So Far Behind That I Don’t Know Where To Start
25 September 2014 | Port Vila, Efate - Vanuatu
Linda
We’ve been in Vanuatu almost 4 months now. It’s been a cultural experience that is almost beyond words. They say that the Ni-Van are the happiest people in the world and I wouldn’t question that for even a minute. You’d be hard pressed to not get a big smile or the raised eyebrow greeting from anyone you meet or pass on the street. We love it here.
The last time I blogged was from our first stop in the Banks Islands on Gaua. I think I mentioned helping prepare a flyer for their first Kastom Festival at Lakona Bay to be held in August. We didn’t get to join in but have been told by both yachties and the villagers that it was a great success. We’ve already prepared the flyers for 2015 and highly recommend attend if you’re in the neighborhood. Traditional canoe races, food, dancing, singing, magic, cooking, weaving and water music which is is played only on Gaua. It’s hard to describe, but I’ll do my best. A group of 4 to possibly 20 women stand in waist deep water near the beach (which is stunning black sand). The music is made using varying techniques of slapping and moving the water. All beautifully orchestrated. I can’t wait to be able to post some photos.
As an aside, the volcano on Gaua blew around 2007. Residents of the villages of Dolav and Ontar that we visited, as well as many others were forced to evacuate to another part of the island where they lived until 2009. In that two year period both their homes and gardens were lost to the overgrowth of plants, vines and ash. Traditional construction still prevails using bamboo, natangura and indigenous trees lashed together with vines. The bamboo is scored into flat panels and woven to create a very strong wall. They’re often very creative in their use of materials and occasionally you’ll see the bamboo painted for a different look. I’m not sure where they get the paint!
We departed Gaua saying we’d be back in about 3 weeks and made a day sail to Sola on Vanua Lava which is the government seat for the Banks Islands. Our assignment there was to meet the head of tourism and pass on the flyer for the Lakona Bay Festival and pick up some supplies for Chief Richard’s little store in Ontar. That quick stop lasted about 5 days. The weather turned less than desirable just after we arrived so we sat tight, enjoyed our visits ashore and socialized a bit with a French single-hander who we were moored next to.
As soon as conditions improved we headed on north to the village of Tivitwut to deliver a letter we’d been given by a yacht back in the Marshall Islands.