Day 10: Saturday November 17, 2012 (South Edisto River Anchorage to Skull Creek/Hilton Head)

The 17th began with a real sun rise and it had been awhile since we had witnessed one. The anchorage was great. We were alone, had plenty of swing room, and had found the perfect spot. We pulled anchor and were on our way by 7:50AM making it back to the ICW in ten minutes. It was such a beautiful morning on the River that we were both shocked when the port engine alarm began to shriek at 8:15. I immediately checked and it was still pumping water, but Michael immediately turned it off and I went below to gather all engine troubleshooting books. It would seem that we had a V Belt or alternator problem but we would have to make day 10 a one engine day.
Even with one engine we did well. We made good time and were able to survive the current in the canals and cuts on the Ashpoo and Coosaw Rivers. The interesting fact was that the tide was so high that some of the markers were barely visible, with the water touching the bottom of the red/green portion of the markers. KiKeKo really did well with one engine and the flooded rivers of South Carolina. The bridge tender held the Ladies Island Bridge for us and we came through at 12:15. Next stop Beaufort and the thoughts of tide and the Beaufort Highway Bridge since high tide at registered at 11:45.
The Beaufort Bridge did not have a vertical clearance board so I called the Port Royal Marina which sits at the foot of the Bridge. Tom said that with only three boards showing, that meant that it was at approximately 61'. Since we are 64'+ we had a wait. This situation of bridge waiting has made we think of the years that I crossed bridges and never wondered how high it was from the water and if there were boats that were limited in moving because of its' clearance. Since I have started living on a boat and traveling by water, it has become a serious issue that very few people are even aware of. Because if you've never waited for hours and changed your schedule because of tides, floods, full moon it really wouldn't seem to be a very important issue. Just a thought. Now Back to the day.
We were invited to tie up at Port Royal. Twice in three days have we been allowed to tie up at no cost while waiting for a bridge. Maybe these marinas are taking the "never turn a ship away in bad weather" maritime standard to heart or maybe they are hoping for great word of mouth advertising. Either way it has been very considerate. While at Port Royal, I opened the port engine and checked the belts and our V Belt had definitely given up and was the cause of port engine failure. The decision was made to clear the bridge and attempt to get to Hilton Head and replace the V Belt (I have taken a lot of criticism over the years about my overstocked inventory but having two such belts was appreciated, at the moment.)
We cleared the Beaufort Highway Bridge a little after 2 and proceeded to Hilton Head, arriving at Skull Creek Marina shortly after 4. The current is extremely heavy in this area. That North East wind is a real bear, (again, it has a different impact when you live on land then when fighting it for multiple days while on the water). We made it in even though Michael and I have really grown to understand and appreciate the advantage of having two engines when attempting to pivot a 43' boat.
 
Day 11: Sunday November 18, 2012 (Skull Creek/Hilton Head to Savannah)

Day 11 began at 1AM with creaking and moaning as KiKeKo was beginning slammed into the dock at Skull Creek. The North East wind was blowing steadily at 25 knots and gusting above that. Two of our fenders had popped out and KiKeKo was pinned against the dock. Luckily, it was not as cold as it has been, because Michael called me to help and PJs was my wardrobe of choice, no time to dress warmly. We had a plan and pushed against the wind to get KiKeKo away from the dock so that we could drop additional fenders and turn the vertical fenders to their horizontal position. Michael and I had very limited chances in pitting out strength (or lack thereof) against the 25+ knot winds but we fought it out, waited for breaks in the wind strength and really exerted every muscle so that by 2:20 we had all fenders horizontal, the orange ball fenders in place and two small fenders providing additional protection.
The wind was gusting so hard that birds were either in hiding for flying inches above the water, getting any altitude was impossible. No birds were on the old dock posts next to the Marina. Luckily, the morning dock master was older and experienced ( the young man who had docked us the night before had put us in the worst possible location) and knew how to pivot away from the dock. Michael turned on the port engine (*w/o the belt) just log enough to hit reverse and pivot the bow away from the dock. The current was very strong but KiKeKo has the beam and the engine power necessary to move against current. KiKeKo pulled out of Skull Creek at 7:45AM.
Next challenge the Hilton Head Bridge. We were three hours past low tide and that Bridge has always been a sketchy endeavor. In last years notes I found "5 boards allows a clearance". As we approached the Bridge, I grabbed my friendly binoculars and moved to the bow. I could not believe it when I counted six boards. We had a clear shot under the Hilton Head Bridge and by 8:45 had reached marker #32 and the entrance to the Cooper River.
We are getting close to Georgia. Georgia is the criss/cross state in that the ICW zigs and then zags through the state. Georgia is also the state that did not request dredging when the Corp of Engineers asked the states to file formal applications for dredging the ICW. Whenever possible we attempt to avoid the ICW and go outside to Fernandina Beach, Florida but that was impossible today. We were meeting Tim and Jan at Thunderbolt in Savannah and there were "Small Craft Warning" in the Atlantic with the winds gusting to 30kts and seas 6-11 feet.
We slowly moved through the cuts and reached the Savannah River a little after 10. The St. Louis E, a large freighter was going out the Savannah so we slowed and let her pass and then crossed to the Elbe Cut. KiKeKo hit the 11 opening of the Causton Bluff Bridge and cleared the fixed bridge just before Thunderbolt. We pulled in at 11:30.
We made arrangements to have a mechanic come on Monday morning to replace the V-Belt,
registered, got the necessary information about getting a notary, and settled in to wait. We had lunch
and spent the afternoon reading and relaxing. Tim and Jan showed up around 4 and we spent the
evening on the boat; having dinner, unloading their things from the rental car, reorganizing the port
side, and talking about the plans. The crew is now complete, so day 12 will be the real first day with
KiKeKo and her crew.
 
Day 12-Monday- November 19,2012 (Savannah to Walburg Creek, Georgia)

At 6:45 the Krispy Kreme Donuts and the morning Savannah newspaper arrived. By 8 the mechanic had
come, the V-Belt was replaced, and we were getting ready to go to Bank of America (the notary), the
UPS for shipment, and Enterprise for rental return. Tim and I left a few minutes before 9 and everything
went well. By 10:15 we were ready to leave. The current was pushing so we easily pulled away. About
thirty yards away from the dock Jan asked Michael if he had filled the water tank. Time to return to fill
the water tank. Thunderbolt is a very understanding Marina, the dockmaster assisted with the tie up
and handed us the hose to fill the tank.

Forty minutes later, we were off again. Michael was at the helm. One of the many stories that we had
read about Georgia was ahead. The Skidaway Bridge is an opening Bridge that was being replaced by a
new 65" bridge that sits in front of it. That bridge was built with Georgia standards and did not meet the
inspection criteria so was not opened. Therefore, we have a bridge "that may or may not meet the 65'
standards" sitting in front of a Skidaway Opening Bridge. That monster substandard bridge looked very
tall but who could know, the tender at Skidaway had no idea what the clearance was but we decided to
give it a try. Success with plenty of clearance space.

At 1PM, Jan took the helm for the first time. She and Tim were at the helm for an hour with no
problems, even though following the markers in Georgia is always interesting because there is
frequently a piece of land (sand bars) between the markers, the criss/crossing of Georgia.

I took the helm at 2 and started for St. Catherine's Sound. Because of the current we were traveling
At 9+kts. We were moving and it was getting warmer, lower 60s. The sun was attempting to come
out. We had made the decision to stop at the southern end of Walburg Creek since we knew that it
would be dark by 5 and finding markers along this part of the ICW in the dark is almost impossible.

Shortly after 4, we entered the Creek and did a thorough search for a good spot in approximately 12
feet of water, that would give us depth for a 6 foot tidal fall.
 
Day 13- Tuesday November 20,2012 (Walburg Creek, Georgia to the Mackay-Lanier Bridge-Brunswick)

Miracle or miracles, a real sunrise over Walburg Creek. We were up early and ready to go by 7 but the tide was low and it is a slow and deliberate trip out of the Creek with the shallow spots reading less than 4 feet. We need 3.8'. By 2:25AM we were back in the ICW and began the criss/cross of Georgia to get to Brunswick.
The sun was out, the temperature was above 60 heading for 70 and the winds were below 10kts. The current was with us and we moved through DoBoy Sound and into the Mud Flats. Everyone was spending a brief hour at the hem, there were a lot of boats, and it was a sunny/comfortable day for a change.
By 1 we had reached the Mackay-Lanier Bridge on the Mackay River. As we moved closer, it was obvious that you could see less than two boards. We called Grand Isle and inquired about the tides. High tide was scheduled for 2:20 and we had another " bridge wait " at hand.
Our issue of the day had been the generator. We turned it on before leaving Walburg Creek. We started with no problems, pumper water, but ten minutes into the cycle it stopped generating electricity. It was turned off and checked but the decision was made to wait until the evening to check the belts and working parts that we could examine. "Let's call the Golden Isle, get the Bridge height, anchor until we can pass, and work on the generator." We have a plan. The dockmaster at Golden has no idea what the height is at the Bridge, so we call Tow Boat US (no knowledge but we are at high tide). The clearance board is on the south side so let's wait for some of the boats we passed to catch us and navigate under the bridge. Thirty minutes later a sail boat with a 54' mast, "Music" appeared. The call from the south side was 63'.
The decision was to anchor and wait so we pulled into the Creek on the port side of the north side of the Bridge as you head south. It was a nice anchorage and we were alone. At 2 we sat down and drew up the plan. We wouldn't be able to get under the Bridge until after dark, Grand Isle would be closed as would Brunswick Marine, and it would be another night of groping around in the dark. Decision-anchor overnight, leave at low tide and first light in the morning and go outside for the trip to Florida.
After lunch, the generator calls and examination began. Tim and Michael alternating going into the port stern compartment. After several hours it was determined that we needed a capacitor. The remainder of the afternoon and evening was read, relax, have dinner, and talk. Not exciting but a pleasant way to spend a Tuesday in November.
 
Day 14- Wednesday- November 21, 2012 (Mackay-Lanier Bridge/Brunswick-Fernandina Beach, Florida)
KiKeko was ready to go early the next morning and we were out of the anchorage by 6:45. We were coming to low tide and passed under the Bridge ay five plus boards, more than 65'. As we cleared the Bridge we started to see the larger freighters entering St. Simon Sound. The decision had been made to go outside so KiKeKo headed out close to the port side of the channel.
As usual it was a bumpy ride but by 7:45 we were in the Atlantic heading southeast. Seas were 3-5' and the wind was 10kts out of the north as we turned, set the course at 188 degrees, set the auto pilot, and began Tim and Jan's first brief ocean voyage on the trip.
Now I understand why Ocean Sailing blogs are short and bland. Ocean travel can be very limited in excitement and adventure. The events summarized: my stomach didn't adjust well to the following sea even though it wasn't much of a sea, we left Georgia waters at 10:40, ran parallel to a large boat under sail for several hours, heard multiple Coast Guard warnings about white whales off Jacksonville, and turned into the Fernandina Beach/Amelia Island Channel shortly after 11AM.
It was a brief and quick journey and by noon we had filled with fuel and been moved to the southern end of the main dock. Sailing had been brief and uneventful, but work was successful. The electric winch is fully installed and the Sirius Weather System is full installed. The capacitor has been ordered for delivery at Fort Pierce and it was a warm, sunny day in Florida.
Since the plan is to head to St. Augustine on the outside tomorrow, Thanksgiving 2012, we went out for a Thanksgiving dinner that included a Southern Boil, Shrimp Pasta, Shrimp and Crab Louis Salad, and Shaved Prime Rib Sandwich (no turkey to be had in Fernandina Beach on the Thursday before Thanksgiving ). We promised to have a turkey breast once we reach Fort Lauderdale.

 
Day 15- Thursday- November 22, 2012 Thanksgiving Day (Fernandina beach, Florida to St Augustine, Florida)

Spending Thanksgiving Day on a boat without family, without turkey, without the afternoon NFL football games, and without the parades and hoop la of the neighborhoods while making an Atlantic trip from Fernandina to St. Augustine is a learning experience. The first order of this Thanksgiving Day was to check the water tanks and fill up the port tank. The second activity was to get off the pier with a strong wind trying to keep us there , it took three human thrusters to push us off. Thanksgiving would be a day to remember because it became one of the roughest days that we have spent in the Atlantic.
When we turned the corner to enter the Fernandina/St Mary's River Atlantic entrance the wind was only 14 kts but directly on our bow with 8 foot seas. We were slamming into the sea. It wasn't an experience similar to preparing a thirty pound turkey with fifteen pounds of dressing for twenty people but it certainly got your attention, kept you sharp, and caused a different type upset stomach. I am not sure how much effect chewing ginger gum, eating ginger candy and taking Bonine does but I survived a very bumpy early morning.
The day was exciting with winds between fifteen and twenty knots with higher gusts out of the northwest. The seas were also following as we moved south and were ten to fifteen feet high. The temperature was in the fifties but with seas and wind behind us we were wrapped in layers of clothing, covered with blankets, but still very cold. Under power we were moving and the trip was shorter than normal but it was not a fun way to spend the day.
The real issue was the turn into At. Augustine since, as we turned to head in, the seas and wind would be breaking on our starboard side. The boat movement would go from wallowing to crashing . We also had to hit the channel into St Augustine that is narrow and runs between breakers that we couldn't see because of the seas. Thank goodness for having two GPSs. The seas were breaking over the top of the bimini and we were like a cork bobbing with the markers. When we finally saw the breakers, we were very close and about to be hit by a wave. It was a frightening experience but KiKeKo is a strong vehicle and took it without problem.
As we passed marker #2 and moved toward the Bridge of Lion in St. Augustine, it was as if the wind and seas of the Atlantic were in a different story. It was great being inside and we started for Ponce De Leon Inlet. However, there was a 65' bridge that we had to clear and as we approached it was sitting at 62', "Bridge Wait". We made the call to the City Marina and found that we would not be able to clear that bridge until morning. The decision was made to take a mooring ball at the City Marina.
Tim and I went forward to pick up the mooring ball line for #61. First injuries of our trip for both of us-rope burned hands for Tim and a bruised breast bone for me. However, the injured were successful, we attached the line to the bridle and got it down. Time to fix Thanksgiving dinner.
I fixed chicken breast, mashed potatoes and gravy, cranberry sauce, and green beans; similar but no turkey and no dressing. That will happen before Christmas. We had a pleasant evening, turning in before 8. Sailing can be a very tiring experience but it felt good to be on a mooring ball.
 
Day 16-Friday November 23, 2012 Black Friday (St Augustine, Florida to Daytona Beach, Florida)

I was never much of a Black Friday shopper so I didn't miss that at all, however, the concept hit that when one travels by boat for long distances, one doesn't shop at all. One only buys diesel fuel, ice, and the basics of food and milk when possible. The self sufficiency of living on the boat takes away the almost daily experience of shopping because you could and the family always needed something. Another lifestyle change.
By 6:55AM we had cleared the 312 Bridge and were on our way. When we first started making the ICW trip we hated those opening bridges and were so happy when the Corp started pushing for the 65' foot bridges, no more waiting for the opening. Whoever came up with 65' should be shot. With tides, current. Flooding and errors in construction 65" has become a wishful dream especially for people with a 64' mast.
There was a very heavy current and because of the flooding there was a significant amount of shoaling. Once we entered the Palm Coast area, the tidal fall became minimal. As we hit the bridges, our whip antenna was exercised to the fullest and spent most of the time laying flat but the wind instruments escaped. Then we hit Flagler Bridge, the vertical board read 61' and a resident confirmed that they only had a "one foot tidal drop", "Bridge Wait". This lasted two hours and was limited to a channel trip up and back since we were in the cut. At 1:30 we cleared the Flagler Bridge by an inch, if that.
KiKeKo picked up the speed and we made Daytona by 4. The first bridge was close but cleared and then we saw Seabreeze Bridge, followed closely by another 65 ' and two opening downtown bridges. As we got close to the board, it read less than 62'. We made multiple calls to find that we wouldn't be able to make that bridge until 1AM. So the only answer was to anchor and spend the evening in Daytona.
Heath note: Tims' hands are blistered and my breast bone is very sore but we shall survive.
 
Day 17-Saturday November 24,2012 (Daytona Beach to Titusville, Florida )

Another morning of waiting was to materialize as we approached the Seabreeze to find it still sitting at less than 62'. We were up by 7 and began a three hour trip between two bridges. Everyone was becoming more and more annoyed because we realized that there were thirteen bridges between Daytona and Fort Pierce, this could become impossible . The winds outside were heavy with heavy seas. Could we take another St. Augustine Day?
Then we met Lady Jane, a new motorsailer with a 64' mast who was willing to be the canary for the day. Lady Jane reported that all vertical boards in Daytona were incorrect and that 61' was really 63' so we should clear the bridges. At 10:45 we did. There were no more bridge issues for the day with Lady Jane in front and the whip antenna ready to bend, we made all bridges, close but successful.
The next issue was current and shoaling especially around Ponce De Leon inlet. After we cleared the inlet and passed the New Smyrna Bridges it was a clear shot to Titusville. This was a day of seeing the manatees for the first time this year and we were surrounded by porpoises. Birds were everywhere, especially the pelicans. It was sunny and warm and it was a beautiful trip watching all of the sea life as we passed through the Mosquito Lagoon .
By 3:30 we had reached Haulout Canal. There were many small fishing boats, pelicans and osprey on every marker and bridge, and fishermen, young and old, fishing along the Canal. As we turned toward Titusville, Lady Jane called to say that the last Titusville Bridge was close but passable and they had anchored just south of the bridge. We decided to join them. By 5 the anchor was down and we watched a beautiful sunset over Titusville. Next Day Fort Pierce.
 
Day 18- Sunday November 25, 2012 (Titusville, Florida to Fort Pierce, Florida)

Another day of bridges. The capacitor for the generator was scheduled for a Monday delivery at the Fort Pierce City Marina. The plan was to pick it up, spend Monday night at anchorage and get to Fort Lauderdale, the outside route, on Tuesday. We were up early to hit low tides and slack water. The bridges along the Titusville, Cape Cannaveral, Banana River, Cocoa Beach route were all sitting at 64' so we had a close but passable day.
While Michael was at the helm, Tim was below replacing the fresh water pump. I was beginning to think that by the time we reached Lauderdale, we would have a completely new set of pumps. Everyone did seem pleased about my overactive tendency to purchase pumps for the inventory.
It was a sunny, clear Sunday with temperatures in the seventies and winds under 10 kts. We were followed by pelicans even though we were not a fishing boat with dinner riding on board. This was an area with a lot of areas that required slowing down because of the presence of manatees. You could see the big, slow moving creatures floating along. There were also hundreds of porpoises joining the manatees in their playground.
Since it was a beautiful Sunday there were hundreds of fishing boats and day time sailors. For the first time, the concept of Florida and its' vacation life style really hit me. There were many older people, men and women, with grey hair and the weathered look sitting in small boats with fishing gear and coolers. I wondered how many were from New Jersey.
This was one of those leisurely uneventful trips where we cleared the bridges, we hit bottom once, we watched the sea creatures all around us, and arrived in Fort Pierce in late afternoon. BY 5:15 the anchor was down. The water pump was working well. I took more pictures in pink and I really always had a strong distaste for pink. As soon as I get the chance I'll share pink sunsets and sunrises that we encountered on the first twenty days.
 
Day 19- Monday November 26 and Tuesday November 27, 2012 (Fort Pierce, Florida to Hobe Sound)

I called the City Marina before 9 to determine delivery times for the Fed Ex/UPS trucks. I had spoken to Ann several times and she said that she was on the lookout for our package but the trucks usually didn't arrive until 11 and were frequently late on Mondays. We decided to sit at anchor and read. I hectic way to spend the day. 11:30 call-no deliveries. 12:30 call-no deliveries. 2:00- delivery. Decison making time. Number 1-Pick it up and start for Hobe Sound, anchoring when it begins to get dark. Number 2: Relax the rest of the day, pick it up in the morning (they open at 8) and go to Hobe. Number 2, the winner hands down.
Day 19 became Tuesday when we pulled into the City Marina around 8:30, picked up the package, and left for the Atlantic. Since it was a calm morning we decide to go outside to Jupiter or Palm Beach. It really was a shorts and t-shirt day even though we were outside. It was not a totally flat day but the seas were 3 to 4 feet and the wind was on our bow so were not rocking.
Michael was getting ready to take his watch and he noticed the red light shining brightly, the red light means that bilge pumps are working, and bilge pumps work when you are taking on water. Tim was told to go to the St.Lucie Inlet and get inside , much easier said than done. St. Lucie is one of the Inlets that sail boats are told to avoid without "local knowledge" because there is extreme shoaling.
Michael and I went below and began the search for water, starboard engine compartment, port engine compartment, mid cabin air condition/heat pump, water, drain pump compartments on port and starboard. Success we were taking water on the starboard side in the air condition pump compartment. The pumps were keeping up with the water but we needed to isolate the source of the leak. The concern was that when we hot bottom on Sunday had we done external damage, if so we could do a short pull out in Lauderdale but the trip to Lauderdale might be dicey.
The trip through St. Lucie was bumpy and, as usual, scarey side we certainly did not want to hit bottom again, especially on then starboard hull. We took it slow and stayed in the middle. Made the turn into the ICW just before a late lunch. By the time we had lunch we were approaching the Hobe opening bridge. By 2:45 the anchor was down just off marker #40 on the Sound. We have anchored here before and it was always one of Macs favorite anchorages.
After lunch, the work began. Tim and Jan took the new capacitor and began the replacement process on the generator. Michael and I began the search of a water leak on the starboard side. Finding a water leak when you are sitting in a gigantic pool of water, is not an easy thing since there is always water in the various bilges but not enough to start the pumps.
An hour later Tim was still standing on his head attempting to get a nut and bolt in place on the generator. Jan was playing the generator plumbing assistant.
Michael and I were checking all pumps and for leaks. SUCCESS. The air condition/heat pump was loose and there was no O-ring. We played the usual trouble shooting games. Pumped all of the water out of that bilge and left it open so that we could keep a check for several hours. BY 4:30 the day was complete with no leaks, an electric system that worked by generator, and a 78 degree sunny afternoon.
 
Day 20- Wednesday November 28, 2012 (Hobe Sound to Fort Lauderdale, Florida)

The plan was to go out Jupiter Inlet and stay outside until we reached the Lauderdale/Port Everglades Inlet. It was another warm, sunny day with light winds, and light seas. The trip through Jupiter was the usual. Many years ago Michael and I read that we should stay clear of Jupiter because it is not a good inlet because of shoaling and it's very short with little space for maneuvering if there are fishing boats in the inlet and entering/exiting the inlet. However, we have used it many times and never had a problem. Add one more non problematic exit.
One note about the 707 Bridge, an opening bridge before the lighthouse and inlet. It is supposed to be closed between 7 and 9. We saw it at 10 til 7 nbiut knew that we couldn't make the opening at 7 so we prepared mentally for "bridge wait". However, we found a great bridge tender who opened for us at 7:15, maybe the tides have turned.
By 10Am ther winds had picked up but they were still below 10 kts andf everything was with us so we were moving down the coast, passing Palm Beach, Boca, and the other inlets along the Florida coast. By 2:30 we were entering Fort Lauderdale just in time for the 3PM opening of the 17 Street Causeway bridge. The only problem was that the bridges along the New River close from 4 to 6 and we knew that hitting the last bridges before the Marine Center was going to be tight, so we decided to stay along the wall of the River. I called Matt and Kevin and arranged for tie up at spots 4, 5, or6 across from the Imax and Museums where we stayed several years ago. The starboard tie wouldn't work because of the current in the River so we had to settle for a port tie.
We filled the water tanks and spent time relaxing. We had decided to walk across the 7th street bridge and along the boardwalk. A celebration dinner was in order since we had reached Ft. Lauderdale for final work to be done. We had our dinner at Brineys. We actually stayed up until after 9. The next few days, lay over, will be spent with work being done on the boat and her engines, replacing inventory items (both equipment and food), laundry (first time in a month), and getting working on the sailing plans when leaving Key West, a real lay over.