03/15/2010, Cabo San Lucas, Mx
We've finally done it! We have finally cast our lines from the US and are heading south. To think we were shooting for the end of Oct. '09 and the Baja Ha-Ha. Ha!! Our first day at sea was pleasant enough for us, just a little rolly, which really gets to Ben and I quickly. Several hours in we got smart, broke down and took some Bonine. About 45 minutes later we were as good as new. So, as usual with a boat you usually summarize each day with whatever went wrong. So, why should we change now? After our good friends Renae, Dave, Kelly , and Aaron uncleated our lines yesterday from the Kona Kai Marina in San Diego, Larry quickly discovered one of our 125 gallon water tanks was empty. They both were full, but apparently when he back flushed the water maker the day before, it must pull water from the tank, not off the dock hose. Oops! Worse yet, when he started the water maker it wouldn't work. Sh__! We still had one full tank, so it wasn't like we were gonna die, but still...it's stressfull. SHARK! (I feel like one of the dogs from the movie "Up", when they would suddenly stop and yell "Squirrel!) By the way, if you haven't seen this movie...do. Yes, I just saw a shark leisurely swimming by our boat while I'm writing this. See, that is exactly why I'm not jumping in the water in the middle of the ocean just for fun! So, we sailed yesterday, life was good, had the genoa up, which is a really big sail. As we're passing Ensenada it's getting dark (of course) and the wind dies. Well we know we've got some weather coming at us later in the evening so we think it's a good idea to roller furl in the sail and motor through the night. Hmmm...sail won't roll in. It's 6 PM.... 3 hours and 20 minutes later we get it in. It was one of those times when you don't know if you should puke or crap or both. Larry worked and worked on it, thinking the furling system had wrapped around itself and gotten jammed up. Turned out somehow our spinnaker halyard wrapped itself around the top of the genoa, and every time we tried to roll it in, the halyard would wrap at the top and just bind the whole system up. It's just scary when these things happen, and you're tired and it's dark, and you're way out in the ocean, and you know the wind is picking up and let me say it again...this is a BIG SAIL. Lesson learned, don't ever forget to look up when things seem to be going wrong on deck. So, Thursday night was my first" night watch" ever. After the whole genoa fiasco I went to sleep from 10 PM to 2 AM (sort of), and then did watch from 2-6 AM. I was surprised how fast the first 2 hours went by. The third wasn't bad, but the fourth was brutal. It was hard to keep my eyes open. Now I know why the military uses sleep deprivation as a form of torture. That idea must have come from some old sailor! It is scary - in the pitch black - hearing the sound of the ocean. It's just a mental thing you have to get over. I keep thinking about the, not one, but two young girls that are sailing solo around the world right now. They definitely have a part of anatomy that I definitely don't have! Ben's been sleeping 12 hours straight through everything. He's sleeping in our bed while we're under way. It's hard for me to not feel like I'm going to roll out of bed, but not Ben. Even though you think everything is stowed, when a wave hits the boat a wrong way, things crash and glasses clank and my spice bottles fall over and it sounds terrible. All those sounds used to just freak poor Moe out, to the point where he would just be trembling. Yes, we had Moe euthanized two weeks ago. Like I had mentioned in one of my previous updates, we found a wonderful, compassionate, Christian veterinarian in San Diego who would come out to our boat. The end of Moe's life could not have been more comfortable and full of love. We must have kissed and held and hugged him a thousand times in his last few hours. As painful as it has been for us, because we selfishly miss him, there is also a feeling of relief. I think Moe would have tried to keep going for us because that's what he was supposed to do, despite his pain. Jessica has already received his ashes and will be bringing them when she visits us in April. So Moe will continue on our journey with us soon.
Let's continue on the details of our journey from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas. Friday was a lovely day sailing south, warm, quiet with no engine on. All three of us still taking Bonine. It really helps, but makes your mouth terribly dry and I just want to eat all the time! This is not good...at the rate we're making it around the world, I'm gonna be as big as a house! The day flew by, again knowing we were expecting 25-30 knot winds come evening, we put a double reef in the main before dark. I must say, Larry and I are working beautifully together. We think out loud the details of what we are going to do before we do them, and he really listens to me if I have different ideas or opinions. We do have jack lines to clip into for safety, but still my last words are always, "Just DON'T fall in!". Ben is great, and helps out where he safely can. He can steer the boat well when we are both on deck, futzing with the sails. Let me say again, the kid sleeps at least 12 hours straight, as we are traveling. This is a kid who never slept in the car, or an airplane, but put him in a vessel crashing through seas and howling wind, and he sleeps. For all you parents out there, six letters, BONINE. I will say no more. So, Friday night we tried 3 hour watches. Less excruciatingly long. Mine was from 11 PM - 2 AM. The wind and waves had really picked up so I did not sleep a wink from 8-11. When I went on watch I was miserably tired, I set the kitchen timer for 10 minutes, after I've scanned the black sky, checked that we're on the correct course on our chart plotter, checked the radar that there are no vessels or anything hard we might run into, and then I lay down on some seat cushions, wrapping a blanket around me as best I can, close my eyes and hold on for dear life so I don't roll off the bench. Agghhh...just like hitting the snooze on your alarm clock. Beep beep, up I get, doing the whole checking routine over again. When you feel a particularly large wave lifting the boat (sometimes wrongly called a rogue wave) you know there are a few more behind it, so I pray and pray and pray, please God calm the seas. I guess I've forgotten to mention that we have the autopilot on this whole time. It does a much better job at steering than us human kind ever could, except when there is an override, and then it shuts off. So, at about 1:45 AM, I notice a slight wind shift, more from directly behind us. Now we have a preventor on our main sail so we can't accidently gybe, which is a really bad thing to do. I change our course slightly so the wind is hitting the boat at a better angle and make a mental note again of our compass course knowing if it gets anymore rough the autopilot might shut off and I would have to grab the wheel. Knowing Larry would be up in 15 minutes I didn't want to alarm him. But, exactly what I feared happened. The autopilot sounds a God awful alarm when it overrides, I grab the wheel but feel completely discombobulated. The wind is howling, the seas are crashing, the boat is shuttering, the main sail is getting back winded, I start yelling for Larry and then pound on the little port window to our master berth. He runs up, all bleary eyed from a dead sleep and tries to get the boat under control. When it is completely black out it is impossible to see where the wind is coming from so I'm yelling at him where the wind is coming from and he is steering, trying to get the boat in a happy state. My legs were shaking so badly I could hardly control myself. And then Larry said what I feared most, "We have to drop the main.". This means going out on deck, and it's wet and slippery, and the boat is bucking like a bad mechanical bull ride. To make a long story short, we get done what we need to get done, and Larry hand steers through the night. Mind you, even though it is very cold out, he's peeling off his clothes because he's sweating so much because it is such a workout to do this. I lay down in the cockpit, close my eyes, hold on for dear life and pray, and pray, and pray. The sun rises on Saturday morning. I don't know if the sun in the beautiful blue sky automatically makes us feel better, or if it's just the euphoric fact that we survived the night, but we're pretty happy that we can pull into a safe anchorage in a few hours. We tuck in between the coast and Cedros Island and things calm down. Ben wakes up from his perfect 12 hour sleep, completely clueless to the previous night! He lets out his special fishing line that was a gift from his new "old" friend, Captain Dick, and what do you know, catches a 14" Skipjack Tuna! We spray the poor thing in the gills with vodka. (I believe it makes their death less painful?!) He is so beautiful, the stripes and colors. It makes me sad to kill him. Ben gets out his fillet knife and proceeds to fillet him, under his father's supervision of course. Yes, we have him for dinner that night, bones and all, and thank the Lord and the fish for feeding us. I still felt bad.
We pull into Turtle Bay around 3 PM, after 53 hours on the ocean, phew! All of a sudden, this panga is flying towards us, then another one! The first one that reaches us is Annabelle's Fuel, the price is right, and he lets us tie up to his mooring ball for the two nights we are here. We give a brand new soccer ball to the young boy working with him. Larry and I sleep 13 hours that night!
Let's see...Turtle Bay, in one of our books they call it "coyote ugly". But what the area doesn't have in looks, it has in heart, and we've met some very nice people here. When we woke up (finally) Sunday morning, another sail/racing boat had pulled in and were on the mooring ball next to us. Turns out they were in the San Diego/Puerto Vallarta race and were now returning home but had started taking on water. By the time they pulled in by us they said they had probably bailed 500 gallons of water overnight. Scary! They asked us if we had any emergency stuff to fix holes, which we did, only one container. Larry said he'd look for it and bring it over in a little while. He then turned to me and said, "This is our only bottle, do you mind?" Do unto others as you would want them to do to you. If I had a hole in my boat, I would hope and pray that someone who didn't , would give up their single jar of putty. So, that's what we did. Turns out they only needed a little of it and we got the rest back. We called a taxi and went ashore, a water taxi that is, another words, the fuel guy comes out and picks us up and ferries us ashore. There's his house , his wife Annabelle, get it (?), and the dogs, and a couple of kids. I wonder if they had the same conversation we did, "So honey, since you're letting me start my own fuel business/buy a sailboat, I should name it after you...Annabelles/Lisa Kay?" We wanted to walk into town, which really seemd to puzzle them. They wanted to drive us. But it feels sooooo good when your feet hit the ground after 3 days on a boat. You can feel the blood pumping through your limbs, and your heart beating, not from fear but because you're moving! We walked and walked on dusty roads, up hills, down hills, past old garbage dumps, (Ben had a great time picking up interesting rocks and shells) and what do we come across but a cemetery. But not a run of the mill cemetery. An individualized cemetery. Homemade crypts. Some were elaborate, some were not. Some were painted bright colors, some had special windows and doors. It was beautiful, perched up on this cliff, overlooking the ocean. To be born, live, and die in this small village called Turtle Bay. We talked with some parents, around our age, who were there visiting their deceased son. He had passed away several years ago, around the age of thirty. They were playing music from their van and it appeared they had placed some of their son's favorite things on his gravesite, one being a can of beer. Neither one of us spoke the others language, yet through hand jesters we communicated. Through smiles and hugs we communicated. It was a beautiful moment. We continued up the dusty path towards town, they drove by in their van, honked and waved. Oh, here come the Mexican dogs. The rescuer in me just wants to save every one of them, but I can't. But I can step in the first store I see to buy cookies! Some of them are so skinny and so miserable looking it breaks your heart. The others that belong to people are street smart and have impeccable manners. They are the coolest dogs. I wish I could just go around town applying Advantage on them! They're all just chewing away. Well, it's Sunday, looks like the internet café doesn't open back up 'til 4. It's 2'ish, hmmmm, beer sounds good. So, we sit at a little place on the beach, get some cokes, a Corona for mom. Some of the locals are hanging out with their kids, cool dogs everywhere, and I am mistaken for Jennifer Aniston....(I'll give you a moment until you get up off the floor)...okay...let me reiterate...this is a VERY small Mexican town in the middle of nowhere. We just kept hearing, "Brad Pitt's first wife?" It's amazing what a shower and a flat iron can do! We got hungry and found the one restaurant that kind of went with the one motel. Well, the owner/hostess/waitress/cook, was coloring her hair on a chair in the middle of the restaurant. (Yes, we were the only ones there) Now, I understand this sort of thing, and it's important! You do not mess with a woman in the middle of a color! We tell her, in hand jesters, to let her friend finish applying the color, no worries. There were many interesting pictures on the walls. Apparently there were turtles in Turtle Bay at one time (people ruin everything don't they?), and a visit from Poncho Villa. We soon had a wonderful meal of quesadillas, burritos, tacos, guacamole, and one more beer for mom. (Hey, the last few days have been rough!) Poor Ben's tummy has not felt too good ever since that meal. We can just imagine the conversation in town later on..."These three gringos came, walked everywhere, and the lady who looks like Jenn A. had TWO beers! By the way, our 2 cokes and 1 beer cost just $2.70! We were able to send out a few e-mails at the local, so called, internet café/pharmacy, and went back to our boat. Next stop Punta Abreojos, which means "open your eyes", due to the many hazards as you enter this anchorage. We pull in around 7:15 AM after a 16 ½ hour trip. Soooo tired, excruciating after these over nighters. Now a fishing panga comes by us and I wave, they swing by and I say, "Ballenas?" Yes, it is whales I am after! Punta Abreojos is the closest spot for us to be to Laguna San Ignacio, where the once, almost extinct, Gray whales give birth to their young, before they leave and head back up north to feed. It was made a biosphere reserve/world heritage site by the Mexican govt. in 1988. Then apparently the Japanese company Mitsubishi, along with the Mexican Federal govt. wanted to open a salt evaporation plant in the area. Thank goodness that was defeated. To experience something like this has been a 30 year dream for me, since I got my first job at Marine World, since I first learned of Greenpeace, since I bought my first "whale song" record. So, the fisherman calls someone on the radio and a few minutes later says, "7 AM tomorrow, someone will pick us up to take us to the whales! $135, supposedly. Cool! So, we do nothing all day, too rough in this anchorage to lower the dinghy. Bummer...it would feel so good to walk in to town. No cell service, no internet, we feel so disconnected. Our tv is working great though. We, or should I say Ben, can watch it anytime, because Larry had this fancy dome satellite thingy put on the back of the boat (for a mere 5K). It comes out of Puerto Rico - so all of the programs are 3 hours earlier and all of the commercials are in Spanish! We're up bright and early the next AM, so anxious to see the whales! We wait...and wait...8 AM....no one has come. I want to cry. Wait....I see a fishing panga flying in from out at sea. I wave and wave, they pull up perplexed, they don't speak one word of English. "Ballenas por favor?" I say. Again this guy, as we later learn is named Modesto, starts talking with people on the radio, and his cell phone. (Hey, no fair....his cell phone works) Well, his partner starts filleting their overnight catch: one halibut, one shark (it actually had a baby shark in it!) one ray, and one scorpion fish. They were still moving as he's cutting them and all the pelicans (so cool) and birds come to eat the remainders. Ben just thinks the whole scene is the greatest thing since chocolate cake. Finally, Modesto says, "Uno momento." and takes off. I am so hopeful! So, I start ransacking the boat, looking for different gifty things I've hidden away for occasions such as these. I come up with 4 Coronas. He comes back and says, "Okay, go see ballenas." We are so grateful and hand him the beer and he looks at us and says, "Agua?" So, we get that too. He tells us it will cost $150. Okay, so we're all standing there and he's not leaving and he motions for us to get on his boat. We're like, oh! Well, did we have the ride of our life, blood and gaff and billy club and dead scorpion fish and us, in this small wooden panga, flying in the sea to Laguna San Ignacio. It was so bumpy, I had to concentrate to not wet my pants! The ride there was at least an hour (it seemed), and suddenly we see these wierd waves breaking, but not really near any shore. We start to slow down and come to a stop. Now we get it, it's the entrance to this bay. We wait and wait, share our small lunch with Modesto. There is a boat coming! Now we know that only a hand full of people are allowed in each day for a few hours, only on boats operated by naturalists. Sure enough, we transferred to another panga and off we went into this whale wonderland. Unfortunately our "naturalist" didn't speak a word of English, and frankly wasn't even friendly, but we had a great time anyway. We shared our lunch with him too. (I don't think he cared for the ½ peanut butter and jelly sandwich!). You could not look in any direction and not see a whale! Then we would slowly motor over to that area and watch. Babies with their mommies! We would get wet from their exhale! And yes, there really is such a thing as whale breath! It smells really fishy. After several hours and lot's of ooohs and aahhs, he took us back to Modesto, who had been patiently waiting. (I hope he hadn't been drinking those beers, seeing as he still had to take us home!) We spoke with one other group in another panga that was watching the whales for the third day in a row. They were filming for a 3 part, one hour documentary each, called maybe, Oceans Giants. It is about dolphins and whales, and they have been filming all over the world. They said this was the best day they've had. Usually, I guess, the wind and waves are howling in the bay. We felt blessed once again, like so many other times in our lives. As soon as we got back to the Lisa Kay, we pulled up our anchor and took off to Magdalena Bay, our next planned stop on our way to Cabo. It would be a long night underway but we have to take advantage of the weather window we have. The next day on the ocean was glorious! No land or boat in sight, smooth seas, warm sun, we layed out on deck in our underwear! I'm so spoiled on our boat. I can shower, bake bread, vacuum, do laundry in our machine, all underway! Mag. Bay was quiet. We were the only ones there. Our feet had not hit land for four days so we jumped in the dinghy to walk on shore. It felt sooo good. We were seeing several fishing pangas with 2-3 men on each. One had even pulled along our side as we were pulling into the bay, holding up a battery. No problem, 2 AA's coming right up! They smiled their toothless grin and zoomed off. Now we know what we had been seeing in the water...giant squid! They were all over, sticking their beaks out of the water. The panga was full of them. I think these are the ones you hear about, pulling people under water to their death. For some odd reason they're all in the water around here this year. While walking on shore, near the old abandoned phosphorus factory, we came across the fisherman's camp.
It's hard to see the poor conditions they are existing in. Literally just some rags, a few tarps, a few pieces of plywood thrown up here and there to make some sort of a building. It's depressing to me. I've always felt like Larry and I have so much and it hurts my heart when I see people who appear to be struggling. But, who am I to think this? They may have a very rich and fulfilling life. Who am I to think they're not happy because they don't have the typical American A.D.D. (attention deficit disorder) life? Texting, e-mailing, cell phoning, tweeting, twittering, TV'ing, working, volunteering, computering, over-schedules life? Hmmmm.....We woke early the next morning to make way for Cabo San Lucas, 138 miles away. The pressure was, that we needed to round the horn, giving it a wide berth, as early after sunrise as possible because of the "cape effect" (lot's of wind and waves). And, we knew it would take at least 24hrs. to get there. I woke up kicking myself though, thinking why didn't I bake bread or make cookies for these fishermen last night? I wasn't thinking! Quick, I pull up the sofa seat, pull up the floor boards and pull out any extra food I can find. Pasta, marinara sauce, a huge chocolate bar, Girl Scout cookies, 4 cokes, 4 waters, and I can't remember what else...it all seemed so lame. We handed one of the panga's the bag as we were leaving. They looked very puzzled. They took the bag and zoomed away - never even looking inside it. I wonder if they thought we were handing them our garbage? Have you ever wondered if we do things in life, only to make ourselves feel better? Hmmmm...they had not bothered us or asked us for a thing. Who am I to think they wanted anything? And so the chatter goes on and on in my head (yes, you have a lot of time to do this when you are under way!). Blah, blah, blah. Oh, the trip to Cabo was loooong. We rolled side to side, up and down, for what seemed like an eternity. Winds were a perfect 12-15 knots, but the seas....ugh! Your body becomes so fatigued from just trying to stand up, sit up, lay down, and not fall over or off of wherever you are. By the next day I thought this must be what it feels like to have Parkinson's disease. Kind of like that uncontrollable shaking, jerking feeling in your body. I think it's because your muscles can't ever relax. We actually sailed half the time, as opposed to having the motor going. The quiet is so nice. I have everything nicely stowed now so we're not hearing the banging and crashing as we rock. Suddenly, in the middle of the day, we have a vessel directly behind us! About 3 miles out and coming up fast. Hmmm...we're sailing so WE have the right of way, he is the overtaking vessel so WE have the right of way, but he's not altering his course. 2 miles away, we start hailing him on the radio...no answer, 1 mile away, we're looking at him through our binoculars, ½ mile away, (you must be thinking, why doesn't Larry change his course?) well it's just not that easy with the wind and the waves. But, that's exactly what we do, and the moment we do it looks like he's turned also, so we turn back to our original course. Then it looks like he is heading straight towards us again. Oh, it's the swell that made him look like he turned. This is a big fishing boat, with all the tall things that hang off the sides and drag nets? We keep calling and calling him on the radio, no answer. That's it, we're high tailing it out of there. The boat passes by our port stern, no one at the helm, no sign of life anywhere, just black smoke pouring out of the top of this huge, old, rusty vessel. They would have run us over and never have known it. I try to read the name of the ship through the binoculars but the sea is so rough I can only make out a few letters. Next time we'll just take a picture with Larry's camera, then he can zoom in later. I'm really glad this happened during the day, not at night! I was still kind of shook up by this that night and felt really apprehensive about doing my night shift. I couldn't sleep at all before so this made it even harder. A full moon would be nice, because when there is no moon, it is black. I can see the white foam here and there from breaking waves around us, but that's it. The stars are incredible though! Just like an IMAX planetarium. Even though the radar is on, all set up with alarms within certain parameters, believe me, I keep looking behind me! Aaahhh...the sun rises again we're so close to Cabo....we're so excited! We've made it!
To be continued.....
01/20/2010, Puerto Salina, Mexico
Here we are, heading back up to San Diego. We have spent a little over two weeks in wonderful Mexico. Puerto Salina and Ensenada have been our destinations. We have shared time with old friends and made new friends as well. The people in Mexico couldn't be nicer, even if we couldn't understand each other sometimes! (Why in the world did I not take Spanish in highschool?!) It's amazing how far hand signals can get you!
So, we survived our first immigration check in, and our first drink of water from our water maker. (Let me tell you, that first sip is scary, but more on that later!). Raoul, from the Puerto Salina marina, was kind enough to come with us. Ensenada is about a thirty minute drive, along gorgeous coastline, south of Puerto Salina. There was much paper work to fill out (and I might add, none of it is in English!), and many different windows to go to, waiting in line each time. You would often have to go to window 1, then to window 2, then back to window 1, then to 3, then back to 1 etc...you catch my drift. And each time, they would have to re-enter all your information. Sometimes you just stand there while their doing something else (didn't look important) then eventually they look up, to help you. Of course you keep a smile on your face the entire time (who needs lunch and a potty break really anyway?!). Then at the end of all of this, you stand in line to push the "red light, green light". Phew...we got a green light! Lunch here we come! Raoul took us to a fish restaurant where his brother is the chef. And here it starts...Lisa having to politely eat something that is offered to me, all the while keeping a smile on my face. I think it was called something like Fishermans' Stew, or something like that. All I know is I could see the big pieces of octopus (suction cups and all) sticking out of an orange broth, and they told me it would make me "strong like bull"! (My father would have loved this). Thank God for beer! And lot's of lime (helps on everything!). Actually, our lunch ended up being delicious! Grilled white fish with lots of garlic, lemon and butter, salad and rice. (No we haven't been afraid to eat anything yet and have not gotten sick.) We have had more of the most wonderful guacamole the last couple of week s! Two days later, Renae, Dave, our new friend Heidi (an Aussie), Larry, Ben and I, all piled into our rental car (Dodge Charger), and raced out to the wine country (Valle de Guadelupe). Yes, it was tight (I won't even tell you where I sat), but...hey, it's Mexico...you can do things like that here. (God how did we ever survive growing up with no seatbelts or helmets!) It was the most amazing day! We tasted at two fabulous wineries. We were the only ones there. The second being the most fascinating. It is owned by three women, and is right at their house. There were several houses around on the hillside, all eclectic and artsy (a la Beth and Laurie from Niles sort of cool). The grounds were beautiful and emmaculate, huge boulders sprinkled off in the distance that had to have been put there from another time (reminded us of The Baths in the BVI's). The lady of the house was not feeling well but there was a gentleman there (an artist who was firing his tiles in the kiln for a huge wall he has been commissioned to do for Ensenada). His name was Eduardo, but his artist name is Luna. We went into this cool little cave for our tasting, also tasting their homemade olive oil. They also made a sort of healing tea from olive leaves, oregano, and lemon (Tammy F., I thought of you!), but they were out of this. Not only did we purchase wine (of course), we also purchased two beautiful plates (Ben buying one of them with his own money, a fish plate to serve all of his "catch" on!). Then we got a tour of Eduardo's workshop, and he demonstrated making for us one of the tiles,( out of the 885 he has to make) for this wall in Ensenada. It was incredible, and the best part of all (for Ben), was he was given a nice ball of clay to shape and play with. Now there was an alterior motive on Ben's part, because he found out somewhere that you can build a bomb out of clay and batteries and something else. (He's become obsessed with guns and explosives!) Don't worry...we're watching him closely! After that, we went to lunch at a beautiful restaurant called Laja. It was like being at the best of the best restaurant in Napa, but we were the only ones there. The food was spectacular, (Brian you would have loved it!), Ben had two servings of foie gras ravioli, (I begged forgiveness from PETA). And then we went home, sober (at least Larry was) and stuffed. To top the day off, once arriving back at our boats, we jumped in our dinghy's for a mile or two ride out to watch the dolphins feed, and the beautiful Baja sunset. Yes, this was one of those days that you are reminded of why you are cruising. The highs are extremely high, the lows extremely low. I have come to figure out, that cruising is hugely bi-polar. Needless to say, we didn't see dolphins that day, but have every time since. They are the most adorable creatures. Once again I'll say, how could anyone in their right mind intentionally hurt them? It is so cool, racing in our dinghy, and them swimming along side, or crisscrossing in front, leaping out in the air every once in a while, splashing you! They turn on their sides looking at you, smiling. They are so close I am literally inches from touching them. Sometimes we just sit quietly watching them all work together swimming in circles, making the fish all ball up and head towards the surface, all the while the dolphins feasting and the birds getting a free meal as well. At times like these, I could not imagine a better way of raising our nine year old son. Speaking of which, I had the brilliant idea of hiring Heidi to be Ben's tutor whilst we were parked at Puerto Salina. She has a degree in marine biology and comes from a family of teachers, and she is excellent with Ben (I think she is his first true crush!). His time with her has been invaluable, and they did cool things like pick out a huge piece of kelp from the ocean to study. So needless to say, I'm sorry that we left, earlier than expected to get up to San Diego to beat the bad weather that is coming. (Yes our whole life is about weather now!)
So, back to the water thing. We quickly learned that we could not drink the water coming out of the hose at the dock in our marina, (I can't even quite describe the color!). Our very nice neighbor (Jackie) had a car, and offered to drive us to a Home Depot in Rosarito to get a filter to put on the hose. ( I'd like to add, everything is about double the price here, which makes me feel very sad for the people. ) Needless to say, the (expensive) filter did not do the job, so Larry fired up our water maker. We only ran it when the tide was coming in, and seeing as we were the first boat in the marina as you come in, the water should be clean(ish). Just knowing what is in our ocean waters, and knowing it's desalinated just makes you want to gag a little when you first drink it! So, this worked out great for about three days until our water maker stopped working. Uh-oh. (Now we're a little more prepared with some huge jugs of fresh water tied down on deck!) Poor Larry worked on it for two days with no luck. So, we walked four miles round trip to that little mini market to buy water. I tried to not panic on the outside, but I have to admit I was a little worried. Being so fat and happy in safe Fremont, water was just never anything I really worried about . On a brighter note, we made a last minute decision to take the boat to Ensenada, because about thirty of our very best friends from Crossroads Church were coming in on a cruise ship. (Yeah! Fresh water to fill our tanks!) It was so great to see all of them and have them bless the S/V Lisa Kay. Ever since, we have felt a sort of rejuvenation. The past six months have been harder than either one of us could have imagined, but already we are finding strength that we never knew we had. I'm excited as I look ahead now...to the possibilities.
12/29/2009, Puerto Salina, Mexico
Dec. 29, 2009
Enough with the balloons!!! In our very limited amount of time on the ocean, we have seen more balloons floating on top of the water! Regular ones, mylar ones, all tied up with their cute ribbon. This cannot be good. Not to mention if we wrapped one around our propeller... it could stop? I don't know, but that's the kind of stuff that scares me.
So...yes, I'm back. It's been a long time since I've written anything. It's been a combo of, lack of time/depression/frustration, oh and did I mention lack of time? Everything on a boat is hard. EVERYTHING on a boat takes triple the time. And, might I add, everything on a boat is expensive. We have spent double what we had allotted, to bring the boat up to speed for living purposes and blue water sailing. More about that, to follow later. I admit I'm spoiled. New upholstery, new countertops, new window coverings, new washer/dryer and oven. The sad thing is, not one of those things makes me happy. We're more comfortable, for sure, but with everything else that goes wrong it's like you are punched in the stomach three times a day. All the boat owners just look at us with a blank expression and say, "It's a boat." Most of our family and friends think we are nuts and cannot even fathom why we are doing this! I have to say, over the last six months I don't think Larry or I have questioned what or why we are doing this. I do think, though, we look at each other quite often, silently thinking to ourselves, "I had no idea this would be quite this hard!" Of course I blame Larry. He should have known! (Yes, I'm writing this with a half smile on my face!) I do wish he was a better communicator. I have never been more lonely in my entire life, even though Larry, Ben, Moe and I are all rarely more than a few feet apart. We've had a few friends come to visit, which has been such a blessing. And we have made a few new boat friends, that I'm sure will be lifelong. So, here we are, traveling from San Diego into Mexico. Our destination is Puerto Salina, just a little bit north of Ensenada. Should take us approximately six hours. We are motor sailing, (engine on, main sail up) cruising along at about eight knots. It is a pleasant ride today. Moe is happy and conked out on his bed in the cockpit. If we were in a car he would be freaking out. Moe is definitely showing his age. He also has been suffering from an antibiotic resistant staph infection, which he contracted after falling in the water in Ventura. Lovely, huh? We had a veterinarian who specializes in hospice and euthanasia come to the boat in San Diego for a consultation. We just want to make sure we are doing what is right for him, and are a little leary about getting competent veterinary care in Mexico. So, we are just taking it one day at a time, and are enjoying every minute with him.
Jan. 3, 2010
Happy New Year, or as we have now learned, Felix Ano Nuevo! We made it into Puerto Salina. Was very scary at the end. It's not always easy going into new marinas. You have no idea what the entrance is like, where you are going etc.... Our chart plotter got us close, and we could see the little green light flashing near the entrance, once every five seconds. Our mistake was, that we were late in leaving San Diego, therefore it was starting to get dark. The entrance had big rocks piled on either side, very symmetrical, (surely that must be it!) and we could see masts beyond, off to the left. The entrance was narrow though and the waves were crashing, but not quite all the way across the entrance. (Ha-ha!)
img src="/member//lisakay/images/the_smooth_entry_to_puerto_salinaa_scale.jpg" class="blogImg"
We went for it, and then once we entered it was like we were in this narrow slough that dead ended! Phew, to our amazement there was an opening on the left and we pulled into this tiny marina! Just in the knick of time before we lost all light! It's beautiful here, in a Mexico sort of cricket chirping, warm dry air sort of way. There are gorgeous mansions on the hill right by us, and high rise apartments that are half built and then just stopped, and really nice army men walking around with machine guns. According to everyone here, we are in the safest part of Mexico, right here in this marina. There are twenty army guys, and I think they are on a thirty day rotation. They all live in a small tent like structure on the dirt overlooking the entrance to the marina. They patrol all day and all night. I keep asking Larry, what are they looking for? At least there are toilets for them here, and I guess they have access to the showers, but other than that, they have nothing. We made pumpkin bread for them yesterday. We are completely isolated here. No cell phones, no internet, no TV. There are hardly any people around, no grocery store (apparently there is a place we can get some canned goods if we walk two miles up the road), and of course no restaurants. There is a cantina overlooking the beach, which actually does serve delicious food despite the buildings dilapidated (by American standards) appearance. Not to mention the innumerable dogs running around inside. The staff is as nice as can be, and work very hard. The place is filled with older, drinking and smoking Americans. The good news is, they have free Wii Fii! And yes, we were able to make our computer work there yesterday!
Our friends, Dave and Renae are here, two slips down. We were neighbors in the marina in Ventura, and again in San Diego. We just really love them. The familiarity with them is a huge comfort to us. They are on a beautiful 53 foot Selene, motor vessel. They took us to La Fonda, a restaurant a few miles up the road by taxi, for New Years Eve dinner. This is where Dave and Renae spent part of their honeymoon, thirty four years ago! I had the most delicious lobster! Very fun evening!
So, let's back up here a bit. I bet you're wondering how we got from Ventura to San Diego? Let me tell you it was quite a trip. We did it in one straight shot. Took around 22 hours. We knew we were trying to outrun a storm, but for the last five hours the storm outran us. At 4 AM, after Ben, Larry and I had been enjoying a magical evening of motor sailing under the stars, it went from 12 knots of wind to about 30 knots in about two minutes, pelting rain and angry seas. Fortunately we were not alone and had the sweetest, kindest man, Jon Jenks along with us as our teacher/helper. He and his family sailed to and lived in Japan as missionaries. He is very experienced, and his presence kept us calm. The waves over powered the auto pilot, so the men had to hand steer the remaining five hours, which is no easy feat. Ben and I basically succumbed to seasickness and retreated downstairs. Ugh! Apparently, when we came around Point Loma there were winds clocked at 60 knots and waves 14-18 feet high. I will say...our boat loved this! It felt like we were flying! We were so happy to pull into our slip at Kona Kai marina. Exhausted and exhilarated!
Now, you don't think I'm going to let you read this without some of my potty talk, do you?! Well, during the trip to San Diego, Larry thought he was able to macerate (the little pump that grinds up our discharge and pumps it overboard) our holding tank. Yes folks, this is what happens in the oceans. Mind you, we have pumped out every 4-5 days (at a pump out station) faithfully since the purchase of our boat in July, with the exception of that one time in the beginning by Rusty Buckets (remember...$30 for 30 gallons?). So, it was a treat to pull into a marina and not have to worry about it for a few days. But nooooo...the next day when the toilet was flushed you could smell it. Uh-oh, we're full!! Well, Larry is running off in a cab to Kaiser to get his wrist x-rayed thinking he may have fractured it the week before after a fall from the mast (you should have seen his head too!) Anyway, so I thought I would treat ourselves and see if we couldn't hire someone to come and pump us out. No problem, just hail Pepe La Poo on channel 16! Lo and behold he shows up but seems to have a problem getting suction. (Isn't this lovely ladies?) A few minutes later he says he is finished, $35.00 for our 30 gallons. Well, a couple of hours later our toilets won't stop running, hmmmm, Larry pulls up the floorboard over our holding tank and the tank is bulging! Literally leaking out raw sewage! Merry Christmas! No one is working over the holidays! This about did me in. What more could possibly go wrong with this boat?! We were very blessed, and found a wonderful man who came out Dec. 26 and got straight to work. All new pipes and fittings etc...I have no shame any more after having these guys come on our boat having to do what they had to do. I can't even begin to describe the smell. I just kept saying to him, "Thank God for people like you!" Now that we're here in Mexico, they'll come to our boat and pump us out for $3.00! I wonder where they take it afterwards?
We're off to Ensenada tomorrow to officially check in to the country. We are still working on Ben to keep his mouth shut, another words don't speak unless spoken to! I guess we'll be back to homeschooling tomorrow too. Which I might add, we love! Ben is doing just great! He also has become quite the surfer and had a wonderful instructor, Jeff Belzer, in Ventura. He usually surfed three times a week. This experience has been life changing for him. I can positively say, Ben is addicted to water. He even earned $12.50 today cleaning dinghies and boats in the harbor, wearing his new snorkel and mask from Santa!
Happy New Year to our family and friends! We miss you! We miss our old life...but we're forging ahead...because we have to...otherwise we wouldn't really be living, right?
09/15/2009, Ventura, Ca
Awwww...the joys of boat ownership! We are quickly learning that anything that can go wrong...will go wrong! Mind you, we still have it pretty good, but this is a real stretch for me. I keep thinking...God has something big he is trying to teach me, so I'm trying to go with it. The problem is...there is no place TO GO WITH IT! A few times yesterday I tried to go for a walk, 406 steps to the bathroom, or 392 to the laundry facilities here at the marina, just to cool off a bit... cry... whine to myself etc...BUT NOOOO! There are friendly people EVERYWHERE! Making the "trying to maintain a low profile" thing really hard. They'll invite me over to their boat, or they have a really cute dog that is licking me, or they're telling me what a beautiful boat we have, and I JUST WANT TO PUNCH THEM! But I can't... because they are all so dang nice. AND HELPFUL! Boaters will stop whatever they are doing to help you. So, yes, I stopped and helped a nice gentleman carry his new, leaking dinghy up the dock ramp, so he could return it. He kept saying, "Are you sure you can do this?" I reassured him that I was stronger than I looked, when in reality I was so angry at the time I could have moved a mountain! I believe we are now life long friends. He has even offered to crew for us on the Baha Ha-Ha. (More on that another time.) Soooo, after a completely disastrous day, with workers on the boat since 8:30 AM, Rudy, my new friend, shows up with a glass of wine and his grandchild, a perfect age for Ben, and we all talk for hours. Ben and Austin became instant friends, enjoying dinner together and then trying to catch crabs with these little hooks they would tie on their fishing line, and bits of mussel that they would peel off the dock, and stomp on to get the meat as their bait. Needless to say, the crab won every time. So, that's how it is here. You have visitors off and on all the time. Whether you have just had a marital discussion (Ha!)...or haven't brushed your teeth, or done the dishes, or put on your makeup... it's just the way it is. God is trying to get me to lighten up, huh?!
So, let me back up here, and catch you up on our glorious past week. Last weekend was Pirate Days at Ventura Harbor. Ben was soooo into it! He dressed up each day, and we would watch the tall ship pull in with faux dead prisoners tied up on a line, shooting their canons along the way. It was very exciting. (As one neighbor put it, "Didn't you notice...we live on Main Street in Disneyland!") We rode the dinghy over and enjoyed all of the festivities. I saw more Jack Sparrows (why is he so sexy?), and yes Larry thoroughly enjoyed the winches too! Ben had a week long sailing class at the Ventura Yacht Club. He had the best time and it was so cute to stand on the back of our boat and watch him sail by in his little Laser and wave. His last day he capsized right in front of us, struggling, he flipped the boat back over (screaming the whole time about how cold it was) then says, "Oh snap, now I have to bail!". The instructor motors over, throws him a bucket and tells him to get started. Excellent life lesson there I'm sure. So, with Ben being gone from 9 - 4:30 each day, Larry and I thought we would get so much done, (or at least...ya know!) But, noooo! Larry got this urge to start to try things, such as the washer/dryer machine. BIG MISTAKE! We got so excited because at first it looked so good. We couldn't believe this piece of crap looking thing actually worked...but then... it didn't drain. Hmmmm...so over the next 24 hours it slowly drained in our engine room. Okay, so we have a little water mess, no biggy. Now all the men here LOVE this. They can spend hours with Larry trouble shooting (or shooting something, I don't know)...but as they do this they find other leaks. And they try other things, and then I yell to Larry, "Hey...did you just turn something on?" He runs down, and finds the relief valve on the hot water heater has blown, frying the electronics on it. It was quite impressive, and hot and steamy too! (I thought we had truly landed in Hell!) In the meantime, in pulling up the floor boards over one of our water tanks, our fears came true that we have a leak in one of our holding tanks. That's kind of a big deal. Now Larry, in his good naturedness, just keeps saying, "It ain't cancer." I just keep asking him..."Are ya livin the dream baby?" (I think I'd better stop saying that because he's gonna hit me one of these times!) Needless to say, we now have a new, beautiful hot water heater that works! A whole12 gallons, woo hoo! (Can't wait to see the plumbers bill.) Everyone says, what costs $100.00 on a house, costs $1000.00 on a boat. So, we are pretty bruised and beat up this weekend (they call them "boat bites"), and feel like we still have not accomplished anything towards our goal of leaving the end of October, (we haven't even sailed this dang vessel yet!) but we'll either make it or not. It's the journey right?
Ahoy matey...'til next time!
Faith is the confidence that what we hope for will actually happen; it gives us assurance about things we cannot see. Hebrews 11:1
09/09/2009, Ventura, Ca
FYI, it is exactly 406 steps to the bathroom, 812 round trip. Great weight loss strategy. Mind you, this doesn't include if you make another trip to shower, or walk the dog. And add on all the additional steps during the dog walk so he can relieve himself once he has walked the 400 or so steps! I am becoming much more particular as to how and what I shop for, because your car is out in the parking lot, which doesn't even start until you have taken your 406 steps to get to the lot. Humping groceries and laundry can be a whole day's work. I had forgotten the joys of a public launderette. Yesterday we found a rooster. No, not in the lauderette, he was running around outside of Starbucks. Now I normally would pick up any animal I found, however, I didn't think Larry would be too happy if I brought a rooster on the boat. Especially since we are in a marina as live aboards, which we're not supposed to be, and if we were, only two people are supposed to be on the boat and no pets! Hence, the low profile we are trying to maintain. Yesterday I slipped and fell into the metal rod of a life line. Needless to say, I have a painful contusion on my side/back. This was all just trying to get a box on board. I can't even keep my laundry baskets because I have to turn them sideways to get them through the doors which kind of makes it pointless to do laundry, if you know what I mean, because all the clean clothes fall on the dirty floor. People...never take for granted again...a toilet... endless running water...or a garage...or a driveway...walking ten steps and being in your home...to your washer and dryer...or not sleeping in a washing machine (that's what our bedroom sounds like down below)...oh I could go on and on... I promise pictures are coming soon!
Love to you all!
07/13/2009, Ventura, Ca
Date: Monday, July 13, 2009, 9:51 AM
Welcome to my blog of my experiences on the Lisa Kay. The opinions expressed are solely mine. Believe me, Ben and Larry have a whole 'nother set of 'em, I'm sure! Including some about me! Forgive me if you have already read the first two updates, as I did use a few people as my guinea pigs! Please, always read my writing with a twinkle in your eye, spirit in your heart, and LOT'S of inflection in your voice/mind. Another words... laugh. I'll let you know when you should be crying. Here goes...enjoy!
We are alive and well and have been living on the boat for exactly one week now! So, you know I'm not much of a camper...and this is very much like glorified camping. It takes us hours to do things that normally would take one. Partly, because it's hard for more than one person to move around on a boat at the same time because, believe it or not, a 55' sailboat is still VERY SMALL! If we use the two heads (toilets) on this boat, they fill up in about four days. Which means you either have to call Rusty Scupper's, this really cool lady who's probably 60 something, to come and pump you out, (mind you thirty gallons costs $30.00!) or you can drive your boat down to the pump out station and do it yourself for free. Now, every time you move a boat in a big beautiful harbor like this, with literally multi-million dollar boats, fishing vessels, kayakers, peddle boaters etc... you about have a heart attack, worried that you are going to hit something! Let's just say my prayer life has gone up dramatically! So has planning when and where I am going to go to the bathroom. Otherwise, we can walk about a 1/4 mile up off our dock and use the facilities here. That's where we shower as well, hence the camping feel. Now, remember, we also have an 80 lb dog on board. We literally have to lift him on and off the vessel as well as up and down the stairs. So, we have to plan his potty breaks too! We had our first new friends for dinner last night, Debora and Lawrence. They have been so nice to us since we came. Their boat is exactly like ours, and they are just a few slips down. Have you ever cooked a meal in a kitchen 2 feet wide and 4 feet long, with propane stove and really only one burner that works, no bowls, colander, paring knife etc... (because not all of my stuff is unpacked from storage yet because you can only take about one box out a day because you have to walk it 1/4 mile to the boat and then when you bring it on board you have to magically find a place for everything in spaces that just don't exist?!). CAMPING! All in all, things are good. Ben is having the time of his life despite no TV, or W ii, or friends. He has learned to boogie board and fish. Even though we are in practically a retirement community here, because that is who normally can afford boats like this, (oh yeah, I forget Larry is retired!) they are learning to like Ben and think he is a pretty cool kid. Don't get me wrong, the view is gorgeous, the birds and fish and seals spectacular, just is gonna take some time getting used to! Started going to a friends' (Freddy's) childhood church in Ojai. What a welcome relief to find a place we can go and feel accepted and loved and supported while we are here in Ventura. God is always so good, in so many ways. We think of you all often and miss you very much! We have Ben signed up for sailing classes starting next week. He is really looking forward to them.