Chamela, Tenacatita, Barra, Manzanillo
05 January 2008
We left Isabela at 10:00am on the 29th of December and managed to sail more than half the way to Chamela. In the night, as we skirted Banderas Bay (Puerto Vallarta), we had a close encounter with a huge cruise ship, and shortly thereafter, we heard a strange noise and looked over the stern to see that we had a long line around the keel. Since we had the main up and were sailing downwind, turning on the motor wasn't an option. We could see the two parts of the line trailing behind in the intense phosphorescence, and we could see baits on the line coming up from behind on one side and receding on the other side, so at least the line was running past the keel. We passed a panga with several lights on, clearly the owner of the line. The line slowed us from about 5 knots to below 3 knots, but after about 30 minutes, it suddenly disappeared and we were free. Around Cabo Corrientes, the winds were gusting over 30 knots, so we had a great ride downwind. After a spectacular sunrise, the winds gradually died so the motor took us for the last 50 miles to Chamela.
We decided to stay at Chamela for New Year's eve, and spent the day diving and swimming at one of the islands before returning to anchor off the small village. Janos, a Pole who is married to a local girl, invited us to his family celebration of New Year's eve at their restaurant. Apart from us and a few family members, there were three young women who worked at the restaurant. They fed us posole, tequila, and beer, and we danced until after 2am. As before, Janos entertained us with his philosophy---he was an architect in the midwest of the US until four years ago, when he threw it all in and moved to Chamela. This year, he seems much less happy---I think he's discovered that the ideal simple life is not nearly as stimulating as he thought. My guess is that he won't be around Chamela for much longer.
The dinghy launch into the surf was another thrill---Greg decided he didn't want to get his clothes wet, so took them all off for the process.
It was an early departure on January 1st for Tenacatita, arriving at midday. We took the dinghy and kayak through the jungle trip to the back of the tourist beach, where we ate and Greg snorkeled the coral bay known as the aquarium.
Another early departure for Barra de Navidad on the 2nd of January, arriving at 9:30am. We decided to stay at the marina for two nights so Tane and Greg could enjoy the facilities, and so we could wash down the boat. We spent the rest of the first day around the pool, and dinghied over to the town for dinner. Sal and I left Greg and Tane with the dinghy and took the water taxi home. They showed up at the boat about 4am. The next day, we walked to the ocean beach, cleaned up the boat, and ate at one of the restaurants around the lagoon.
When we left the marina in the dark on January 4th, we found about 20 fishing pangas in the channel, catching bait for the day's fishing. I had to wake up Sal and have her stand at the bow to point them out so we didn't run over anyone. Since the entrance channel is quite narrow, there wasn't much room to avoid anyone.
Our first stop in Manzanillo was at Santiago bay, where we dived on the wreck that is near the shore. We then moved to the next bay to anchor of the Las Hadas resort. While Tane and Greg explored the grounds, Sal and I provisioned at the supermarket. After dinner at the restaurant overlooking the beach and anchorage, Tane and Greg took a taxi to town while the oldies turned in. It was about 3am when they returned to the boat and, in spite of whatever debauchery they had gotten up to, stowed the dinghy and everything else ready for another early departure, this time for Caleta de Campos, 130 miles to the south.
Near the southern entrance to the bay, at around 5:30am, I had to dodge a couple of large freighters---Manzanillo is an extremely busy port, and it really showed.
It's 11:20 am on January 5th as I write this. We're motorsailing south, about 30 miles out of Manzanillo.