11/30/2011, Beaufort, SC
Anchor up, and off we went from South Edisto River to Beaufort, NC. Cloudy, w/gusts of wind 20-30kts! White caps in Coosaw River (Jim's definition="a little choppy!!"). Jim decided we REALLY needed to bring Lady Lady to "Lady's Island Marina..." Little did we know at the time it is NOT Beaufort...but it was principle that she stay there! Current strong...and lost bow thruster just as we approached the dock!! Sun never came out, and winds continued. Once docked safely, Jim was able to repair the bow thruster (amazing how much we rely on such amenities!!). The we took our trusty bikes over the swing bridge, w/the winds gusting (thank you, Jim) so we could visit Beaufort!! A little un-nerving! Once we saw Beaufort, we got up the next morning w/the 1st swing bridge opening and came into the Town Marina. What a great little town!! We used a courtesy car to re-provision and then did the "touristy thing;" took a carriage ride into history! (I really wish I had spent more time enjoying history in school, because I am sure enjoying it now!!). Aside from great little shops (inclusive of ice cream fountains!), we visited old plantations and historic sites...one of which was St. Helena's Episcopal Church. Organized in 1712, it was used as a hospital during the Civil War and its flat tombstones became operating tables...still w/remnants of scalpel markings!! Back to boat...being buzzed by US Marine Corp jet fighters. They are part of a special operations unit called the Night Hawks. They fly search and destroy night operations. They are back from the Middle East learning some new weapons systems and of course being a secret night operations unit they fly -no lights -- at night - very fast and very low !! Sound is not enjoyable but comforting! Off tomorrow to Hilton Head -stay tuned.
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11/28/2011, Up a creek -again
Photo of Charlston 1700's home --in town -avg price $1-7 million!! Yikes,
We left Georgetown and anchored in Price Creek for the night. Did get to use my star finder. Saturday we got underway with a high tide and headed to Charleston. High tide makes it a lot simpler navigating the ditch. It's simple just keeping the red on the right side -UNTIL -you meet the Charleston river entrance buoys--then all hell breaks loose! Red Right Returning is a good rule but crossing and heading out to Ft Sumter creates some mis- matches. There is a lot of traffic and current plus the city view of Charleston is like entering New York or Boston for the first time.. It's all new country. I could only imagine the old Navy Square Riggers from the 1860's --some Union and some Confederate navigating and battling in these shoal waters!! Or even earlier during the Revolutionary war--wow what skill with only a lead line and paper chart drawn by Verrazano 150 years earlier!! I had a time of it with two GPS's and Dede telling me exactly which way to go!! We did finally get into the city of Charleston -stayed at the Charleston Maritime Marina and spent a great two days exploring one of America's oldest southern cities. Charleston was well fortified and protected during the Civil War and Sherman (the clown that burned down half the south to punish the rebels) did not get into the city to burn it. There are beautiful homes -in town plantations owner's homes -mansions. I (Jim) took a half day to visit the Yorktown Aircraft Carrier and museum. It was a long bike ride but the new bridge is one of the longest single cable bridges in the world and an experience in itself. On Sunday we went to St Philip's Episcopal Church -very much like our Trinity church in Newport -same wooden box pews with the preacher up on pulpit 20' feet over the parishioners. That is a bully pulpit if ever there was one! Chaleston has 187 Churchs, most w/spires outlining the sky-line and beautiful chimes ringing!! While I was at Yorktown, Dede spent the day touring "on bike," and shopping the expansive outdoor markets! Today, Monday, we got underway to head to Beaufort, SC, but the weather turned real nasty and we are anchored ---you guessed it- in another swamp creek- South Edisto River northern branch! Wind gusting to 35 w/rain in buckets -sitting in a bit wider than usual spot to give myself some anchor swing room--100' of chain on 45# anchor in 10' feet of soft mud---should hold -I hope as I get ready for bed. If you don't see any further news from us in a few days ---we'll be busy with the salvage operation!! Stay tuned...
Photo to come later.. Working on a new photo album thing -will post how to access tomorrow -if were still here!
Jim
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Ella :)
11/25/2011, Almost aground in trhe Middle!
There are many more but this sort of says it all!!
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What fun I'm having with your venture. You both look grast (TDay pix). We spent the day at the Sammis's with your cousin and his wife Chris. Met them a few years ago.
A belated Happy Thanksgiving to both of you.
Love,
Ella and Mike (who, thankfully, continues to improve after his surgery, and has quit smoking!!!)
Luv,
Ella
11/25/2011, Jeremy Creek
We got underway from Minim Creek at dawn at high tide... heading to McClellanville for breakfast! The ebbing tide of 2-3 kts got us to town in time for lunch!! McClellanville is a picturesque old-fashion fishing village (population arnd 500) on Jeremy Creek. It was once busy w/shucking houses and oyster canneries...actually the center of the local oyster industry - but its' economic growth deteriorated as people no longer wanted oysters in a can!! It is now the home to a large shrimping fleet...and the best key lime pie around as we were informed in Georgetown (hence, our/Jim's need to visit this town!!). The "town" consist of 4-buildings!! one of which is the local restaurant. Lunch was great, and Jim confirmed that the key lime pie is definitely rated at 5 stars!!!! When we ret'd after lunch, 3 hrs later, there was a significant drop in tide - 6 feet!!!!! (We thought we lost our boat - needed to borrow a ladder to climb down!!). In order to get to Charlestown by Sat, we needed to head down the ICW in spite of lower than normal low tides. Somewhat unnerving when the fathometer read 5ft 2in when our draft is 5ft 6in!!!!! Thank goodness it is soft mud!! Arrived in Price Creek, just after low tide, at 4:30pm. Jim is anxiously waiting for dark so he can use his newly purchased "book on stars." Stay tuned....
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11/24/2011, Georgetown, SC
Thanksgiving Day was about people not places. We decided to start our thanksgiving w/giving thanks at church. Went to Prince George Chapel w/"Miss Minnie," a freed plantation slave family, who went on to become educated and a professor. She is 95-years old, and has every one of her faculties!! Miss Minnie gave us a book written about her - her life on the plantation; and, her "owner" hosting Pres. Hoover and Winston Churchill, among others. Miss Minnie was instrumental in the development of the Head-start Program! The church service was absolutely beautiful, w/organ music and the Eucharist. The church was full. According to the organist, with whom we had "hitched" a ride, many of the parishioners are decedents of the original plantation owners, and fly via their private planes, to their family's plantation homes for the holidays! After such an enriching and emotional morning, we proceeded on our bikes to join "Mama Jane," her family and friends for a Thanksgiving Day spread!! We thanked our host, biked back to the boat and left the dock around 2 pm and anchored for a beautiful night in the 250,000 acre Francis Marion (the Swamp Fox of the Civil War ) National Forest under the stars in the swamp of Minim Creek, off the ICW. The night was pitch black and Jim tried to be an astronomer -he could see the Milky Way but couldn't find the North Star!! Guess we need a book on that for tomorrow night swamp anchorage. What a day!! Stay tuned...
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11/22/2011, Georgetown Harbor
Got underway about 7am, after spending the night on anchor in Calabash Creek, NC/SC border. The sun came out of the morning clouds about 7:30 and we had a bright sunny day warming up into the low 70's. Only problem with the day was a strong 15-20 kt south wind and 5 kt of current against us until late afternoon when the tide changed. The wind and current made the trip a long day from NC to Georgetown SC ...about 60 miles! Our journey took us thru the busy commercial and glitzy section of Myrtle Beach; which included a 3-mile stretch of a place called the "rock pile," a potential nightmare for some cruisers!! The ICW then opend into a much more rural area with lovely homes lining the banks. At mile-marker 375 we entered the Waccamaw River...a 50-mile river deep to its wooded banks w/moss draped cypresses lining its side streams. The river is tea-colored, causing the infamous "moustache" on the boat. The river is a nature-lover's paradise w/turtles sunning themselves on floating logs...as well as the "gators!!" Althou we took many pics, the beauty needs to be experienced!! The river opened up under a 65 foot bridge into the small SC back water town of Georgetown. Althou we had intended to attempt to reach Charleston, we decided this was not an area to pass up!! We took a dock for the night in the Geargetown Harbor. Georgetown was founded in 1730 and is the 3rd oldest city in SC. It was established as a port of entry in 1732 until the Civil War...it built vast riches by shipping rice, indigo and lumber throughout the world. A series of disastrous hurricanes wiped out the rice and indigo, but the lumber industry remained. We took our bikes on a little tour...looking for a place to spend Thanksgiving. We had dinner at "Aunnie's," a soul-food restaurant. "Mama Jane" invited us to join her friends and family for a REAL Thanksgiving dinner (southern style!!)...for free!! When we ret'd on the boat, we proceeded to read about the "Gullah" African-American cooking...listed in "1000 Things To Do Before You Die!!" Who would have thought that is how we are spending our Thanksgiving...according to "Mama Jane," you enter her restaurant as a stranger and leave as a friend!! Tomorrow weather predictions are for T-showers, so we will don our rain gear, get on our bikes and tour this yet another fantastic town! Stay tuned...
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Dan & linda
miss you guys
