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Suakin, amazing place
12/04/2010, Sawakin, Sudan

Today Werner and Uwe got the flexible coupling out! It's a big relief to get it done and not a drop of water went inside the boat. Uwe helped us again diving under the boat. Tomorrow they will move again going north and it will be sad to see them go. We hope we will be able to catch up with them before the Suez Canal.
Just before lunch we drove north to Port Sudan. It's a very good smooth road through the sand, several settlements of what could only be called tents or cardboard shacks, they all looked they will break anytime but most were tidy and cared for. Sometimes we saw camels and goats. Some of the houses are far from everything. We could see some women walking with very colourful dressed (pink, red, yellow) so different than Oman and Yemen where they all dressed in black. In town we only could see men, one or two women only. Port Sudan was a lot bigger than we expected, the streets are wide streets and some old colonial buildings not in a too bad shape.
We went to the DHL to check the possibility to send the part and it was nice to talk with the manager. We still don't know how much it will cost yet but at least we know where we will send the part to.
We went after to the Palace Hotel to check the internet to get some manuals downloaded and we were able to speak on skype! It's nice sometimes even for a short time. Tomorrow we will try to get the part ordered and this week we will be here waiting, doing school and some jobs on the boat. We will also enjoy the internet connection that we can get inside the boat.

13/04/2010 | Dominique
Best of luck with that. Was great to talk to you on Skype and at last find your blog.
16/04/2010 | MILLETO
estou feliz de ver que vcs estão bem e curtindo essa incrível viajem..conheçi agora as crianças que já estão grandes. Lá em casa tb tem o Lucca, Enzo e Theo ( 3,5 anos ) boa sorte e aproveitem !
We arrived in Suakin!!!
09/04/2010, Suakin, Sudan

After two days we arrived in Suakin. The first day we got towed between reefs to another anchorage where we just stayed in the boat. It was windy and there was no beaches close by. Today we left early and we sailed to Suakin, it was only 20 miles away but the wind was northwest and it took 6 hours to do it. Getting close to the harbour there are ruins. This was the main port of Sudan until when decided to build another one, Port Sudan. So there are ruins everywhere you go.
The ruins and dirt roads give the impression of a mixture of ghost town and desert. We will take lots of pictures because it's not a place you can come for a holiday but it has a good feeling about. The people are very friendly. There are not many cars here, they use donkey and cart, some camels and plenty of goats.
We went for a short walk and we found a 'bakery'. A room where we could see bags of flour in the floor, lots of wooden trays with bread (pita bread) and a large oven (wood fire). There was 4 men working there and they didn't speak English but we took some pictures, talk with them and were able to buy some bread (6 for 50 cents). We will be back there for fresh bread. We had time for a short walk but we will be here for some days trying to get the replacement part for the boat so we will have time to explore.
There are more than 10 boats in the anchorage but tomorrow they are planning to leave as the wind in the next days will be light.

Another great day in paradise.
08/04/2010, Sha’Ab Simbel, Sudan

Today we started very early, we put the anchor up before 4:00 and we sailed 40 miles until close to the next anchorage. Just before arriving, Magnum towed us through the reefs to a nice spot close to a beach. On the way there we got a big Yellow fin tuna, toooo big for us. It was the heaviest fish we got so far and Werner did a good workout to get it close to the boat. We let it go and less than half an hour we got a nice Wahoo.

Soon after arriving we got the dinghy ready and we took the kids to the beach. We went snorkelling thinking it wouldn't be very good but it turned out to be excellent. The coral is beautiful with lots clam shells with different colours. The fish were also nice but not as abundant as other places we have been in the Red Sea. We had a delicious dinner with different fish, Magnum also caught some and they made a nice curry and salad. Nina made a blueberry pie that was delicious. Nina and Lucas enjoy baking and helping to cook, imagine when we would be able to choose any recipe and get the ingredients to cook anything we want!

Slowly going north!
07/04/2010, Sudan

We arrived at Khor Nawarat (18°14.67'N:038°20.24'E) on the 05 of April. We spent the day resting (school holidays!). An overnight being towed is not easy. It's better to sail at night with fishing boats around than to be looking at the back of the other boat without leaving the wheel. We rested, went snorkelling and the kids enjoyed playing at the beach. We found hundreds of shells at the beach and they are in big piles. When we went snorkeling we tried to get a crayfish but it was lucky than us. The size of it could feed 4 adults! Very different than Indonesia where its hard to see one and the people try to sell to you little ones. We had been able to call (satellite phone) the ex-owner of the boat to ask if he knew the brand of the part that needs replacement. We are very happy that he had a look for us and on the following day he gave us the information we needed (thank you, Rainer!).

We have been trying to go to Suakin with the help of Magnum. Today (07 April) we tried to sail going 50 miles north but the wind on the nose didn't helped and we would arrive at night. In the Red Sea there is a higher chance you get 20-30 knots winds against you (North or Northwest). Not the best conditions for a boat without engine. Magnum tried to tow us but we were not making progress. We finished going back and to anchor in a bay that it's a bit rolly but protected enough. Tomorrow will leave at 03:00 AM to be able to reach the next anchorage in daylight.

It's Easter - Lucas Dairy
04/04/2010, Eritrea

We thought we would celebrate Easter another day because the day before was pipeing hot and we didn't want to do any cooking at all. It was also because there were landmines on shore and we couldn't have a picnic. Mum decided to do it on the right day and she woke me up and we started to wrap up some chocolates for Easter. It turned to be Easter cubes. We painted the outside of the wrapping with pens. We made pancakes and invited our friends from Magnum to have breakfast with us. We played around and painted some eggs shells. Kara's looks like the best one. We made lucky dip for Easter with all the Easter cubes and jellies. We were going to leave soon, so we jumped in the water while Uwe and Anne when back to Magnum. Kara stayed with us for most of the day. We made 'negrinhos' (sweets with condensed milk) and Dad prepared lunch. After lunch we played with Lego until four o'clock and then it was time for Kara to go back to her boat. Nina, Mum and I jumped in the water while the boat was still moving and we were dragged by the boat. We had a shower and we had dinner. The wind died and Magnum came to the rescue (I mean they towed us since our engine is not working). I slept outside until midnight and went inside after. A little bird stopped at our boat and stayed all the night, it only flew away in the morning when I went out.

To learn from Lucas Last night the wind increased and we were putting up the mail sail when the little bird started to slide in the top of the solar panel. I asked Lucas to put a towel for it to hold on. Lucas looked at me and said. "Mum, it's a Storm Petrel, they travel miles and miles on the stop on top of very rolly logs. The bird will be alright." He went back to bed. Soon we finished getting the sails ready, I looked for the bird and he was back on a safe position.

Lucky and unlucky day!!!
03/04/2010, Eritrea

The day we went to Sheikh El Abu (16°02.26'N:039°26.95E) we got a marlin!!! It was amazing looking at it jumping. We were able to get it close to the platform and Werner took the hook out and let it go. It was not too big but it was a beautiful fish. Not long after the marlin, we got a Wahoo for dinner. It's nice to go fishing in the Red Sea! Magnum was already in the anchorage when we arrived and we soon dropped the anchor keen to go for a swim. We started to reverse and the boat started to vibrate! The reverse was not working and the forward was working only for a short period of time. The first thing Werner did was to jump in the water to check the propeller, but there was nothing stuck there. The engine was running fine when it was in neutral, so possible no problem with the engine. Gear box could be a problem and something in the shaft. The next day Werner took everything from the stern cabin and got to the back of the gear box. After some time he found out that the flexible coupling was broken, so to make the story short, we have no engine for the last 2 days (so far)!! We are lucky to be sailing with our friends from Magnum; they have been towing us when the wind disappears. We are going to Suakin to try to get the new part shipped. Just to add to the problem, Sudan has been embargoed by some countries and we won't be able to get parts from USA and UK for example. We will let you know how the saga of the engine develops. We arrived at night at Defnein (16°36.48'N:039°19.26'E) being towed to the anchorage after the wind died in the afternoon.


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Kleiner Bar
Who: Werner Hennig, Lucia Chagas, Nina Hennig and Lucas Hennig
Port: Auckland, New Zealand
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