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Lemons Way
The continuing adventures of a cruising sailor/family lawyer, his wife (also a lawyer), and their young children.
Jake In My Bed
10/18/2008

If you're wondering about Jake and Anne, they are fine. Unfortunately, Anne caught a case of worms while in remote Little Harbor, so Fred and I put the dogs in the truck (we couldn't leave Jake by himself on the boat, that would be cruel), shlepped them to Marsh Harbor (20 miles by road), brought Anne in to the vet and weighed her, walked out with four $8 pills, and the next day she was worm free. No paperwork required. Fred was very kind to us while we were in Little Harbor and his friendship will not be soon forgotten. Little Harbor was a place where the dogs could run free and play in the clear water to their heart's content (except when the a-hole doctor was around). It was a special little piece of paradise in a greater paradise called Abaco, Bahamas.

A Moorings Starship
Keith, rainy and windy
10/18/2008, Little Harbor

I call them starships because they are huge (47 feet long and very wide) and have four cabins, four bathrooms, air conditioning throughout with onboard generator, big screen TVs, and much more. They also cost almost $10,000 a week to rent. They ran their generators pretty much all the time but diesel is included in the charter fee so what do they care. My boat, on the other hand, went for almost 10 days on wind and some solar power without ever having to run an engine and cost nothing for that particular week.

Keith Sailing
10/18/2008, Somewhere in the sea of Abaco

In spite of the weather I have been able to sail a lot more lately. The Catalina 36 wants to sail and sails a lot better than it motors. Having the sails up also makes for a smoother ride in heavy conditions. Aside from my first day sailing north from Little Harbor in heavy winds and seas, the last few days have been light and sunny, allowing me to put all the sails up. I've even got the Hydrovane up and running.

Sunset Through The Mozzie Screen In The Companionway
Keith, nice but very buggy
10/18/2008, Off Grabbers In Great Guana Cay

I spent last night at an anchorage off Great Guana that I wanted to try from the last time I was there, however, the mozzies were out with a vengence. South of Guana I experienced hardly any mozzies, but they are back now that we're farther north again. More likely it is the lack of strong breeze that is allowing them to go back on the attack. After almost four months of cruising through the entire summer and early Fall, I've got the bug prevention routine down pretty well, so I don't get bit very often. Nevertheless, it was a spectacular sunset, don't you think? In the cruising life we often go to sleep pretty early and wake up early, but we always catch the sunrises and the sunsets as they are often the most beautiful time of the day.

Tropical Reality In Marsh Harbor
Nice
10/18/2008

It's been many days since I had an internet connection so I don't know how many will read this, but Jake, Anne and I are doing well and back at Green Turtle Cay. We had a great time in Little Harbor, snorkling, scuba diving down the blue hole, hiking around the island, visiting neighboring towns, watching movies, reading books, making food with Fred, hanging out with the moorings charter starships, and much more. But the weather just kept deteriorating and I got sick of waiting for a window south and decided it was time to head back north. Naturally at that point the weather calmed considerably and then starting blowing from the north for the last several days. Would have been perfect conditions to continue heading south but alas, I tire of cruising alone with my two dogs and dare I say am beginning to miss my family, friends, the legal profession, and the other nice things in my life outside cruising. I think the lower Bahamas would be an even better (and safer) experience when I can cruise with someone and share the adventure. Enough for now. The above photo was taken from the big yellow boat I breakfasted on while in Marsh Harbor two nights ago. I was going to head past Green Turtle and stay someplace altogether new tonight, but there is supposed to be a front coming through tonight and tomorrow and I'd prefer to be someplace where I can find protection and other people if I have to wait out the weather. I'll post more while I'm here tonight and at least tomorrow morning, but I may not have internet again for a while after that.

Fred, My Little Harbor Adventure Guide
10/11/2008

Fred is the one without a shirt. He is the caretaker of Pete's Pub and Gallery and rental houses while the place is shut down for the low season. With time on our hands, Fred has been taking me on all sorts of adventures, which I will describe above. The guy next to him is Rob. Rob came to the Bahamas with some gear for the purpose of sailing that little canoe sailboat back to the States. Kind of puts things into perspective.

The View From Hope Town Lighthouse
10/11/2008

I was able to hike up to the top of the lighthouse. Scary, but spectacular.

We're Back On the Radar
Keith, breezy and not raining
10/11/2008, Little Harbor, Abaco, Bahamas

It's been a little over a week since I was last connected and what a week it's been. I'll try and upload some pictures and tell about what we've been up to. For now, let me report that Jake, Anne and I are safe and enjoying ourselves in the mostly deserted paradise of Little Harbor.

Matza Ball Soup In The Tropics
Variable, but generally rainy
10/03/2008, Great Guana Cay

My mother sent me off with a glass jar of Maneshevitz Matza Ball soup. I made it to celebrate the Jewish New Year. It was tasty, but not as good as home made.

Hope Town Light
Keith, cooler but we've had a cold front and some serious rain too
10/03/2008, Abaco, Bahamas

The internet connections seem to be less and less reliable as I continue along through the Bahamas. It's really hit and miss when it comes to catching a signal from the boat without any extra internet antenna. I'm presently located in a very protected harbor along Hope Town on an island just an hour or so cruise from the main town in this area, Marsh Harbor. I made it through the Whale Cay passage without too much trouble, just some growing swells that would have been difficult to turn around in had I chickened out, a thought that crossed my mind a number of times when it started to get rough. The worst part was driving through a huge downpour after that obstructed all view beyond 100 feet or so. It' been raining quite a lot, huge tropical-like downpours. I arrived at Great Guana Cay a few days ago, fueled (14 gallons) and filled my water tanks (70 gallons, but he only charged me for 60), and settled in for a hot, sticky afternoon. Like many places I encounter here, my initial impressions are completely different from the experience I have on the island. I didn't like Guana at first, but after spending some time in town and meeting the people, it grew on me. Aside from the friendly people and the few cruisers I met, they have nice beach club restaurants where good food, great views, and good times were had. Between rainstorms I managed to fix the air leak in the dingy and most of the drain leak. It's nice to have a safe shore craft again. I left Guana yesterday and had a beautiful cruise in emerald green waters. I decided since I was so close and had come so far to visit Marsh Harbor and took a detour for an hour or so to check it out. Too commercial for my taste. I toured the harbor from the sailboat, chatted with a guy from a boat I met at Powel Cay (while Jodi was here), and skipped the KFC and Burger King. Another hour or two and I was snug in the beautiful harbor at Hope Town. The lighthouse is kerosene powered and was built by the British in the late 1800s. It still shines a light at night. Because this harbor is so well protected from all sides it was like glass on the water last night and this morning. Very comfortable - and no mozzies at all. That is a real treat. Guana was swarming with them. We applied spray at every establishment, numerous times each day, and still got bit. Here it is cool and miraculously bug free. I don't get it but I won't complain. We dingied to shore briefly last night after we arrived and found a great Atlantic beach just a minute from the landing. In a little bit we will take a walk through town and maybe do a little provisioning. Many people provision at Marsh Harbor, but I really don't need that. I have enough food for a month at least and the stores I've seen so far are reasonably well stocked. They always have at least the basics like eggs and butter and potatoes and onions. Frozen meat can be found anywhere there are people. It may be more expensive in the mom and pop shops, but I don't eat that much. If all else fails, there are plentiful crawfish, conch, and other fish to be found. If I don't use up my stores they will go bad and I will have wasted them. So I'm good on the food front.

 

 
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