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Sailing with the Andersons
The Pearls of Panama
Lisa Anderson
02/02/2012, Panama City & Las Perlas Islands

Panama City Night Lights
Dec. 2011 - Jan. 2012

The Pearls of Panama
Wow. After traveling for a month by ourselves, seeing very few people and then suddenly being in Panama City, all we thought initially was wow! The shock of being around so many people, cars, traffic jams, noise, was somewhat overwhelming. We tied up to a mooring ball (this was no easy task due to the tight space and the speed of the current) almost directly under the Bridge of Americas, which essentially is the entrance to the Panama Canal. Huge, and I mean GInormous container ships and cruise ships and tug boats and pilot boats are zipping by. It really is a sight to be seen, and felt, as our boat would rock back and forth from the wakes of these ships. We radio for a water taxi to pick us up to get to land because there is no place for us to land our dinghy. We walk up to the Balboa Yacht Club office to check in and they are just so casual. Now let me explain, when you first enter a new country you always feel a bit of apprehension until you are officially checked in. We have already been in Panamanian waters for several weeks and are anxious to be legal. First off, the nice lady in the office asks us how long we are staying..."We're not sure," we say. No problem, pay before you leave, just not on a Saturday or Sunday because she's not there. Huh? We explain we still need to officially check in to the country. She says, "Huh?" It was like no one had ever asked her where to go. Someone else finally is able to explain to us to walk up the ramp and look for immigration, near the laundry room. The very business- like woman in immigration, who spoke only Spanish, and whose office was literally the broom closet, looked at us like I was crazy when I tried to explain in my poor Spanish that we needed to check in. After a few words, she stamped our passports and said, "Adios". Hmmm....we chuckled to ourselves and said, "That was easy enough." We excitedly walked to the yacht club restaurant for a meal and INTERNET! We had been out of touch with the world for what seemed like forever. And, that was the beginning of one bad meal after another here in Panama. Bummer, because I was so looking forward to some great meals, but I'm starting to lose hope. And worse yet, not only is the food bad, the service is deplorable. I don't know how to explain it, but you feel bad even asking for a glass of water. It's like you're putting them out if you order something. It's the strangest thing. A waiter will never ask you if you would like another drink or dessert. I'm not sure if this happens when the tip is automatically included, or if it's just the attitude of the people. Sigh....

The next morning we head off to the Port Captains office, catching a ride from a very nice ex-pat who had been living in Panama for ten years. We are all dressed up, which now means Larry is in long pants and a shirt with a collar, me in something other than a tank top, and Ben in a collared shirt. And all of us in shoes other than flip flops. This has all brought on a huge protest by Ben, but we have read in our books and been warned by other sailors about how proper this country is. The Port Captain couldn't have been nicer, even driving Larry to an ATM machine to get cash to pay for our entry fees. While I waited the secretary downloaded a load of Spanish Christian music on our memory stick because I had noticed she had her bible at her desk and asked what chapter she was reading. I have to say, as I am writing this at a later date, we have met some of the nicest people in Panama. My other observation is that I no longer feel like a tourist here, nor do I feel like we stick out like a sore thumb. It is just much more international here. I almost jumped over the counter and hugged the first Chinese person I saw, making me feel like I was back in the Bay Area. However not as many people speak English, or they don't let on that they do, which can make it a little more challenging when you're trying to get things done. It's totally my own fault. I should have this language down pat by now. Another sigh....

Anyways, now that we are all checked in and legally here, or so we think (more on this later), we jump right into reunions with old friends and a slurry of social activities. Once again, and I know I've said this before, but I feel like a child on Christmas morning when we meet up with our long lost boating friends! Dave and Renae on Bella with their new puppy Maggie, and Rick and Karen on Eyes of the World have been in Panama City for quite some time and we are so excited to have caught up with them! We share laughs and tears, joy and frustration, many meals (and lots of wine!), and just plain old good conversation, with an understanding of each other and what this lifestyle is like. And, they all love Ben, which warms Larry's and my heart.

We are also now suddenly thrust into the Christmas rush. Panama City has several very large malls and by the amount of people in them there is definitely no recession here. It can take what seems like an eternity to drive downtown in a taxi, and I need to add that these are the most aggressive drivers I have ever seen. If we don't get our act together, and catch a cab before 1 PM, they just simply will refuse to take us downtown. The infrastructure here has not kept up with the population boom, but as I write I believe an underground subway is being built. The Panama City skyline is a sight to be seen. Massive high rises are built, or are in the process of being built everywhere. And what is strange, which took me a few evenings to figure out, is that at night only about a third of the windows are lit up. You would think it would just be spectacular at night, but it sort of disappoints. In other words, a lot of the buildings are empty. So, I guess that level of the economy has yet to catch up. How is the grocery shopping you ask? Well, I am a happy camper here. I can find almost everything I want, and for much more reasonable prices.

December 23rd we excitedly picked up our daughter and boyfriend Seth at the airport for eight days of Christmas fun! While we were still in the big city we did a complete tour of the highlights in one day, including a hike in the Metropolitan Park - seeing sloths and many other kinds of animals, a visit to the old ruins of Panama Viejo which had been burned down by Captain Morgan and his pirates in 1671, the Miraflores Locks including a wonderful lunch at the restaurant that overlooks the ships as they pass through, then wandering around Casco Viejo which the pirates developed and settled in to have a better view of the bay and potential invaders. There is so much history here and it really was a fascinating tour. The town squares and statues, the cathedrals, the narrow streets and some of the newly renovated buildings are charming and make your imagination run wild with what this area must have been like in its time. For Christmas Eve dinner, we went back to the Casco Viejo area and ate at the restaurant Las Bovedas, which was an actual dungeon hundreds of years ago. After barely making it back to the boat in a taxi, yes I am convinced we will probably die in one someday, we all fell in to bed exhausted...except Ben...who was so excited for Santa to come he could hardly sleep. At 4 AM I was rudely awakened by big feet pattering on the deck, then Ben rushed into our cabin claiming Santa had left a note for him telling him to look up on deck for something too large to fit below. Yes, Santa brought Ben a 15 horsepower engine for the dinghy! No gift has ever delighted our child more! We can now zip around anchorages, pull away from shore quickly if needed in breaking waves, and skurf behind our dinghy - which is like water skiing only you are being pulled on a surfboard. Super fun!

Christmas day we head out to the Las Perlas Islands for a week of fun in the sun! These islands are gorgeous, with white sandy beaches, crystal clear turquoise waters, the best snorkeling as of yet. This is what all of us cruisers have been searching for since we left the west coast of the United States. Ahhh..."Finally!" we all say, giving each other an understanding nod. Bella is here as well, and we are also delighted to hook up with our old (young) friends, Carl and Cristina on Bamboleiro, whom Ben has really developed a strong friendship with. (You can read about Bamboleiro's adventures by clicking on their link on the right side of our blog.) We spend our days looking at colorful fish, swimming, kayaking, working on our tans, seashell and sea glass hunting, skurfing, and of course eating and drinking. Ben has made it his personal mission to feed us all by spear fishing. A spear gun is what he decided to spend his Christmas money on from his grandmother, and I have to say he is a good shot. Carl and Ben are quite the team, always coming back with fresh fish and usually some oysters to throw on the grill.
Watch this video of Ben fishing offshore!

Jessica and Seth had a vacation of a lifetime and we were so delighted to spend the holidays with them. Sadly we bid adieu on December 31st, looking forward to the promise of another visit in an exotic location. Ben, Larry, and I, exhausted from all the fun, spent a quiet New Years Eve on the Lisa Kay. Watching the magical fireworks fall over the Panamanian skyline we each thought to ourselves...what will the new year bring... what amazing people will we meet...what adventures lie ahead of us as we set sail again to new and exotic lands? To quote a saying from the John F. Kennedy, "We have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears. We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea - whether it is to sail or to watch it - we are going back from whence we came."

Happy New Year family and friends! We wish you happiness, good health, and prosperity in all things important!

Pictures for the blog are in the gallery "Pearls of Panama"

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Goodbye Costa Rica
Lisa Anderson
11/20/2011, Golfito, Costa Rica

Monkey in Manuel Antonio Park
November 20, 2011

Goodbye Costa Rica
Suenos to Quepos was a quick, six hour, uncomfortable run, which made it seem much longer. Motoring in a steep swell, on our beam, never makes for a comfortable ride. The boat rocks back and forth, beam to beam, and every dish, glass, can, pan, bottle, and toiletry is tossed within its' compartment making a loud crashing noise. But, as awful as it sounds it doesn't create the anxiety it used to with us because we know what's going on and we're not afraid. I have complete trust in the "sea worthiness" of our vessel, but what I don't trust are long liner fishing boats!

We are 12-14 miles off shore, and there are these thin sticks sticking up in the water now and then, with a small black triangle hanging sideways simulating a flag. Sometimes we get excited when we see one with two black flags ..."Does that mean it's the end of the line?" But I'm talking tiny, people! You could so easily miss this tiny black dot in the ocean and not realize that you're running into a trap, miles and miles of fishing line, an inch or so under the surface, that has fishing hooks hanging off of it to try and catch fish...or birds...or turtles...or sharks? These hooks are very indiscriminant. We try, we stand on deck, we look through our binoculars, trying to figure out the web they have spun and which way we can go without getting caught up and wrapping one around our prop, therefore making us a sitting duck. We stop the boat, we back up, we turn left or right, we proceed with great caution. But all of this leaves us with a very sour feeling in our stomach. This is ridiculous. Who has the right to do this? I'm not talking 40 or 50 feet, I'm talking miles. And they're out here at night too, in the pitch black. I'm really, really tired of this. It just seems like the water around Costa Rica is dead. We have not seen a dolphin, whale, or turtle, nor has Ben caught a fish. It's kind of eerie. We know that Costa Rica has sold out to the Chinese and is allowing them to rape and pillage off their shores, so is this what the locals are having to resort to get something to eat? (Please read Ben's article on shark finning for more on this subject)

We pulled into the new, sort of completed marina in Quepos and paid for two nights, almost $400. Even though it is nothing to write home about the staff was really nice. It is just nice to be tied up to a dock sometimes and stop the motion of the ocean, if you know what I mean. We were super excited to do a tour of the Manuel Antonio National Park and it did not disappoint. Hiking around felt really good on our sea locked legs, and the animals were everywhere. Ironically, we actually saw the most animals in the busiest areas of the park where the most people were. Monkeys, sloths, raccoons, pesoti's, and deer. The monkeys and raccoons were stealing peoples backpacks as they rested on one of the many beautiful beaches, people were hand feeding them, it was kind of sad. It did not seem natural at all and we wondered, where are the park officials and why is no one monitoring this? I have to say it was kind of weird.

We pulled out the next morning at 0600 heading for a safe anchorage called Drakes Bay for the night, as we continue to work our way to Panama. We are trying to only travel during the day so we have better visibility for those, "you knows". Then on to Golfito, our last stop in Costa Rica.

More long liners, more stopping in the middle of the ocean, exasperated. This time we were traveling around 3-4 miles off the coast thinking we might avoid them. Nope. Only this time we were determined to just take our boat hook, pull the line up and cut it with a knife. However, this time we could always see a panga off in the distance, and we would just aim our boat at them (probably scaring them to death!) getting as close as we could and raise our arms as if asking the question,"Where should we go?" They would nicely guide us, or point us in a safe direction. I still felt like my blood was boiling.

Golfito is our last stop in CR. This is where we will officially check out of the country and get our International Zarpe. It's kind of a cool stop. VERY wet. We made several hikes up into the rainforest, seeing titi's, apparently the smallest monkey in CR, and toucans! Very cool. And, something I had been dreaming about for a long time, a tour of the Osa Wildlife Sanctuary by Carol who runs the center. We were picked up in a panga and driven around the peninsula for about 45 minutes to this stunningly beautiful little bay where she lives and nurtures various wildlife that is brought to her. These animals have either been injured in some way and hopefully rehabilitated and released, or have been confiscated from people who have kept them illegally therefore rarely being able to be released due to the emotional trauma that often accompanies the captivity. We loved every minute of our tour and instantly connected with Carol. Kudos to you Carol, for devoting your life to these animals in need. You are awesome!

Bruce, the owner of Banana Bay Marina where we anchored in front of, was so helpful and nice. We really appreciated him. Check out was a breeze, and we were on our way at 0415 the next the pitch black...rain...fog...with Larry standing on the bow with a flashlight, giving me direction on where to go through our headsets, as I steer blind. One way or another, we come!

For pictures go to "Goodbye Costa Rica" in gallery

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Los Suenos: The Dreams
Lisa Anderson
11/08/2011, Bahia Herradura, Costa Rica

National Geographic M/V Sea Lion in Los Suenos
November 8, 2011

Los Suenos, The Dreams
We have "dreamed" of coming to Los Suenos for 15 months, that is since we met Zephyr! Zephyr happened to be one of Ben's instructor's when he took sailing lessons at the Puerto Vallarta Yacht Club last summer and we instantly fell in love with her. She ended up living with us for a week, as the summer camp finished, filling in as our surrogate daughter as we miss our own Jessica so much. Since Zephyr (I just love saying her name!) is from the Los Suenos area, we vowed to her we would come to visit...and here we are!!

This was only about a three hour passage for us across the Gulfo de Nicoya and we screamed. Yes people, we actually sailed! Sometimes hitting 8 knots! Just us and the breeze, it felt like a beautiful thing. We had a lot of fun. And after anchoring in Bahia Herradura and paying a $200.00 fee to Marina Los Suenos for the privilege of using their dinghy dock for a week, who do we run into but our Zephyr!

Now let me tell you, it is stunningly beautiful in this bay, surrounded by steep, very green mountains. Stepping on land at the marina is like stepping into "little America", and it kind of takes you back for a moment. But the village they've created is lovely and everyone was very nice. We just weren't used to so many gringos and such a large upper scale area. This is truly a sport fisherman's heaven.

There were two things that Ben was so excited to do with Zephyr. One being the first kid to try out her first Opti sailboat for the youth sailing program she is starting up, and then surfing of course, at the well known Jaco beach. He had such a great time, and even mom and dad managed to get in a little surfing as well! Meeting Thomas, Zephyr's fiancée, sharing great meals and catching up really meant a lot to us.

Before we left Islas Tortugas we ran our water maker to refill our water tanks. After two hours it just stopped working (sh_t!). Now at anchor in Bahia Herradura, Larry is troubleshooting the problem with help from Rich Boren from Cruise RO Water & Power. Rich has been great and we love our 45gph water maker we bought from them and installed in Ixtapa last year. After some elbow grease the water maker is up and running and off we go to Quepos, and Manuel Antonio National Park for some flora and fauna...with full water tanks!

See Los Suenos photo gallery

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11/20/2011 | Jan Turner
Well the 3 of you are certainly finding paradise & improving it as well. I really enjoy reading about your adventures & think of you often . Where will you be for Christmas? hugs to all Jan
11/22/2011 | Lucy Lowe
Bueno, bueno! It's all so good with you 3; thanks for doing such a wonderful job in sharing your dreams coming true. As for Jim and I, we start driving south to Mazatlan 1st part of Dec., and then do the 'milk run'.! hugs,
11/29/2011 | Lynn
Lisa, AJ, Matt and I love reading your blogs. You desribe things beautifully and it almost makes us feel as if we were on this adventure with you. We are back in California and living in Scotts Valley have been here almost two years. Have fun.
12/01/2011 | Zephyr
It was so much fun hanging out with you all! Surfing and sailing with Ben was a blast! Very stoked to hear you had a nice sail on the Lisa Kay in Costa Rica!

Also mil gracias for the sailing school donation and the home baked chocolate chip cookies!!! Very much appreciated!

Hope to see you again soon! Keep it cool Ben!

Pura Vida!

12/17/2011 | Bruce, Deb, Chanelle and Sydnee Parelskin
We met you on Lake Don Pedro and heard about your trip. We could only imagine what it would be like. Thanks for sharing. What an amazing experience. Have fun, be safe! Bruce
Isla Tortugas
Lisa Anderson
11/07/2011, Isla Tortugas, Costa Rica

S/V Lisa Kay at anchor, Islas Tortugas
November 7, 2011

Islas Tortugas
You guessed it, Islands of the Turtles (not!). As usual this once upon a time turtle haven no longer has any turtles, but despite that I think this is the loveliest anchorage we have ever been to. Solitude, beauty, powdery white sand beaches, palm trees, and turquoise water...awww....Thank you to Len and Erin on S/V Maestro for encouraging us to stop here!

After a short two hour scenic motor over from our last stop, anchoring in front of the secluded island, we couldn't wait to get in the water and explore the beaches. Islas Tortugas is two islands, one uninhabited except for the chattering parrots that would return in the evening to roost, and the other that has a daytime beach club for the tourists that are boated over for a day of snorkeling and relaxation on a lounge chair. Needless to say, Ben jumps on his surf board and paddles over to the empty beach, finding the biggest hermit crabs ever! And, unfortunately, piles of (mostly plastic) garbage that has washed up on shore with the tide, over and over.

We notice another sailboat pull in, drop anchor, and a single man jump off with his dog and swim to shore. How cute. Gotta go meet him, and for those of you who know us, pet the dog! Nice man from Germany, living and working here for many years, who just loves to sail to these islands for a one night get away. We also meet another tourist couple here from Kentucky, who really just came to Costa Rica for a dental vacation. Yep, what would have cost them over $20K in the States, cost a little over $6K here, was finished in a few days and with all the latest and greatest in technique and hardware. They were very happy and had met many tourists doing the same thing. Something to think about for those of you who want some work done.

No sooner do we return to our boat when a panga pulls up offering fresh oysters. "No gracias", says I, and no sooner do I say this and the guilt creeps in. I just should have bought some, even if we don't eat them just to help these people some. Oh time. I really do wish we were more adventurous when it comes to seafood. But like I've said before, it really grosses us out. No matter how fresh it is, it still seems to smell fishy, and we just love seeing things alive, not dead.

We proceed to have a yummy dinner, with a clean conscience, of something vegetarian and it just so happens the movie Dead Calm is on TV which Ben has never seen before. What fun to be all snuggled in this cozy little anchorage watching this scary movie while swaying on the hook on our creaky boat!

About 8 AM the next morning we hear a tap on the hull and here is one of the men from yesterday who was offering oysters, now all alone in a sort of dugout canoe, offering some sort of beautiful white meat fish fillets. "Okay", says I, "Cuanto questa?". We settle on $6.00. (For the record, we did eat this fish the next day and it was yummy...minus the 8 MILLION BONES!!...Sigh...) Our new friend with the name of Roja, or something like that, asks us if we would like lobster for dinner. "Si", we say excitedly! (Hey, I never said I was a perfect vegetarian!) "Comida," he asks? He wants some food. Now let me explain, because this guy is quite a sight. First of all like I said, he is in this canoe that looks like it shouldn't even float. His oar is a stick with an old street sign attached. He has on some tattered shorts and a very small long sleeved wool sweater (seriously in this heat?!). It looks like a child's size on this man, and the holes are sewed together with fishing line! Well, what can lame me pull together? A banana, an apple, two nut granola bars, a large box of juice, and a cold glass of water. Our boat suddenly reminded me of my mother's pantry, which means it is virtually empty. We don't have a lot of "snacky foods", just things that we prepare fresh. He simply says, "Gracias," and is on his way.

We spend our day attempting to snorkel at the nearby pinnacle, but the water is very murky and we give up after a short while. Instead, we bring a large hefty bag to the deserted island to pick up garbage. Again, another lame effort on my part because we fill the bag within ten minutes and only make a dent in what was there. We know our next stop we'll be near a marina where we will be able to bring all of this and it will be recycled, but I have to admit that the fear crawls into my mind of bringing bugs on our boat. Ben enjoys an afternoon of "skurfing", that is surfing behind our dinghy, water ski style, and then we turn in for the day. Suddenly who's there but Roja! And with enough lobster to feed an army and he wants $50.00.! "No,no,no," says I. "How's about I pick out what we want and pay you $25?" ( now stop yelling at me you fellow boaters, I know we probably way over paid) but, we had a delicious dinner and were very grateful for it.

Later on in the evening, as Larry and I were swinging in our hammocks, watching the sunset, we are astonished to see Roja, paddling across the bay, the BIG bay, for a long, long The next morning we ask him, as he visited us again, "How long does it take you to get home?" Two hours says he! Whoa! I pack him more food, this time rice, beans, and canned corn, and a chocolate bar, and tell him we are leaving. "Buen viaje" we say, and really mean it.

After a few hours of fantastic snorkeling, and going back to pick up more garbage we wave goodbye to these beautiful islands, feeling so blessed that we came.

For related pictures see gallery titled: Isla Tortugas

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12/04/2011 | Erin Sandberg-Paul
Really glad you enjoyed your stay at the Tortugas! Sounds like you had an adventure!
The Adventure: Season Three
Lisa Anderson
11/03/2011, Bahia Ballena, Costa Rica

Goodbye Marina Papagayo!!!
November 3, 2011

The Adventure: Season Three
The time has come to bid adieu, and Ben says, "This one is gonna hurt." Marina Papagayo has only been our home for the last five months, minus the two we spent in the States, yet it feels like so much longer because of the friendships we have made. Thank you, thank you to: the management- Dan, Brian, Shirley, Jesse, and Raquel, the Ship Store - Herman, the fuel dock crew- Ermine and Flo, the Dive Bar staff- Johnson, Adrian, Luis, Tony, Francisco, the best dock workers EVER- Eric, Luis, Jesus, Carlos, and Douglas, my two best "tican" girlfriends- Kattia and Nasira, AND all the security guards - who faithfully have watched over us. We have shared many great meals and laughs together and we will never forget you!

After almost two months of pretty intense labor on our teak decks we have stopped all of the leaks in the boat, and though we are not 100% done the time has come to start working our way to Panama before our time runs out on our passports. We decided to stay and celebrate Halloween at the marina which turned out to be a big hit with the kids, who not only got to carve pumpkins but play a sort of Amazing Race/scavenger hunt game, followed up by some trick or treating. Then we, the remaining boating group getting ready to move on, were thrown a party, authentic Costa Rican food with all the fixin's, by the marina that was so generous we were just blown away! Four days later we untied our lines for good, after many hugs and kisses goodbye. This truly is the hardest part of the boating life.

Bahia Ballena, Bay of the Whales, is where" the adventure-Season 3" begins. After getting caught in a fishing long line for our very first time just after we rounded Cabo Blanco (thankfully it got caught on our keel and we were able to back off of it before it got into the prop) we pull in and anchor around 9:20 AM, 17 hours after saying goodbye to all of our friends. All of a sudden we feel exhausted and all alone. It is a beautiful bay, empty besides some fishing pangas tied up to a high concrete dock. There is a long curving beach, surrounded by lush green mountains and palm trees. There is a scattering of homes, some even built on stilts over the water. It looks rather deserted. And this is where the fear starts to creep in for me. We constantly are fighting, in our minds, other people's fears (and sometimes legitimate experiences) of theft usually. Now in our logical mind we realize that this can happen anywhere at any time, and that no matter where we are we need to be prudent in not letting items that are easily picked up to sit out and all other things should be locked up therefore, in theory, being very inconvenient to take. We are still hearing of, and meeting boats that bypass Costa Rica for this very reason...fear. But we don't want to be this way! So after a short nap, we pull ourselves up by the boot straps and forge ahead with our plans - the reason we stopped in this pretty little anchorage. We were told not to miss the funky sort of hippy surfer town of Montezuma, and hike the waterfalls. The only place to leave our dinghy here is to tie it up to that concrete dock that has about 15 panga's already attached to it as well. It is slippery and slimy, covered in sharp barnacles and bright red fish blood and just the smell alone, of the fish market up above is enough to gag even the strongest stomach. We know that even if we tie our dinghy to it, we also need to set a stern anchor, thus stopping our dinghy from getting sucked underneath with the tide and then popping on the barnacles. No sooner are we there, and up comes this nice, twenty something year old man, named Norberto, that speaks pretty good English! "Can we leave our dinghy here for a few hours," we ask? "No problem", he says, "I'll even keep an eye on it with the outgoing tide". "Can we catch a taxi here to Montezuma?" "No problem," says he, "I'll walk you to town to pick one up." Hmmm...this is going far too well...can we trust him...? So, off we go with our new friend, chatting the whole way, walking on a long, lonely dirt road, cutting off on a path that runs along the shore...fear creeps in...and next thing we know we're in the VERY small town of Tambor. And sure enough Norberto calls his friend, who happens to be the local taxi and off we go, Norberto promising to meet us back on the dock at 5 PM.

Now we were told that Montezuma was like Carmel, California. That, it is not. Funky, yes it is. We met several young tourists there, from Australia, England, Germany, Canada, (how do these people hear of these places?!) and after a quick lunch off on a dirt road we went looking for the waterfalls. Near the base of the trail to the waterfalls here comes a man bringing back some other sucker/tourists and asks if we want him to be our guide. "Sure", we say, "Why not?" Sam, this crazy looking dude, turned out to be awesome! Only working for tips (we paid him $6.00 at the end and bought him a coke), he safely guided us up the very muddy, slippery trail where at one point, after walking through the strong rushing water, we had to climb on the hillside hanging onto only a thin rope. The waterfall was awesome, and Sam took Ben in to swim under the falls, then climb the rocks behind it and dive in. He had a great time. But time went by fast and I was anxious to find a cab that would take us back to our boat before dark. Well, guess who took us back to town to find us a cab? You guessed it, Sam. He said he was done working for the day after we paid him our money, he now had enough to feed his family. (Awww...) Well, Sam found us a friend/taxi driver of his that drove can I describe it...worst piece of dump of a van we have ever seen! Seriously, most of the windows had been broken out (natural air conditioning the driver called it!), the sliding door side had been totally bashed in - barely being able to slide open, and the sputtering motor sounded like it was gonna die at any moment. He wanted $30.00 to take us back, $4 more than we had paid to come, which we quickly negotiated down to the original $26. "Adios Sam, gracias and buen viaje!" and off we go, Larry and I looking at each other, silently thinking "Oh my God!" The van barely makes it up the steep mountain to get out of town, and next thing we know he turns down this narrow, very muddy road. I clear my throat and say over the very loud engine, "This is not the same road we came in on!" (What I was really thinking was, "Okay, now we're really dead!" and "Crap, maybe we should have agreed to pay $30!") "Pura vida, pura vida," says the driver. Then, after sliding down a steep hill, we actually crossed a river in this piece of junk and climbed back up the other side! (I had to close my eyes for this one) And sure enough, we're back on the main road, knocking off a huge chunk of the trip and make it back to our dinghy right at five! And, bless his heart, there is Norberto, who has taken very good care of our dinghy. We happily pay him $10.00 and a big muchas gracias!

We really are exhausted now, but feel exhilarated. It's good to be back in the game again! Hopefully, after a good night's sleep, it's off to Islas Tortugas in the morning, and another adventure!

For pictures with this story go to the photo gallery then to album "Marina Papagayo & Bahia Ballena"

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11/14/2011 | Liz & Scott, Kona Kai San Diego
Hi Lisa, Larry and Ben!

We love hearing from you, sounds like such a great adventure! All is well in San Diego, David and Julie Tate from the Blue Fin are back in San Diego and will be heading south your way soon. The America's Cup world series is in San Diego right now and we have been volunteering as a stake boat on the course, its been fun and exciting. Those catamarans really move...check them out on Best to you guys...Ben, your writing is a real gift, I wouldn't be suprised if you submitted something to a boating magazine and had it published! Enjoy each day! Best, Liz & Scott
11/14/2011 | Linda & Tom
Sounds like you all are having the trip of a life time! Really enjoy the Blog, thanks for keeping us updated. Travel safe and take care. Love to you all.
11/14/2011 | Carl and Cristina from Bamboleiro
Wow, sounds like you guys are out having some awesome adventures! We wish we had been with you for the Montesuma trip. Its good to see you're having fun. Keep an eye out astern, we're in Bahia Portrero now, waiting for a window to head south. Tell Ben I learned how to catch lobsters! We'll have to go fishing.
11/15/2011 | SV Perm Temp
Sounds like you guys had alot more fun in Ballena Bay than we did. Don refused to park the dinghy at the fish pier. We did buy fish and lobster from Melvin (one of the local fisherman). We arrived in Huatulco at 0600 this morning. What a gorgeous place. Only one problemo, the beach has a NO DOGS sign. You guys continue to have fun. Gayle, Don, Lopez and Matia
Bay Area Visit
Lisa Anderson
09/28/2011, Papagayo Peninsula, Costa Rica

Where are we?
September 28, 2011

The Haves and the Have Nots
It's hard being us. And part of the reason why is because we have so much. I feel ashamed of this often because I wonder...why us? We stop in countries, and we can't help but become close with people we meet. But on a daily basis, we are reminded of how much we have, and how so many people will never be able to have what we have. And I guess what's weird about it is that the people that we meet, most of the time, are people that see the way we live. We talk with them daily, or they come on our boat for a cold drink. They are our peers...and they become our friends. We develop deep bonds, and they will always remain in our hearts.

Let's take music for example...who doesn't like music? But, I know it might be hard for some of you to believe, but there are people in this world that will never have an ipod. Or a nice little plug-in Bose system to play their ipod on. If they're lucky, they might have one or two songs of their favorite musician to listen to on their phone. And the only reason they have a cell phone is because that is their only form of communication, since most don't have a computer, and certainly not a house phone. We are frequently asked, "How much did you pay for that?" It floors us and depresses us that electronics, once you leave the United States, cost double. That is if they're even available. A car? (Insert sarcastic laugh here) You can pretty much forget it for the average person. It just gets to me sometimes.

After two months visiting family and friends in the San Francisco Bay Area, we came back to the Lisa Kay feeling exhausted and somewhat overwhelmed. Our visit was fantastic, don't get me wrong! But, it also was an affirmation to us that we are exactly where we want to be and doing exactly what we want to with our lives. I know that is hard for our families to accept sometimes, but just because we're doing life differently doesn't make it wrong. Our good Aussie friends, Cheryl and Peter on S/V Stolen Kiss, have the perfect saying, "Those that wander are not necessarily lost." We love that, and it certainly sums it up.

What a whirlwind our visit was back at our old home. We were blessed with homes to stay in, cars to drive, and love and friendship by all! Thank you everyone! We cherished every moment. It warmed my heart to see Ben, just pick up exactly where he left off with his friends two years earlier. He absolutely had the BEST summer ever!

We literally ate our way through the bay area, knowing we wouldn't be able to have this or that for at least another year, so we went for it! We sort of had to learn to drive again. I mean, I simply could not go over 50 MPH on the freeway! My foot just wouldn't press the gas pedal any harder! I really had to concentrate to try and keep up with the flow of traffic, but everything was just whizzing past so fast! Noise pollution, now I get it. Cars, planes, sirens, and the shear noise of people everywhere. I couldn't stand on a sidewalk and not reach out and grab at Ben as if he were a young toddler. I was not used to the sound of cars flying by. At first we were in sensory overload. But after a few weeks, we weirdly adapted back. Grocery shopping you ask? Can I just say, American grocery stores are obscene. The look, the lighting, the selection, the ready made food, the PERFECT fruit and veggies, the 18 different choices of the same item...I almost cried the first time we shopped. And, California wines...there is nothing like 'em!

Well, we returned with 10 suitcases weighing EXACTLY 50 lbs each, and $390 dollars poorer in excess baggage fees. Totally worth it though because we know if we tried to ship this stuff in it would have been well over a grand. Thankfully, customs hardly gave us a second glance and we waltzed right back in to Costa Rica! And ahhhh...the quiet, the peace, the beauty of this country. We totally felt like we had returned home.

Our agenda now, as we wait out the wet season, is to stop the leaks we have in our decks. This means painstakingly removing the caulk between the teak planks, sanding, cleaning with acetone, taping off, and re-caulking. Section by section...slowly...back breaking...sweating after day. After that we'll need to replace every (almost) screw in the deck, then we'll be good to go! (As of this writing we're over half way done!) But we do have a lot of fun too including meals with friends, surfing with Ben, snorkeling, and paddle boarding with whales???!!! YES WE DID!!! I am still pinching myself, because I never would have believed I would spontaneously be on the water, close with a mother and baby humpback whale for like thirty minutes, even getting in the water to put my head under to hear them communicating! It was unbelievable...and then it was over in a flash when dolphins came by...and that's when you sort of look back at land and see how far out you are...and blink and say, "Did that really just happen?"

I immediately was taken back to when I was a sixteen year old girl, working at Marine World, and buying a record (yes I'm THAT old!) called Songs of the Humpback Whale. (I also vaguely remember my old ice skating buddies making fun of me, imitating the noise...yes you did Brian!) And guess what? They sound exactly like I thought they would! Once again, here was a moment when I wished all of you could have been with me, and once again here was an experience that reminded me of why we are doing what we are doing!

When someone asks you how are you doing in Costa Rica you are supposed to answer, "Pura vida." As we reflect back on the 9/11 anniversary, remembering all those people that lost their lives that day, I am pretty confident that each and every one of them would tell you if they could, to follow your dreams. As we enter in to our third season of living on the Lisa Kay, I can honestly tell you that we are living a dream...and are definitely pura vida!

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09/29/2011 | Amy Reynolds
I just loved hearing your perspective on life in the Bay Area and life in Costa Rica. You truly are fortunate to be where you are. I definitely can see that life as a Wanderer is truly Pura vida! I don't know anyone else who has had the chance to swim next to whales. ENJOY IT ALL!!!!!
09/29/2011 | bill
Lisa Kay has he mos compassionae and wonderful crew. Thank you for sharing.!
You are truely blessed!
10/01/2011 | John P Power
Great blog, sharing your adventures. Hope you weren't swimming with that exotic fish on your last adventure! Miss you guys, glad you are well and safe. All the best.John
10/01/2011 | Mike & Lisa - Blue Aweigh
Loved your introspection on the US and abroad and find myself agreeing whole heartedly. Glad to see that you have now chosen cruising. It is a beautiful way to live your life. May your family continue to be blessed.
Fondly, The other Lisa Kay !
10/06/2011 | Michelle
Miss you guys very much!!! Glad you are "home" and fixing up the Lisa Kay for your upcoming travels. I absolutely love all of your stories. This blog is a great idea. It's amazing that I get to experience your trips with you. The words, the pictures...... You need to make a book out of this! Please give my love to you all. Hugs & kisses.
Love, Michelle, Don & the girls :)
10/11/2011 | Sam & Nancy - Windfall
Hi Lisa Kay! Got your blog from Hobo and enjoy reading it very much. Hope to see you here in's been the best by far! Our blog is if you want to check out it out. Hope all is well....far seas and good winds!

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