The tables are turned
08 December 2014 | Isles de la Petite Terre, Guadeloupe
We left Dominica early the next morning for our 37nm trip up to Guadeloupe. This year we decided to go right into Pointe-à-Petre which is a major city on the south side. A bit of a diversion from recent years where we stopped in Iles des Saints or in Deshaies, this year we wanted to see the Tradewinds base here before heading to Antigua.
The sail was uneventful (which is good) with waves less than 4'. At times the wind was not quite strong enough so the 'green machine' had to help keep our speed up.
When we arrived at PP we dropped anchor outside the harbour and dinghied in to the base. At first glance I saw all these 'go fast' sailing machines at the dock in front of the office and hoped Tradewinds might have traded in the fleet for these sleek machines. No such luck. These were the boats that are part of the St Malo - Guadeloupe race. It reminded us of the time we saw them in Quebec City back in July of 2012 when they were about to start the trip from Quebec to St Malo. What a life these guys must have racing back and forth across the oceans.
Our visit complete the next morning we came in for a french breakfast of Cafe au Lait and croissants. Donna wandered about getting her 'french fix' and returned with some great french goodies.
After breakfast we said farewell to Pointe-à-Petre and motored in NO wind to a place called Isles de la Petite Terre for some great snorkelling and also to position ourselves for a direct run to Antigua when the wind returns, expected on Tuesday. These are two small islands are approx. 23nm north of Guadeloupe and are a National Wildlife Preserve
The entrance to the anchorage between the two islands is a bit tricky and shallow with large swells that push you in but once in there are plenty of complimentary mooring balls in what has to be the clearest water we have ever seen anywhere...bar none. The north part of the two islands are connected by a shallow reef which blocks any Atlantic swells and leaves the anchorage as calm as can be. Our approach today was pretty simple due to the lack of winds and the swells were quite low. I'd think twice entering here in any adverse winds at all.
We picked up a mooring ball away from crowds of day trippers out of PP that arrive everyday. At night the anchorage is all ours along with just a couple of cruisers on other mooring balls. The islands are uninhabited with the exception of a watch keeper at the light house. There is no electricity and the light is lit by gas stored in tanks below the light. As such there is absolutely no light pollution to spoil the fantastic clear night sky and we sit in our cockpit for hours looking up to the stars with no other sound but the fish jumping and surf lapping on the shore.
In the morning just as i was about to dive in for my morning swim I see a 5' Baraccuda lurking under our boat. The water is so clear we can take pictures of him. Needless to say this swim was short and included a dive mask so we could keep an eye on him. He seemed harmless enough but unnerving all the same so after breakfast we decided to leave "Barney", as we named him, alone and pick up another mooring ball closer to the reef. After a great snorkel trip of the reef and some hiking up to the light house and around the island we get back to our boat only to find Barney was back under OUR boat! We wondered if he was avenging my catching a smaller version, perhaps a relative of his, on the trip over, however, by now we are getting used to him, sort of, and we go on with our day.
The following day we are up early and await the first light to make our exit...no swimming. The swells are bigger at the entrance now but we make it out safely, lift sails and head straight to Antigua. Behind us is a Lagoon 38 with a French couple on board. After a great 10hr sail we both enter English Harbour Antigua at the exact same time.
Donna and I both quietly hoped that Barney wasn't also following us.