IMAGE: WATERPOOLS IN DOMINICA

We were ‘met’ on our arrival into Prince Rupert Bay by the welcoming committee - Boat Boys – the first one approached as were still over 1 mile out. These Boat Boys are men in small hard ribs who offer their services – to be your guide, arrange fuel, moorings, water, fresh fruit... anything and everything you could possible need – all really lovely but they are can be very insistent indeed. I was polite but assertive that we didn’t need anything. We had come across some rude and troublesome boat boys previously in the Windward Islands and this time had our strategy ready so they would leave us alone. I had asked my friend Monica from Miss Molly for the name of the man they had used when they came here – and asked specifically for him (Alexis) to each one who approached us. By the time we had anchored and were settled Alexis arrived to offer his tours etc, etc. We informed him that we had friends joining us in their boat and when they came in a few days time we would all do his tours etc together. The strategy worked – none of the others bothered us, and when Alexis came by a few days later, we said our friends had been delayed with engine problems and we would be moving on without them. Its sad to have to employ this stand-off attitude but we just cant stand the constant hassle, and visits from strangers coming up to the boat. These guys have great names for themselves and on their little boats – ie Lawrence of Arabia; SeaBird; Cobra. Here in Dominica we found all the Boat Boys courteous and helpful. Apparently prior to 2009 there was a rogue element to some of the fishermen culminating in a robbery, and some of the older and wiser men got together and organised themselves into the Portsmouth Association to provided security via nightly patrols of the anchorage to ensure that all the yachties were safe. This is such a great idea and service – just a pity many of the other islands further south-ie Grenadines cannot get their act together to keep yachtsmen feeling safe and secure in their waters. The word has got around and this island now has a very good reputation as a safe island to visit - plus the simple and inexpensive check-in/out customs and immigration procedures are now the best for yachts in the Caribbean. We had a pleasant afternoon and evening becoming familiar with our surroundings in this large bay fringed with coconut palms, grey sand and some basic beachfront restaurants. The anchorage was very busy and full – the night was very windy and very rolly – and not very relaxing at all -just like being at sea.
We needed to go to the authorities in Portsmouth – so about 10am set out to cross the bay in the dingy – thankfully we have a good dingy and engine for journeys such as this. The authorities were very friendly, and as we were not going to any other ports we were able to do our check-in and out at the same time – and the total fee was 10EC (approx £2.50). We came back in the dingy to the main fishing dock and had a wander of the town. Portsmouth is the second largest town and old capital – very similar in atmosphere to the other southern Windward islands we have previously visited. Portsmouth is the second largest town and old capital – really just a large village enlivened by passing yachts. The main street had plenty of activity near the produce market, small shops and minimarkets. All the fruit and veg ladies were sheltering from the sun under big beach umbrellas and selling their homegrown backyard produce – everything looked good, but we didn’t need anything for now. The ladies grilling the plantains was very chatty and also the older mama selling her baked goods wanted to tell me all about her 5 sons and where they lived around the Caribbean and America.
We then decided to take the local maxi-taxi to Roseau, the islands small capital -south about 45 miles. The inexpensive bus system to transport the locals around – which they also welcome us to use at the same price as the locals – no ‘tourist ’surcharge. These minivans are private enterprise and each drivers sets his own schedule – normally filling his van to full to overflowing to start the journey and stopping anywhere you wish and dropping on and off to keep the van full. Our driver was a typical ‘go fast man’. The drive following the coast was a great way to have a look at some of the little coastal fishing villages, and a bit of the hinterland. The capital Roseau was busy and we spent some time wandering through the streets. – it had a very colonial feel with a wonderful shingled and stone houses and two story buildings - assortment of authentic and very lovely Caribbean buildings – many of the older original buildings feature balconies and overhands and intricate gingerbread trim. Some of the buildings have been restored to their former glory, others painted in lively Caribbean colours. A few of the older, simple wooden buildings were beautiful, just because of their weathered and aged appearance. The waterfront has had a face-lift – probably due to the cruise ships now coming in here, with a wide street and long walkway with the very fine Fort Young Hotel with original 18th century cannons, taking pride of place looking out to the sea. The Old Market is a cobblestone plaza and small covered arcade – an interesting plague gave a 300 year history. The public market near the transport hub housed many food shacks and produce stalls and spices. The craft market was full of baskets, bowls and bags made by the indigenous Caribs hand weaving roots, pine leaves and grasses. I purchased a small engraved calabash souvenir – my memento from so many of these Caribbean islands. We found a waterfront cafe for a short stop for a cold drink and email/internet catch-up, before having a fried chicken lunch and then the maxi-taxi back to Portsmouth – a lovely day out. It was still very, very rolly and windy back on the boat, enough that we could not sit in the cockpit for afternoon drinks or dinner.
On Wednesday morning over breakfast we were able to listen to the World Service and BBC news on the local FM radio station – a reminder that these islands were, and still are British somewhere in their core. Todays goal was to hike to the Indian River. The Dominica Forestry Department has laid our many hiking trails, so we confidently set off with our brief DIY instructions I found in one of the Caribbean Compass monthly newspapers. All went well and it was an easy few hours hike. Once we got off the road just out of the town the trail was marked ‘Hansel & Gretel’ style with blue and yellow material tied to the trees – all very helpful. The Indian River slowly meanders through tall swamp bloodwood trees, whos buttressed trunks rise out of the shallows, their roots stretching out laterally along the riverbanks, rising out of the shallows, a fascinating setting. The numerous bloodwood trees line the narrow, shady river bank gave the area a very prehistoric feel. The lush ferns, elephant palms and rustling giant bamboo gave our walk a very enjoyable outlook and atmosphere. After taking our walking shoes off and wading across a small ford in the River – a little further along we came across the Bush Bar – a real tourist trap. This is apparently where all the arranged tours stop off for an infamous ‘Dynamite Rum’ or fruit juice before returning down the river. We wandered a bit further – this time following and water pipe through the rainforest, we came out into the backstreets of the town where met up with the ‘official’ guides offering to row us up the river.
The local fisherman had caught some nice size tuna – but we had decided that it was going to be locally made chicken Roti for dinner. We made our dinner purchase at the main street Roti shop, lovely fresh bread from the backstreet bakery and some small bananas from one of the local stalls before heading back to boat for the rest of the day. The anchorage was still very rolly making the dingy docks for the beachfront bars and restaurants untenable.
Our hike on Thursday was to the Hot Springs. We left the dingy under the watchful eye of the security officer at the customs dock and set off – our info was perfect and we were at the Hot Pool within a ½ hour walk. The small pool water was hot – about 90deg and in a really beautiful setting – to make it perfect all I would have needed was a hammock in the trees to cool down in, and be able to dip in and out. It was wonderful to have this special place all to ourselves. In the afternoon we decided to take on the task of taking on water to fill our tanks and give the boat a good soap wash. The water pressure was just a dribble – so 2 hours later both tanks were full. The boatman ‘SeaBird’ was responsible for the water and he arrived to fix the problem, only after we had finally finished filling, and then watched and waited whilst I gave the boat her soap wash – a 50EC charge – about £20, but the time it took totally took out any chance to do an afternoon hike.
Our final DIY trip on Friday was to Chaudiere Pool and waterfall. Dominicia with its craggy jungle-covered hills full of waterfalls that feed lakes both cool a hot demands exploration on foot. This hike was our chance to see the northern neck of the island from Portsmouth to the north-east coast, a stunning drive through the mountainous jungle. The instructions were to catch a local maxi-taxi to the small village of Bense and then it was a 45 minute walk to the Pools. Well, the 45 minute walk was all that and more through some very steep rough stone and concrete roads alongside steamy, lush forests and huge gum trees. The signage was not great and we never really made it to the right location. There were 2 ‘local guides’ along the way who wanted payment to take us to the pools (we suspect they had taken down the final signage) – but we were happy to wander –‘you cant get lost if you don’t know where you are going’ were our thoughts. Finally we came across a flooded bridge with some rock pools, no waterfall – so this would do us. The water was very cold and very refreshing – the power of the water flow gave us a good massage. Again it was a lovely setting – and great to have it all to ourselves. We set off for our long and tough walk back, passing a Dutch couple from a yacht who were also heading for the pools – we wished them luck and kept heading back. Thankfully we got a lift some of the way back in a truck with some locals to the village of Bense - only to wait there 1 1/2 hours for a maxi-taxi to take us back to Portsmouth – a bit or a waste of time, but we could watch the locals and their comings and goings from the local store, where we sat in the shade and waited, and waited. The day was a bit cloudy and overcast and we did get caught in a small rainstorm whilst we were high up in the hills. Finally when we were back in Portsmouth, we saw that there was a cricket match going on, with lots of local interest. Sadly our visit to Dominica came to an end on Saturday, we are now heading back north to Guadeloupe. We have enjoyed this Nature Isle very much, truly the regions most unspoilt country, a destination all about natural beauty. Load of valleys, gorges and pinnacles – amazingly lush vegetations – greenery erupts everywhere. Tourism is low-key, the island has no international airport – so off the tour operators radar – more an independent travellers island. No miles and miles of white sandy beaches here – but a stunning off the beaten track interior. Dominica has 7 potentially active volcanoes (most other Caribbean island only have one) – this help explain the dramatic scenery. Dominica has the highest mountains in the eastern Caribbean at 4747ft - the mountain acts as a magnet for rain – the many waterfalls have been enhanced to give 40% of the islands hydro –generated electricity. The islanders have to rely on their own resources, and obviously have a standard of living well below those of its richer French neighbours. Rasta culture is strong. All the locals we came across and spoke with were friendly and happy with their lot.