View from The Rock House, Harbour Island

There are two principal islands of note at the top of Eleuthera: Spanish Wells to the west and Harbour Island to the east. We visited both. To get to Spanish Wells you go through Current Cut, which can be rough if timed wrong. Navigating on to Harbour Island is altogether more intimidating. A six mile course named "The Devil's Backbone" (cheery, eh?) threads over shoals, through breaking coral heads, almost up onto a wild and deserted beach, around more coral heads, and then through the shallows into the natural harbor between Eleuthera and the appropriately named Harbour Island.

The seas being a bit rough (did I fail to mention the route is open to the Atlantic?) with a hefty swell rolling in we opted to save the fee for the strongly advised local pilot and instead enjoy a smoother ride on the high-speed twin-hulled ferry. Four big Cummins turbo diesels can push the hefty aluminum cat at probably better than 25 knots but the swell kept her throttled back through the rougher sections. I ran from side to side clicking away with the camera to create a visual record, for the next time we're down this way, and if the swell is down...

Spanish Wells and Harbour Island are both loyalist settlements. This is generally evidenced in more abundant displays of English tastes and mores. Harbour is quaint with an old New England village feel. With bountiful reefs and sun-soaked beaches supporting several resorts the industry is largly tourism. Spanish Wells, by contrast, is a fishing town. One that's doing pretty well by the looks of the place.

The top of Eleuthera offers more than interesting cultural contrasts -- it also positions one for the passage to the Abacos. Our last night in Eleuthera was spent anchored off Royal Island where we readied Thistle for departure at first light.