7am, Tuesday, July 6, 2010 Hana Moe Noa Bay, Tahuata Island

We arrived here, just in the nick of 'light' yesterday after a beautiful sail from Fatu Hiva Island. Sun sets here around 6 pm and we put our anchor down at about 6:10.

The sun rose above the volcanic peaks of the island of Tahuata this morning around 7. Now, just a few hours later, clouds encircle the tops of the mountains sending rain and 'williwaws' our way. A williwaw is a strong gust of wind that blasts down the mountain valleys and out across the water. We experienced some of those yesterday while coming into this anchorage. They were so strong we had to take down our jib and reef the main to its second reef point, making it quite small. At a guess, the gusts were between 30-40 knots!

The Polynesian word, Tahuata comes from Tahu=fire and ata=spirit. This anchorage is listed as one of the most popular on this island, but at present, we are here all alone. We hope to do some snorkelling today and have a walk on the beach - one of the few beaches in the Marquesas. Beaches a rare in the Marquesas, due to the fact that the islands are mostly volcanic. This island does have a beach and that is because it is one which has coral reefs nearby.

The best description of the make up of the 4 groups of islands that make up French Polynesia (Marquesas, Tuamotus, Society and Australe Islands), is from a guide book we have called 'Landfalls of Paradise'. The following is a direct quote:

The islands of French Polynesia (an overseas territory of France in the southeast corner of Oceania) contain a cross-section of the geologic history of Pacific landmasses. The Marquesas are high islands, young in age, too new to have developed any appreciable fringing coral growth. At the other extreme, the islands of the Tuamotu Archipelago are true atolls - lagoons ringed by coral reefs - that long ago swallowed up the remaining landmasses. Between these two geologic extremes are the volcanic, reef-fringed islands called the Society Islands, which have become the principal islands of French Polynesia. They have fertile coastal plains of volcanic ash for growing food, plus a protective barrier reef that shelters the inhabited shoreline, provides a haven for fish as well as local outrigger transportation, and now makes possible safe harbours for modern ships. Tahiti, in the Society Islands is a nearly perfect combination of mountain, coastal plain, shoreline and reef. It is not at all surprising, then, that Polynesian civilization concentrated there.

At Fatu Hiva, we were able to see the stunning, jagged peaks of the volcanic mountains. Surprisingly though, even in their incredible steepness, they are covered in green. At the tops, the vegetation is more sparse than in the lower parts and valleys. The contrast of the jagged, harsh mountain top profiles to the gentle, rich valleys, is breathtaking. We could clearly see and taste the fertility of the land. Along the side of the few roads that exist, there are noni, banana, lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit, breadfruit, papaya and mango trees. Also, mostly in the valleys and along the rocky shores, there are coconut palms.

The currency used here is the Pacific Franc, but the villagers prefer to trade, especially with cruisers, who bring in things that they can not easily access. We were asked for clothes, makeup, shoes, ropes and candy. Back to Gromit we went and looked through our things. After a successful trading session, we returned to Gromit with limes, lemons, oranges, grapefruit - the sweetest we have ever tasted - about 40 bananas, still on the stock(called a bushel) and 3 coconuts. Right off the trees - you simply can't find fresher!

We trekked up the valley to see Vai'e'enui Falls. This hour and a half hike began on a cement road which then turned into dirt and eventually was nothing but a rugged dirt and stone path weaving quite steeply up the side of the mountain. Our guide books all give different heights, so I'll have to say that the waterfall is between 200-300 feet high. There hadn't been much rain so the water falling down was just a trickle. The pool at the bottom was very refreshing and we swam for about 1/2 hour.

As it was nearing the end of the day and being well refreshed, we began on our way down. Along the way, no matter where we looked, we saw stunning mountain peaks, green hills and lush valleys. Closer around us we saw fruit trees with limbs hanging full with ripe, delicious fruit.

When we arrived back at the village, we were told about the dancing and drumming that was going to take place. This was in preparation for a two week festival called Heiva I Tahiti.

First we saw the youngest dancers practising outside on the volleyball court. Drummers were set up at one end of the court and the kids were in lines facing the drummers. Could those drummers pound out a rhythm!!! And could those kids dance! Their dance was simple yet the movements were intricate. The girls were very good at the hip movement which characterizes the Polynesian style of dance. Next we went over to the hall, where the men and women were dancing. Again the drummers were creating the beat and the dancers did their beautiful steps and arm and hip movements. Their style of dancing was very graceful and gentle. It was apparent that they were telling a story as they sang while they danced. How lucky we were to have had a chance to see this!

We are spending one full day here in this sheltered bay and then sailing to Nuku Hiva tomorrow, where we will officially check into the country. We belong to the Pacific Puddle Jump group, which arranges check in and a bond exemption for arriving cruisers. If you don't have a bond exemption or a European passport, you have to deposit an amount of money equal to a flight home, before they let you in. The kids and I all have European passports, so for us it wasn't an issue. But without the exemption, Michael would have had to have paid.

Artemo is currently in Hiva Oa doing their check in and will be heading to Nuku Hiva in a couple of days, where we will meet up with them again.