Following the route of the invading Japanese, we headed for Singapore. The Sultan's Palace which still dominates Johor Bahru was the headquarters for the Japanese army when they prepared for the attack on Singapore. Our approach was less dramatic. We caught the bus. It costs 1.50 ringits, about 30p. Buses and taxis are very cheap in Malaysia and Singapore. The return bus ride from Singapore was slightly more, about 80p. Quite a bargain as it is about an hour's ride and involves going through the super modern Malaysian border post and the more dingy Singapore border.

We were surprised that so much of Singapore is green. A large part of the area to the North is parkland, reserve and military areas meaning that you do not get the same oppressive claustrophobia of cities like Hong Kong. Taking taxis became our method of getting around. Cheap and they speak English, or Singlish as it is called here. Taxi drivers point out places of interest and gave us their take on the local politics. Apparently the opposition is doing well - it's time for a change. Singapore has had the same party in power since independence. What do the opposition stand for? No one really knows but the city needs a change.

Our hotel overlooked the harbour and was a real gem, containing one of the finest Chinese restaurants in the city and having the most friendly and helpful staff I think we have ever come across.



One of the concierge staff in our hotel called Singapore the Fine city, warning us not to cross the road at unauthorised places. We found it refreshing to be in a city with hardly any litter, where traffic lights are obeyed, and everything is clean and organised. Rules and regulations are less obviously present than in say Australia, it is just that here in Singapore people follow the rules.

Malls link to the next mall in a seemingly never ending chain of air conditioned shopping heavens. You are oblivious to the weather. It could rain, it could thunder but nothing is allowed to stop the spending in the malls. Yet Singapore still has retained some of its old buildings. The perfect white cathedral, the cricket club. Asians were not allowed to be members until the 1970s. The Chinese markets have all the bustle of present day China with a cornucopia of vegetables and strange meats. The Indian areas were just starting the celebrations for Divali and brightly coloured decorations were strung along the streets. We had a wonderful and wonderfully cheap meal at an Indian restaurant in Racecourse road. Large helpings of free saffron rice and two different vegetable curries arrived before our ordered meal and it was hard not to over-eat.



We visited the national museum, unfortunately a bit blighted for us by a group yelling Singaporean school children. However, it helped appreciate the pivotal importance of Singapore to the British empire, and the devastating impact of losing it. The British army of 80,000 surrendered to 30,000 Japanese who unbeknown to the British had run out of ammunition.

We strolled along the banks of the Singapore river visiting the various quays which are mainly now upmarket eating and drinking areas reminiscent of some docklands areas of London. We even found a bridge with a notice like the one on Albert Bridge instructing soldiers to break step when crossing the bridge.





Singapore has much to be said for it - clean, well ordered and attractive, but perhaps lacking in real excitement.

The street food sellers all work from special areas now with registered hygienic stalls. The hawkers date back to the beginning of the 20th century at the time of the great influx of Chinese workers. There were 10 times as many men as women so street food became the order of the day.

On leaving we noticed that all cars are checked to make sure their fuel tanks are over 3/4. This is to stop the Singapore drivers filling up with cheap Malaysian fuel.