Ben completes his advanced diving certificate with Keri and Helena from S/V Merilelu
November 4, 2012

Find Your Inner Flea
No, I haven’t gone looney, and no, I do not have fleas. I have, however, recovered from a nasty staph infection on my hand and face – courtesy of the very loving children of Niuetoputapu – so no more painful oozing sores for me, yay!. So what’s your inner flea you’re wondering? Well, as we thoroughly enjoyed a live performance called Augustine’s Circus Spectacular the other night, I had to keep pinching myself. Who would have thunk we would be treated to such talent in the tiny capital of Vava ‘u? And yes, this show was a flea circus (damn, I forgot my glasses so I couldn’t see the little devils!). What a creative delight it was with a great moral to the story – hence “Find Your Inner Flea”. In all of us, deep down, lies a bit of the strengths of the three main characters of the show; Hercules, Jimmy, and Fifi, and this is what each and every one of us needs to get in touch with. Like Hercules, we need to find our courage – to forge ahead and stay strong when times are tough. Like Jimmy, we need to maintain our openness and innocence. And like Fifi, let your inner and outer beauty shine through at all times. Within the next few days all of these things will be put to the test for us as we wait for a weather window to make our run to New Zealand. We need to stay strong and healthy for what will probably be the hardest passage of our life as of yet. We need to have faith and believe in ourselves and our boat. And, we need to have extra love and grace in our thoughts and our actions towards each other as the stress of this long passage builds.

Vava ‘u, Tonga has been a true cruisers paradise. Accessibility to the town of Neiafu, for groceries (albeit the worst provisioning as of yet this whole season), internet (albeit slow), restaurants (there are a few pretty yummy ones), and beautiful anchorages all within an hour or two from each other make it so. The water for diving and snorkeling has been the clearest we have seen as of yet, and the coral in a few places simply amazing. We arrived here right at the end of the humpback whale season, as they have now all left to make their long trek back to Antarctica, so we were very lucky to have had the experience we did in the previously posted video. It has been distressing to learn of some of the changes and possible threats that have taken place here within the past few years. The first, as with many places in the world I’m sure, is the condition and/or death of the coral. One of the problems here now is the fact that apparently there is a lust for the sea cucumber for the Chinese. So what happens, is that the locals see it as an easy way to make money and simply go out and pick them up by the buckets full to be shipped out. Anytime the balance in nature is disrupted there are consequences. But what is so surprising is how quick this happens and when we speak with people who have been living here and are witnessing these changes it is frightening. We can attest to the fact that as we travel through these countries, and see time and time again an Asian country who is donating solar power to the homes, or building bridges or stadiums or highways or schools, all great things, but these “free” things are not really free. I know I sound harsh, and I do apologize for this, but this has been a common running theme for several years now and we are appalled and sick of hearing about it. The new threat we are hearing here is the possibility of the Tongans opening up their waters to the Japanese for their whaling quota – in the name of research I’m sure. Bottom line is, the way people are eating and catching fish/marine animals now is not at a sustainable rate and the fragile balance in the entire ocean eco-system is at risk. It is very, very sad.

As of last Friday, we were all cleared out of the country, fueled up, and well provisioned for several weeks. The plan was to let Ben finish up his advanced scuba certification, say goodbye to several of the local friends we have made and head directly to New Zealand, with a possible stop in Minerva Reef if the weather called for it. By Saturday morning however, on the advisement of our weather router Commanders Weather, our plans were put on hold due to a low that was building over Fiji, heading our direction and looking like it was going to cause high winds and seas. Sigh…these are the trials and tribulations of sailing, only this time there are so many boats that we know that are in various positions of this journey that our thoughts are all consumed with their safety. We listen morning and night to the crackling SSB (single side band radio) noting their position updates and conditions. I wake up in the middle of the night, thinking about them and pray for their safety. My stomach feels like it is in knots. We are tired, we are ready, and we just want to get going.

Nov.8 – The storm passed over us last night as we were still safely tied on to a solid mooring ball tucked in Neiafu harbor, very happy that we did not take off on Saturday. To our horror this morning there are currently three boats in treacherous conditions, one that has turned around to try and get back to the boat that was rolled over, with injuries to the sailors and now the boat is taking on water. The third boat has sent out a distress call but that is all anyone knows.

We are also very sad to say that we have just learned that Larry’s mom has gone through a series of tests, finding that her cancer has returned in several areas. We can only imagine what she is going through and it is killing us that we are not there to play a supportive role. On the other hand we realize how blessed we are that once we do get to her, after getting the boat squared away in New Zealand, we can stay indefinitely due to our lifestyle.

One day at a time, is all that any of us can do. Make it a good one, go out and put a smile on someone’s face, and look deep inside for your “inner flea”…I know it’s there! XO

PS: November 9, 0745 Update of the sailboat that rolled over. Another sail boat turned around and went back for them in high winds and high seas. They could only make 2 knots and where 30 miles away. They are standing by with the stricken vessel. A freighter was also asked to respond and arrived on scene at 2100hrs last night. As of this morning the seas where to high to safely remove the injured sailors from their vessel. So they will wait for the seas to calm down. A Warship is also responding and will arrive later tonight. They are all in our prayers.