Otherworldly ironshore boulder near Glass Window

After visiting Rose's and reprovisioning at a local market we upped anchor and moved to the western side of Rock Sound Harbour to seek better wave shelter from January's last cold front and it's predictably clocking winds. When they had settled into moderate eastearly trades two days later we sailed a gentle beam reach to Governors Harbour where we dropped the Rocna off a beach south of the harbor. Once the seat of the Bahamian government, this settlement is slightly more organized and prosperous than some we've visited. Yet it still exhibits the relaxed approach to almost everything. Ashore for a walk with Chloe we asked the first local we met for directions to the Bakery. Before long we were clanking over potholes in his decrepit pickup. Chloe instantly became an island dog; front paws on the sides, head into the wind, tongue hanging out -- rules, what rules -- yehaaa! Somehow we all survived and our driver accepted $5 as we hopped out at a little outdoor cafe for sandwiches and Bahamian beers before walking back to the boat.

Moving on the next day we bypassed Hatchet Bay during another effortless 20-ish mile smooth water reach. Our destination: "Glass Window", a narrow and desolate section of Eleuthera where the Queen's Highway Bridge holds things together. This barren bluff of ironshore coast shows visible scars of nature's fury. Shards of an earlier bridge swept away, splintered stumps of power poles, both silent reminders to run early and run far when a tropical storm threatens.

The next day saw Thistle gliding now west on a serene and shallow turquoise sea to the aptly named "Current Cut" before turning north once again to Meeks Patch. Situated a mile or two below Spanish Wells, this small deserted cay offers serenity, appealing beaches, and all around protection if you're willing to switch sides as the wind clocks. Grinnell spent hours separating shards of broken glass from the sand in a rusting half-buried gas grill and rounding up stray trash to dinghy away. He also dug the grill out of the sand and flattened it for easier removal, thus also removing the temptation for those suspecting Heineken bottles might burn along with their cardboard and paper. Note to other cruisers heading to Meeks Patch: there is still metal and plastic trash to be removed. Spanish Wells has conveniently placed bins right along the waterfront. Bring a couple of Heftys ashore with you.