Out of Bounds

29 January 2017
27 January 2017
27 January 2017
26 January 2017
26 January 2017
26 January 2017
25 January 2017
20 January 2017
19 January 2017 | Riverside Pottery Homestay
18 January 2017
17 January 2017 | The Old Town, Hoi An, Vietnam
12 August 2016
06 August 2016

The Boat Race -Feb 2nd, 2017 scheduled for @ 9am

14 February 2017
As part of the HỘI AN LUNAR NEW YEAR FESTIVAL 2017 (Year of the Rooster) we made sure we didn't miss the Boat Race, held on February 2nd, 2017.

Like many festivals in Hoi An, Long Chu is a religious ceremony that concentrates on warding off ghosts and evil from the villages, while bringing luck and peace for the people.



An important part of the rituals is the casting of magic spells on 'ghosts' that carry these ailments. These ghosts are then cast into the river, to be discarded later in the sea. After these rituals is the grand finale, a boat race!

Team Cửa Đại burning incense and throwing paper into the water to bless the event and for good luck .. unfortunately, more garbage into the water.

One benefit of living right here is that we can get up, have breakfast, walk around the corner and watch the next festival or event. This year, Feb 2nd Hoi An's fishermen took to their boats for the annual island boat race at 9am. It was another rainy day, but it seemed everyone turned out to watch the race. We heard, last year over 5000 people turned up to cheer on their team, and as you will notice from our photos, it certainly was packed again this year.

Teams descend from all areas of Quang Nam to take part in the event... and before this photo was taken, they had been practicing all morning and were pumped.

Leaving Mark & Julie on An Hoi, we walked over the bridge to Hoi An to watch the boat race. Here is a photo of the crowds on our little island.

We laughed as we witnessed a popular old tradition of throwing water at the boat handlers to bring them good luck. It looked as if they meant to sink them!

It was very exciting to watch the boats round the mark and hilarious to witness the boats clearly missing the mark. Did they have to go around again? Nope! Were they penalized for touching the mark? Nope! Evidently if you miss the mark, the first boat handler grabs the mark and brings the boat to a stop, then pulls the mark around the front and off they go. For most of the race, they approached the mark, and the lead boat handler whacked the mark (like a baseball swing) to the side forcing the mark to bend allowing them to clear the mark.


Sometimes they would all arrive at the mark and it was comical to watch them fight their way around one point of entry, coming at it from all directions trying to take the inside pushing off the rest. It worked for the most part, but as you will see, this boat just didn't get it right and tipped over. In the water the boat handlers, probably not able to swim, had to dodge the other boats as they paddled right over their capsized boat and continued to race.


This years winner and congratulations goes to Team Thanh Ha!

And Second place goes to Team Trung Chau!

Cam Nam Island

29 January 2017
After recovering from our second New Years Eve, we decided to walk across a bridge to the island called Cam Nam. It seems most tourists stop at the end of the Hoi An market and venture no further, which is a shame because Cam Nam is a delightful area of Hoi An and it's really nice to get away from the hectic pace of central Old Town. We decided to try and find the Thu Bon Homestay that my cousin Anne and Clive had stayed at while in Hoi An. Following Google map, we waked straight down the main road and to the left. When we found the homestay, I sheepishly ventured into the front living quarters even though no one was around. This was Tet and family time and I was not sure if they were sleeping off the effects of celebrating or if they were even open for business. As I turned around a neighbour pulled up on her bike to drop something off and ran inside the house to get the hosts. When I showed this lovely young lady (who was embarrassed because she wasn't out of her pj's) a photo of Anne, she remembered her last name and gave this huge welcoming smile. I explained that I was here to wish them "Chuc Mung Nam Moi" from my cousin Anne and Clive and that we had rented a home on An Hoi, and would come back for a visit another day, more suitable for guests. Here I am, standing on the lower step, in front of the homestay with the host on the upper step so that we can get in the same photo. Next time we'll have to find a map and rent a bike to enjoy this island again.

Looking out from the bridge towards the Old City of Hoi An

Sometime, it's just too early to have a beer.. and we pay the big bucks for bottled water and soft drinks.

More photos from our little An Hoi neighbourhood

29 January 2017
This photo we are looking from the end of our An Hoi island toward the Cam Nam bridge.
Usually we set out for the market each morning after breakfast and each day we tend to plan to do a few more errands from our list. After walking around Cam Nam Island for the most part of the day, Julie and I decided to go for a stroll around An Hoi.

Looking the other way.

Little did we know how important this photo of these wonderfully painted and stored boats would be in a few days time.. and this shrine.


"Chúc Mừng Năm Mới" (Happy New Year)!

28 January 2017
This is the year of the Rooster (2017) and the fireworks go off tonight.. January 27th. Tet this lunar year will be celebrated from 27th January to 1st February and we are right in the thick of things.


Last night we enjoyed the fireworks and all the festivities. We took the advise from my cousin Anne and Clive and sat on the balcony at Fusion Café to people watch.


As we approached midnight we wandered up the street to find a less crowded spot to take in the ongoing festivities on the stage that was erected in the Old Town of Hoi An.


As the countdown began we realized that our choice spot, alongside the Thu Bon River, was very close to the area where they had decided it best to deploy the fireworks but it was too late to move. We were so lucky we didn't have one land on us.

Markets

27 January 2017
This photo was taken at the Ba Le Market. We found quite a few items at this stall.

Steve's been quite ill since moving in on Friday, So for the first few days, Mark, Julie and I searched for items like cutlery, plates, large coffee mugs, dish soap, dish rags, scrubbers, hand towels, cleaning supplies and kitchen utensils. It seemed we walked forever! But we were very successful! We even found a frying pan and a hanging drying rack at the Ba Le Market. In total, we spent around $40US each.

A very crowded Tiger Market that is about a 10 minute walk north of the Old Town.

Here I am at the Vien Gau market buying some spices, pepper, peanuts and sesame seeds. We can hardly fit between the stalls ... add a few Vietnamese ladies pushing their way passed you and barging in front.. you might understand the chaos.

The Vien Gau market is nearby about a 10 minute walk the opposite way from town. Along side the vegetables are the stalls with noodles and open tables of pork, chicken and various animal parts all being chopped up. The catch of the day are along the sides of the market, on the floor. We are offered fish, eels and shrimp.

Even the Chickens are Dressed for Tet!

Street Food

27 January 2017
Photo of our first real "Street food".

Even though we had lots of food in our bags, having hunted through 2 markets one day, we found this lady cooking up a storm on the side of the street. Her tables seemed clean and the bunch of young adults told us the food was fantastic! So, we bought 8 skewers of bbq pork.

Mark wasn't prepared to sit of those tiny chairs (either were Julie and I), so we took our street food home and enjoyed the afternoon around our newly purchased outdoor furniture.

Guests

26 January 2017
We invited Quyen (sounds like Win) our host at our Homestay to visit us one day when he had some free time. He dropped by driving his motorbike. His mother Mùa Xuân (sound's like mue swan) needed a ride to Hoi An Market. We asked if one day he could take us around the market but Quyen knows nothing about buying food. He just eats! His mother said she would be happy to take us sometime after Tet.

'Tết Nguyên Đán'

26 January 2017
Tet In Vietnam is the most important festival in the Vietnamese calendar; a celebration focused on friends, family and preparing for the year ahead. Tet itself means Festival and now I know why we have also heard the term 'Tết Nguyên Đán', which is Sino-Vietnamese for 'Feast of the First Morning of the First Day'.

Here, school children are participating in a 3-legged race with 4 people (I have no clue as to how many legs were really in the race?). The sign in the photo means " Welcome Party to Spring Camp".


In preparation for Tet, all the hotels, homestay, homes and streets in Hoi An have been preparing for Tet. Each day we've noticed more and more flags hung overhead, and lanterns hung from every vacant space.


Hoi An and it's remote riverside pathways have become colourful!




We've watched the gradual construction of a large stage and the entrance over our bridge to and from An Hoi has been decorated so elaborately, it almost causes more havoc trying to navigate. There is certainly an increase of traffic and people on the streets.


Here are Julie and Mark enjoying the rehearsal.

Hoi Xuan: 'Spring Festival'

26 January 2017
Tet is also considered to be the first day of spring, so is also known as Hoi Xuan: 'Spring Festival'. Hoi An has become beautifully transformed. Everywhere there are yellow chrysanthemum's (they say they are daisy's); each stem decorated with red flowers.

I went for a walk the other day and met my neighbour whom insisted I sit with her. After about a 10 minute conversation (don't ask me if she understood) they insisted I enter their home to see inside. No photos, but it was full of large brass sculptures and antiques. I think we live in a very mixed neighbourhood. Her husband was attaching his leg which had be blown off in the war. He proudly said he fought With the American's. Once we came back outside, I asked if I could take a photo of her very large kumquat bush.
We were told by our agent Ha, that the bushes were not to be eaten because they chemical enhance the fruit.



This is a temple we passed on our way to the market. As you can see, it is beautifully decorated. You're going to get the idea we always go to the market.. Yes, we do!


Bánh Tét

25 January 2017
Special foods have been prepared and we've watched one family, that live across the street, cooking up a storm! They've been preparing hundreds of bánh tét, a Vietnamese savoury (but sometimes sweetened cake) made primarily from glutinous rice, which is rolled in a banana leaf into a thick, log or square. We learned from Quyen that the round Day cake symbolizes the sky and the square Chung cake symbolizes the Earth. We finally conjured up enough nerve to go and ask to buy one from her.


Our neighbours kitchen counter.. The Floor

Cleaning, Sweeping, Dusting and Hosing off, before Tet

24 January 2017
Entire contents of houses have been dragged to the street side to be hosed off and cleaned.
I wonder if this is a new business started because of Tet, or does this girl sell from her bike, like this, everyday?

Sights from around our neighbourhood

22 January 2017
Laundry Day. Everyday we venture to one or two markets and this was obviously a good day to do Laundry! It has been a little snotty weather wise and today there wasn't a cloud in the sky.

Garbage
Dust Bin Collection is Monday, Wednesday and Friday for Organic and Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday for Non-organic. It cost us $1.10US/mo (25,000 vnd)
We just put our bag of garbage outside in a clay pot (provided by the owner after one night Mark hanging it from a neighbours tree) and it disappears.
Early one day on our walk to the market we found it!

The Green Taxi

The green coloured Taxi is metered and always a fair price. Taxis so far have been between 50,000 - 70,000 vnd ($2-$3.50 US). The taxi to our homestay from Danang Airport was $14US

Our home for the next few months.

21 January 2017
We decided to rent the 3 bedroom/4 bathroom home on the Island of An Hoi, which is right across from the Old Town of Hoi An. We now live at 8 Luu Quy Ki street (sound's like Loo We Key). It is simply furnished with a low cushioned sofa, a small kitchen table (which we have since discovered, is impossible to sit at because our long, big, western style legs simply won't fit underneath..lol) and 3 beds (no side tables) with hard Vietnamese style mattress's. We do not have a western style kitchen. We have a propane 2 burner cooktop which sits on the counter, a bunch of chop sticks, 3 small fruit-sized bowls, 6 small juice glasses, 2 plastic colanders, 1 small pot and 1 med/large pot. We do however have a working washing machine and AC! Now that's an improvement over living aboard L.P.
When we put in our offer to rent, we asked for out door furniture and when we arrived, there it was in all its glory, a wooden table and four chairs and large orange umbrella! We can sit in our front garden and watch all that is going on! It's wonderful! And we are happy with our choice of location.

Looking from the front bedroom
There have been a few things not working and Cuc has sent one relative or another to sort us out. Today when we were about to leave, we couldn't lock the front gate because the key wouldn't come out of the lock. Anyway, it is good the owner lives right next-door.
We joke.. It's almost like owning a boat, you never know what's not going to work next.

Where to get propane, how to pay utilities, when to put out garbage .. all normal but with a huge language barrier. I've picked up a little Vietnamese and I'm constantly asked; "How do you say..."
I know how to say Thank you = cảm ơn, Hello = xin chào, I'm sorry = xin lỗi... And that's about it. I'm not sure I'll learn any more.
Oh, the bathroom, just ask for WC!

So far everything has been great. The owner who lives next door has even warmed up to us. Her name is Cuc (sounds like Cup). She came through the gate one day and just dropped of a rug for the front doorway and 2 days ago we heard a bunch of commotion (it always sounds like they are yelling at us..lol). Cuc and her daughter Nhưng (sounds like Newm) appeared with a rice cooker.

Here's the link to the house listing: http://hoianhouse.com/listing/3-bedroom-house-rent-hoi-an-minh-an-hah257/

Pottery Village

20 January 2017
We decided to put an offer together for the biggest and more expensive house situated out of town. Waiting for a response from our agent Ha, was driving us crazy, so we decided to hop on the free bikes provided by our Homestay and go visit the nearby Pottery Village. It was a wonderful way to pass the time.

The big landmark is the Terracotta Village, which was situated in the center of the park. In true Vietnamese tourism fashion, it is extremely kitsch, with the front garden full of clay replicas of the architectural wonders of the world, everything from the Taj Mahal to the Colosseum in Rome. We have many more photos posted in our gallery.. but we don't want to spoil Thera and Barry's visit posting them all here. It is truly an attraction we will investigate again and it's near the fish market, but you have to go there early to buy the fresh catch of the day.. I mean really early. Like 3am!


On the way home we decided to take a chance at another roadside restaurant. It was definitely cleaner than our first roadside restaurant in the same area. To this day we have no idea what we ate there.

The Mi Quang served today was good (and we recognized the meat) but definitely not as good as the little spot Quyen took us too the other day.

A Vietnamese tradition.. the Annual Year End Party

19 January 2017 | Riverside Pottery Homestay
The next morning, we asked our host Quyen (which sounds like "Kwhin") if he would like to drive us back to view the houses of consideration and drive us around an area that we thought would be of interest to us. He jumped at the chance. Unfortunately, there was some kind of miscommunication. We managed to find the first house, but I think he was expecting to be able to look inside and go through the house. Quyen asked "What price asking?" and he told us "I think too much!". We drove through Ba La Market and asked to go to Cua Dai beach. We wanted to see how far a bicycle ride it would be to both. Sadly, Cua Dai Beach was a disappointment. It was washed away in 2014 and it looked unlikely to return any time soon. Then Quyen drove further north and pointed the direction towards An Bang Beach, which we will explore some other time but today we had to meet up with our real estate agent and we wanted to take Quyen out to lunch. We asked him to pick the restaurant. He asked what type of food? We (in unison) shouted Vietnamese food! We were taken to the BEST Mi Quang in Hoi An and it was a fabulous lunch. Five Mi Quang, 4 beers and one 7-up for 200,000 dong ($10)! We were stuffed! Mi Quang is fresh rice noodles, similar to fettuccine in size with pork, shrimp, and a broth sweetened by tomatoes. It's garnished with grilled rice crackers, lettuce, and herbs. We were stuffed! That's when we all realized our first bowl of soup was not at all good! God only knows what we had that day. After lunch he dropped us off at the agents office and we ended up putting in an offer for the first home. We caught a cab home and wondered what to do for dinner but during sundowners, Quyen asked if we would join him and his family, his extended family and his friends for tonight's Annual End Of Year Party. Our attendance would bring his family good luck in the New Year. 5 young Chinese students, all of whom spoke excellent English, joined us at our table. Between their helpful advice and Quyen's regular visits to our table, and some additional willing help from his family, we didn't embarrass ourselves too badly.
Lets just say, tonight's dinner and drinks solved!


House hunting today

18 January 2017
Jan 18
Today we enjoyed an early breakfast and were picked up by Ha to see 5 houses. It was a long day. After seeing the last house (on An Hi Island, which is across from the Old Town) we discussed our options and decided to consider three homes.
The first house we liked was close to Ba Le Market, had good airflow and a view from the balcony, and was newly built, but the negatives were that it was new, stark, and large. It was beautiful with Vietnam type uncomfortable wood furniture and beds but it also came with a higher price.
The 2nd house had a western well-equipped kitchen, comfortable sofa, near a shrimp pond and slightly closer for walking to beach. The negatives were its location. It seemed more remote, was gated to keep the dogs out, and faced a transfer station. The comfy sofa was very appealing!
The last house of consideration was right in the Old Town and surprisingly new, was a good price, all bedrooms had ensuite baths, and the owner seemed willing to please us with various requests (like outdoor chairs, table, and umbrella). However, although new, it wasn't like the first home and we had mixed feelings about the location. We like the location for enjoying the upcoming festivals but hated the location because of the same.
We fired off an email explaining our thoughts and walked home to our homestay. We all were confused and not sure what to do.

Good Morning Vietnam!

17 January 2017 | The Old Town, Hoi An, Vietnam
The first thing I asked myself after waking up was, “What Day is it?” Yup, I just checked. It’s Tuesday, Jan 17th.

We noticed a sign last night that stated breakfast was not served after 10am, but our host assured us they would serve us breakfast at any time, considering we had arrived so late! Why we were awake by 7:30am beats me!, but as I ventured downstairs I wondered if our friends Julie and Mark had arrived. Indeed they had. Mark had already finished his breakfast and Julie was soon to join us. I expressed the need for coffee and was served a teeny, tiny cup of java. It was really good but ever so small. Number one on the shopping list. Go in search of coffee and a good-sized coffee cup!

We all decided we needed a short morning nap to conjure up enough energy to go for an afternoon walk. We ended up walking to Hoi An’s Old Town (approximately 3.8KM). While there we bought our $6US Tourist tickets to enter (more on that later) and slowly poked around.

It started to rain, so we found a spot that had larger plastic chairs and enjoyed another beer waiting for the rain to subside. On our way home we stopped at one of the restaurants we had noticed along the street and tasted our first soup bowl of some type of meat (we think it was chicken) and noodles. A couple of days later we discover it wasn’t the best but for this day it became our lunch and dinner because after our hike home, we all crashed and went for an afternoon nap that continued through the night.

Log update.. This years adventure takes us on our very first trip to the other side of the world, Vietnam Asia! Jan 15th to April 8th, 2017

17 January 2017 | Riverside Pottery Homestay, Hoi An, Vietnam
We landed in Vietnam on Monday, January 16th @ 7:50pm departing from Toronto (via Air Canada) Sunday morning, with one stop over in Hong Kong. During our connecting flight from Hong Kong to Vietnam, Steve's watch alarm went off (Canadian time 6:30 am) and we both realized we had been awake for over 24 hours, and we weren't even there yet. Somewhere along the line, AM became PM and we lost a day and had missed martini hour!
Let's talk about our flight with AC.. well, picture this. Soon after settling in, Steve lost his kindle down the side of his seat and tried to shove his head in between his V'd like wide spread legs, knees jammed on either side of the seat in front, and I thought he'd never come up breathing! I'm laughing so hard as I type this, because I'm tired, but it was a sight to see and I took pity on the poor guy! To make a long story short, I decided it is far to long a trip, for Steve to be jammed into a seat with his right shoulder in the window well, unable to budge and today I paid the big bucks and upgraded to Exit row seats for our flight home!
Unfortunately, both airlines were delayed for one reason or another adding to the already long journey. We arrived late to Hong Kong, which shortened our stopover time but made for a mad dash to the ticket counter of Cathay Dragon. Finding the ticket counter wasn't a problem. Signage was in English as well as Cantonese. Getting to our departure gate was surprisingly a challenge. It was easy enough after we went back to the counter to get further instructions. A couple of escalators down to catch a subway-type train, departing at the next stop, two escalators up to catch a bus that took us over to another building and following the crowd until we walked past a kiosk with a large "?" to ask how to get to our gate. Of course! We had to go through departures but I couldn't see the sign to save my life. "See that green Light over there. Follow the Green light." A Great Gatsby move!
We landed late with Cathay Dragon but we were through customs, with bags in hand, by 8:40pm. Steve walked out to the street to find our driver holding a sign with our names on it while I gathered up the entails of our carry-on luggage. When I walked out, Steve was nowhere in sight. I was so tired I just stood there staring at the crowd. Finally, I heard a gruff "Margaret, over here!" and with that, I found we were only two steps away from our car. With Steve in the front seat, he began to try to start a conversation with the driver but after a few words with the driver constantly trying to apologize for not having the same understanding of English, Steve realizes it's pointless. "Stupido gringo" doesn't bring a laugh here. What he did say "speak wittle Engish ..45 minette".
The drive to our Homestay was 45 minutes of terror! And this was not because of our driver. He was cautious and considerate of every bump in the road and we gave him the equivalent of $5 for getting us to the Riverside Pottery Homestay in one piece! The terror was due to the amount of traffic from Pedestrians, bicycles, motorbikes (with parents and babies), taxi's, and buses taking up every inch road, all squeezing into the same lane, from all directions. It was a nightmare! With a couple of near misses, I took Steve's advice and closed my eyes.
Once at our homestay, we were greeted by the family and invited to eat and chat. You can imagine how tired we were. I politely apologized and turned down a free meal! What kind of cruiser does that! We instead, asked for a glass of water, which arrived heated! So, then Steve asked for a couple of beers! Eventually we were shown our room and hit the sack around 10PM (our time 10 AM). Goodnight all.

CLOD

12 August 2016
Marg
Cruisers Living on Dirt..
Hum.. No, this is not an add for "Merrell". Steve and I are in another dreaming stage, wondering what and where our next adventure will take us. We have a few ideas that we are kicking around... so, it may be time to invest in a new pair of sandals. I will add, these sandals have been throughly tested as you can see. (Thank goodness no one can smell them..lol)

06 August 2016
Affectionately reminded of Lion's Paw. Enjoying a day in Orangeville, Ontario.
Forever ours. Rumour has it that the new owners are going to rename her... sad, but we're Happy to keep the name dear to us.
Vessel Name: Lion's Paw #315
Vessel Make/Model: Whitby 42 #315
Hailing Port: Registered in Edmonton.. why not eh!
Crew: Marg & Steve Colquhoun
About: Coming full circle around the Caribbean, we have sold Lion's Paw and are now Cruisers Living on Dirt.. but you can't take the sailor out of anyone.
Extra: This blog is meant for family and friends whom wish to share in our adventure. I plan to add a few comments along the way that may be of help for those wishing to embark on a similar voyage. Looking forward to meeting you out there!
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