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s/v Skylark
It's Always An Adventure
Moses Jr.
04/24/2012, Ital Rastaurant, Dominica

Moses Jr. was a lovely man, much like his father. He clearly is taking up the role his father has given him as the eldest. He served our soup, took care of our needs and welcomed us when we first arrived. It was only later that we realized he was wearing a Charlotte Hornet's Team shirt. We're from Charlotte and the Hornets were our basketball team before they left for New Orleans. Moses says he only just discovered where Charlotte was about a week or two ago.

Moses James
04/24/2012, Moses's Rastarant, Dominica

This is the man. He is known around the surrounding area as the only midwife and healer there is. I'm not sure what they call a man who acts as midwife, maybe it's the same term, but he learned the skill from his mother, who learned it from her mother. He says that no woman in his family took it up after his mother became too old (she lived well into her 90's) so he took on the role. He is called upon by the local women to assist in the delivery of their babies, often with no medical backup or other support. He uses Castor Oil to rub on their stomachs and soothe their pain. He has now taught his oldest son, Moses, Jr. to take on the role. Moses's Jr. married a Canadian woman a number of years ago and when she became pregnant for the first time, she asked Moses Sr. to be at her side, without any medical support at all. As Moses Sr. told me this story, saying, "She said she trusted me, and wanted me at her baby's birth" he teared up. He went on to tell me that he taught his son with that delivery what to do and his son did everything himself. I asked if Moses Jr. was scared or nervous and again, Moses Sr. teared up and told me he kept encouraging his son, telling him he was there at his side but had complete confidence in him to do it alone. Moses's Jr. and his wife now have 4 children, all of them birthed at home by Moses Jr. Moses is a well-known herbalist, and healer as well.

Moses's Rastaurant
04/24/2012, Victoria's Falls, Dominica

After moving to a different anchorage and thus decreasing the amount of rolling we were doing, we went ahead and hired Bobby Brown to take us (along with Tyson and Judith) up to Moses's Ital Rastaurant. It was close to a 2 hour drive, with some stops along the way. He and Tyson decided where to stop and it truly was a wonderful day.

Up at Moses's place, he and his family are Rastafari as I mentioned in a previous post. They live by the creek at the head of the Victoria Falls trail, growing all their own food and serving lunch to guests who call in advance. They don't use salt in their cooking, nor meat of any kind. Everything we ate was home grown and vegetarian. I found Moses and his son, Moses Jr. to be deeply engaging, warm and genuine. When I first introduced myself to Moses, extending my hand to shake his, he kissed both my cheeks instead and said he learned that from the French and preferred it to handshakes. I suggested he might want to kiss my hand after kissing both cheeks and he laughed, delighted to kiss away. I believe I just liked being kissed by him...what more can I say? His skin was soft, he was full of sweet, gentle energy and I felt immediately connected. When Judith came up behind me to introduce herself, he kissed her cheeks and then her hands, giving me a little wink as he did.

Atlantic meets the Caribbean Ocean
04/24/2012, Scott's Head

The Atlantic Ocean is on the left, the Caribbean ocean on the right. If you follow the left side around to even further left, you would see Martinique in the distance.

Boat in Soufriere
04/24/2012, Soufriere, Dominica

Fishing boats line the coastline, in the water and on the shore. I love the handmade ladders on the ground but I never did ask what purpose they serve.

We learned today that there are only 4 pelicans in all of Dominica. One appeared several years ago, then another and now four in all. I have a photo of one of them on a boat, but it's hard to make out the bird from the distance.

04/25/2012 | Ed
The ladders on the ground are used to pull the boats up from the sea.
Oldest Church in Dominica
04/24/2012, Soufriere, Dominica

Our tour guide Bobby Brown (remember him?) told us this is the oldest church in Dominica. It is rumored that a nun from the church once had an affair with a local fisherman, which resulted in her being shipped back to Italy by the Bishop.

04/25/2012 | Ed
I was told the church was built in 1826.
Titou Gorge
04/23/2012, Dominica

The last place we visited was Titou Gorge. Chris Doyle (author of our trusted guidebook) describes it best as a "deep slot-canyon that winds back a couple of hundred yards into the mountain. The sheer walls are narrow and wind round into various interesting chambers. The bottom is a river, so you have to swim. The light coming from the forest above is dramatic as it lights up the sheer walls. At the head is a thundering waterfall." It was an incredible place, as was everything we saw all day long. We were lucky to avoid most of the cruise ship tourists and are hoping the winds die down a little from this point forward. We still have one more place I want to visit--It's Moses and his family at their "Rastaurant". They are Rastafarians and grow all their own food, offering lunch from their gardens out of a calabash bowl and served with a cocunot spoon. But if the wind and swells persist, I'm not sure we'll make it there.

04/24/2012 | Lawrence Leonard
I just watched a short video of Titou Gorge. It looks spectacular even on a home video. It must have been mind-boggling dramatic being there. I hope the seas will calm for you soon.
Fiar winds & Smooth sailing,
Lawrence S/V Elle & I
Town Life
04/23/2012, Roseau, Dominica

Roseau as we sail by toward our anchorage.

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