12).

#12

We spent a couple days hanging out with the crew of the French flaged sailboat Basic Instinct; Sauréa, Vaso, Lucy, Christina, and Captain Laurent.



We both left Caleta Brecknock the same day. The plan was not to end up, again, in the same anchorage. We were not happy with the first anchorage we picked so we wound up tied off to Basic Instinct in a much better spot, Caleta Atracadero (13).

#13

#13

The Captain of Basic Instinct, Laurent, and his new best friend Duke.



While in Caleta Atracadero we had a beach B-B-Q; at least we tried to, the wood was a little wet.





This was another spot where we needed to wait for good conditions to cross our last open area of water before Puerto Williams. After four days we got a wonderful window to make our way to the beginning of the entrance of The Beagle (14).






Patagonia Adventures - 04/02/16 to 04/23/16 PP and TT Come to Chilly Chile (& Llarry the Llama Too)

11 September 2016 | Puerto Natlaes
Reina Reina
Have you ever heard the expression, "When life gives you lemons you make lemonade"? Well when your boat gets de-masted you go to Patagonia according to Petr Petr and Tracy Trace, aka PP and TT.



Petr and Tracy live aboard their catamaran, "Genesis", in Grenada (lots about them in our 2013 Grenada posts). They both work extremely hard running a very successful charter business. Never in a million years did we ever think they would have the time to come visit us but then misfortune struck, they lost their mast. They had to cancel all of their charters and park the boat while they waited for a new one to arrive from France. So, why not come visit us? At first we thought they were joking but before we knew it the tickets were purchased, they were coming for three whole weeks!

The image below is a digital copy of the Chilean paper chart of the area we explored on Karma. I numbered each of our stops.



Number 1, Puerto Consuelo

We started our adventure in Puerto Consuelo where we were anchored off Estancia Eberhardt.





To say Petr and Tracy are beer "drinkers" is putting it lightly. We were a little worried about where we were going to put it all. Fortunately down here we can stow it on the deck and it stays nice and cold.



We spent their first day exploring the estancia and playing with the horses.



Tracy the Horse Whisperer, who knew?



The next day we were up early and underway up Estéro Última Esperanza.





Number 2, Puerto Bellavista





We did some trailblazing...













Petr and Tracy had us foraging for mushrooms everywhere we went.



some kayaking...





My merken;)



and a little fishing.





We were not having any luck at catching fish so Clint decided to do a GoPro video of Tracy bringing in the big one, "Duke". Would have been a great video except the captain forgot to turn on the camera. Duke did not think it was that funny.

After a couple of days we were ready to move. We woke early to a beautiful sunrise.



When Clint went to lift the anchor the windlass was not operating. Normally at this point there would be widespread panic but not this time, we had are very own technician aboard.



I would rather not post this rather "flamboyant" picture of Clint but it is a tribute to Kurt and the US Navy. Petr donned Kurt's jumpsuit and went to work on the windlass. Of course Petr had us up and running in no time and we were back in business.



Number 3, Puerto Toro

This was a new spot for us. Puerto Toro is a very short and easy dinghy ride to Bernardo O'Higgins Park and Glacier Serrano which we could see from the boat.







An up close look at the glacier,



and of course some ice for our scotch.



We towed the kayaks up the Río Serrano looking for a nice spot for a picnic and some kayaking. The river goes all the way into Torres del Paine Park which we could see in the distance.









The current in the river was too strong for us to get very far but we enjoyed our picnic and the stunning view.

Another beautiful sunrise and another day on the move.



We headed out of Estéro Última Esperanza towards Puerto Natales. It was a beautiful day and we even got to pull out the sails.



Some dolphins getting in on the action.



Number 4, Puerto Natales





We stopped just off of Puerto Natales for the night. We needed to stock up on some more beer, can you believe it? We also got some fresh salmon, mussels, and clams at the local fish market.





Less than $1 for 1 kg (2.2 lbs) of mussels!

After our night on the town we headed west towards Estéro de las Montañas.



Tracy got some smoked mussels in town, Petr was not a fan.



Number 5, Caleta Desaparecidos aka Sealville



This spot is one of our all-time favorites. It is just teaming with wildlife, especially seals and sea lions.

One of the funniest moments on our trip was when Petr kayaked to shore to tie off our bow. Clint, Tracy, and I were watching from the bow and spotted a HUGE South American Sea Lion exactly where Petr was headed. The expression on Petr's face when he finally saw it was priceless.









I think this was one of Petr and Tracy's favorite spots too. They had a great time kayaking with the seals while Clint and I watched from the deck.



As always, when Tracy is around good food is sure to follow. She is an amazing chef and likes to experiment with new things. When we stopped in Puerto Natales we loaded up on some more steak for our red meat deprived friends (they can not buy steak in Grenada). While at the butcher shop Tracy spotted these and just had to have them.







Have you ever heard of Rocky Mountain Oysters? These are Patagonian Cajones. Like everything Tracy makes they were yummy!

Back on the move all the way to the top of Estéro de las Montañas.



Number 6, Caleta Pelagic



This was another new spot for us. We had some strong weather coming and wanted a good secure spot to hang out in until it passed.



We did manage to get some exploring in before the snow and sleet started.





We celebrated a very special day in this spot, MY birthday, and we did not let the wet and cold keep us from observing it properly with a cookout.











My super bitchin biker look, thanks TT and PP (notice the crown on the table?).



Every night we tried desperately to catch crabs in our handy dandy homemade crab pot but to no avail. We did however catch a bunch of these guys.



What are they you ask...squat lobsters. We did not know that at the time, my very smart friend went home and googled it. We thought they were a type of crawfish and we did eat them, what little of them there was.

We let this guy go.



With the weather cleared we decided it was time to move on.

Number 7, Caleta Mist

From Caleta Mist we kayaked up the small fjord to the glacier.













Petr and Tracy made a friend.





We also did some extreme hiking at the blue lagoon.



Not too far into the hike up and over the very slippery rocks the girls bailed and the boys continued on.







They even got a little artsy.

After a couple of days exploring from Caleta Mist we decided to start our return to Puerto Consuelo.



We went back to Sealville (#5) so Petr and Tracy could get in a little more play time with the seals.



From Sealville we had a beautiful run back to Puerto Consuelo.



Tracy soaking it all in.





Petr and his "little buddy".



Number 1, Puerto Consuelo



After almost three weeks on Karma we were all looking forward to a little road trip. We loaded into Putty, boys in the front girls in the back (with the Bloody Mary's), and headed to Torres del Paine National Park to hike around Lago Grey to view Glacier Grey.



















Petr and Tracy's last two days were spectacular. The sun was out in full force and the visibility was remarkable. We spent those last two days exploring the area at the head of Estéro Eberhardt, Villa Luisa.







The fall colors were in full force.

















Right before Petr and Tracy arrived the flamingos started to arrive in Estéro Eberhardt. Tons of them. I mentioned to Tracy to keep an eye out for them on her bus ride from Punta Arenas. She thought I was pulling her leg. Flamingos in Patagonia??? Apparently flamingos aren't just in the tropics.









It is not every day that you get the cows to pose in your boat picture.



The visibility was so clear that Petr was able to snap this incredible shot of the moon on their last night with us.



So here's to 23 days, 2987 pictures, and endless memories. Cheers!



Oh in case you were wondering who Llarry the Llama is...



Yes we realize he is a lamb but we like the way Llarry the Llama rolls of the tongue.

Oh and by the way sometimes a "cigar is just a cigar".

P.S. Petr shot some unbelievable video of his play time with the seals at Sealville. We have not edited the videos yet. We are leaving tomorrow for our long passage south to Puerto Williams. It was really important to us that we post this blog of our special time with Petr and Tracy before we left so the videos will have to wait until we get to Puerto Williams. Sorry Petr.

Vessel Name: Karma
Vessel Make/Model: Sunward 48'
Hailing Port: West Palm Beach, FL
Crew: Clint, Reina & Duke
About: We've been working towards this for almost 10 years. It has been a dream with many challenges, all of which have made it more worth while. We are so grateful and excited to start this next chapter!
Extra: Twenty years fom now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the things that you did do. So sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, EXPLORE, DREAM, DISCOVER. -Mark Twain
Karma's Photos - Main
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1 Photo | 1 Sub-Album
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This is a marine park and home to many turtles
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21 Photos
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7 Photos
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Pig
4 Photos
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16 Photos
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58 Photos
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10 Photos
Created 27 February 2012
16 Photos
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23 Photos
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38 Photos
Created 30 January 2012
What we've been up to in G'Town
5 Photos
Created 17 January 2012
In and around Staniel Cay
10 Photos
Created 8 January 2012
Christmas & New Years 2011
67 Photos
Created 1 January 2012
Allens Cay to George Town
40 Photos
Created 10 December 2011
Heading to Miami
5 Photos
Created 14 November 2011
Leaving Sunset Bay Marina & on to the Bahamas
8 Photos
Created 12 November 2011
Getting ready for the big day! We moved Karma from her home of two years (WPB mooring) to Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart. Packed up the rest of our "crap", the stuff not coming with us & took it to Texas. After a nice visit with Reina's parents it was back to Stuart to get down & dirty & get Karma ready...
9 Photos
Created 9 November 2011

Karma in Motion

Who: Clint, Reina & Duke
Port: West Palm Beach, FL

Where are we?

Your destiny, is a result of your actions. Live by a code of conduct that will secure supreme hapiness and worldy joys; which are usually the little things.