IMAGE : Tobacco reef & South Water Caye - typical Belize

TURNEFFE ISLANDS.
We set off west from Lighthouse Reef - lovely, gliding sailing with the keel up and just the genoa. By 4pm we were tucked in behind ELBOW REEF amongst the TURNEFFE ISLANDS.

The Turneffe group is the largest of Belize 3 offshore atolls. It stretches over 30 miles north to south, and up to 10 miles east an east, covering a total area of over 200 sq. miles. The islands consist of hundreds of mangrove cayes rimming both the east and west sides of the shallow reef-fringed bank.

We anchored on the western rim near Big Bokel Caye - there were 2 lighthouse structures - but neither were lit at night- interesting!!

Bokel is Dutch for elbow or corner - it is believed that the southern cayes are named by a Dutch buccaneer in the 17th century. The inner lagoons are a labyrinth of mangroves, creeks and saltwater crocodiles!

More splendid isolation - just a few fishing houses ashore.

Tonight was the 1st time ever that we left our main cockpit light on all night to illuminate the boat - Mainly for safety rather than security concern as we had seen some local fishing boats around and we were in an area where they would not necessarily see any yachts and on this dark night could easily not see us as they were whizzing around.

INNER REEF CAYS
Tuesday 2 May - beautiful sailing day today gliding with just the genoa. We moved from the outer reef to the inner reef carefully following the charted route.

On a light wind day we came through the cut in the reef between ENGLISH CAY and GOFFS CAYE via the main shipping channel. Both English and Goffs Cayes are tiny jewels on reef patches - was passed well off due to the reef, but they both looked idyllic with swaying coconut palms and white sandy beaches.

Goffs looked like a popular 'day play' area for the cruise ship passengers. Through the binoculars I could see a few houses on English Caye, but no sign of anyone wandering about.

We could see 1 cruise ship just a little further north off Belize City.
At SPANISH CAYE we made our turn to head south with now the mainland on our right and the various cayes and shallows on our left.

No other boat traffic around - and the wind was very helpful as it also shifted from south in the morning to norther in the afternoon to allow us to sail the whole day. The key decision of where to head for the night came by mid- afternoon - anchor off the mainland town of Dangriga, or in the shelter of GARBUTT CAYE, as wind pattern had been that it picked up at night we chose to head east to Garbutt Caye.

As we were motoring in we spotted a large motor boat right in our chosen anchoring spot!! Within ½ hour of our getting settled the occupiers of 'River Bend' the Belize registered motor yacht returned in small bone fishing boats- each with a guide - they were obviously locals or visitors on a specific bone fishing charter. They didn't acknowledge us. Bone Fishing is very popular throughout Belize, and lucrative for the local guides.

We had made the right decision as the wind picked up again throughout the night from the north east and we had good protection- if we had chosen to the mainland we would have been on a lee shore.

-------------------------------------------------------------

TOBACCO CAYE AND TOBACCO RANGE
4th May
Tobacco Caye is an idyllic palm tree and beach island at the southern end of Columbus Reef.

What a beautiful spot to spend the late afternoon and evening - all alone. It felt like we were anchored right on the reef - with a light tradewind breeze and no waves.

During the late afternoon we watched people canoeing along the outer Tobacco Reef and also walking in the shallow waters at the surf reef edge - that will be us tomorrow. There looked to be some permanent housing and holiday cabins ashore.


Friday 5 May - Throughout the night and morning the squalls came through as the stronger wind kicked in from the north east. The thunder and lightning was far off on the mainland - but was a little unsettling.

We were protected from the swell by the offlaying reef, but in the gusty wind was not really enjoyable.

We listening to the 7am SSB forecast and waited most of the morning for the wind to come back around to the south - but it never did.

We wanted to explore the nearby reef and take a closer look at Tobacco Reef Caye, so took a ride around in the dingy.

Tobacco Reef Caye is a 5 acre island that sits right on the barrier reef of the same name. It is a beautiful island, with many palm trees and beaches. There looked to be a few different little resort like set-ups on the island, each with water's edge wooden cottage housing on stilts, with swimming hammocks on the verandas.

We did not go ashore, but it was evident the this tiny Tobacco Caye has cashed in on its natural beauty, with the day boats bringing tourists from Dangriga here to stay awhile and find there little slice of Belize paradise.

We had a walk out along the shallows of the reef.
Whilst we were our exploring a large Catamaran came into the anchorage - they didn't acknowledge us. As the winds had not settled, and there was no more to see or do around this Caye due to the weather, we moved on, just 1 mile west for more shelter to anchor amongst the mangroves of TOBACCO RANGE.


Saturday 6 - More thunderstorms and rain overnight - so pleased to have found the place to tuckup and feel safe and protected. Much cooler temperature today and less humid.

Midmorning we took off to explore in the dingy around the mangroves - not much here at all - just a few Rasta shacks. There looks to be some building going on just across from. The 1 'sunset' drinks dock and little wooden water-fronted lodge looked well established - but no one was about.

Throughout the afternoon a few local fishing boats came and went - they looked to be on bait fish expeditions. No one came by us, just acknowledged with a wave - just how we like it.

Sunday 7 - after our 'Sunday cooked breakfast' we just hung-out, reading watching movies and writing up the diary/blog. An overcast, and rainy day - but the humidity had gone a little. A chartered catamaran with 6 Canadians arrived in our area about 4pm, and by nightfall there were a few other yachts tucked-up in the safe haven of Tobacco range.
-------------------------------------------------------------
SOUTH WATER CAYE
Monday 8 May - We woke to a beautiful clear day. It was just a short 2 mile motor over to the beautiful South Water Caye, to anchor with just 1 other yacht on the protected western side.

South Water Caye sits right on the reef on its north side. A beautiful island, with tall coconut woodland.

Ashore we could see 1 or 2 small resorts and the IZE (International Zoological Expeditions) base. IZE is a marine biology education centre - what a great place to come for an 'educational' activity!

The tiny jewel of CARRIE BOW CAYE - all palms and sand, stands between South Water Caye and 250yard break in the outer reef. Carrie Bow has been donated by a local Dangriga family to the Smithsonian for research of the coral reef system and IZE visitors to conduct surveys of the Belize barrier reef and offshore atolls.

We enjoyed a dingy drive around Carrie Bow and enjoyed a good snorkelling stop. James found some good size lobster- but did not have is gaff hook to catch them. For our afternoon drinks we headed shore to the little beach on the south shore. During the afternoon a few charter catamarans arrived to fill the anchorage. A truly lovely spot