Hi all Marquesas are really beautiful and totally unspoilt. Visited the 'town' to do customs at 7.15 - all relatively quick, but then had to post off our form in the post office which took almost two hours. You take a ticket and wait for the lovely lady, garlanded with fresh flowers to work her way through the locals' requests, which seemed to take from half a minute to half an hour to sort. Nearly all the local women wear fresh flowers either behind their ears, wreaths in their hair or elaborate necklaces. The town is a few buildings well spread apart and includes the post office, full of fresh flowers, a town hall, a Gendermerie in a small office, a school, the Gauguin museum and a few shops which sell everything from fish lures and clothes through fresh baguettes to building materials. There are about six hundred people on the island and they all seem quite prosperous. They seem to not use money much, and are self sufficient - fruit falls to the ground around them and there are wild goats, chickens and pigs all around, as well as fish in abundance in the sea. We then went on our tour of the island. There isn't much in the way of habitation outside the town, just a few churches and the odd house in a couple of bays. The one road is only accessible by 4WD and follows a high narrow ridge through rain forest and cloud down numerous hairpin bends overhanging the sea to eventually get to the site Iipona, which is the most important archaeological site in Polynesia. It was one of the roughest journey I have ever been on and we were all sore and bruised when we got to the site. Well worth it though. Stunning position and lots of tikis set amongst stone platforms and steps and ancient tattoo equipment. You see the biggest tiki in the picture. Had a swim/surf (first one since Galapagos)at a nearby beach and a local meal of goat in coconut milk (lots of wild goats everywhere) wild pig in a tasty sauce, and something that looked like raw tuna in coconut milk, but was actually a type of banana jelly, plus rice. Then set out on the two hour return journey. Visited the cemetery to see Gauguin and Jacques Brel's graves - both decorated with fresh flowers, shells and various oddments. Following day, the new Mayor held a lunch party for everyone on the island, including us. Held on the grass behind the Gauguin museum. Trestle tables under shades and masses of food, which kept arriving in massive bowls and palm leaf plates - excellent eating and you could take some away if you wanted. Just about all the locals were there and were taking full advantage of the food. We stuffed ourselves and then went back to the boat to leave for nearby island with lovely bays.

Cheers from J, K & M