The final stretch before departure has been longer than we hoped, but it seems we're just about done.
When we got back from Cuenca, we spent the Wednesday organizing some of the spares and gear on the boat. On Thursday, Tane watched the Brian Toss video on inspecting rigs, then put it into practice. Almost immediately, he started finding cracks in the lower swages. These are the metal fittings that are compressed onto the wires that hold up the mast (the stays and shrouds, also known as the standing rigging). Cracks of this kind are almost always caused by corrosion on the inside generating immense pressure. The pressure of the corrosion keeps things together for a while, but under heavy load the fitting can burst apart. Under such pressure, the mast usually comes down. Sailing with cracks like this is not a good idea at all, so we really had to fix the problems. The solution was to cut the wire just above the lower fittings, install a different type of connection which in many ways is better, and then manufacture a special extension piece to compensate for the shortened wire. The wire itself, outside the swage fitting, was fine. The first step was to order the compression fittings from Miami. We'd heard all sorts of horror stories about parts arriving very quickly in Guayaquil, and then being held up for about three weeks, requiring numerous trips back and forth. The parts were finally on the way on Monday, March 16th. Amazingly, they were at the boat on the morning of Friday, March 20th. It has taken the following week to get the extensions manufactured and installed, and the rig tuned.
While we were organizing things on the interior of the boat, we discovered a few places that needed rust treatment, so we have the workers here take care of it. All of the work is managed by George Stewart (Stewart Yacht Works). He has a long history of boat work, and really does a great job. This meant we had to stay out of the boat for three days.
We discovered that the main VHF radio would no longer transmit reliably, so that had to be replaced. I installed a new AIS unit (Automatic Idenfication System). This receives signals from any large ships nearby, computes the closest point of approach, and the time of the approach. We can set an alarm so we know well ahead of time if we're going to be anywhere close.
We've done plenty of maintenance, had the Honda engine on the Hookah dive unit fixed, checked and worked on all of the boat systems, and spent a considerable amount of time stowing things.
Sal has been doing a great job provisioning. It has taken many trips and now the boat is stuffed to the gunwhales. The final run for fresh fruit and vegetables is being done today.
Getting our exit zarpe (the document issued by the customs, immigration, port captain, and navy that allows us to leave) has been quite a process. First, I had to supply medical reasons for our having stayed longer than the 6 months normally allowed. Then they all visited to inspect the boat. A de-ratting certificate was required (no actual inspection for rats, just a payment for a document!). We had to pay for the transportation of the officials. An agent, Roque, was required by the law here. All up, it ended up costing us around $350, and plenty of time. Just now, on Friday morning, we had the final inspection from customs and the agent, signed about 20 pieces of paper, received our passports, and the much vaunted zarpe. Our plans are to leave tomorrow morning.
Because the boat has been in such an uproar, it would have been very difficult staying on it so we've been staying in the accommodations that are part of the Puerto Lucia Yacht club. It's quite a fancy setup, with swimming pools, restaurant, exercise room, private beaches, and bars. To get to the rooms you cross a small canal that has a lift bridge. Offshore, there is a fleet of shrimpers and tuna boats, and future out, there are usually about 10 oil tankers waiting to load and unload from the oil refinery that is a mile or turner further into the bay. As you cross the bridge you notice quite a lot of oil on the water, and the walls of the canal are jet black and oily. There are constant streams of bubbles rising in the canal. It turns out that the bubbles are propane. This is an oil producing area and there are pumpjacks around the town. It's not clear whether the bulk of the oil is seeping from the underground source, or whether it is coming from the boats offshore.
During the week, there is nobody around, but on the weekend there are 100 to 200 people at the club, in the pools, restaurant, etc.
The two main managers here are Mario Roseney and Galo Ortiz. Both have lived in the USA for some time, and both speak perfect English. They have been a great help in many ways, and particularly in dealing with the random vagaries of the officials.
We've met a number of great people here. David Read is a crazy pom who arrived on his Oyster 40, Noonrush, two days after we got here. He has spent about 5 years on his way from England. On the way, he has fathered two girls in Brazil. His plans are to continue on around the Horn and back up to Brazil. His definition of Brazilian coffee beans is lurid and graphic.
Tom is a Polish Australian. His boat Marlin is a Hunter Legend 38. He advertised for crew, and now has two young Americans, Sean and Brad, as crew. He seems to have chosen well. Tane has spent several nights to 3 or 4 am with the Marlin crew! Tom left for the Galapagos yesterday, and we hope to catch up with them in the Marquesas.
We've been going out to eat and drink at night with Dave, Tom, Sean and Brad. Some of it has been quite entertaining. The night before Marlin left, for example, we were at a restaurant being served by a lady with significant breasts. At one point, she leaned over to serve Tane and he was sprayed with breast milk. This is a novel new way to serve drinks at a restaurant.
One notable excursion was to Farallon Dillon, a funky hostal, resort, restaurant, and nautical museum. The photos of the sort-of lighthouse, hammock, and Tane in chains are from there.
There's a new arrival, Bill. I don't yet know his boat name. He bought a boat on the US west coast, spent a short while learning how to operate it, then sailed south. Because he was afraid of going to Mexico, he stayed offshore and just kept going. The US Coastguard had to rescue him off Panama. When he turned up here from Panama, the boat was hardly able to move from the massive buildup of weeds and gooseneck barnacles on the bottom. We hear he has 2600 ounces of silver on board. Foolishly, he let the customs officials know that, and the fact that he had 40 bottles of whiskey stashed away. Now they keep turning up at his boat saying they have a big problem with the silver, but a bottle of whiskey will help keep things quiet. I wonder what will happen when he runs out of whiskey. He plans to sail around the Horn to Uruguay in company with David. This is not a good idea.
Kena was launched on Wednesday with the mast held up mostly by halyards. Tane was at the helm, and when we returned, he performed his first med-moor. This involves backing the boat into a slot between two other boats with about four feet on each side. He did a great job of hitting the slot perfectly, even though there was a cross wind.
It will be a bit of a rush to be ready by morning, but it seems possible. Luckily, there's so much to do there's no danger of leaving today, a Friday. There's a superstition that you should never leave port on a Friday.