Image ANZAC Day at the races

23rd April - We tacked at the change of watch at 5am to head back to Providence – 30 miles back now if the wind will let us stay on the one tack back. Really frustrating – is this enjoyment or endurance!!
AM MAG NET 13.41N 81.48W ENE 15-16K.
Looking at the charts it shows miles of shallows, several markers that don’t appear to go anywhere and it is very confusing – so we must get in before dark. At the sea buoy we turned down a wide entry channel, well marked with 3 red markers on starboard and 2 green markers on port. The chart shows this channel going over a reef, it swallowed down to around 4 metres at one point. Just before the last green marker we turned left, slowly nudged our way in, but did slowly bump some coral.
The main bay was very large, and we anchored behind the pack of yachts at about 5pm. It was good to be back in waters that are marked – far different from Panama. We had a few Rums to help contemplate the journey, a basic dinner – took in the surroundings and had a quiet and early night

24th April - It was exciting to see Providencia in daylight, which is surprisingly hilly. The harbour was very quiet. There were about 18 other yachts at anchor, a large ship on the town dock and various pirogues dotted along the shore line. Ashore we could see no large hotels or any buildings higher than two stories and it looks very laid back – I suppose the whole of the Eastern Caribbean used to look like this many years ago.
Our info says that Providencia is a cluster of small islands with the main island sparsely populated with only about 5,000 local citizens of Jamaican background. Most of the tourist visitors to the island fly in directly from the Columbian mainland. Spanish is the primary language; however they mostly speak a version of patois - English /Spanish.
The English colonised Providencia (and San Andreas, its larger sister island) around 1630 and brought in black slaves from Jamaica to cultivate tobacco and cotton. Because of their strategic location, the islands provided convenient shelter for pirates waiting to sack Spanish galleons bound for home laden with gold and riches. In 1670, the legendary pirate Henry Morgan established his base on Providencia and from here he raided both Panama and Santa Marta. It is said that his treasures are still hidden on the island.
Shortly after Colombia achieved independence in 1810, it laid claim to the islands, although Nicaragua (only 150 miles away) fiercely disputed its right to do so. The issue was eventually settled by a treaty in 1928, which confirmed Colombia’s sovereignty over the islands. Nicaragua continues to press the issue of its sovereignty at the International Court of Justice in the Hague. The court reaffirmed Colombia’s sovereignty over the main islands in 2007, but has recently given some of the off lying atolls to Nicaragua. Tensions remain high and there is a military presence on the island and a naval frigate patrolling the surrounding seas.
In the early 1990s, the local government introduced restrictions on migration to the islands in order to slow the rampant influx of people and preserve the local culture and identity. The majority of the 5000 people live close to the main town, with all the Island’s supplies coming in by boat or plane from the sister island of San Andres, 72km to the south.
Phil & Monica on Miss Molly was in the anchorage – we last met up with them when we were in Linton Marina. We made VHF contact and went to visit them to get all the local info – a good morning chatting through everything. The dingy dock was to the left of the big commercial dock and everyone ties (stern anchor so that your dinghy doesn't get swept under the dock) at long dock that runs across the front of the town square. We needed to get all the usual jobs done, - local Colombian currency, rubbish run, internet, food and bread shopping. As we were only stopping for the weekend we decided to stay ‘under the radar’ and not officially check-in or out.
Town was right by the dingy dock. There were a few lovely old timber colonial buildings. The few small supermarkets had reasonable provisions, but poor fresh produce - most appeared dead. The town appeared not to have much life – until we realised most things were closed due it being lunchtime. Thankfully the Bakery on road up hill had very good wholemeal bread. There were a couple of small hardware stores also up here, and a small hospital. Minimal, but all that the residents needed – all in one central area.
We managed to achieve all our requirements – but only just. The food shopping was very basic & more expensive than most Caribbean islands. Wi-Fi internet appeared impossible – we finally went into the one and only local Hotel and the lady allowed us to sit in the reception area for 1 hour to get our emails and a weather forecast grib. The young guy at the Tourist Info office, located on the seafront in the most beautiful old colonial wooden building which had been fully restored. The 2 story white building, with blue trim shutter and lovely fretwork had a wonderful view out over the bay. The staff were very helpful with all the local info and a map. They told us that tomorrow afternoon there would be a horse racing event at one of the beaches in the south. They also offered for us to come to the office to use their Wi-Fi internet – a real bonus.
All the locals we spoke with were very friendly and helpful, and EVERYONE had a motorbike or shooter – no helmets and all the bikes had several passengers and riders!!

On the 6.30pm evening Mag Net we had a clear signal to chat with Roger & Sasha – they are 800 miles out from the Galapagos – it is great to talk with them and follow their progress across the pacific.

25th April – ANZAC DAY. With no other Ozzie or Kiwi yachts here to share our remembrance with – instead we had a day out at the horse races.
James got a few boat jobs done today before we went out for the day. One of the American yachts had spread the word around that the local monthly horse racing was to be held at South Beach today – so 16 of us from most of the boats in the anchorage set off to see what it was all about.
South Beach was very picturesque aqua blue, calm protected water and a long, wide white said beach - with a few basic restaurants on the beach – a lovely atmosphere. It reminded us or what the BVI was like when we first visited 20 years ago. After a wander of the beach, and a bit of a chat with some of the other sailors we decided on our spot at a beach joint for lunch under the shade of the palm trees. We ordered the conch speciality dish to share and 2 Colombian beers. Our meal came just as all the excitement of the horse race started.

The beach was crowded with locals as the 2 horses thundered past. ‘Ashanty’ won the ½ mile beach race battle –apparently a bit of a local grudge match. We enjoyed our lunch - the conch was pleasantly presented and well prepared. Again the 2nd two horse race was just as exciting. There was a young English couple on the next table to us and it was interesting to chat with them about their world tour.

After a great day out – very fitting for an ANZAC day experience – all the sailors loaded into 1 the pickup truck taxi and headed back to our boats by 4.30pm.

We enjoyed a sunset walk over to the little northern island via the floating pedestrian-only footbridge – called “Lover Lane” bridge that joins Providencia and Santa Catalina islands. Firstly we turned left along the boardwalk, past the mangrove swamp and some very basic housing – but the area was clean and tidy. Up the steps to the lookout with a large white Madonna statue and a few old cannons facing out to sea -the view down to the anchorage was a great photo spot of all the yachts in the anchorage.

26th April – After James cooked breakfast, he got on with some of the boat jobs, and I kept writing up my Galapagos blog. Soon it was snorkelling time when he was done and hot and sweaty. We took the dingy out to Morgans Head and had a look around. Plenty of corals – but very few tropical fish – and the water clarity was so, so. The Albuquerque Cays is still 10 out of 10 for this area.

We had some chicken wings that needed to be BBQd so James cooked those before we went over to Miss Molly for afternoon drinks. Just before drinks we called in at Calagorm – David & Hella gave us some very helpful info on the Cayman Islands. Another good day in Providencia.

27th April - 4 boats including Miss Molly left at 6am to head north and onwards to the Bay islands off the Honduras coast. One other yacht was preparing to leave – they were doing the same journey as us. After listening to the Mag Net and Chris Parkers weather we went into town – internet, then bread and food shopping now a priority. We achieved both and spent all our remaining Colombia cash. We packed up the boat and headed out from the anchorage by about 1pm.
It was a good short stay. Being in the island for the monthly horse racing was a real bonus, and being able to spend some more time with Monica and Phil too. There were a good crowd of interesting cruisers – as Providencia is a bit of a crossroads with everyone heading in different directions. We did not contact the Bush Agency or pay his outrageous fees for his check-in and out services – that $150 will be better spent on a marina in Cuba.

All up Providencia was a great stopover, a very clean, well-kept island with the islanders seemingly proud of their home- after some parts of Panama is was very refreshing change.