The winds in the Caribbean are currently blowing from the NE and have been stronger than we expected averaging a good 15 to 20 knots and gusting 25 knots (that's hold onto your hat and forget the brolly!). It seems to be a familiar scenario that wherever we want to go means the wind is on the nose and there is usually a long discussion about whether we can sail directly, sail by tacking or if we should motor? Of course it doesn't help that the winds have whipped the sea up and we will be sailing into a heavy swell. We lifted the anchor in Bequia to sail the 10 miles to St Vincent but reluctantly resorted to using the engine. Even with the engine our speed was slow, battling wind and current and it took over 3 hours before arriving at Young Island, on the south tip of St Vincent.
We were helped onto a mooring buoy by Sparrow and now sat next to the private island and hotel resort on Young Island but in equal distance to the small jetty on the mainland.

St Vincent is frequently by passed by many yachties as it has a bad reputation for aggressive boat boys and thefts. We were advised by locals on Bequia that this was mainly further north on the leeward side, particularly Walliabou Bay (where the pirates of the Caribbean was filmed). Bill was particularly keen to visit the island as he wanted to hike the active volcano, La Soufrière. For the record, I was not so keen as I knew it would be a challenging hike!

We made tour enquiries but felt $70US each was a bit expensive. Tourist Information office told us that we must go with a guide but couldn't really say why. What was the danger? Was it not a well defined track? Were we in danger from attack? Would we be walking into a marijuana plantation? No was the answer, it would just be safer with a guide. We did contact a guide and left several phone messages but they never got back to us. Time ticking on and getting frustrated we decided to hire a car and just get on with it ourselves. I had done some research on the internet and many reviews suggested a guide wasn't necessary.

Next day we got up early, packed lunch ready and drove along the windward side of the island heading for Rabacca where the La Soufrière trail begins. The road deteriorated the further we went and we noticed the communities were less prosperous the further away from the capital of Kingstown. The drive was beautiful and dramatic with the Atlantic Ocean pounding the coastline. After 40 minutes driving we spotted our turning which took us along a very rugged road through a banana plantation. After a couple of miles we came to the car park of the La Soufriere information centre. We were the only hikers there (it was still only 9am).

This was the beginning of a steep and steady 2 hour hike up to the craters edge. We walked through a bamboo grove on a narrow path with a sheer drop either side and then into the lush green but humid rainforest. If you stop and listen you can hear the tree frogs as well as the many birds but catching sight is almost impossible. About a third way up we crossed two lava flows where the rocks were smooth from the flowing river. Just over half way we had climbed high enough to be in cloud and the forest changed into a head height thicket allowing clear views of the mountains and the sea when the mist lifted. It was also very windy and we got soaked when a rain squall passed overhead. After two hours we finally reached the ash-strewn rim of the crater and tentatively peaked over the steep edge to view the bottom whilst all the time being buffeted by the strong ocean winds.
The floor is covered in lush green vegetation , there is a huge dome where fumaroles release volcanic vapour and a small lake. You can walk the edge of the crater and for the more energetic climb down to the floor with the aid of a rope. It was well worth the climb. La Soufrière last erupted in 1979 but its most violent was in 1902 killing 1,680 people mostly indigenous Caribs.
Feeling pleased with ourselves we took it carefully back down the loose path and stopped to enjoy our picnic and a well earned rest by the rainforest river. We only met one other hiker the whole day.

As we had the car for another two days we visited the Vermont Nature trail in search of the very rare St Vincent Parrot. We could hear them but it was very difficult to even catch a glimpse. There are only about a thousand in the wild and their biggest threat is still from poachers as a pair can fetch more than $50,000US. There is also the fear that a future hurricane would decimate the parrot population. We visited the botanical gardens in Kingstown to see the parrots close up. Here many parrots are kept in captivity as a part of a successful breeding programme. We talked to their keeper who was very passionate about his beautiful birds. The colours of the national flag are taken from the green, blue and yellow of the parrots but their tail feathers also have a wonderful orange colour.
The parrot keeper kindly knocked some coconuts out of a tree and with his large machete took the tops off and then offered us both a coconut to drink the milk from within.

We also ventured into the Mesopotamia valley, the agricultural heartland of St Vincent. The farming is very labour intensive due to the steep hills but every inch of the land is used. The volcanic soil is very fertile and the whole valley is actually a dormant crater. The roads (if you can call them that) are only accessible with a 4WD.
Whilst in the valley we visited the Montreal Gardens. The British owner greeted us with secateurs in hand and as we chatted he explained how he had created these amazing gardens from what used to be a an old grapefruit plantation.

Our final stop was to the Black Tunnel Caves. It was not really a cave but 360ft tunnel drilled through thick rock using slave labour in 1815 by the owner of the Grand Sable Estate to enable quicker transport from the estate factory to the wharf where ships were waiting for their cargo. The tunnel was also home to a colony of bats.

While paying our $5 entry fee, Bill asked the lady if there was anywhere we could get a cup of tea? "No sorry, we only sell beer". Bill's sad face must have put pity on her as she very kindly offered to have a cup of tea (free of charge) waiting for us on our return from the caves. Her name was Michelle, she was so lovely and her fresh ginger tea was really refreshing. Michelle's kindness was what really made our day.